OP
UTC

Lurker
2013 S 125 College
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2
Location: London East
 
Lurker
2013 S 125 College
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2
Location: London East
UTC quote
Hi, I have a 2013 Vespa S 125 2V

The odo has stopped at 6899; I heard that it's common for this to fail, being mechanical. My question is, how might one repair it? Is it a case of taking it apart and lubricating the little internal gears? Laughing emoticon

Does anyone have any experience with the odometer mechanism? As this is a relatively uncommon part for a vespa I would rather repair and preserve rather than swap a used one in, that just seems a bit pointless to me

If nobody on here has any relevant information, I suppose I will simply investigate

I will probably post more on here later about this
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Vespa S Clocks
Vespa S Clocks
@naturana avatar
UTC

Hooked
Vespa S 125 2008
Joined: UTC
Posts: 235
Location: Ukraine, Kyiv
 
Hooked
@naturana avatar
Vespa S 125 2008
Joined: UTC
Posts: 235
Location: Ukraine, Kyiv
UTC quote
I had that problem with a 2005 LX. I took the speedometer apart, lubricated the gears, and everything started working. It kept working for several years—until a fu...g russian rocket destroyed my scooter.
@bluecloud avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2018 GTS Super
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2913
Location: Googleville
 
Ossessionato
@bluecloud avatar
2018 GTS Super
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2913
Location: Googleville
UTC quote
CallMeEJ wrote:
Is it a case of taking it apart and lubricating the little internal gears?
I'd give it a shot.

If it looks like you're in over your head could send it to a speedo repair shop. We have a couple in the US that's all they do. I'm sure you have something similar in the UK.
@juan_orhea avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
S150 '09, Beo 500ie '08
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1622
Location: Bermuda
 
Molto Verboso
@juan_orhea avatar
S150 '09, Beo 500ie '08
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1622
Location: Bermuda
UTC quote
Before you assume there is anything wrong with the odometer itself, take a very good look at:
* the gear that's connected to the cable at the wheel. It is packed with grease that can become hard, and the teeth or vanes of the gear can strip or break. This can cause the internal spinning wire to stop.
* the cable sheath, which can rust or kink and break the inner spinning wire, or otherwise prevent it from spinning
* the connection between the upper part of the cable and the gearbox in the odometer, which can separate from the odometer or become stripped itself

While it is possible to replace just the inner spinning part of the cable, I wouldn't recommend doing it because it is unlikely that only the inner part has degraded.

It is a slight pain to replace the cable, requiring loosening some fasteners that are underneath the front fender. It can be quite difficult to thread a new cable correctly. The trick to doing it efficiently is to securely tape a nylon messenger string to the old cable, lubricate everything you can see with teflon spray lubricant, pull it out, which pulls the nylon messenger string into its place. Then pull the new cable in using the messenger string - thus guaranteeing that the new cable follows EXACTLY the path of the old one.
@jimc avatar
UTC

Moderaptor
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 46369
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
 
Moderaptor
@jimc avatar
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 46369
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
UTC quote
Juan_ORhea wrote:
Before you assume there is anything wrong with the odometer itself, take a very good look at:
* the gear that's connected to the cable at the wheel. It is packed with grease that can become hard, and the teeth or vanes of the gear can strip or break. This can cause the internal spinning wire to stop.
* the cable sheath, which can rust or kink and break the inner spinning wire, or otherwise prevent it from spinning
* the connection between the upper part of the cable and the gearbox in the odometer, which can separate from the odometer or become stripped itself

While it is possible to replace just the inner spinning part of the cable, I wouldn't recommend doing it because it is unlikely that only the inner part has degraded.

It is a slight pain to replace the cable, requiring loosening some fasteners that are underneath the front fender. It can be quite difficult to thread a new cable correctly. The trick to doing it efficiently is to securely tape a nylon messenger string to the old cable, lubricate everything you can see with teflon spray lubricant, pull it out, which pulls the nylon messenger string into its place. Then pull the new cable in using the messenger string - thus guaranteeing that the new cable follows EXACTLY the path of the old one.
The cable is OK - at least the OP hasn't said the speedo has stopped as well!

So irrelevant...
@znomit avatar
UTC

Hobbitus Moderatorus
S50, R1100s, way too many pushbikes, not enough cats.
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Posts: 11932
Location: Hermit Kingdom
 
Hobbitus Moderatorus
@znomit avatar
S50, R1100s, way too many pushbikes, not enough cats.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 11932
Location: Hermit Kingdom
UTC quote
jimc wrote:
The cable is OK - at least the OP hasn't said the speedo has stopped as well!

So irrelevant...
He hasn't said it hasn't stopped working though.
@juan_orhea avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
S150 '09, Beo 500ie '08
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1622
Location: Bermuda
 
Molto Verboso
@juan_orhea avatar
S150 '09, Beo 500ie '08
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1622
Location: Bermuda
UTC quote
Not SO irrelevant. Even if the speedo is working, which I did not assume, there is little point to doing a heavy lift dealing with the odometer gears if the fragile cable isn't in tip-top shape.

When I bought my S there were 110 miles on the odometer. I was handed the original speed/odo-meter in a bag with 1200 miles on it and a warning that the replacement had been very expensive. There turned out to be nothing wrong with the original odometer, but as I discovered over the next 100 miles, the cable was quite effed up. Apparently shops will waste a little of other peoples' money to avoid replacing the cable.

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