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Need help. No spark. Good plugs good points gaped new plugs think I have a ground somewhere. I have a pic of the stator. Does anybody know what the resistances should be between the 3 wires? Capacitor checks good. Also has a voltage regulator in the left fender box. Does that mean it has a battery? If so where is the battery. Thanks for any help![img][/img]
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Molto Verboso
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Here is a good place to start: https://scooterhelp.com/electrics/60.elec.html

Also, where is the red wire for the kill switch? That could be your no-spark issue.
⚠️ Last edited by garncarz on UTC; edited 1 time
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Nobody has ever regretted going with electronic ignition. I recommend using this failure to upgrade. I know it's not the answer you expect, but I think you should hear it regardless. Good luck
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Thanks for the help!!!!
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Going to do the conversion. What kit do you recommend?
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Vape.
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That ain't no 1965 stator... Looks very P125X. Things are getting interesting.
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vma1racer wrote:
That ain't no 1965 stator... Looks very P125X. Things are getting interesting.
they painted the flywheel as seen by the overspray on the coils.
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vma1racer wrote:
That ain't no 1965 stator... Looks very P125X. Things are getting interesting.
Agreed. Too many coils for a start!

Can you share the engine number prefix?
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*730827* is the engine number by the exhaust
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here are all my numbers: VLL1T * 03347*43280*
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The " VLL1T may be incorrect go re check
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Can you post pics of the whole bike including where the serial numbers are located?
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yes going to recheck serial numbers now
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VLB1T 033457 IGM 432001 on frame muffler side is correct
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Ran the "correct" numbers on the site says its a 1966 Vespa 150 sprint.
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Got some pics[/img]
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Do you know its history at all? and, how long have you had it?
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Ok, things are officially "interesting".

😬

"She's a beaut, Clark."
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vma1racer wrote:
"She's a beaut, Clark."
HEAVILY modified!
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vma1racer wrote:
Ok, things are officially "interesting".

😬

"She's a beaut, Clark."
Exactly where I was heading with my leading question to post some pics. Interesting indeed.
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Send a borescope up the frame tunnel before riding?
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garncarz wrote:
Send a borescope up the frame tunnel before riding?
Make sure there's a cotter pin holding the rear wheel on too!
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Im the retired back yard mechanic that my buddy drops off stuff. I have zero idea about any history on this or does he. I will check out those issues you guys spoke of. Now how about the ignition conversion? One last thing the " heavily modified " text. Can you explain this? Thanks a ton to all of you!!!
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Not saying it is or isn't but this is a good article to read:
What makes a Bodge?
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Short answer: The scooter appears to be one of the Indian or Indonesian 'restorations' put together using inexpensive reproduction parts, dressed up with chrome accessories and painted a shiny color to attract unknowing buyers.

For example, 1966 Sprints never came with a glove box behind the legshield. The ignitions are notoriously unreliable. If you look inside the tunnel, you'll probably find some unusual welds.

Scoots like these usually end up being one headache after another. Sorry.
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every VN large frame i have ever seen has the main engine bolt going in the opposite way of factory, this on is no different.

The over spray on the coils gave me those VN vibes.
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chazdo2 wrote:
Im the retired back yard mechanic that my buddy drops off stuff. I have zero idea about any history on this or does he.
So, who's paying for your tuition? The learning curve is long and steep, but with the right attitude and aptitude you'll definitely learn some stuff.

It definitely takes a special "backyard mechanic" to take on this kind of challenge and not have it be a friendship ruining project.

Time to do some learnin'.

All the good S.E.A. bikes stay in S.E.A...
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GickSpeed wrote:
every VN large frame i have ever seen has the main engine bolt going in the opposite way of factory, this on is no different.
I get that it is not factory but I can't see how that would make any difference at all unless you are dealing with concourse judges.
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Moto64 wrote:
I get that it is not factory but I can't see how that would make any difference at all unless you are dealing with concourse judges.
Does not really mater either way- just an indicator of a Vietnamese bike. It has to be in their blood to do it that way every single time.

What will matter is the rest of the bike, pocket book, and mental health. That being said, this bike is great for the economy.💵
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GickSpeed wrote:
Does not really mater either way- just an indicator of a Vietnamese bike. It has to be in their blood to do it that way every single time.
Gotcha.
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Can I get some feed back on what ignition to buy?
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A bit of friendly advice? Before you start spending a lot of money on this scoot, you might want to determine the structural integrity of the frame itself. And as I mentioned before, run a borescope through the tunnel from one end to another (look for rust, holes, welds that shouldn't be there and/or are of poor quality) and verify that it is safe to ride. Last thing you want to do is get hurt.

If it were mine? Knowing its somewhat dubious history, I would question (read, open and inspect) every single nut, bolt, wire, cable, gear, bearing, etc., etc.

My $0.02 worth. YMMV.

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chazdo2 wrote:
Can I get some feed back on what ignition to buy?
you need to figure out what type of engine you have if you are interested in replacing the entire ignition. Then develop a good relationship with a US market parts retailer shop. Buying parts and money coming out of your wallet will never stop-it never does with Vietnamese bikes.
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Post a pic of the engine numbers. Let's figure out what you have.
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730827 is the number by the muffler
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There should be a Piaggio logo and "VLB1M" stamped above the number (if it's a Sprint engine)
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VNX1?
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Hard to read, maybe you could use a soft brush or some steel wool to reveal the engine prefix (above the numbers)
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The stator *looks* like a non-battery p125x stator (not common to the USA). So looking at a non-battery P series wiring diagram would be a start. Getting what you have to work by making that stator still be part of the bike rather than re-reengineering the system will at least get you going. If you can't understand what's there how will you get a completely different system working?

The learning curve is getting steeper, but if you have the reference materials to learn the basics of how things should be you'll figure out how things want to be.

There is no "just do this" solution without some extra effort on your part.


I'd love to see the rest of the wiring for a start.

This must be a pretty good friend.

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