OP
@urchin avatar
UTC

Member
Stella, Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 31
Location: wpb, fl
 
Member
@urchin avatar
Stella, Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 31
Location: wpb, fl
UTC quote
I'm sure this is more straightforward than it seems - but there are a few 'stuck' bits on the rally I haven't been able to figure out how to remove.

1. The mudguard - ummm does it go down or up? How do you get it over that weird cast piece?

2. The reflector inside the tuna can taillight. This just seems like it could be permanently affixed.

3. The rear shock. It just seems to spin?

4. Lastly, I haven't removed anything that is riveted (ie the name badges). How do you remove them so that they can be reused. My badges are in decent shape and I'd like to keep them.

Thanks all for the help - off to paint as soon as I get these last bits off.
@christos_x avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
No Scooter no more...
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1611
Location: Brighton, England
 
Molto Verboso
@christos_x avatar
No Scooter no more...
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1611
Location: Brighton, England
UTC quote
Re: removing the mudguard?
urchin wrote:
I'm sure this is more straightforward than it seems - but there are a few 'stuck' bits on the rally I haven't been able to figure out how to remove.

1. The mudguard - ummm does it go down or up? How do you get it over that weird cast piece?

2. The reflector inside the tuna can taillight. This just seems like it could be permanently affixed.

3. The rear shock. It just seems to spin?

4. Lastly, I haven't removed anything that is riveted (ie the name badges). How do you remove them so that they can be reused. My badges are in decent shape and I'd like to keep them.

Thanks all for the help - off to paint as soon as I get these last bits off.
1. The mudguard goes up, but you have to drop the forks and steering column and take off the headset (top and bottom) to do this...PITA just to replace the mudguard

2. dont know dont have one of those

3. Not sure what you mean buy 'just spin' you should have a bottom shock bolt that you need to take out as well as the top bolt that attaches it to the frame.

4. Drill them out or use a dremmel (i dont have one of those) from the back of the rivet.

5. Buy a Haynes manual
OP
@urchin avatar
UTC

Member
Stella, Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 31
Location: wpb, fl
 
Member
@urchin avatar
Stella, Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 31
Location: wpb, fl
UTC quote
I'm repainting, so the whole think has to come apart. I've dropped the fork and all that's left is a two pronged cast aluminum piece that I can't seem to navigate around. I have the Haynes manual, but I didn't see a description about how it slides off. I feel like it's one of those puzzles with the two pieces of wire you have to separate.

If I use a dremel to cut the rivet then how do they mount the next time? Now the pin would be too short??

Thanks-
@christos_x avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
No Scooter no more...
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1611
Location: Brighton, England
 
Molto Verboso
@christos_x avatar
No Scooter no more...
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1611
Location: Brighton, England
UTC quote
urchin wrote:
I'm repainting, so the whole think has to come apart. I've dropped the fork and all that's left is a two pronged cast aluminum piece that I can't seem to navigate around. I have the Haynes manual, but I didn't see a description about how it slides off. I feel like it's one of those puzzles with the two pieces of wire you have to separate.

If I use a dremel to cut the rivet then how do they mount the next time? Now the pin would be too short??

Thanks-
mmm... not sure where this 2 pronged piece is of which you speak which scoot are you doing this to? i've never seen a stella.

the rally should be the same as a P series IFAIK and I don't have a 2 pronged ali bit on my p2. when i drop the column my mudguard slips off up the column no probs.
If you have the same Haynes as me you will find diagrams on page 85 & 88.

The badges may be riveted on or may have badge clips at the back which attach to the 2 prongs that come off the back of the badge. If there are riveted you have to drill them from the backside of the legshield / side panels and re pop rivet them back on. If they have badge clips you can prize them off with a small screwdriver but be careful not to snap the badge prong in the process. I've knackerd a few badges in my time by doing this but i stick them back on with blacktac (like blu tack but black and crazy sticky, very difficult to get hold of but is non permanent and will stick anything to anything, within reason)
@rover_eric avatar
UTC

Moderator
1965 Vespa SS180, 1963 Lambretta LI150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6980
Location: Detroit, Michigan
 
Moderator
@rover_eric avatar
1965 Vespa SS180, 1963 Lambretta LI150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6980
Location: Detroit, Michigan
UTC quote
OK...

The 2-pronged thing you're talking about are the steering stops on the fork. They keep it from traveling too far one way or the other.

It's actually pretty easy to rotate it up and around and off the fork - you just have to be persistant, but it WILL rotate off the thing if you try to get one part of the little fork, then the other.

The trouble spot happens for those who leave the lower steering bearing race and dust cup on. The front fender will NOT fit over the dustcup... so you typically need to get a hammer, flathead screwdriver, torch, etc and begin chiselling the thing up and off the fork.
@killo avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
I have a few scooters....
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2225
Location: San Antonio, TX
 
Ossessionato
@killo avatar
I have a few scooters....
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2225
Location: San Antonio, TX
UTC quote
For your name badges, I like to use a small finishing nail to remove them. Put the nail in the center of the retaining pin, and tap lightly and it just pushes it out the other side. You should be able to reuse them if you use this method.
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