Modern Vespa

Hello everyone,

On my Yourban 300ie LT from 2016 I have intermittent starting issues. I am suspecting the throttle body to be the culprit and therefore I planned to switch it with another (used) one.

So I went and bought a throttle body + lock and master key. So he assured me they came of the same Yourban and should already be paired.

So now I have plugged in the new throttle body and put the little black chip key in my own original master key so that i could avoid refitting the new lock as well.

But now I am getting situation 'E' as per the link below and the bike is not turning over at all.

Immobilizer LED codes

Am I missing something here?

Thanks in advance!

Is there any chance someone can point me in the right direction? It feels like I am missing a step in the replacement of the ECU/Throttle Body + chipkey...

Feels like the wrong chip in your key.

Suggest 'virginising' the ecu using guzzidiag.

Hi there, thanks for the advice!

Is the procedure described somewhere for 'virginising' the ECU with that software? I would like to try that.

But for all you know it should be possible to swap ecu and chipkey without swapping other parts and/or coding?

I have swapped an ecu+key with a second hand with no problems. use those tools to read the eeprom (not the main flash bin) and then blank the keys in it then write it back to the ecu. you'll then be able to teach it any new keys just like if you bought a brand new ecu. my VespaDiag app can blank those keys in the eeprom file (or you can ask me nicely and send me the file).

Do not swap an eeprom between two ecus as that will screw up the tps calibration.

could be the yourban you have or bought it from did get updates and the other one did not a version different could also be the problem

Did change a lock ecu for a newer one same problem updated the throttlebody ecu problem gone

Also did you connect the immo antenne on the lock assembly or did you use the new or old one

Thanks a lot for confirming! I will see if I can get my hands on a cable and device to install the software on and read out the config. I will definitely come back to you with a sincere (nicely asked) request to help me out!

Good one actually, because I believe the MY of that replacement part was not exactly the same as mine.

Is that also something to fix with guzzidiag?

As for the immo antenna, I only have the original one. I got a lockset with the replacement ECU, but it doesn't come with an antenna. Should I try with the original antenna in combination with the replacement one?

antenna is passive. it doesn't have to be swapped.

older vs newer software on the ecu won't stop it running. I have previously swapped the ecu in my bike to one with older software and no probs.

Note: my comments are for the miu family of ecus that I think you have where the immo is part of the ecu. Not for a different ecu where there is a separate module installed as part of the immo (like current keyless models)

Hi there,

After waiting for some cables to arrive, and after that some more cables because the first one did not work...i finally got everything to work.

indeed my ECU is: MIUG3

I have exported the .bin and .eep files from my original ECU and also the 2 replacement ECU's i had bought.

Is there a way you can guide me through the proces please? I can send you the files in a .zip via DM? or what is the best way forward. I would really appriciate your help on this!

Also, can I use IAWMIUG3Writer_V0.06 to write the .eep file that you modify? or how can i get the config in the replacement ECU. If I understood correctly, you can program the replacement ECU with the original key transponder chip so that i dont have to change keys and locks, correct?

thanks in advance!

It's been a while but I'm back with an update! Thanks to SteelBytes I have 'virginized' my replacement ECU and now it starts right off! Also the issue with not starting after the first 'cold' start seems to be resolved so great news!

But I'm not completely problem free…it seems that the motor is now starting 10/10 times I try, but it will only run for a couple of seconds and then stall. If I pull the throttle then immediately it stalls. If I leave it running stationary then it depends, but most of the times it is between 2 and 6 seconds, never had it running much longer.

Anyone an idea what can be wrong?

PS. It's a used ECU, but the key config was removed and that way I could pair it with my original key.

You need the master and service key coded to the virgin ECU. Master in, two seconds ON then OFF, service key in, two seconds ON then OFF, master key in again, two seconds ON then OFF…

Keep time intervals exact and they should be coded…

Thanks for replying!

Is it that simple? Would be great! Because indeed I have only paired the master key until now. Will try that and revert back!

yes, when pairing you need to use both keys. Otherwise the pairing doesn't work.

when it is not paired (ie, still virgin) then there is an upper rpm limit of only 2000. When idling it typically hit this *while warming up* and this can cause a stall.

I can share a great update with you guys, the keys are now both programmed and working. Just took the Yourban for a test ride and it is perfect! Stationary better than the old original ecu and it doesn't stall anymore!

After my last message here I went and read some live data from the motor and it said 0 keys programmed. So even though it starts and idles for a couple of seconds, it doesn't mean that the keys are paired.

What worked for me was not counting the seconds, but rather putting in the key and waiting for the immobilizer light to go OFF and as soon as it is OFF then proceed to the next step in the pairing process as described in the manual. This way I got both keys programmed in the first try!

I want to thank everyone who helped me in this thread and I hope others can learn and benefit from it as well!