Modern Vespa

UPDATE started writing proper docs at https://www.steelbytes.com/vespadiag/help/

UPDATE2: maybe also of interest: GUIDE: How to change the fuel mapping in many Vespas


Part 1/4

I've made my own tool called VespaDiag for read and writing etc the MIUG4 ECU in models such as the GTS 300 HPE and MP3 310 and MotoGuzzi V7 850 E5 etc. Main page https://steelbytes.com/vespadiag/ (not to be confused with my unrelated VespaSnoop app)

Important:
for older MIU ECU such as in GTS 300 pre-HPE which have the black 3pin plug see DIY Diagnostic tool for injection Vespa's with MIU ECU
for non MIU ECUs that have the 6pin red diag plug see GUIDE: How to read Engine Fault Codes (OBD/OBD2)

So what is it?

It's and android app that can read DTC codes and show live data, but can also do stuff like read/write the main flash bin (which contains maps etc) and also read/write the eeprom (has the keys etc). Can also do active tests such as turn on/off the cooling fan or headlights etc. And reset 'adaptive params'

It uses an Android phone/tablet and a cheap usb <-> canbus adapter (easily found on amazon/aliexpress etc). I have even tested it successfully with my 10 year old Sony Android TV with Android 8.0!!! Also works on ChromeOS

"But I an an iPhone user". I will not be making an iOS version. If you don't have an old Android in the back of a drawer then borrow a friend's phone or even buy a budget phone.

note: basic features like code reading is free, fancy features like writing the bin is a paid featured.

example ecu part numbers that are known compatible:
CM291701
CM291704
CM291706
CM291708
CM299301
CM299303
CM299305
CM299312
CM299313
CM299317
CM299321
CM312001
CM316201
CM316209
CM316217
CM316219
CM316221
CM316222
CM316226
CM316227
CM330601
CM341002
CM341007
CM341010
plus more

Part 2/4

Quick comments on the cable / hardware used:

Main page for the required cable see https://steelbytes.com/vespadiag/help/#cable

It uses an Android phone/tablet and a cheap usb <-> canbus adapter (easily found on amazon/aliexpress etc).

The phone:
The Android device has to support what is called USB host mode also called On-The-Go. Pretty much all modern Androids that have a USB-C connector will work but of course I can't guarantee that the cheapest burner will but I'd be surprised if it doesn't.

The adapter is called CANable. https://canable.io/ "An Open-Source USB to CAN Adapter". Very cheap (if you buy from the right site). It should work without updating it's firmware as mayorofnow mentions below but his info is still useful if you are having problems.

The plug is the standard 6pin red plug. Can be found cheaply prewired on the amazon/aliexpress, see the earlier link for the part number of the plug to search for.

Simply attach the prewired plug to the screw terminals on the canable and then plug into the phone and enjoy.

For those in the US, here are the specific Amazon items I'm using:

• UCAN microcontroller
• ISO 19689 socket
  

Microcontroller setup

1. Open the CANable V1 updater
2. Confirm that the most recent slcan firmware is the active one in the menu. (Right now, that's 9fddea4.)
3. Click Connect and update
4. Bridge the 3v3 and B0 contacts on the board and plug it into your computer.
5. Select the STM32F072 in the menu that appears.
6. Wait for the flash to complete, remove the wire, and unplug your microcontroller.
   

The microcontroller's schematics are available on GitHub. The H, L, and GND terminals are labeled on the underside of the board.

Socket wiring

With the socket facing you, and the latch tooth on top, here is the pinout from left to right, top to bottom:

Part 2b/4 Should not be needed but useful anyway.


Important canable v1 uses different firmware to canable v2. Do not mix and match.

Useful if you want to change from the canable(slcan) firmware to the candlelight(gs_usb) firmware. This is because they use different protocols over the usb part of the connection (and of course different code in my app for processing the raw packets). In my testing the candlelight firmware is approx 20% faster but this doesn't really matter.


Firmware versions

CANable v1 hardware (eg U-CAN)
https://canable.io/updater/canable1.html
* slcan legacy (1205aa6 4/10/2019) BUGGY
* slcan (9fddea4 6/29/2023) GOOD
* candlelight (a8a0757) BUGGY
* candlelight (68df7d5 1/3/21) GOOD, RECOMMENDED

CANable v2 hardware (eg makerbase 2.0)
https://canable.io/updater/canable2.html
* slcan with FD support (b158aa7 7/6/22) GOOD
* candlelight (ba6b1dd 7/16/21) GOOD, RECOMMENDED


Firmware updating

On Windows 11 I had to connect using a USB2 hub instead of the USB3 port on my laptop. STMicro (the maker of the main chip used in canables) said this on their forum but they refrained from pointing the blame either at ms or at their stuff.

