Modern Vespa

So I'm brand new to the forum. I just recently purchased a silver GT200 and frankly I'm smitten! I love it. I do however have two questions:

1.) Rear shock adjustment: I was perusing the manual and found some info about adjusting the rear shocks. The roads here in tulsa are very rough and it feels like my scooter bottoms out sometimes. I'm a 220lb guy so I'm curious if adjusting these shocks will help to reduce this feeling, also how will it affect the scooter handling?

2.) Idling: sometimes my scooter dies. I'm curious if adjusting the idle will resolve this? It dies during all sorts of weather and at a variety of engine temperatures.

any help would be much appreciated!
thanks!

Welcome! You'll love that thing. Go to a rally, these folks are really fun. Enjoy!

Answers:
1. YES preload your shocks. You are a big guy.
2. Perhaps on the idle adjustment. Also run premium gas and do not overfill.
3. (which you didn't ask) The manuals are here:
[topic630]
4. (which you didn't ask) The Yahoo! Vespa GT200 group is here:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/vespagt200
5. Here is a list of tips from that group....this will spark some discussion:

Use only mild soap and water on the wheels. Cleaners like Maguires or
even 409 can dull the coating. Powder coating to fix is an option.

2006 GT200's sometimes require the float in the carb to be reset.
Symptom is that it runs differently in different temperatures.

The Euro taillight does NOT use LEDs...just small bulbs.

The tan seat gets dirty easily. How to clean??? Personally, I have tan and I haven't found it getting dirty yet.

The fuel lines are prone to cracking. A replacement is available from ScooterWest.com for $15.

Do not overfill the tank with gas, ever. It floods the polution control equipment and can cause problems.

Remove the pet carrier when you fill up, that way, if you spill, it won't
make your raingear smell like the chevron.

Do not fill up at a station that has only one hose for three grades of fuel.
These tanks hold so little, the first gallon is just what was left in
the hose...and you'll be paying a premium for it.

If you are getting a windshield, get a full size one.

If you are changing the oil or draining the gear oil, use a front wheel
chock or have a friend hold the bike. The center stand is in the way
of both. I have been successful (twice now) at crafting aluminum funnels to avoid getting oil all over the stand.

Consider using a piece of aluminum foil to shape a "funnel" to drain
the fluids and keep them off the bike.

NEVER, EVER apply wax, shine, or armor all to your tires. When it rains,
this stuff becomes slick and will cause you to wipe out.

Don't install the rubber mat unless you are going to leave it on the
scoot forever, grit and debris collects under it and will scratch the
crap out of the paint under the mat.

If you scratch the paint, call aerocolours in your area. About $150 or
less to fix most anything. http://www.aerocolours.com/

Learn how to do work yourself. Get a manual here: [topic630]

When the low fuel light comes on, you have 1/2 gallon of gas left.

###########################################################################
Spark Plug Discussion:


Original = Champion RG 6 YC

NGK (Brandon) recommends base NGK plug stock #7411 CPR8E
10mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, resistor, projected center electrode

*OR*

New = NGK Iridium CR8EIX: Iridium IX plug, 10mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex,
gasket seat, resistor, fine wire (0.8mm) platinum center electrode,
tapered cut ground electrode

NGK iridium plugs represent the ultimate evolution of spark plug technology and performance. The iridium center electrode is both stronger and harder than platinum. This allows NGK engineers to design an ultra-fine (0.6mm) center electrode reducing the voltage requirement for spark. This allows for a brighter, stronger spark from your existing ignition system. The ground electrode has a tapered cut at the firing end which reduces quenching for better flame core growth and increased ignitability.
The combination of fine wire center electrode and tapered cut ground
will increase performance, improve acceleration, and fuel efficiency.

#############################################################################
From the manual: Recommended Lubricants...and then what is available in the US.

Rear hub: SAE 80W/90 oil, exceeding API GL3 specifications. TUTELA ZC 90.
I'm using Valvoline 75W90 full synthetic as it exceeds all specs and was
the closest weight available in my local market.

Air filter sponge: Mineral oil with specific additives to increase adhesion
ISO VG 150. SELENIA Air Filter Oil. I'm using the spray on oil from K&N.

Brake levers, throttle handgrip: Complex calcium soap grease NLGI 1-2. SYSTEM TW 249 AREXONS.

Engine oil: SAE 5W/40 synthetic oil, exceeding API SJ specifications. SELENIA HI Scooter 4 Tech.

First of all, API SM exceeds the old SJ standard. I put a pdf file
in the "files" section that explains this.

I cannot get the SELENIA oil locally. I searched, reviewed castrol,
AMSoil, and others.

