Modern Vespa

I checked many bar end posts, but no one seemed to have this problem. I installed the top case for for GTS, and then it called for the heavier ends to replace the stock ones.

The bolt does follow the righty tighty, lefty loosey convention right?
The bolt doesn't want to budge. I fear too much torque will strip the hex slot; the only movement I sensed was that. I was using the little "L" shaped wrenches (broke both). Should I look for something more substantial? I believe the size is #4 (from another post). Is there a recommended oil/loosener that may help. The scoot is brand new, so age and rust should not be an issue.

Side note on top case install. I forget the particulars, but earlier today I read some posts about bouncy top cases. The instructions failed to mention that the backrack has plastic chrome caps in the holes for the two rear-most bolts. These caps fit into recsesses on the case and can easily appear integral to the rack, and some may skip the bolt step. I used a sharp blade and was able to find a crack to begin to pry the caps out. I wonder, is everyone with a bouncy case being held down by 4 bolts, two forward, and two to the rear? Mine is quite rigid.

Any tips will be much appreciated. By the way, my accessories are almost all here, and I will soon post a more official introduction and show off the new scoot. Thanks!

I am the last person who should be giving any advice to anyone about the bar ends, but I will only because no one has yet. I broke one of the bolts during installation by over torquing it. Anyhoooooo it is the normal lefty loosey and righty tighty. Nothing special about it.

After you loosen the bolt somewhat, if the bar end doesn't come loose, tap the bolt to force the expansion fitting loose. Usually, the fitting stays lodged while the bolt just starts backing out. A light tap on the bolt head will free everything up.

P.

A heavy one will certainly work, and won't break anything.

If you have no issue with tossing the original bar ends, use a channel locks "left loosy" along with your L shaped 4 (is it a 4?) and they will come undone with no thread damage. If you want your original bar ends without scratches on them try another suggested method.

Best,
SDG

As far as penetrant oil, you can't beat Deep Creep made by Sea Foam.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/products.htm

Cheers

Thanks for the tips. I'll give them a try.

Rather than using a long lever to undo it, use a hammer on the key. The sharp impact might do what a sustained torque cannot.
Mike

Good idea, lets hammer that point home... Again...

Dunno if it''ll work since the bugger is so long, but I've sometimes had success by applying an electric soldering iron to the end of a small-diameter stuck screw or bolt, and immediately holding an ice cube to it once it warms up. The temp differential is enough to unseize the thing...
sometimes...just a thought...

Heat the bolt heads with a propane torch for a few minutes and use a real tool--an allen socket in a 3/8" ratchet handle--and they will turn right out. Just heat the bolt heads, not the whole bar end. No need for ice or anything else. You are probably battling thread sealant and the heat will take care of it. Just don't burn yourself--the bolts and bar ends will be hot. The GTS bar end bolts do not thread into expansion sleeves.

Propane torch? Wow this is getting very interesting to get a couple of bar end weights off.

SDG

I had the same problem. There is an easy way around this. Wrap the bar ends with some prtoective rubber and put a set of locking pliers (mole grips) on the bar end. Turn the pliers with the allen wrench at the same time and the whole lot will come free. This was after I managed to round off my hex bolt!

I ended up doing the ugly. Got my left side off, but stripped the right hex bolt. Luckily, Barry at SFSC had an extractor tool and he got it out with ease. I embarrass myself so that if you end up stripping it, there is still hope. Good luck and hope there's a Barry 'round your area.