Part 3/4

What can you do with the main BIN file after reading it?

A bin is a file with the code (algorithms) and the maps and configuration settings. So yes you can edit the fuel and ignition maps etc but unless you have a lot of skill and ideally a dyno then probably not much fun. You can also upgrade / downgrade by using a bin from exactly the same part number.

I am not a tuning expert so I can't supply tweaked maps etc. You can buy a tuned bin from places like https://lebschik.at/ or https://www.buchsenfuchs.com/

Backup your BIN before editing

So how?

BIN files can be edited in software such as TunerPro (free) or WinOLS (not free?).

An XDF file is also needed. This is a description that tunerpro/winols uses to find and display the various maps with in the bin (they don't magically know where everything is inside the bin).

XDF are specific to each different version of the ecu firmware inside the bin. Things move around and change format with updates.

Although you can make your own XDF, I've made a lot of XDF that are freely available at https://steelbytes.com/vespadocs/BINs%20and%20XDFs/ Look for one that has the same first 4 digits of the firmware version eg 56BHEEBA and 56BGEEAX use the same XDF. Sometimes if the first two are the same but the next two are not it will still work, simply load it and see if it looks correct. The part number such as CM291706 doesn't matter.

Part 4/4

The EEPROM file:

Has the key codes in it and those can be modified etc. Also has the famous adaptive params (which contrary to popular internet 'wisdom' are not cleared by disconnecting the battery).

Backup your EEPROM before editing

DO NOT COPY THE EEPROM FROM ONE ECU TO ANOTHER EVEN IF THE SAME PART NUMBER. This will screw the calibration of the tps which is set in the factory to allow for minor manufacturing tolerance variations.

That's good to know.

I didn't like having a mystery microcontroller with mystery firmware on it. Gives me a little more peace of mind knowing that I've flashed an open source known entity that's been tested with VespaDiag.

Thanks for all the work you've done putting this together!

I tried with both a Pixel 7 Pro and a Pixel 10 Fold, and I couldn't get it to connect.

As you can see in the photo, the light is on and it's connected on both ends, but VespaDiag doesn't seem to recognize there's a CANable attached.

Help please! What should I try next?

What does VespaDiag show when you click connect? You don't need to connect to the bike to test the phone<->canable connection just press connect.

PS, I have tested with a 7Pro successfully

"No adapter"

Did you put on canable v1 or v2 firmware? your hardware is a v1 I think. There are two different links on the canable site for flashing

Alright, I think I have a better understanding now.

If I'm now understanding correctly, CANable is a brand of open source microcontroller (like Arduino or Raspberry Pi). And like Arduino, there are a bunch of knockoffs on places like Amazon that are easier to get than the original. One of those is UCAN.

CANable v1 and v2 use different chipsets. The UCAN uses the same chipset as CANable v1.

slcan and candleLight are software that runs on CANable (like Linux on Raspberry Pi). candleLight makes the board speak the SocketCAN protocol, which is available on desktop Linux, but not on Android. slcan is the software that's compatible with VespaDiag.

So I've flash the slcan firmware from the CANable V1 updater, and now it is connecting to my Pixel. I'll have to run downstairs another time to check my ECU.

Thanks for your help!

both canable/slcan and candlelight/gs_usb work with vespadiag. your problem is v1 vs v2 hardware/firmware mismatch.

I tried installing the UCAN build of candleLight and VD didn't see it.

Tried again with slcan for CANable v1 and VD saw it, so I edited my post.

stuff about firmware versions added to GUIDE: VespaDiag for MIUG4 ECUs eg GTS300HPE (Post 2757024)

First wanted to say many thanks to SteelBytes for developing VespaDiag and VespaSnoop! So grateful that you put in the time to create and share all of this! I'm still about a week out from receiving delivery of my new 2023 Piaggio MP3 530 but wanted to get my diagnostics cable sorted out ahead of time.

