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For about $10 (USA), and an hour of your time, you can wire a professional-grade 12V accessory outlet into your modern Vespa.

Radio Shack sells a fused accessory outlet (RS 270-1556) for $6.99. You'll need a place to mount your accessory outlet. On my ET4, I choose to mount it on the right-hand-side black panel, that's just above the glove box (see photo). I choose this location because it's within sight when you're sitting on the scooter, it's near the handlebars, the panel is removable by undoing a single screw, and (most importantly) there is at least 2" depth behind the panel. The accessory outlet is about 2" long. You'll also need to bore a 1 1/8" hole for the accessory outlet.

The outlet comes with about 2ft of attached wire, but you'll need to extend the red wire by about 4ft to reach the battery. You can either ground the black wire to the scooter's frame, or run it back to the battery (not necessary). To run the wires, you'll need to remove some panels (an easy job). I oriented the wires such that the fuse assembly sits immediately behind the black panel, facilitating easy future fuse replacement. I ran the red wire in the wiring harness channel (you'll see the channel, once you remove the panels), into the battery compartment, and connected it to the positive battery terminal.

If you need to convert any of your 12V accessories to use a matching plug, Radio Shack sells one that has its own 7.5A fuse and power LED for $3.99 (RS 270-1509).

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very interesting...do you have any pics of the panels being removed?

Also, what does the plug look like? Is it similar to BMW motorcycles power outlet?
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Sorry, I didn't take any photos related to removing panels.
The Radio Shack plug and socket are of the standard automotive type.
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I was thinking of doing something similar, but inside the glovebox. That way it would be out of sight, and not damage an exterior panel (the LX doesn't have a removeable panel like yours.) I was also thinking of hooking it up as a switched power outlet.
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12v outlet.
That looks very nice. You say you ran the red wire to the battery. Were their no other wires to run? Thanks in advance, Beale.
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Re: 12v outlet.
Beale wrote:
That looks very nice. You say you ran the red wire to the battery. Were their no other wires to run? Thanks in advance, Beale.
There are two wires total. There's a black wire (battery ground) and a red wire (battery positive). The outlet comes with about 2ft of attached wire, but you'll need to extend the red wire by about 4ft to reach the battery. You can either secure the black wire to the scooter's frame, or run it back to the battery's negative terminal.
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Is the knee panel pretty much waterproof on the inside? I've never taken mine off to see if water could get inside. That said could you mount a small fuse panel there for all the other items that will be installed?...GPS, IPODS, Cameras.... You then just need to run the 2 wires back to the battery.
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Cant you use the intercom plug for the power
Instead of running a wire to the battery, I believe you can tap off the intercom plug that isn't used under one of the small panels above the glovebox. I could be wrong on this, but believe it's true.
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Just want to make sure people are fusing to protect the wire. Fuses, protect the wire.

Also if you tap your accessory outlet to a smaller (larger number guage wire), take that into account for your fusing. When you over load a wire by drawing more amperage than it is designed for, it heats up and starts the fire, thus you fuse to protect the wire.

Okay, that was a PSA. We now return to your regual programming.
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Maybe Curt can add his opinion
I just read the camera mount thread, and it appears that he came off the intercom wire. Hopefully Curt can chime in if he had to a dd a fuse or anything else.
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You can grab 12V from just about anywhere in the scooter, but realize what you're doing in the process. If you run a wire back to the battery, you have the potential to tap the scooter's full-current capacity. If you grab 12V from anywhere else, you're limited to the capacity of drop. Radio Shack sells a fused accessory outlet (RS 270-1556) for $6.99. It even comes with a 10A fuse. I recommend you replace the supplied 10A fuse with something more appropriate to your load though.
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addicted wrote:
I recommend you replace the supplied 10A fuse with something more appropriate to your load though.
Just to add my two cents, in most cases you'd be replacing it with a much smaller fuse. 10 amps is a lot.
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[quote="jess"]
addicted wrote:
Just to add my two cents, in most cases you'd be replacing it with a much smaller fuse. 10 amps is a lot.
Agreed. Again, fuse for the wire. That is electric code for Industrial Control, housing, commericial.. etc.

