I have a 24mm 6 point socket. My question is am I better off using a breaker bar or a pneumatic impact wrench to loosen it (with the least chance of F....... it up)?
Regards
Harvey
⚠️ Last edited by Harvey on UTC; edited 3 times
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I'm attempting to do an oil change on my GTS. The last oil change was done by my dealer, and they really tightened that oil plug down. Similar to this thread; stuck oil plug, but I haven't rounded off my plug (yet...).
I have a 24mm 6 point socket. My question is am I better off using a breaker bar or a pneumatic impact wrench to loosen it (with the least chance of F....... it up)? Regards Harvey ⚠️ Last edited by Harvey on UTC; edited 3 times
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NO!
add some heat. If you can't run it coz the exhaust is off, I suggest a heat gun from home depot. They come in handy I've found. Easy,steady pressure on the breaker bar if you must. Impact, NO! |
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I would go with a breaker bar and apply gentle torque. I have had to do this on my last two scooters to get the nut undone. 24" bar.
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Molto Verboso
GTS 300ie
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i use a socket wrench and hit it with a hammer a few times in both directions - i also use foul language
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why do dealers do things up so tight , don't they use a torque wrench , my oil nut was realy tight and had to use socket and a tap with a hammer , it's now torqued to correct setting and can be easily undone now
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A breaker bar is fine, apply firm steady pressure and it will come loose.
Check your O-ring--it may be in bad shape if the dealer tightened the shit out of your drain bolt. When you reinstall, lube your O-ring with fresh oil and torque down to 24-30 Newton Meters as specified. You won't leak, you won't have trouble removing it the next time and you won't damage the threads or O-ring. That is all. P. |
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trowel and cuffs wrote: get a grinder and saw it off! |
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T100, DR650, GTS 350ie in my Future
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heating the plug wont work very well: aside from destroying the o ring, the plug expands greater than the metal it is screwed into. In this case, heating can be effective if it is mostly corrosion which has locked the thread together, which is unlikely because of the oil present.
The long bar and steady pressure is the simplest way to go. You could also try spray freeze on it, which chills the plug to about -40°C. Remember this if your brake disc bolts are seized |
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Thanks all for your advice. I picked up a 2 foot breaker bar. Worked like a charm. The O ring is damaged, & needs replacing.
trowel and cuffs; Bad Dog! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0mfPMrd79A Regards Harvey |
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i just changed the oil on my et4, and i had to knock on the plgug with the wrench... i rounded the fucking corners and cut my finger first...
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Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
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okay, here's my method of attack:
15/16" stubby craftsman, medium sized channel locks and the ball pien hammer. the stubby wrench fits perfectly on the plug and clears the muffler nicely: then you can smack it with the hammer to get the plug loose. the channel locks remove the filter easily and you can get the prefilter out of the hole from behind the plug as well to help get the rest of the oil out of the sump. using an impact is probably going to destroy the lands on the plug or you'll more than likely miff the threads. tread carefully.... best, -greasy |
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Slow steady pressure at op temp with Bar is best. High shock on alloy cast casing to torque large diameter fine thread Steel plug, NOT SO MUCH...
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We used to use stuff called "never seize" or something like that on varied type metals like that.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 GTS
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trowel and cuffs wrote: We used to use stuff called "never seize" or something like that on varied type metals like that. |
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Cool !! Yes! Somebody does know what I am talking about. Good stuff from what I remember. We used it on race (enduro) bikes.
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Ossessionato
Looking for the next one, probably electric
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Neverseez...mother's milk
Use it on things that get hot because those are the ones that will sieze. |
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breaker bar with 10" extension, and if needed, a flex 6 pt socket if you cannot take the extension straight out because of interferences.
then slowly apply torque |
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The guys at the MC shop when I had my big Kaw used hand-impact wrenches a lot, not pneumatic ones, mostly on screws. I have one, but I've never used it on my scoot.
I favor the longer bar rather than whacking a shorter wrench--amazing what a little leverage will accomplish. Cary |
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