Modern Vespa

I took a few pictures while getting my rear tire off for a change last week. Thought seeing some pictures might help some who are considering. Tools needed are metric allen wrenches, metric sockets and a phillips screw driver.

Removing the parking brake after taking the wheel nut off helps hold the wheel to turn the nut.

Don't squeeze the brake lever when it is off. It is difficult to get the pads to open up all the way for putting back over the disk. (Maybe there is a trick too it but I struggled with this first time.)

As someone else said keep track of which bolts go where. Twice I have installed the wrong bolt then later ended up with one too short. Both some of the allen head and regular head are the same thread and can go in the wrong spot. This was my third time and each one gets easier and has saved about $40 in labor each time.


Muffler Removed.

Rear brake disconnected, sliding off disk.

Close up of nut on rear wheel.

Brake removed, bolt out of bottom of rear shock.

Parking brake removed

Support bracket removed.

Rear tire off.

Great post and pics Fuzzy! Couple this with the one I did for putting it back on and we have the whole show now. http://www.modernvespa.com/forum/topic35390?highlight=rear+tire+change

I would add to be very careful when sliding the muffler off to protect the bushing. It is a cheap part but a pain if you don't have one on hand.

Zinfan added this to my post and may be helpful here at the beginning. PS What tire did you put on?

The new one is a Michelin Gold Standard in 130/70-12 size. After 5,000 miles total on two 140/70-12 tires I can tell an improvement in power and top speed.

Just clocked in about 9400 miles yesterday so front tires will be a reality soon. What do we have in 12X70 12? Couldn't find this size on the Michelin web site so where should I look for them. Plus, when and if I get the front tires, can I pull both of them out at the same time to have them changed, or do I have to do one at a time? Or, is there a good spot underneath strong enough to place a jack under the scooter while both tires are off?

I use a lift like this:
http://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/productinfo/TRE4101/Workshop/Bike-Lifts/Big-Red-Jacks

If the two V-pads are unscrewed and removed, then the two posts can support the frame each side of the tank. Just be careful you get the frame tubes and not a coolant hose.

Then both wheels/suspensions can be worked on at once. A couple of bottle-jacks will do the same job, but it's a bit un-nerving jacking up a bit at a time on each side.

No TRE4101s here in the states, it seems, but I found these:






Last edited by ramblerdan on Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:49:00 +0000; edited 5 times

Thanks for the quick response guys; how about a website for that US product Ramblerdan?

Last edited by emptynest on Mon, 16 Feb 2009 20:52:02 +0000; edited 1 time

Heck, I just saw that 888# on the jack....

Just click on the photos!

Got it... Thanks...

As for which tires on the front, my originals that went 10000 miles were Michelin Pilot Sport tires which are available in 120/70-12 size. UFO likes the Continental Zippy 1. I went with Pirelli GTS 23 just because my local motorcycle shop could get them and several members report good results with the Pirelli tires. With the original fronts lasting through more than 4 rear tires I couldn't get excited about tire life and just want a good ride. 700 miles on the Pirelli tires and I am happy so far. It will take another 9 months to have a wear comparison for the front tires. UFO is the only one I know of who has changed front tires more than one time.

Thanks for the info Fuzzy.

Another big thank you to eveybody who is documenting these processes...

Ramblerdan, I saw those jacks in Sears of all places...No, I didn't buy them, I broke down and had my dealer change the tires..Tomorrow I have an appointment to change the rollers and belt with 12,500 miles on the clock.

That's good 2 know..I just hit 70000 miles and am still running my original rear tyre..

??????...?????

lol ufo fell off the wagon again.

Just got back from the dealer after having my new belt and rollers installed. The ones taken off looked like they could have gone a lot longer, but why take a chance....Miles: 12,500

How many bridges have you sold this week?

Hey, Fuzzy

Great details, btw.

So did you have to replace the gasket for the exhaust pipe? If you didn't, have you noticed the exhaust noise being louder than before?