An ideal ciruit will draw the amperage it needs. Say the GPS uses .3 AMP, if working correctly (minus loss from resistance) it will be pulling .3 AMP. If the GPS shorts out, then it will pull as much as possible. So if you have say 22 gauage wire, and it's trying to pull 10 AMPs, you'll have a fire.

You could fuse for the GPS as well, but remember first and foremost, fuse to protect the wire. The scooter cost more.
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12 volt receptacle
No scooter yet...but planning to get an LX 150 in near future and have been "reading the mail"...

A thought on wiring these sorts of thing to you battery....having done this many times for ham radios in the car, goodies on my sailboat, etc...

It is best if you put the fuse on the positive line(red) as close as possible to the battery! Never fuse it on the ground line side, as that would pull all the current through your whole wiring system in the event that you shorted out the system.

If the fuse is at the battery, then if the system shorts out somehow, it will break the connection at the battery, rather than some distance away from the battery. If the short is 3 feet away on the red wire, but at a place before the location of your fuse, the fuse would be useless, you will pull major current through that piece of wire, and you could melt and burn a lot of stuff between the short and the battery along that run of unfused red wire.

I hope this makes sense....and may help keep you out of an electrical problem.
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As an add on question... how well can the LX150 handle whatever accessories you would add using the 12V outlet? I'm talking the typical, GPS, Radio or more substantial the heated gloves, vest..... My previous Nighthawk 750 had a tough time handling the extra drain from the heated clothing.....

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gliderguynj wrote:
As an add on question... how well can the LX150 handle whatever accessories you would add using the 12V outlet? I'm talking the typical, GPS, Radio or more substantial the heated gloves, vest..... My previous Nighthawk 750 had a tough time handling the extra drain from the heated clothing.....

Doug
I've been running my electric vest on the ET4 for several weeks now, without any problem. If you haven't done so yet, you can read my assessment of the situation here:
Some actual (measured) information on heated clothing, etc.
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12V DC Outlet
Thanks for posting how you installed your 12V DC outlet. I installed mine today and everything seems to work fine. The only thing I was not sure about was if I ran the wiring correctly from the battery to the outlet. I ran it thru the floor board and then up to the thru a couple of holes I reamed out. I tried to remove panels like you mentioned, but was not apparent to me how to do this.

So far, the wiring is hidden.

Thanks again,

Kin
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Welcome to the forum kyhui. In the future, contact me if you have a question or problem. I would have gladly hand-drawn you an illustration of the panel removal procedure. You can buy grommets at a hardware store, to dress and seal the holes you reamed. A grommet is a rubber washer, with a hole in the middle. You install the grommet in the holes you reamed, then pass the wire through the hole in the grommet. It makes for a clean installation, and protects the wire from chafing.
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Great idea on the rubber grommets; I will do that. I would appreciate your illustrations on removing the panels since there are a couple more mods I want to add, such as GPS and speakers.

I am more interested in which of the floor board channels you ran your wiring thru. I ran it on the far right channel under the floor board. It was the only one I could see to run my wire coat hanger thru so I chose it. However, it is more exposed to the elements than the two channels in the middle. There are lots of sharp metal edges near the right channel.

Thanks again,

Kin
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Okay Kin. I'll make a diagram for you. In the meantime, here's a simple description of removing panels on your ET.