I purchased a case of Valvoline fully synthetic SynPower SAE 5W40 from NAPA. I had to special order it.

Here's the poop: "Attributes : Motor Oil Style & Type : SynPower SAE 5W40.
Motor Oil Weight Rating : 5W40. Engine Fuel Type : Recommended for
Gasoline Powered Naturally Aspirated & Turbocharged Vehicles, Including
Luxury & High Performance Automobiles, Light Trucks & SUVs. Meet OE
Warranty Requirements : Yes. SAE 5w40: Provides the widest range of
protection available in the SynPower motor oil line. Delivers outstanding
cold temperature pumpability for rapid oil circulation at start-up.
Provides a thick oil film for ultimate wear protection. Exceeds all car
and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection
of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where an API SL, SM or CF oil
is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA A3/B3/B4/C3 and all preceeding
API Gasoline Engine Oils. Meets or exceeds the engine performance
requirements for BMW, Bentley, Corvette (GM4718M), Jaguar, Lexus,
Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Rolls Royce, Volkswagen, Volvo and other
high performance vehicles."

Brake fluid: Synthetic fluid SAE J1703, NHTSA 116 DOT 4, ISO 4925. TUTELA TOP 4.

I found the Valvoline SynPower DOT 4 at Kragen. It's full synthetic.

Coolant: Monoethylene glycol-based anti-freezer, CUNA NC 956-16. PARAFLU 11 FE (Diluted)

Grease for driven pulley shaft compensating ring and moveable driven
pulley sliding seat: Molybdenum disulphide grease. MONTBLANC MOLYBDENUM GREASE (498345).

Grease for wheel bearings, pivot housings and swing arm: Lithium soap and zinc oxide grease NLG12 for the oscillating arm. TUTELA ZETA 2.

The GT200 / GTS250 are very lovable machines. We understand.



Fabulous run-down from the rider from the town with three names.

If you calculate the volume of an entire gas hose, it's actually only a small fraction of a gallon. Been a while since I've done it, but as I remember, it's insignificant.


Rotella synthetic ( 5W-40, I think ) is used by many. My mech. engineer friends tell me oil is oil so long as it isn't terribly old or horribly stressed.

Mobile 1 sells a synthetic "gear oil" that meets specs.
When shopping I found several "synthetic's" that were actually "blends." Deceit runs high in oil sales.

thanks for the info and the welcomes, vespa people rock! I really appreciate the info as far as "preloading" the shocks is this a difficult procedure? any tips?

jeremiah

Preloading is super easy. There's a little spanner wrench in your tool kit. Just reach under and rotate the base of the shocks with the wrench.

http://tinyurl.com/3u8ru6 has more.

So does http://tinyurl.com/4ws8r5.

People complain, but I did mine in like 5 seconds.

Z

I had the same idling dilemma.

Adjusting the idle screw is easy, and that is what did it for me.

It's right on top of the carb facing you when you pull the pet carrier from under the seat.

I found that I had to adjust it, ride about a half mile, and re-adjust, until it was just right.

thanks for the tips! I adjusted my springs today! much better. I set them for number 4 which really tightened up the back end! I don't feel like i'm on a pogo stick when I hit a big bump now... =-) It was a little hard to get the left side adjusted the darn tire and the tank thingy were kinda in the way but I finally had success!

next I'm onto fixing the idle issue!

this forum rocks, you guys are amazing!


Thanks,
jeremiah

WOW thanks for the list zawalis!

"Do not fill up at a station that has only one hose for three grades of fuel. These tanks hold so little, the first gallon is just what was left in the hose...and you'll be paying a premium for it."

This never occurred to me, but it makes perfect sense. Thanks!

Zawalis! Holy you covered alot. Have you changed your Eurotail lights with aftermarket LED's?

i just filled up with shell gas and it seems to have resolved my stalling issues. Mabey theres something to their real gas campaign?

I haven't gone for the aftermarket LEDs, but secretly (shhhhhh) I have a grand plan to light all my directional indicators with small LEDs for better nighttime visibility. I'm also planning to pimp the bottom with dark blue leds...I have issues.

I'll post when done to brag.

"Zawalis", you may have issues (as they say, the first step is admitting it) but I look forward to seeing the results of your therapy in the parking lot. I'll apply as much of the info you provided as I can to the care of my GTS.

Hey Zawalis,

Its great that you have "issues"! I think that most of us on here have some degree of "issues".

Can wait to see and read about what you do with the LED's!

Hey Zawalis,

Its great that you have "issues"! I think that most of us on here have some degree of "issues".

Can wait to see and read about what you do with the LED's!

What are, is the setting for the mixture screw? Can't find any answers in the Vespa down load manual that I have on my computer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Goofed up!! I have a Vespa GT 200, 2005.

