Modern Vespa

I was wondering that too? Eric?

edit: Didn't read down before posting.

Mineral or synthetic in the trans. If your looking for a more snappy response run the 30wt or less and change it often. If your looking for longevity run an 80 or 90wt and change every 1500 mi or less.

For road racing I set up some 2 stroke transmissions with transmision fluid instead of gear oil. Reason is the viscosity level is extremely high and the water like consistency of tranny fluid creates less drag in the gear box transfering more power to the rear tire, when your chasing tenths of seconds these things matter, if you decide to try this your on your own and change it every 100 miles.

For the top end your probably running a castor blend which has been a proven performer for decades but don't write off synthetics. In a 2 stroke castor tends to create carbon and gum up the rings and foul plugs where synthetics don't.

That is so fucking cool...I tried growing a beard and it itched way too bad and had to trim it then shave it off after a month and a half. Does transoil take the itch away or something? haha

here's another question i have: what's better to use, the old style cardboard crush washers, or the copper ones like they're putting on the 'new' px 150 gearboxes?

Either will work fine. Use what's available. My buddy swears by the copper ones, but I don't see a need for them.

I wanted to say thanks for this thread. I just got in from the garage, changing my gearbox oil. It was a simple little task that I'm sure is 101 level, but I'm quite proud of myself for getting it done. My wife isn't so happy about her gravy boat. I used a little oil pump can like the one pictured to add the oil. Worked good.

I also put on my new taillight lens I purchased from Motorsport Scooters, so it's been a "big" scooter weekend for me. Previously I was rocking the red taped hillbilly taillight.

Is it weird to think that I noticed a difference in the way to scooter drove, shifted, etc? Seemed smoother, I assume it's from the fresh, full oil.

Also, are the replacement paper / copper washers available at any auto parts store or are they something that I need to get from Motorsport?

Anyway, thanks again. I'm loving the P -

Just my 2 cents to add-
The copper washers last a longer time. If you can find them, buy them, they are superior and for me, they leak less.

Also - honey bear squeeze bottles, once used and cleaned, are good for squirting oil into the hole. The bigger the better.
If you prefer to buy them clean, then art supply bottles also work, google is your friend, they should be less than $2. Reusable too.

It helps to drain oil with the motor warmed, it just flows out faster. And if you want to be really clean, squirt fresh oil in there after the old stuff has drained, and let that drain out the hole too. Then, plug the drain hole and fill.

Has anyone tried to glue on a rare earth magnet to the tip of the drain/fill plug screws? Its an old trick, but it might trap some metal shavings from being recirculated. Im wondering.

I know from BMW tinkering that they like to pour the oil through a fine cloth, to check for shavings, or extent of wear, before they go and do a teardown.

p

Thanks! for the thread.......

my dad would hold his hand under the pour and let the oil run through his fingers like sand at the beach. so thats what i do.

warm the motor a little. let it settle the particulates(if any)pull the plug and get your hands dirty.

look and feel the oil

wipe with shop rag

Scooterworks used to sell a magnetic screw for the bottom of the cases for just this reason.

I took a look and could only find the one for a Buddy now but I'm sure there are other places to get them.

I'm gonna change my gear box oil !!!

YAY!

this was a funny thread. It makes me want to grow back the stach' but my wife really really dislikes it.

she says it makes me look like a douche bottle'

also, do i use the torque settigns on the oil plugs on the engine from the owners manual?

are there any tips for not over-tightening, damaging the engine?

and

do i need to replace the paper/ copper seals every time i change the gear box oil?

you need to replace the paper / copper seals every time. as for torque, eh, just tighten them up up snug. if you overtighten them and strip them, you're in for a world, world, world of hurt.

I only replace the paper seals when they start to come apart. order some so you have them on hand but they last quite a while.

I also use hylomar on them and on the threads as well.

mr. owens... i pose the following question to you sir: what oil and clutch set up did you use in unstealth for the cannonball?

reason being, i'm on the cusp of needing another clutch in the PK and... well... i dunno... i'm thinking of going with the surflex plate again and i'm kinda at a loss on the fluids....

what say you, sir...

best,
-greasy

I just ran a 4 plate clutch, may have been the surflex one. The only problem with this clutch is that the outer tabs of the cork plates start to get mashed and deformed after about 5000 miles.

As for oil I use Red Line MTL and have in all my vespas for the last 19 years.

the easiest way to fill the gear box is to drill a hole in to the lid of said oil bottle, fit a rear brake adjuster on to it so the threaded part is pointing out of the lid, then screw on the retaining nut so its held in place, put the lid back on the bottle then fit a piece of rubber tubing to the threaded part of the adjuster, put the tubing in to the hole and squeeze the bottle. as soon as oil seeps back outta the hole, stop. 8)

paul

I use the plastic squeeze bottles from the beauty supply place. They have lines on them so you know how much you've added as well.

So, Eric. You still doing the World Beard Championship?

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