Modern Vespa

...less fruitful then I hoped. I move my scoot onto level ground and move my pan into position. I then slip a plastic bag over the center stand leg. After moving the scoot onto the stand I have everything set up. I found a metric rachet set in my basement and I have my oil filter and O ring all lined up and ready to go. I look at the oil filter on my bike and... aww [insert expletive here]. It is the old filter with the non hex head. All that work and damn, I have no way to get the filter off.
Making a list for a Sears run later in the week.
1.)Torque wrench
2.)Torx set
3.)Oil wrench
4.)A smidge bigger rachet set for the oil drain nut

Anything I'm leaving out? Last time I work without making absolutly sure that I have the correct tools for the job.

The quick and dirty way is to stab the oil filter with a screwdriver, then twist it off. In fact, if you clean up the old one you may be able to twist it off with your hands.



Regards
Harvey

You can get it off without any special tools.

Option A. Large screwdriver shaft.

Option B. Side of a prybar, side of an open end wrench.

Option C. Jam a smaller screwdriver right into the side of the filter and use as a handle.

Option D. Chain type pipe wrench.

Do not forget the 6-pack of Pabst Blue Ribbon. After the job; successful or not, a cold PBR will make it all seem worthwhile.

I still need the torx for the exhaust, my ratchet will not fit otherwise. I was thinking of getting the Jettin filter drain wrench (killing two birds with one stone). Anyone have any experience with these? How good are they?

I had that beer at the Solerunners rally. Not bad actually.

You do not have to remove the exhaust to change oil on a GTS.

21 mm wrench for the drain plug. 24 mm for the filter (or see above).

Plenty of clearance to do everything with the pipe and muffler on!!!

I change my oil, takes a total of 20 minutes and is easy as cupcake.

You're overthinking.

Only things you can screw up are A. Overtightening plug or filter. B. Not lubricating the O-rings and C. Overfilling.

P.

Been there, done that with my car. I remember changing the oil for the first time on my Honda Element, drained the oil, and then looked at the oil filter and said a few choice words and saw that the filter was too small for the oil filter wrench I had. Thankfully I had a friend who works in a mechanic's shop and was able to loan me a wrench for like 2 minutes for me to get the old filter off. After that oil change, i promptly ordered the right wrench. Boy was I embarrassed

An Allen key or wrench fits very well into that slot.....

Agreed

you're way overthinking.

the only difference is I use channel locks to get the filter off.

Check out this thread and find greasy125's post.

It's the 17th one down.




LX150 Oil Change - Problem

I use channel lock pliers as well. Why mess with a screw driver and stabbing the filter...never saw the logic in that.

hmm This would be easier it looks like if I raise the rear wheel... I'll think of something. Also do I need a torque wrench for this job or is hand tight fine (obviously MORE tight on the drain nut)?

Hand tighten filter (hard) is fine.

After many years wrenching motorcycles I have become a firm believer in the torque wrench. You can get by with the drain plug without one if you're careful.

Personally I've found aluminum alloy (most of your motor and drive train) is too easily damaged. I've found suspension and steering components can be sensitive to proper torque settings. I've found that components such as wheels, brakes and the like to be inconvenient when they fall off.

If you're serious about doing maintenence get a 3/8" and 1/2" drive torque wrench and use them.

As far as the drain bolt--be careful not to cross thread and don't overtighten.

After you fill with oil, with the bike running get down with a clean rag and check for leaks. A little too loose, you can adjust quickly. Cross-thread or strip and you're in for a repair. I knew guys whose bikes were outfitted everywhere with HeliCoil®. Don't let that guy be you.

P.

Get yourself two 2' long pieces of 2x6 board and place them against your real wheel, force your center stand down onto them (takes a bit of work to line up) and then you have an extra 3" to work with underneath your bike.

For my riser block I cut out a 4" x 4" u-section out of the two 2x6's so that the rear wheel wouldn't interfere with the center stand.

I also second the torque wrench. Buy a quality one (Snap-on, Craftsman, Mack, etc) and it will last you a lifetime.

What would I use the two drive torque wenches for? IE what would I use the 3/8 for and what would I use the 1/2 for?

Agree with above. Channel Lock pliers will have that filter off in seconds. No need to remove anything, just put it on the center stand and catch the oil. You can use a piece of aluminum foil to divert the oil into your pan. You also don't need to remove the rear wheel (or exhaust) to change the hub oil. You can reach the drain screww through a wheel slot from the right side of the scooter. A strategically placed piece of aluminum foil will divert all the hub oil straight down into your catch pan. I've done it more than once and never had to wipe up a drop of oil from any part of the scooter.