Modern Vespa

Shit...clutch is a little loose. I've tighten the clutch cable and clutch nipple. When I go to start it and put it in 1st gear it does a little jump then cuts out. Kind of like before but with a little push before it cuts out. I believe now that I need to adjust (tighten) the slack adjuster. The thing just turns and turns. There seems to be a lock nut there infront of the slack adjuster. They both turn at the same time. Do I need to retain the lock nut in place so it won't move, then tighten the slack adjuster?

Man, adjusting this thing is a bitch . So I retained the lock nut and then tighten the slack adjuster. The clutch felt a whole lot tighter. I had to start it up a bunch of times to see if it was tight enough for it not to stall in first gear. Initially it would stall right away once I put it into first gear but I finally got it tight enough and now it wasn't stalling in first gear at all. So after a few runs of going into first and going through all gears everything was cool until I snapped the clutch cable . I'm just wondering if I had it too tight or maybe this thing was ready to snap?

Anyways, this is my first time installing a new clutch cable. I know how to adjust it, now I just need to know how to thread it down from the headset/clutch lever. If anyone has any trick on how to do this please let me know. Thanks!

Use the old cable to pull the new cable through the outer sheath. If the cable broke at the lower end, you will have to cut off the barrel on the headset end. Securely tape the lower end of the new cable to the headset end of the old one with electrical tape, making sure it will fit through the sheath. Then pull it through from the bottom. Might need a helper at the headset end to apply "body English" to the cable from that end - push, pull.


Al

It broke at the top unfortunatley. I have quite a bit of extra of the old cable at the bottom. I think I should be able to pull the old cable from the top and tape it to the new cable. Is there enough room to tape the cables side to side and pull it through? Thanks!

I used to butt them end to end and wrap them tightly with the tape, testing the union with a solid pull. Make sure there are no stray wire ends to get snagged on the outer.

Don't forget to oil the new cable overnight.

Al

Thanks Al, you have been a great help.

I'd bet it was ready to snap. Perhaps the reason it became hard to start at one point and stalled in first only was because the clutch cable had already lost some tension, and then this adjustment was what put it over the edge to make it break.

I snapped both gear cables and the clutch cable this summer, and there was definitely a change in feel (things got "looser" with resulting changes in operation) before the outright snap. I guess that because some strands of the braided cable go before the core ones do, and that results in less tension.

BTW, here's a guide to changing the clutch cable (which you've probably already figured out by now).

While it's more work, because it involves changing outer housings and not just the inner cable, I'd recommend getting teflon lined housings at some point, too: Cables slide much more easily without any snags and it probably extends cable life. I can actually feel the difference in both hand levers and rear brake action.

Like you, my clutch cable snapped at the top end, and I ended up having to take the speedo off in order to get access through the headset to make sure the housing was seated properly, as well as removing the clutch lever itself. I just fed the new cable directly down the housing from the top end, knowing it would come out the other end. I did this because I didn't want to have to cut the lug.

Once you get the lug set in the clutch lever, make sure to get rid of any slack, and then be prepared to make multiple adjustments at the clutch end -- in my case it wasn't just with the slack adjuster, but overall how much I pulled the clutch itself before tightening the pinch bolt on the cable. Either a set of locking vice grips or the fourth hand tool are really helpful in this regard, letting you keep good tension on the cable while still having both hands free. (Make sure you give yourself some room to move in both directions with the slack adjuster as well -- you don't want to find that you'd like to be able to back it off but can't because it's right up against the frame already).

If you do ever decide to change outer housings, check out this guide. After trying numerous different types of cables (a very long braided cable from a tandem bicycle, different gauges of braided aircraft cable, fishing line, etc.) what I found actually worked best was weed wacker line thanks to a tip from Timo on the Scooterworks forum -- you have to make sure it's sufficiently small diameter to fit within the housing easily, but it's very strong, cheap to get, and essentially disposable without the hassles of using actual cable.