I read a thread about failure of the gasket and bought one to have. I never replaced mine and it was still sealing fine when I put the Leo Vince on. The Leo Vince does not have a gasket. 7 tire changes before the Leo Vince.

I just hope my mechanic remove the whole thing from the header; if not, change the gasket. He is new at this and was warned first. Man, I might end up having to get that gasket from you, Fuzzy, if you're not using it?

LV is good like that, without needing a gasket.

Probably a different size on 250. Just to be clear what I have is a sleeve that is clamped over the pipe that the muffler mounts to. Not a gasket at the header. That is not normally removed in tire change or for any routine service I know of. If it is a problem definitely warranty issue.

That's right, probably a different size on the 250 and won't fit the 500, the sleeve, that is.
You have a great Sunday! I gotta go do a side job to pay for the scooter...

At least you will get paid. I have to mow the grass after being gone 10 days. I can't ride my new 400 until I get insurance set up and they are not open today. I really can't complain as it was a fantastic 10 days of family work and play with the play including 900 miles in the Ozarks on my 250. Hope you get your ride back fast. Withdrawal symptoms can be tough.

Yes, hope I get my ride back soon! Life sucks w/o my MP3.

First of all, thank you to Fuzzy and Stickyfrog for taking the photos and posting here.

I recently posted elsewhere on the board my experience with the rear tire and how the dealer in Toronto Canada quoted me $350 to replace said rear tire. I decided to do it myself using the shop manual and the photos that Fuzzy and stickyfrog posted.

By doing part of the work myself, my total cost to replace the tire was Canadian $95.13 (cost of the City Grip tire + mounting and balancing it). So I saved around $200... the dealer here in Toronto is crazy expensive.

I would like to add the following things that I noticed as I was doing the work:






REMOVING the MUFFLER

There is a gasket for the exhaust pipe (on the inside, see photo above) that can be re-used as long as it is not damaged when removing the muffler. As already said by others, sliding the muffler off CAREFULLY is the best way to protect the gasket. Do not yank it to side to side. The gasket seems to be just like the one in motorcycle exhausts - based on my experience these gaskets last a long time as long as the removal and installation is done carefully.

The big bolt on the photo above is a 17mm

I put the muffler on my bath scale:
15.3 pounds = 6.93 kilograms









REMOVING THE CENTER NUT
WIth this setup, it was a piece of cake:


A breaker bar and the scooter is on the floor, not on the stand. It can be done differently, using the center stand, but I loosen the nut as shown, so the weight of the scooter helps to keep things steady. I guess it depends on your preference. NOTE: The breaker bar is great for loossening, not so much for tightening. You should torque the nut to spec when putting the wheel back.

Please note the plastic wrapped around the pipe. I had once a bad experience with a bolt going inside a exhaust system of a motorcycle, and I wasted 20 minutes getting it out. Since then, as soon as I remove part of the exhasut system and there is a pipe exposed, I like to wrapp plastic (or a plastic bag) around it, just in case...

Last but not least, take care of your screws and threads. Everything (yes, everything) goes back on easily. Do not force anything. As stickyfrog said on How I reinstalled the rear wheel on my 250 , the best way is to screw the bolts you take out back into their respective holes, so you do not mix them up.

Zinfan wrote that you do not need to remove the rear shock. I did.
So, as a final comment - There are three areas where you may have to be careful when installing the wheel back:



1.- The rear shock - If you do remove it, just make sure the hole is aligned. Do not force the bolt. It is a 17mm and if it is not properly done, it can damage the thread big time. To align the whole thing, just wiggle the shock absorber carefully, or push up or down a little bit.
2.- The center nut - be careful with the order of the 2 spacers (ring and conical). Really, you can't mix them up that easily, but still pay attention to the order. You may need to screw the nut a little bit (without the outer spacer, the one that has the shape of a ring)) to "seat" the wheel down properly.
3.- The hex screws: These two screws have 2 washers each. Make sure the screws are properly centered. Do not tighten them until they are centered, or you maye damage the washers, or the bracket. Again, just wiggle gently the support bracket to make sure the holes are aligned.