I purchased a Makerbase CANable V2.0 Pro (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808170494159.html) and male EURO5 (ISO 19689; MWTPB-06-1A-R) connector from AliExpress for under $30 shipped to USA (don't forget to use coupons). As already indicated, the brand-new cable comes with no firmware installed, so you'll get a "No CANable found" error in the VespaDiag app.

For some reason I wasn't able to install Candlelight firmware using https://canable.io/updater/canable2.html because it wasn't finding my device when plug into my Windows 11 computer even after putting the CANable into boot mode. Others may have better luck than I did, so try that first for simplicity sake!

To enter boot mode on the device: In my case, the easiest way was to connect the CANable into a USB hub that has a switch on each port. Activating, deactivating, then reactivating the switch causes a brief power drop that enables boot mode (indicated by only the red LED being lit). This can also be achieved by connecting, removing, and reconnecting the device to your Windows computer's USB port, or opening the CANable Pro's plastic case and shorting the two boot pins together while plugging the device into a USB port. Some CANables probably have a boot button that you hold while plugging into USB.

This YouTube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gp_YzaEWDGA) inspired me to use HUD ECU Hacker (https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD%20ECU%20Hacker/) to install the firmware. See the three attachments in this post that show the exact steps I took and settings I used to get my cable functioning. I will specifically point out that you need to install the Candlelight Multiboard firmware. The Jhoinrch and OpenlightLabs firmware will do nothing (and fortunately don't brick the device, either).

One tip about the EURO5 connector: We only use 3 of the 6 pins, so I cut the 3 unused pigtail wires off the back of the connector, then used needle-nose pliers to yank the corresponding pins out the front. MAKE SURE YOU ARE PULLING THE CORRECT ONES!! I tried to use the proper way of de-pinning the connector, but the cheap plastic and terminals fought me. Yanking pins breaks the tiny plastic tabs holding pins in place, but that won't matter for the ones that aren't being used

I hope this helps folks get up and running!

Does the 530 have a MIUG4 ecu? I would not have predicted it to. (the code scanning and basic live stats will work regardless). No, they all come with firmware installed. if people get that when plugged in then contact me using the support link in the app as this would most likely be a bug. with win11 plugging into a usb3 socket on your pc won't allow flashing. ST acknowledges this (the maker of the actual chip on the canable).

but plugging into a usb2 hub and then plugging that into your pc will allow flashing. ripping out the pins is cute solution, I cut at different lengths and wrap in tape.

I made an assumption based on the MP3 310 being seemingly related to the current generation 530, but that was apparently a bad assumption Upon doing the minimal research that I should have done before, it looks like the MP3 530 uses a Magneti Marelli 11MP ECU. But all I ever wanted was code scanning and live stats, so it sounds like it should still provide what I need. Good to know. If anyone else buys the same CANable v2 Pro as me, perhaps they'll be able to help troubleshoot why it didn't work immediately in the VD app. All of my tests were through USB2 ports (hub or no hub), so not sure what happened there. But it appears to be working now, so I'm satisfied. Yeah, won't ever be using the other pigtails, so it's nice not having any extra bulk of unused wires.

Thanks for the feedback!

Does It mean that is possible to add new Keys ? (Key fob or contactess chip)

The keyless system in the gts 2023 is not part of the ecu. It's a separate control unit at the front of the bike.

So no.

Note:
It is possible to mod the ecu bin to not care about any immobiliser / keyless. It might even be possible to switch the ecu back to looking for traditional keys which of course then requires connecting the antenna - but maybe only by flashing the bin from a previous gen on it - more exploring needed.

To add as info, it's made by Minda. I had a second key fob programmed on my GTS, PADS required all of the modules (ABS, Speedometer, keyless module, etc.) and ECU to first be updated and then it let us program the key fob (chip tag and every extra key fob required for the procedure)...

Thank you very much to both of you for the swift reply and the info provided.

SteelBytes, Kudos, sir! I purchased the needed parts from Amazon, assembled a cable, and everything lit up on the first try with my tablet. I'm having no issues with my MY24 at the moment, but it's good to know that I'll be prepared if and when something comes up. Do you you have a Buy Me Coffee or other way of sharing gratitude? I'd be pleased to offer up some non-verbal thanks.

purchase through play store is easiest for me.

either click Buy on the menu in the top right, or some features require purchase such as read/write eeprom and remove keys etc so clicking them will popup a purchase dialog.