Modern Vespa

Changing the gear oil and the engine oil the work shop manual states to use AGIROTRA 80W-90 rear hub oil SAE 80W-90 oil that exceeds the requirements of API GL3 specfications. The engine oil recommended produsts is AGIP CITY TEC 4T Engine Oil SAE 5W-40. A dealer sent me SAE 75W-90 API GL-5 gear oil and SAE 10W-40 4 cycle SP-4A engine oil. Would this be okay to us instead of what is recommended? Also the work shop manual states to tighten the oil filter to 8+/- 0.2nm, what does this mean in english.

I'm no mechanic, but a person could go crazy trying to find the specific oils mentioned in the manual. I've gone with AMSOIL Synthetic Scooter Oil 10 - 40W.

As for the filter, just don't over tighten it and check for leaks.

Some of the experts will chime in here with their opinions so hang in there.

Thanks so much for the information.

I use either motul or motorex, they have 5w40 full syn. scooter oil and also make hub oil that if not the exact specified wt. will work just fine

Well I promise the solution is not to run the wrong weight oil

Any motorcycle shop should have a T4 5W-40 Full Synthetic.

Wayne B

I picked what O'Rielly Auto parts had that was full synthetic and the right weight and had ratings that closely matched what the manual called for.

I ended up with Valvoline SynPower full synthetic 5W-40 and Castrol 75W90 Syntec full synthetic gear oil.

The issue though is the T4 rating. I have not found out what that rating is, but it seems to be very clearly stated that it needs T4 oil. It's real simple for a manufacture to get out of engine warranty claims if correct oil is not used.

Wayne B

Castrol Syntec lists a T4 service grade in its ratings. It is a specific rating for motorcycle compatible oils and VW engines I think. The whole world of ratings is very confusing though.

I'm going 2 try this next..Maybe I can make 100000000 miles..

I thought you passed that 100000000 miles ago!

Available at most of your Parts Unlimited dealers, 4-liter jug for $44.50.

Speaking of gear (transmission) oil, has anyone used Royal Purple SAE 75W-90 synthetic oil to good results?

I understand the spec for MP3 500 calls for API GL-3 80W-90 (AGIP ROTRA); but would the 75W-90 Royal Purple from O'Reilly's be just fine?

Also, Royal Purple meets the requirements of API GL-4 and GL-5, therefore it should be sufficient for the GL-3 spec that's called for, right?

I haven't tried it , but I know someone who has , and they love the stuff. He uses it in his Super sized pick-up, for some time now . Pretty sure they're located in Texas. Their web-site is pretty awesome looking. Right now I'm sold on Motul in my 250 Mp3 , engine and tranny.

to the best of my knowledge yes a gl4 or 5 exceeds the gl3 so no problems I can see. royal purple has been around for a long time and for gear lube that just sloshes around in a sealed housing I would use it. I currently have Belray gear lube in mine. thanks for reminding me I need to do a fluid change on that anyway. its 6k time.

12K for me already.

I think it's next to impossible finding AGIP ROTRA 80W-90; unless someone could throw me a link?

Found castrol synthetic 5w-40 at auto stores, seems to meet the standards needed. Rear gear case oil, one type is "Hypo", not sure if this is required; but would likely be a better type oil to my knowledge. Hypo tends to coat the gears better I believe.

What is the deal with the super high cost of our oil and filter? Do other scooters need special oils too? The filter cost also seems too far out of line, I hope these prices come down as more scooters get on the road.

The service manual for the MP3 500 that I've downloade from this site states
THE ENGINE MUST BE HOT WHEN THE OIL IS
CHANGED.
Recommended products
AGIP CITY HI TEC 4T Engine oil
SAE 5W-40 Synthetic oil that exceed the requirements
of API SL, ACEA A3, JASO MA specifications.

But I've also seen SAE 80w/90.

So which is it and does the engine have to be hot?

5W-40 synthetic and cold is fine not to mention easier.
I use Mobile One for diesel engines.

80W-90 is gear oil.

2 different oils. the 5-40 is for your engine and you fill that thru your dipstick. the 80/90 hub/gear is filled thru the long black stick at the very back of the vari housing on the inside. the drain plug for that is on the inside towards the rear wheel and is a allen bolt that has the copper washer on it. some find it easier to have a long allen to reach it from the right side of the rear wheel.

Impurities are suspended in the oil while it is hot. This is why you should change the oil after running the engine to normal operating temperatures.

