If I have an LX50, will the factory warranty/roadside assistance cover if I drove the scooter in the rain and it wont start?
thanks in advance....
OP
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If I have an LX50, will the factory warranty/roadside assistance cover if I drove the scooter in the rain and it wont start?
thanks in advance.... |
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UTC
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It should. Vespa's are full use vehicles, rain should not hurt them, nor void the warranty/roadside assistance.
The rain and not starting might be coincidence, or the rain might have caused something faulty to short out. Either way you should be covered. |
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It should be fine. I have rode my GTS in the rain many times and it has been fine (a wet full face on the other hand...).
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Ossessionato
'07 GTS-250ie - sold and gone
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2023 Location: the Queen City of the West, aka Porkopolis |
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Ossessionato
'07 GTS-250ie - sold and gone
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2023 Location: the Queen City of the West, aka Porkopolis |
Hooked
black 09 GTS 250 Super "Miranda", 05 Stella (sold)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 396 Location: Lost Twixt Denver and Wyoming |
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Hope I'm not hijacking thread, I know I'm too wordy, but I wanted to give an idea of exactly what I did. I'm quite good with electrical wiring, been doing it awhile:
I added a LED brakelight with a 4 sec flasher to my GTS Super. I tapped off the blk/wht wire at the rear right cowl by opening the black harness tubing then I spliced in using a snap splice connector, leading to an inline 1 amp fuse, then to the flasher--->LED bar. I grounded to the right turn signal screw. I used heat shrink tubing on most of the soldered connections, with electrical tape over. Used electrical tape over the splice and the section of black tubing harness I peeled away. Dressed the whole thing as best I could with cable ties, tried to leave clearance for shock compression as best I could. I avoided touching any sharp metal edges. Everything is tiewrapped to either the cowl, right turn signal housing, or the harness...so nothing is articulating in the dressing area. 1) How far does the shock move from unloaded on centerstand (or how far does wheel and exhaust move upward)? 2) With all the above work, I hope it's sealed enough against bad weather. The flasher unit is waterproof, and past the splice I have it fused anyway. But has anyone had problems doing mods like this in this area? Seems like a lot of mud would slosh around in this spot. 3) If I had an electrical issue that didn't seem to be brake light related, could dealer still claim warranty is voided for electricals? Thanks for your patience from probably a needlessly worried splicer... |
UTC
Ossessionato
'07 GTS-250ie - sold and gone
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2023 Location: the Queen City of the West, aka Porkopolis |
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Ossessionato
'07 GTS-250ie - sold and gone
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2023 Location: the Queen City of the West, aka Porkopolis |
UTC
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Boondocks, it sounds to me like you did a really good job, covering your splices and securing your additional wiring.
You should not have any warranty trouble if an electrical issue comes up. In order to deny a claim, the dealer would have to prove that your mod caused the problem. The only thing the brake light circuit shares its fuse with is the starter relay, and your mod's current draw is well within the capacity of the circuit you tied into. Your 1A fuse was a good addition, and would go a long way toward showing that your mod didn't overload the brake light circuit. |
Hooked
black 09 GTS 250 Super "Miranda", 05 Stella (sold)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 396 Location: Lost Twixt Denver and Wyoming |
UTC
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Cincinnati John wrote: Boondocks, it sounds to me like you did a really good job, covering your splices and securing your additional wiring. You should not have any warranty trouble if an electrical issue comes up. In order to deny a claim, the dealer would have to prove that your mod caused the problem. The only thing the brake light circuit shares its fuse with is the starter relay, and your mod's current draw is well within the capacity of the circuit you tied into. Your 1A fuse was a good addition, and would go a long way toward showing that your mod didn't overload the brake light circuit. Could have maybe smeared sone RTV or epoxy over the splice- only way to make it even better- but probably not needed. I still wonder about how close the wheel will get to it in a bump at full travel. I tried to have the nearest wire about 3/4 inch to the right edge of tire's plane. And high above the exhaust. So does the full travel from on centerstand to bottom of travel> 4 inches or so?? |
UTC
Ossessionato
'07 GTS-250ie - sold and gone
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2023 Location: the Queen City of the West, aka Porkopolis |
|
Ossessionato
'07 GTS-250ie - sold and gone
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2023 Location: the Queen City of the West, aka Porkopolis |
UTC
quote
Boondocks wrote: Cincinnati John wrote: Boondocks, it sounds to me like you did a really good job, covering your splices and securing your additional wiring. You should not have any warranty trouble if an electrical issue comes up. In order to deny a claim, the dealer would have to prove that your mod caused the problem. The only thing the brake light circuit shares its fuse with is the starter relay, and your mod's current draw is well within the capacity of the circuit you tied into. Your 1A fuse was a good addition, and would go a long way toward showing that your mod didn't overload the brake light circuit. Could have maybe smeared sone RTV or epoxy over the splice- only way to make it even better- but probably not needed. I still wonder about how close the wheel will get to it in a bump at full travel. I tried to have the nearest wire about 3/4 inch to the right edge of tire's plane. And high above the exhaust. So does the full travel from on centerstand to bottom of travel> 4 inches or so?? That shock travel sounds about right. Maybe, with the bike on the stand, you could measure the gap between two adjacent spring coils, then multiply by the number of coils to get how much shorter the spring would be when fully compressed. At least you're thinking about that sort of thing. |
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