Modern Vespa

Okay,
I've finally got back to doing work on the scooter. 77 Sprint 150 Veloce according to chassis No.
Motor, full overhaul done. Running well and installed in frame.
12v electronic ignition installed and it's time to do the electrics.ie turmoil.
I will be running blinkers and battery as were previously installed.A key switch was also installed , 100mm lower than my testicles if I was seated.
I have decided to replace the wiring loom/ harness as old one is a crazy mess with add ons etc. Not to mention my labeling whilst consuming beer + nearly a year elapsed. At least with a new one I can hopefully follow wiring diagram directions.
I am an electrics moron. Mechanics yes, electrics very limited.
Now to the advice.
Wiring harness type ?, as I am unsure.

Are you looking to get a just run it in ir are you looking for something else?

As coincidence would have it, im doing something similar and hunting down appropriate looms for the V90 with PK engine to support a sip speedo, malossi ignition and battery.


I dont see many options available for yours on the SIP site, but will look again for you. My 2 cents worth would be to look at an early P range and allow for some wires to be extended. Or maybe have a custom loom made??

Would this work for you??

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/wiring-loom-conversion-to-e-ignition-ducati_86134100

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/search/Sprint%20150%20wiring%20loom?model=eyJkaW1lbnNpb24iOiJ7XCJpZFwiOjIsXCJuYW1lXCI6XCJLTEFTU0lLIFZFU1BBXCIsXCJ1bmlxdWVudW1iZXJcIjoyLFwicG9zaXRpb25cIjoyMH0iLCJzY29vdGVyVHlwZSI6IntcIm5hbWVcIjpcIlZlc3BhICA1MC0xMjUvUFYvRVQzL1BLL1hMXCIsXCJzbHVnXCI6XCJUNFwifSIsInByb2R1Y2VyIjoie1wiZ3VpZFwiOlwiYjk2MjM1NDUtZGIyNC00YTYzLTljY2EtMTE1MTg3YWFmZmRkXCIsXCJpZFwiOjYsXCJwcm9kdWNlcm5hbWVcIjpcIlZFU1BBXCJ9IiwibW9kZWwiOiJ7XCJuYW1lXCI6XCI5MCA5MCBjY20gMlQgQUMgJzYzLSc4NCBWOUExVFwiLFwibW9kZWxfbnVtYmVyXCI6MTY2OX0ifQ%3D%3D&dimension=2

I think this one would suit.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/wiring-loom-sip-premium-conversion-to-electric-ignition-ducati-sip-performance-vape-ac-dc_86135274?usrc=Sprint+150+wiring+loom

It does say it's AC or DC, but doesn't go into detail. Anyway it has a very clear diagram with it, that's probably the most important thing to me!

Many thanks for your replies, Gravelrash unsure of your meaning .
31 Mar 2026 at 7:46 pm
Are you looking to get a just run it in ir are you looking for something else?
I think the one that Ginch has highlighted looks good for me also easy to follow install diagram. I'll have a search to see if anything similar is available elsewhere a bit cheaper if not I'll have to bite the bullet.
Why is it that the item that you require is always one of the most expensive, seems to be the universal law.
Cheers again

I cant remember what point I was trying to make - very unclear statement that - apologies, just put it down to a senior moment.


Agreed on the statement about price of that "part I now need"... gets me every time in the pocket



To sbare your pain and to To make matters worse, I have purchased a grade one repair item replacement loom for the V90, to find I have to change the supplier spade ends that are already fitted to bullets


Oooof

Keep what you have. Wiring on a Vespa is easy. No need to change the whole loom.

What he has is a bitsa of Vietnamese origins.

Possibly a bastardised bitsa.
I too have many senior moments, and totally understand Gravelrash
So I had a good chat to the chap from GPS imports in Melbourne
( very helpful and pleasant)and tried other avenues, not very promising for me at all.
Looks like I'll be ordering the conversion one from SIP. $60 postage WOW. Thanks for all the input.
Hopefully the installation will go smoothly, good instructions, plus nice new wiring. Sometimes you get what you pay for. If they had a self installing loom hmmmm.
I will attempt to show you the finished product when I receive the gold plated loom.
Cheers

It is just wiring. As long as it isn't perished it will work.