So tell me, Mr. P, where do the impurities go when the oil is cold ??

I'm going to go out on a lim here and use dino/petroleum Wal-mart oil every 2,000 miles like I've done on all my motorcycles/scooters for decades, even though synthetic oil has been recommended before on some of my newer vehicles. Have had no regrets so far in thousands of miles of use.

And synthetic oil isn't "Recommended" it is "REQUIRED" !!!!

You win a price!!! I'm going to put you at the top of a list in my book too. But that's not really a good thing But you do amaze me. Penny wise Dollar Foolish, real foolish.
You are saving what, $5-$7 an oil change if you at least use a cheap synthetic. Hum, $7 or what $3,500 motor or maybe only $2500. Just doesn't make any sense to me.

Another reason I don't buy used anymore

And where are you finding a 5W-40 Dino oil?

Wayne B

They drop to the bottom of the oil pan or what ever passage they are in. You should always change the oil hot.

With the last two posted you have made, I really am skeptical if you have any knowledge of engines or oil. Your last two post are making me cringe.

Wayne B

Thanks for the quick reply! My scooter has 800miles on it and I need to take it in for it's first oil change. After that I plan on chaning my own.

Let's see, I've been riding MCs for 47 years and road raced some before their was synthetic oil. If you bothered to read what some real oil experts recommend, it is to change your oil more often than recommended, because some additives in oil start to lose their effect around 3,000 miles in dino oil. That's why I change my oil every 2K miles.

I have an `04 MC that recommends you use 5W-40 synt. oil. Instead I use dino 10W-40 oil that is also recommended for turbo charged car engines, which get's hot in the turbo sequence. I've put dino oil in this MC for 32K miles with no regrets. I also know the oils recommended are to cover all possible weather conditions. When I ride it's rarely below 30 deg. F., so I'm not worried about the thickness of the oil at that temp. with 10W. At what temps. do you really ride ? If I needed a thinner oil I would use 5W-30 dino oil in the winter time.

Spend your money as you wish.

I have a Moto Guzzi motorcycle that has the spin on oil filter in the sump, so when it's time to change it I have to drop the sump. Sometimes there's a bit of sludge on the bottom, sometimes there isn't, whether the oil was warm or not when I change it. I then clean out the sump if needed and replace the filter. Another thing, if the sludge is on the bottom of the pan it's not going to be in the oil circulating in the motor. This MC has over 100,000 miles on the motor now. When it was new the factory recommended using Castrol 10W-50 oil, near impossible to buy in the USA. All I have ever used in it is dino 10W-40 oil in the winter and 20W-50 oil in the summer. Now who really knows what they're talking about here ?

I just unpacked the Motul Scooter power 4T5W40 engine oil that I ordered. It was recomended from the guy that sold me the bike.

Olive oil will work well enough if you change it often enough.

FFS, use the recommended type (most oils are better today anyway) and don't quibble. It's a minimal part of the outlay on maintenance, unless you buy the stuff in one litre bottles from a dealer - and WTF does that?

The 250 I.e manual states that: "The topping up of the level between MIN and MAX requires approx. 200 cc of oil." I can´t for the life of me figure out how many milliliters that would be. I really dont want to pour too much oil in there

A ml and a cc are the same. By design.

I did. Once!

I use a baby bottle for small amounts of oil to be added, like for the hub/gear lube. Or you can steal your spouses measuring cup and deny all where abouts of it as you would not ever let it out of the garage again. Auto parts stores sell a measuring container for these things also.

Good idea, but how do I know that i dont pour too much? Or is it a matter of trial and error?

Of topic
Which is moust correct to write: Dont or Don`t? Sorry but Im trying to improve my english a bit.

don't!

Thank you for the help. Don`t it is then.

I learned from my wife, that the apostrophe goes where the vowel is removed.
Don't, Won't, Can't are contractions.

Do not, Will not, Can not. The apostophe goes where the "o" would be.
No space between the apostrophe and the surrounding letters.
Hope this helps for the future.


Mike
P.S. never thought I would be giving any english lessons. I'm not even British

if it is half way down between the marks add 100cc 1/4 way = 50cc .

The "Ester" based synthetics are kinda considered state of the art right now, oils like Motul 5100 and Red Line. I have also had great luck with Mobile 1 in all my vehicles.

Lots of good choices out there.

Kent