Have fun wrenching!


Marcos

Glad it was a help to you and thanks for your additions. We really should do a wiki for this using info from these threads. Maybe you would like the challenge? Here is an example of simple one I did for windshields. MP3: Installing a Fabbri Windscreen 250 and 400 models

If you click edit you can see the BBCode used to format it. Here is a link to BBCode info if you are not familiar http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BBCode

If you get the initial wiki started you would have help from others here (me included) with corrections or suggestions.

If you do want to give it a go don't forget to link it back here MP3 250 and here MP3 400 since I believe the procedure for rear wheel tire change is the same on both.

Also, I am sure any of the moderators can give pointers. Forgot who the wiki moderators are.

ramblerdan jack TR #####, does not work for the scooter out of the box! The heavy jack "Y brackets", are to wide! About three inches, this would dig into the plastic fuel tank. 7/8" solid bare with some grinding for a "V form" could be one option; or 1/2 " pipe nipples with some modifications on the end. (could be 3/4 pipe, id ) Recieved mine today, and working on the mod. Thinking a 1" pipe cut in half for top of nipples for support.

Is there any difference to changing the rear on the 500? The wife's scoot is in need of a replacement. No, I haven't checked the shop manual yet, but figured it will be similar.

Yes, I plan to take pictures...

Thanks for the tip, G03. Looking forward to your report.

Ok, here is the low down on the jack. Spent three hours making a saddle brace for the mp3. No matter where the stand is under the gas tank, it only lifts the front wheels. My simple board for under the front shocks does the same thing. My 2 cents, no use for the jack at this time. Here are the photos of making the saddle pieces. Used 1/2' pipe nipples, and cut a coupling in half. Used one inch pipe nipple to cut in half for saddles.










before squeezing saddle flatter

1 inch cut pipe bent on same pipe



two y stocks, and my homemade

under scooter

You want to lift the whole bike, you need something like this with those brackets adapted to it.
http://www.discountramps.com/mcImages/BW0101-motorcycle-jack-1.jpg

I have one from my ATVing days. Need to adapt it to the MP3 or sell it.

Quick question, does the Center Bolt in the rear wheel use standard threading or is reverse?

Thanks


center bolt

Standard thread. righty tighty, lefty loosey

I realize that I'm resurrecting an old thread here, and if thread necromancy is a crime then I plead guilty.

But there are threads that deserved to get an occasional "bump", and this is most definitely one of them. The information here belongs in the wiki.

I spent the morning removing my rear wheel with help from the pictorials of Fuzzy and stickyfrog.

I then spent a few hours driving around trying to find a service station that could put the new tire on my rim.

As luck would have it, it turns out that no such place exists in my part of South Carolina that is open on Sunday.

So I thought "OK, I'll just have to drive the car for the next day or two". Nope. Wife has doctor's appointments, so she needs the car.

So I spent the rest of the afternoon putting the wheel back on with the old tire still intact.

Thanks to all for the invaluable information. I learned more things about my scooter during the process, and next time it will be easier.

Not complaining... Was nice to spend the time with the scoot, even if it was only in the driveway.

yeah finding any mechanic on a Sunday is tough.

Welp.

Might've screwed up bad. Bottom bolt for the parking brake won't tighten. Everything went together just fine last time, but now that bottom bolt is acting like the female end of the bracket is stripped.

Will try again when I have some daylight, but pretty sure it's hosed.

Edit:
The bolt still wouldn't snug as well as it should, but a little bit of loc-tite on it seemed to do the trick. It's now made a couple of trips to work and back along with some other minor tooling around, with no signs of loosening. Will continue checking it before and after each ride for awhile.

Last edited by jw_fox on Thu, 24 Mar 2011 23:17:11 +0000; edited 1 time

Remember there is a new graphite collar (gasket/bushing) and clamp for the exhaust pipe:

Exhaust graphite collar

Thanks to sushiman007 for the article.

My collar cracked shortly after a dealer replaced my rear tire. Dealer did not know about the new parts.