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Hello all,

I finaly purchased my 2009 Piaggio 500 MP3. It's red, like the one in the photo to the left. Didn't come with the model...shucks! Crying or Very sad emoticon

Question:
My dealer tells me that the MP3 doesn't have enough power or amps or whatever to run any type of heated grips. I was considering buying grips instead of heated gloves.

Does anyone out there own an MP3 and has successfully installed heated grips on it?

Thanks
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Your dealer is talking utter bollocks out of his arse in slimy dribbles.

Find another dealer for service PDQ!

The 500 is good for at least 15A extra current draw under normal usage conditions. Heated grips take a maximum of 4A, he is a Nincompoop.

I have heated grips, no problem - and with muffs I use summer gloves all year round...
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He is wrong, there are people on here using heated grip with no problem.

At some point I am getting heated grips and heated jacket or vest.

Wayne B
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blaze ask your dealer how much power does the outlet under the seat handle for output 8)
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jimc wrote:
Your dealer is talking utter bollocks out of his arse in slimy dribbles.

Find another dealer for service PDQ!

The 500 is good for at least 15A extra current draw under normal usage conditions. Heated grips take a maximum of 4A, he is a Nincompoop.

I have heated grips, no problem - and with muffs I use summer gloves all year round...
That being said, jimc, which brand/type do you recommend? Is there any discussion on Modern Vespa that you like?
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jimc wrote:
Your dealer is talking utter bollocks out of his arse in slimy dribbles.
First thing in the morning....coffee barely starting to stir my brain to life....go straight to MV.....and this is the visual I will now start my morning with.

Thanks for the prose Jim. Razz emoticon
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I have the Oxford "HeaterZ" grips (7/8") from http://www.lockitt.com/AccessoriesGrips3.htm

Love them. This winter when I open up the machine to install the horn and OEM windscreen, then I'll hide the wiring. Currently, the wires are double taped from the battery to the dash which looks hokey. Combined with the bagster muffs and I am a warm little commuter.

Words of advice on the install...you need to cut/shave/sand the throttle edge to slide the new grip on.
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I recommend the Oxford ones as well - but do make sure they are connected directly to the battery (preferably by an engine-on controlled relay) and not via any other route. The new 'digital' control unit turns off if the volts go below 11.5V even for a millisecond. Or if you can, find some with the older rotary control unit, but beware the 'custom' ones, they are for 1" bars...
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jimc wrote:
I recommend the Oxford ones as well - but do make sure they are connected directly to the battery (preferably by an engine-on controlled relay) and not via any other route. The new 'digital' control unit turns off if the volts go below 11.5V even for a millisecond. Or if you can, find some with the older rotary control unit, but beware the 'custom' ones, they are for 1" bars...
I'm very handy. I'm a plumbing and heating expert by trade. I don't wire the boilers, but I understand the concept.

Question: Do you think that the difficulty level of installing the grips would be easty-somewhat difficult-difficult-OR don't even try; get a professional?
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Way easy! I work at a desk looking at numbers all day and I was able to figure it out.

The only hurdle I hit was that the instructions don't tell you that you may not be able slide the grip over the throttle with out a slight shave. I wasted a decent amount of time trying to wrestle the new grip over the plastic throttle sleeve...I could still be there if I hand not freaked out and pulled a knife out. (Actually, I wasted even more time trying to file down the plastic ridge before resorting to a real blade.)

Go for it. Your hands will thank you...of course in sign language

The only drag is the wiring from the battery to the control. I have a master plan to redirect the power line under the covers when the rains hit.
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From how you describe yourself it'll take about half-an-hour, with most of the time supping strong tea.

OK, longer than that because there are a few plastics to be removed...

It's a doddle as long as you can do the wiring, crimping (or soldering) and relay bits.

To recap - to remove original grips, force a long thin screwdriver between grip and tube, and use WD40 or compressed air feed to free them. Clean WD40 off and any oil spray from the neglected compressor.

On the throttle side, cut away the 'glans' on the end of the throttle tube.

Hair spray works well as the adhesive if you don't fancy superglue. I've not tried it myself but others have repeatedly assured me - they might be pulling my leg.

A 'half-hitch' around the grip on the throttle side cable will help prevent early failure due to mechanical strain.
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8)

jimc

+++++++1 for compressed air when removing and reinstalling the grips.

R.B.
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Is there a thred anywhere on here that shows pictures of what you're talking about?
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jimc wrote:
Hair spray works well as the adhesive if you don't fancy superglue. I've not tried it myself but others have repeatedly assured me - they might be pulling my leg.
No leg pulling there. I have installed 8-10 heated grips on mine and friend's motorcycles and hair spray works well - it works as a lubricant when first sprayed on & then dries sticky.

I haven't done the grips on the wife's 500 yet but after riding 250 miles in 40 degree weather yesterday, she may be ready for it (also some hand guards).

