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Is the oil filter for the 250 and 300 the same ?

I have a 300 and would like to do my first oil change. Anys suggestions on how to remove it ... do i have to buy a special oil filter tool ?

Any suggestions would be welcome...

thx,
Hp
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Jettin makes a combined oil filter/drain plug wrench.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
http://www.jettin.com/jettinTools.htm


While Oopsclunkthud offers these snowflake oil filter tools
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

http://oopsclunkthud.com/

Edit: For the first service (1000kms) let the dealer do ; they're supposed to go over the scooter & make sure it's properly adjusted.
Regards
Harvey
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Hi Harvey... thanks for the heads up... you ride a 300 ? i saw a flilter with a different type of head .. dont have a pic with me now but it looked like you needed a different type of oil filter tool...
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The ones in the oops clunk thud pics are the two types of filters out there. There are tons of different tools out there. Most shops have developed their own system. They all seem to work well. Here are two more:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
OP
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Motorsport Scooters wrote:
The ones in the oops clunk thud pics are the two types of filters out there. There are tons of different tools out there. Most shops have developed their own system. They all seem to work well. Here are two more:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
I like the one in the second pic... will that work on the original filter that comes with the 300 ? If so i'll order one in the morning..

thx, Hp
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Here's my method

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

edit-- And I just hand tighten it when putting on the new one.
OP
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Mesmer wrote:
Here's my method

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

edit-- And I just hand tighten it when putting on the new one.
I have that exact tool...i'm just afraid that the factory did not tighten the filter on the scoot by hand .. i normally hand tighten too...
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kdude wrote:
I like the one in the second pic... will that work on the original filter that comes with the 300 ? If so i'll order one in the morning..

thx, Hp
Yes, the original ones have the slotted heads....

http://www.scooterwest.com/item_detail/Oil-Filter-Socket-Tool/2373/
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Some filters use this tool: http://www.scooterwest.com/item_detail/Oil-Filter-Socket-Tool/2373/

Others use the tool that was posted by another member above.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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kdude wrote:
Mesmer wrote:
Here's my method

edit-- And I just hand tighten it when putting on the new one.
I have that exact tool...i'm just afraid that the factory did not tighten the filter on the scoot by hand .. i normally hand tighten too...
If you do your own oil and filter changes, you'll be glad you only tightened it by hand when trying to remove it the next time.
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I trust the OopsClunkThud Snowflake... Most people I know do too.

Really is a well designed tool that just plain works right.
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Mesmer wrote:
Here's my method

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

edit-- And I just hand tighten it when putting on the new one.
+1

This works for me too or just twist it off with hand.
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or you could smash a scredriver through the guts of it and turn it that way
this can be a bit messy though
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TheO.Z. wrote:
I trust the OopsClunkThud Snowflake... Most people I know do too.

Really is a well designed tool that just plain works right.
And in a pinch you can sharpen the ends and use it as a throwing star.

Wayne B
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I like this type. It has a rubber strap and is pretty much infinitely adjustable. Got a set of two at Auto Zone for about eight bucks.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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TheO.Z. wrote:
I trust the OopsClunkThud Snowflake... Most people I know do too.

Really is a well designed tool that just plain works right.
My only question is about leverage. If someone put the filter on too tight to begin with how would this snowflake be more effective than the other tools which all give a person more leverage when loosening a filter?
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TonyF wrote:
TheO.Z. wrote:
I trust the OopsClunkThud Snowflake... Most people I know do too.

Really is a well designed tool that just plain works right.
My only question is about leverage. If someone put the filter on too tight to begin with how would this snowflake be more effective than the other tools which all give a person more leverage when loosening a filter?
+1 on the question.

Last time I changed my oil, I had to tighten the filter to its max to stop the oil leaking from it. I'd hate to have to remove that one with a snowflake.

The jettin tool has the added benefit of dealing with the oil plug.

FTR, to remove the old, slotted filters, I insert a file to function as a screw driver, and I torque it with a pair of pliers as shown above. The file nicely bites into the slot and does not slip.
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joshzingzing wrote:
or you could smash a scredriver through the guts of it and turn it that way
this can be a bit messy though
+1
That's what I've always used.
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Messy, too messy 8)
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Just curious:

Are there specific torque settings for the filter and/or drain plug? And if so, how important are they?
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From the wiki

Oil Filter 4-6 Nm 3-4.5 ft-lbs Oil the rubber gasget
Oil Drain Plug 24-30 Nm 18-22 ft-lbs Check, clean screen


The oil drain plug is a problem if you strip it.
MV Maintenance Clinic, SF, 2007 - First Day notes
dchernikoff wrote:
MV Maintenance Clinic, SF, 2007 – First Day notes



9. Replace the o-ring and the plug (lubricating o-ring and threads with oil first). Watch while you are screwing it in, that the o-ring doesn’t get pinched. Not too tight – if you strip the threads, then you have to have it re-tapped, and there is only one tool in the country to do this (which belongs to Rolf).

-Dan
Regards
Harvey
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Let's get this clear - filters are done up hand-tight (lubricated), and I've never ever had to replace an O-ring yet on a drain-plug (or seen one replaced at a dealers), which should be 'nipped' up, not 'tightened'.

Sometimes the 'worst-case' recommendations are regarded as gospel by some. Use some discretion...
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My feeling is you can learn how tight is good enough by

a) Stripping some threads and breaking off a few bolt heads, or

b) Torquing them to the factory recommended values until you have the ‘feel’.

Having done the former, I would recommend the latter.
cfargo wrote:
Looks like a good tool for removing these 2 (although I have yet to get one of the newer filters with a nut on it) but beware that both of these have very low torque specs. Just 4-6Nm for the Oil filter and 24-30Nm for the drain plug. I worked on a scooter this past weekend whose drain plug was on with 75Nm+ torque, a good way to cause damage. Depending on your grip, 4-6Nm isn't much more then hand tight.
windbreaker wrote:
daysailer1 wrote:
I was told that I would not be able to perform this operation without a 24mm combo wrench. It fits the drain plug perfectly. Thank you Pete at Sportique!
Yes, that helps. I had to do my first one with an adjustable wrench--not a nice tool for that.



Now that I have a torque wrench, I checked how tight I had it on: 60 lbs ft!



The recommended torque is 20! Oh well, the thread is still on. Whew emoticon
Giuliano wrote:
Having once bought a bike with a poorly repaired cracked sump second-hand I have always used a torque wrench on the drain plug.
Tightening and/or Torquing Bolts. Best Practices?

Regards
Harvey
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jimc wrote:
Let's get this clear - filters are done up hand-tight (lubricated), and I've never ever had to replace an O-ring yet on a drain-plug (or seen one replaced at a dealers), which should be 'nipped' up, not 'tightened'.

Sometimes the 'worst-case' recommendations are regarded as gospel by some. Use some discretion...
+1
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Reminds me of the old saying, the one who make the least mistakes typically has much experience. How do you gain experience? By making mistakes.
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