Vespa ET-Specific Panel Removal Instruction:
*Pry-off Piaggio badge from horn cover, using the screwdriver slot on the badge's right side. Don't press inward with the screwdriver. Just insert the screwdriver into the slot and then lever the screwdriver downward. The badge will pop upward.
*Unscrew the now exposed horn cover screw, and remove horn cover
*Unscrew 2 screws under horn cover, securing glove box tray
*Open glove box door, and unscrew 3 screws securing glove box tray
*Lift, and wiggle-out, glove box tray from front cowl. May require pressing-down glove box release as you wiggle the glove box
*Peel off the rubber floorboard mats, to expose the floorboard screws. Remove the floorboard screws, and lift-out the floorboard panel

You'll see a channel in the center of the floor-pan, once you remove the floorboard panel. You'll also see that the ET's wiring harness, and other cables, are already routed through this channel.
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Okay Kin. I'll make a diagram for you. In the meantime, here's a simple description of removing panels on your ET.

Vespa ET-Specific Panel Removal Instruction:
*Pry-off Piaggio badge from horn cover, using the screwdriver slot on the badge's right side. Don't press inward with the screwdriver. Just insert the screwdriver into the slot and then lever the screwdriver downward. The badge will pop upward.
*Unscrew the now exposed horn cover screw, and remove horn cover
*Unscrew 2 screws under horn cover, securing glove box tray
*Open glove box door, and unscrew 3 screws securing glove box tray
*Lift, and wiggle-out, glove box tray from front cowl. May require pressing-down glove box release as you wiggle the glove box
*Peel off the rubber floorboard mats, to expose the floorboard screws. Remove the floorboard screws, and lift-out the floorboard panel

You'll see a channel in the center of the floor-pan, once you remove the floorboard panel. You'll also see that the ET's wiring harness, and other cables, are already routed through this channel.
ET Floor-Pan Screws
ET Floor-Pan Screws
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addicted wrote:
*Pry-off Piaggio badge from horn cover, using the screwdriver slot on the badge's right side.
Just for clarification, the bike's right, or your right (as you face it)?

Great sketch, by the way. Out of curiosity, what does DBA stand for?
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Hi mongoose,

Thanks for the compliment on my refrigerator art work. You're never too old to enjoy childhood art. I'm speaking of my right, as I face the badge in front of me. DBA is a legal term, meaning "doing business as". In this case, I'm doing business as addicted.

Hey, did you happen to look closely in the 150 LEADER engine valve lash adjustment bulletin lately? If not, go take a look...
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Yes, I saw that the other day. Thanks for the inclusion and credit in your tech article.
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This electrical thingy could be good for a warmer for my hedgehog. I think though after 5 minutes of riding she would be stuck in the glove box for good. The underseat area gets warm too. Hmmm I wonder why they have a sticker there that says "No Pets"
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NealAustin wrote:
This electrical thingy could be good for a warmer for my hedgehog. I think though after 5 minutes of riding she would be stuck in the glove box for good. The underseat area gets warm too. Hmmm I wonder why they have a sticker there that says "No Pets"
You do know that every warning label that makes you say, "Well, duh!" is put there because - prior to the label - some fidiot with no common sense did precisely what it says not to do, and faced certain injury or death and then tried to make financial gain from the company. Besides, it sounds like Mecki needs more lovin' before going scooting.
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I think so too.
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NealAustin wrote:
Hmmm I wonder why they have a sticker there that says "No Pets"
From my photo gallery...

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Great shots Steve!
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That is a cute dog!

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Thanks guys. I figured everyone had seen that one before. Here's "the rest of the story..." at the very bottom of the page.

http://www.vespaquest.com/2005/10/index.html
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You get more mileage out of that dog, Steve. And it wasn't even your dog.
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You bastard Steve
Just joking... Laughing emoticon
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jess wrote:
You get more mileage out of that dog, Steve. And it wasn't even your dog.
That's why I figured everyone had seen it.

I did the same thing on all the Subaru boards when I got the WRX. I posted photos of my two toys together and called them Beauty and the Beast. I posted it on so many boards, I couldn't remember which ones I had and hadn't. On top of that, many members were on multiple boards, so they'd all seen it multiple times. I got a PM from one guy simply containing "Enough with Beauty and the Beast!"

Wanna see it?

http:nah.ive.hijacked.this.thread.enough
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