Since I haven't done an MP3 yet (I don't know if this still applies), one thing I do on the left handle bar on motorcycles is to use a length of 1" shrink tubing to insulate the heater element from the metal bar - this helps transfer more heat to the grips and it doesn't get wasted heating the handlebar.

+1 on using compressed air to get the OEM grips off - also a screwdriver to loosen the old glue and a LOT of elbow grease on some of them.
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Good idea with the heatshrink - but the bars do act as a heat reservoir as well.

The other idea I've thought about is using some heat-shrink on the brake levers to stop them feeling quite so freezing when sat at traffic lights - but with muffs this isn't such a huge problem.
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OK, here is a field example - the wife is going on a "Ladies Only" ride tomorrow and was concerned about her hands getting cold again - last weekend was in the 40s.

I was at Cycle Gear in Fort Worth and noticed that they had some KimPex grip heaters in stock. I got them and then made sure that the wife still wanted them on her 500. She did AND wants the hand guards, too, but all we had available today were the heaters...

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I already had a fuse panel in the left cowl from previous mods (see here, my July 6 reply) and knew where the wires would go. Previous experience indicated that the hardest part was getting the grips off and then back on.

I started out using a narrow screwdriver but that and air from my small compressor did not seem to get anywhere.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

However, jimc recommended using WD40 (see above) and I thought I would try that:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Worked like a charm - grip slid off very easily after squirting on opposite sides of the grip. Slick as a whistle!

I wiped the inside of the grips and also the bar/throttle tube and made sure there was no old glue residue or any WD40 either (that stuff evaporates fairly quickly in film form).

On the left, non throttle side (can't call it the "clutch" side ), I added some one inch diameter heat shrink tubing. Here it is unshrunk

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

and after it has been shrunk:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I was a little sloppy on this - I usually get it flush with the bar end but I missed this time. (don't tell the wife!)

The heating elements have adhesive on the back but I added two strips of electrical tape to help keep the edge in place.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

The wires come out the front and are routed into the existing handlebar wire bundle. There is a rubber chollar inside the cowl that I fed the heater wires through.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Same thing on the throttle side but you have an additional issue to address - the throttle sleeve moves as you accelerate/decelerate the scoot and you have to allow more wire play so the wires do not bind or "catch".

idle position:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

wide open position:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

When you are ready to put the grips back on, make sure you get the right one on the right side - notice that the throttle grip has a larger inside diameter. You will drive yourself crazy trying to get the non-throttle grip onto the throttle side!

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I went and bummed some of the wife's hairspray & sprayed the inside of the grip and some on the surface that it will be slinding onto.

The grips did not go on as easily as they had come off - they slid about half way and then stopped - they weren't "locked", however, and I was able to wiggle them on up to where they should be.

After feeding the heater wires into the cowl area, I connected the switch and also the power source, which is the fuse panel and a new 10 amp fuse. KimPex doesn't even mention a fuse, much less a size recommendation. Oh well.

The only issue I had was finding a good ground. I should have set up a ground block like the fuse panel when I did that. But I didn't and ended up tapping the ground from one of the headlight wires.

I grabbed the wife so that she could approve the 1/2 inch diameter hole I was about to drill thru her precious instrument panel, and ended up with a convenient spot that was visible under the handlebar and didn't have any obstructions behind it.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

It's a little hard to see but the bottom of the switch is just above the fuse panel:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I did a quick test to make sure that the heaters actually heated up and the wife told me that the scooter needed gas before her trip tomorrow, so I headed out for a test ride.

I was concerned that I was not feeling any heat thru my gloves when I noticed that the switch was on "low" instead of high. It still took a bit of time for the heat to spread to where I could feel it. I think it helped that the scoot was actually moving rather than just idling on the patio.

On high, I could feel the heat after a mile or two. However, the throttle side was hotter than the left side. I read that these were actually ATV grips where the bars are the same on both sides - they use a different throttle mechanism. Apparently, there was still not enough insulation for the left side heating element.

So, if I was planning ahead for the next time, I would probably go with the Symtec grips - they actually have two different elements for the two sides.

That's it - we'll see how well they work after her trip tomorrow...
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Stupid question..but why would the two sides vary in heat that you feel with the ATV designed heaters?
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smrf wrote:
Stupid question..but why would the two sides vary in heat that you feel with the ATV designed heaters?
The insulation is different - the throttle side is isolated from the handlebar by the rotating throttle assembly. The heating element on the other side sits right on the handle bar with just the heat shrink tubing added for insulation. This allows more heat to be conducted into the handlebar and wasted via radiation elsewhere. So, the left side gets less energy transmitted to the hands...
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I can say that in reality it makes very little difference, honest! I've done many heated grip installations, and have never had an issue with the LHS being slower to heat up. But I've always only used Oxford grips - they are quite thick and may have more rubber underneath the elements than some other makes.
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Is 7/8" the same for the 250's? And when they talk about the size, is that an inside or outside diameter, jus wondering??
ScooterMeister wrote:
I have the Oxford "HeaterZ" grips (7/8") from http://www.lockitt.com/AccessoriesGrips3.htm.
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7/8" (or metric equivalent!) is the standard bar size for nearly all bikes. Except for ATVs and Harleys, which are 1" allegedly.
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smrf wrote:
Is 7/8" the same for the 250's? And when they talk about the size, is that an inside or outside diameter, jus wondering??
ScooterMeister wrote:
I have the Oxford "HeaterZ" grips (7/8") from http://www.lockitt.com/AccessoriesGrips3.htm.
Should be the same. The 7/8" is the outside diameter for the bars and inside diameter for the grips.