I have no idea what makes it so expensive! I looked at the other (cheaper) options and they were mostly non-battery types, or to suit points ignition or DC-only. All of which might work with a bit of mucking about. But if you are not confident with wiring and electrics then this one looks straightforward at least, and that means you're more likely to have success with it.

Anyway. You have two kidneys, right?

Done and dusted, ordered. One less kidney.

Just a quick update. Received new loom, pulled it through the frame with draw wires from when I removed old loom. Went pretty smoothly. Thought that you might like to see the difference between old and new and what I was dealing with. Glad I bit the bullet and paid a bit more. Cheers

I can barely tell them apart!

I agree, I had to label them so I didn't mix them up.

I forgot to mention that I picked up an electric adjustable bed from the nursing home when I went to visit my mum. Apparently they get thrown out quite regularly and if it's free it's for me. (Old fire brigade saying). Quite heavy and robust just don't drop it on your foot like I did when unloading it from the trailer.
I will be converting it to an adjustable workbench. 220kg safe working load. Just a thought in case anyone else wants to utilise something similar.

Heard of this being done, but never seen a final product. Post pics of the project as you go.

I had one, it had a metal top attached. I should have made some wheel chock things to make it easier to hold the scooter. Still needed a jack to lift the rear wheel so I didn't use it much. I would have liked to build in a jacking system with a removable section under the rear wheel. Sold it as it took up too much space for my place.

I love to see stuff re purposed. Rather than thrown away.

Well done

So here's a few pics of repurposed electric bed that I saved from the scrapheap.
Tek screwed timber to steel frame to make it wider as I want to use it for work on my ride on mower as well as the scooter. I made the bench 1 meter by 1.8 meters. It might be a bit wide for working on the scooter but time will tell. The wheel chock / stop I made was designed by someone called that scooter thing on YouTube which was very handy. I made it all just with scraps and the sheet of ply was a bonus from Bunnings at five dollars because it was a cover sheet and they were going to throw it out All the dimensions are on the video clip on YouTube. The chock is just screwed to the top of the table and I can remove it when I want to work on something else. I'll give it a tidy up and then paint it ,possibly send a final photo of completion. Cheers

Ps don't judge me on the white wall tyres I got them cheap.

So back to wiring questions.
As stated previously I'm not the best with electrics.
Currently ( pun intended ) installed is the SIP 12v with battery and indicators, loom for electronic conversion to e-ignition which is all good.
I believe I will have to change the horn to a 12v DC as I only have 12v AC one, same with the rear brake switch to a DC I believe, what a pain in the buttocks that thing is.
It was doing my head in working out that the pedal when depressed opens the circuit on the switch, WOW. So the DC one is a reverse ,reverse switch. Just my way of understanding it.

My question is, are there any other switches eg indicator, light switch currently ( couldn't resist ) 12v AC that should be changed or can I use them as is.
Hope the electric bed bench project bears fruit for someone. Gets a final coat of paint today, looking forward to unscrewing the scooter from the old bedside table that it is currently on as it's getting a bit tippy.
Thanks in advance

It depends.

Here's a really useful diagram with the different types of switches. I love that it has the actual numbers that you'll find on the switch as well. Compare these to what you have and what sip sell as a conversion light switch (ignoring the one with an extra button for the sip speedo).

I think from memory you can change the horn button from NC to NO (or perhaps the other way around) with some stuffing about. But may be wrong on that.

Hi Ginch,
Thanks for the info I'll check out this evening.

Greetings,
Moving forward with the rewiring I am about to do the indicator switch. The new sip loom has a blue wire coming out of the switch mount opening so all good there.
I have run a sheathed 2 wire cable up to headset and to the rear of scooter in prep for indicators.
I have researched to sort out these following questions but came up empty handed, hopefully someone can help.
I am unsure of the indicator switch labelling/numbers on the rear of the switch.
See pics , it would be greatly appreciated if someone could decipher them for me.
On another note, when I refitted the rear wheel I thought that one of the rim bolts was stripped but on closer inspection it seems it has moved inwards, possibly unscrewed ( towards engine) I am trying to figure out how to tighten as it seems to have a fine thread on the inner and a strange sort of hex for an allen key but not deep enough for one fit properly.
Ginch thanks for the previous diagram , luckily I seem to have the correct one.
Cheers

Stupid me I've just realised that they are the bolts on the hub forgive me.