Also, to help firm up the back end replace the upper shock bushings with polyurethane bushings.
I used 80 durometer bushings made from black polyurethane rods I got at McMaster Carr.
Jettin offers premade sets of red 90 durometer bushings.
I use Turtle Wax tire creme for the sidewalls, you apply it with a sponge so it's easy to keep it off the tread.
My idle was low and came back up after I cleaned/oiled the air filter.

My understanding is seat it fully- then loosen it 2 to 2 1/2 turns.
From:Cleaned lx150 carb. No have no power. -RESOLVED- Carburettor Mixture Adjustment
GT 200: Adjusting the Idle

I overfilled my GT 200 with gas, 1st time ever.I've read that it causes problems with the pollution system. What are the symptoms, and what are the fixes.
Thanks

See here: EVAP Hose Removal

'should have been recommendation #1. Not that I'm anti-green. It's just a dumb-a$$ solution.

Hi folks, it's been a while. I meant to post this a long time ago.

Short version: Crank broke under normal load at 55 mph. Took almost 4 months to get it fixed. Factory said it was my fault and that the aftermarket muffler voided the warranty. A type holes. Impeccable maintenance records and photos of first oil change with shavings in oil change thier mind. Some mechanics say there was a problem and they've seen this before...others silent. Wrong crank installed...redo. Correct crank installed but now discover that the valves also bent...redo. Finally done and dealer begging like a little dog for scraps 'casue he didn't post profit. More A type holes.

Watch out.

Now riding BMW R850R. Wheelies all day, but takes forever to stop.

Z out.

I just purchased 2007 gt200 and I find this thread really helpful. Zawalis, or anyone, is there a working link to a manual? The link that was posted no longer seems to be working.

Everything seems to work fine, but then I am a complete novice. It's about to reach 3000 miles. Do I need to take in for a service? Any work that I can do myself?

I know the manual is out there electronically somewhere. I did everything myself, even the tires and the belt. It's not too hard. Just follow the instructions and use good tools. At 3k, just change the oil. The maintenance schedule calls for oil and filter change and a bunch of checks at 3750 miles.

best of luck.

Z

Here's the link to jimc's site with the GT200 manuals:
http://www.wotmeworry.org.uk/manuals/Vespa/GT200/ . You can download the workshop manual pdf from there.

Thanks for the info!

So, I went riding on it for the first time yesterday. I slipped on my way out of the parking garage and already left few marks on the side and an inch of the break lever broke. I practiced on a motorcycle for about a week without falling but I guess I just need to get better at it.

This morning, the ignition won't start. After the fall, it started fine and rode around for an hour.

Lights turn on, and when I turn on the ignition switch, it almost starts but doesn't. The ignition response progressively got weaker and weaker and after about 5 minutes of trying, now it's just a whimper. Did I do something wrong here?

Is it the battery? It worked fine during test drive and yesterday's ride. Did I do something with the ignition switch? I read somewhere that if I throttle while turning on the ignition, it floods the air filter.

As you can see, I'm a total novice, but a committed novice nonetheless. thank y'all for your help in advance.

Sorry to hear about your accident, at least it sounds like you were not hurt.

First of all, if the starter motor is weakening, most likely your battery is pooping out, especially if you tried to start the scoot constantly for 5 minutes. Before you drain the battery completely, buy yourself a basic battery tender (something like this, but make sure it's a "smart" charger), since it's good to have one anyway, and recharge your battery.

Second, if you laid the scoot down, you may also have flooded your air filter (especially if you laid the scoot on its left side), and/or flooded the evap system. Both can cause starting problems after a laydown. Here's some info on how to tell a flooded air filter by checking the clear rubber drain caps on the front and rear of the air filter box (left side, under your cowl just above the transmission).

As for the evap, it's an issue only if you are in the US, but if you are it's a common major source of starting problems so you should take care of it regardless. Here's some starter info on that. It literally takes a couple minutes to disconnect the hose from the carburetor.

For this and anything else, use the Wiki on this site and the search function to locate more info, and if you still have problems don't hesitate to ask more questions. Good luck!

Thank you for the info! I'm finding this forum incredibly helpful. The issue as you predicted was the battery, but I managed to get under the hood a bit and check all the fluid levels and change oil. No accidents or troubles since!

+1, except here in Hawaii -- and perhaps in OK, at least in the summer -- the tall windshield isn't the way to go. IMHO the fly screen and the mid-size screens provide welcome ventilation.

I totally recommend the Iridium plug.

When I fill the tank, I just watch the pump and stop at 1.8 gallons. No overfills; no gas in the pet warmer.