I haven't run into anything other than 7/8ths but like jimc says, allegedly there are some in 1"...
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8)

Gilk51

I have the same grip heaters on both the 250 and my 400. They really work very well. Where did you put the resistor? The resistor gets real hot when in use. I tie raped it to a metal cross bar and use the metal as a heat sink.

R.B.
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reno bob wrote:
I have the same grip heaters on both the 250 and my 400. They really work very well. Where did you put the resistor? The resistor gets real hot when in use. I tie raped it to a metal cross bar and use the metal as a heat sink.
I didn't think about that since I expected the wife to always have them set on "high". Right now it is just hanging with the excess wire. That sounds like what I should do the next time I get into the cowl again...

She just returned and said that there is definitely a deifference between the two sides. RB, do you have that same effect? I didn't bother to see whether there was a difference in resistance between the two heater elements.
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and why is there a heat difference between the two sides?
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Do the Oxford Heaterz Heated Grips 7/8" come with a veritable heat controller? Can not tell by description, Just says "New waterproof and vibration resistant Electronic heat controller"

Thanks
Wayne B
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8)

Gilk51

There seems to be a little difference in heat output when I first turn them on. I rode to the store today and when I parked I took off my gloves and checked each side and they felt the same. The throttle side is a little warmer at first but it seems to even out.

R.B.
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Hello WayneB
Yes, the Oxford's have a variable control. I posted a photo at:

https://modernvespa.com/forum/topic34258?highlight=oxford
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jimc wrote:
Your dealer is talking utter bollocks out of his arse in slimy dribbles.

Find another dealer for service PDQ!

The 500 is good for at least 15A extra current draw under normal usage conditions. Heated grips take a maximum of 4A, he is a Nincompoop.

I have heated grips, no problem - and with muffs I use summer gloves all year round...
Super explanation of the dealer ++++++ Laughing emoticon
I am using heatet grips from Saito 2. here is the link http://www.getgeared.co.uk/SAITO_Motorcycle_Heated_Grips_Set_2
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I also have the Oxford "HeaterZ" grips (7/8") and they are excellent. Easy to install and make a difference of night versus day in regard to how long a comfortable ride (commute) can be in the winter. All I need now are some hand guards that block the wind from the front and I will be set!
⬆️    About 1 month elapsed    ⬇️
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UTC quote
Connectioin direct to the battery
I have a Fuoco, and got the Oxford Heaterz grip heaters as mentioned in this thread. The problem I get is that I don't know where to connect them. They must be connected directly to the battery (a regulated circuit, like the lights circuit does not work)

As a first attempt I connected the HeaterZ to the lights (and put a fuse of higher capacity) but this is a regulated circuit, which means that the fuoco maintains a constant current of 12Volts there and the HearterZ control needs 14Volts in order to operate (this means that the bike must be charging the battery)

The question is, do you know where to connect the grips without having to dismount half the bike in order to reach a direct battery connection? I would like to go to the elefantentreffen this year and, without heater grips, it is a suicide
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The lights circuit is NOT regulated to 12V. However the volts drop across it when the lights are on and the battery is just at 12V will cause the new <spit> Oxford controller to drop out.

I use an extra relay, controlling a fused wire direct from the battery, and controlled by the o/p of the light relay.

To get an extra wire directly from the battery you'll need to remove the seat and the tunnel. From there you can get a wire to the left-hand footwell access panel, and then it is easy to feed up into the front fairing.

The Oxford controller can either be placed at one side, or more conveniently onto the central Gilera badge in the middle of the bars with some double-sided foam - which I believe is included in the kit.

If you can, obtain one of the older style controllers, far better!
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Today I put my Oxford heat grip on a separate relay as I rerouted the wires underneath the panels.

Unfortunately, now they won't work. When I try to turn on the grips right after firing up the scooter, the light flashed 5 times and then turns off. This happened all the time previously, as the scooter had to be moving for a few minutes to get the power up then they would work.

Now after riding for about 15 minutes and trying to turn the grips on, the light comes on solid (as if it should work) but turns off after about 3 seconds.

Any trouble shooting thoughts?
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Check the grounding to the frame. Then check the volts actually feeding the controller - if above 12V and the controller still refuses to play then get it replaced under the Oxford warranty. I've know up to 4 of the new-style controllers fail in succession - so try to get one of the original type if possible.
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Thanks Jim. As they say in the States, "you the man."
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