I find it easier to look at the front of the switch when working it out. Other than that, use your multimeter.

That is not for an allen key, it's staked to hold it in tight. Heat, wd40, vise grips and backing it out can work.

Weird, I was just getting the multi meter from the shed when you sent your post
It seems that the switch is this
L1 = left ind
R1 = right ind
B1= blue / power
This is perfect just what I need.

R = right ind
L = left ind
B= power

It wont work if you mix them up ie L1 + R +B1 . They have to be either the first column or the second
It's like two different switch circuits main and auxiliary . Maybe it was designed for for front and rear to be independent who knows
Either way I think that I've got it, quite simple I hope.
Don't know what I was thinking with the hub stud, made me cringe. Ha ha
Cheers

I recall reading about alternate flashing on some model (can't recall which) to spread the load. So front left and rear left would not be on at the same time. Anyway doesn't really apply to you I would think as the load with led's is not very big.

Loom install Sprint Veloce 77 12 V electronic ignition with indicator and battery.
Electronically inept but trying.
I'm back with more questions, quite baffled , hope someone can assist.
I thought that I had a moment of clarity and and connected wires up ( from cdi over to regulator / rectifier etc ) as per the wiring diagrams supplied with the sip wiring loom.
The sip kit had the main loom as per diagram 1 and then a separate short wiring bundle to adapt for battery dc set up see diagram 2.
The CDI unit is a quality Ducati unit as per pic.
My questions are
In diagram 2 what is the item circled in green and do I need it ?
The current rectifier doesn't seem correct one for me G,G and C are vacant and no more wires to fit. Hmmmmm
Have I royally F'ed up
Be gentle please.

I think it is the junction box on the motor. With the ground off the stator(black) and hot off the stator ( blue). Basically your 2nd picture (cdi). Hope that answers question 1. Not sure about question 2.

Idk what that is, but just look at it as connections. The engine junction box is below it in the confusing schematic. G G "should" be AC blue and black directly from the stator, to charge the battery and provide DC when the battery dies.
Not sure what C is for here. The older regulators used C as a sense function from the switch.
The 2nd schematic is for the Vape DC.

Everything DC, everything off the battery via the switch, right?
Do you have a pic of the back of the switch?

Thanks people,
Ray8 here is pic of rear of regulator.
Regarding the second schematic , I thought that I had to fit the extra wiring to connect it to the battery and therefore dc output. Pic included of bag of extra wiring in kit supplied.
I am retrofitting Led indicators and headlight.
Just had a look on sip site. States for use with vape rectifier, well spotted. would be good if it was printed on the document.

Would it be possible to connect it up as per diagram 1 and just connect battery to B+ connection on the regulator with fuses plus earth the battery of course.

You need a different regulator for full DC. This one's AC/DC…

Ignore diagram 1. That's AC.
Blue and black to G&G from stator. B+ to battery/feed to switch circuit as in diagram 2.
*Not sure about that particular regulator.

https://www.scooter-center.com/en/voltage-regulator-pin-12v-ground-ducati-vespa-elestart-from-1998-cosa-cosa2-elestart-xl2-elestart/p-47389.html

And sorry if I wasn't clear. Was asking for a pic of the back of the key switch you and I have under the seat.

I will put the electrics on the back burner for a bit, it's doing my head in.
I got the shits with it last night and removed the battery and extra wiring for dc, thought I'll just go with ac. This morning I am kicking myself, all I need is the rectifier, no big deal.
Wow the things that you do when not thinking clearly
Ray8 I will send you a pic of the switch later today ,but it's a modern one as old one was a mess.
Many thanks for all your inputs , I'll have a look around for a vape rectifier or similar, seem to be the next step.
Cheers Stu

There's an instructional video out there if you haven't seen it.

Great, I'll check it out.

If it's a modern 4 pole don't bother.
Best of luck!

I have to apologise. When I saw that loom I thought it had everything you wanted - I was swayed by the AC/DC description. Annoying that there is no DC option within the diagrams.

A Vape rectifier would work. If you're looking for DC only then you could get away with something cheaper, a full-wave rectifier from ebay or similar. Must be full-wave or you lose half your power. I've used them and while they are very cheap compared to the Vape it doesn't last as long in my experience, a couple of years perhaps?