I ended up changing clutch, gear (for both sides of the gear selector), front, and rear brake cables and replaced all housings, too, with new teflon lined ones. Definitely one of the most sensible pieces of maintenance I've done. The rear brake cable was the most frustrating because I lost an end within the frame, and it literally took hours of trial and error, trial and error, to work it out again. This winter when the engine is dropped I'll get around to the throttle and choke cables, too.

I sincerely hope this resolves your stalling woes!

Cheers,
phaetn

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and help.

I obviously have (had) 2 issues going on here at the sametime and I got a little confused between the two. 1. dying when placed in 1st gear and 2. trouble starting/backfiring.

I've replaced the clutch lever cable (thanks Len) and I still need to tighten the gear selector cables. There seems to be too much play in the gear selector and when I looked into the head set, the gear selector cables didn't have much tension in them at all.

Once I installed the clutch lever cable, the scoot started after a bunch of kicks (5) or so and it would idle on it's own and I was able to ride it around the block with no problems. Once I parked it, and tried to start it, it wouldn't start and it would give me a nice backfire. I did get it to start again, but it wouldn't idle on it's own, I had to hold down the throttle to keep it running. The kill switch wire was loose in the head set, but I cannot re connect it since I don't have the small screw to hold it in place. I had to place electrical tape around it (yeah I know ).

After doing some research and taking advice here, I'm going to try the following:

1. Replace clutch side seal
2. New Flywheel (mine has chips in the fan) or if the chips don't matter then just get it re-magnatized
3. New points (don't have) and 2 wire condensor (already have) or just get a whole new stator plate.
4. New woodruff key
5. New circlip for the flywheel. I tried to remove the flywheel but it will not come off. If I remove the circlip, will the flywheel come off? Any suggestions?
6. This might be a good time to rebuild the carb?

Of course any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. Hey Len, maybe I can get the Sprint in a truck with all the parts and head on over to your garage?

Thanks!

I'm not a techno-guru by any means, but you're welcome to bring it on over and we can see if two heads are better than one. Give me a call...I think I'll be working on my Sprint on Saturday.

Thanks Len! I will let you know once I get some of the parts that I need and I will get it up there. I was wondering if you have a timing light? If not, I will go and pick one up. How far along are you on your Sprint project? I'm free after 2:30 on Saturday so if you need any help let me know. Thanks again!

hi,

I tried to adjust my clutch and notice that there was no lock nut or slack adjuster on my cable. I tried to look for the parts online and couldn't find anything. Does anyone know if the lock nut and slack adjuster are sold at the scooter shop or just at any hardware store.

Also, do I really need the slack adjuster and lock nut to tighten up my cable or can i just pull the cable tight and lock it in place with a vise grip as I tighten the the nipple.

thanks and happy holidays,

collin

The slack adjuster is on the outer cable sleeve at the lower end. If not, it sounds like you may need a new "complete cable" (inner & outer) which you could pick up locally at First Kick Scotters down on 8th street. It's possible to tighten it like you say but cables tend to stretch after a while. This is where your slack adjuster comes into play, plus the nipples can be hard to move around after you've tightened them on the cable. I also had to pull the clutch arm forward a bit on my P200E before tightening the nipple on the cable.

Here's a link on how to replace it. The old outer cable should be taped on the end to the new one in order to pull it through the body. There are some discussions on the this forum you should search to find out how to replace the outer cable
http://www.vespamaintenance.com/body/clcable/index.html

hi,

Thanks for the advice all. I went to first kick and picked up the lock not and slack adjuster for $2.60.

Thanks

collin

Hi All,

I was trying to install the lock nut and slack adjuster today but I wasn't able to remove the nipple on that holds the clutch cable. I removed the nut ontop of the nipple but was unsuccessful removing the nipple. Is there a trick to it? Any pointers please!!!

Thanks

collin

edit .........Sorry if it wasn't your scoot



Music

Music, this is my scoot and it's not Indian or Asian.

However, if you feel like you have something to say, please do and I will gladly shove my foot right into your mouth for good measure.

Please continue...please.

yo, exploited.your bike is bad ass.i can help with the foot insertion.love the frikin gray and red.i been thinking that on the p200 project.that ride on sat was a blast.

Mellow out, it's a small world. Enjoy your ride, hope you can fix it soon.



Music