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My first time cleaning my air filter - please bear with me.

So I removed and cleaned my filter and it's now drying as I type this.

Upon inspection as I removed the filter, I noticed that it felt and looked very dry. No tackiness at all. Nothing. I thought that I would've clearly seen and felt some filter oil from the factory. Is a completely dry filter after 6500 miles normal?

And lastly, I will be using K&N air filter oil in the aerosol can. K&N recommends a light pass on both sides
of the filter. But this is for THEIR filters. Would this same general rule apply for our MP3 filters?

dk
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I use the same on my filter and it works great. After spraying I do massage the filter to ensure complete coverage throughout. then let it air dry for 4-5 hrs before reinstalling.
I clean mine every 2500 miles but that me geing a little ocd.

Edit: I have since stopped using K&N filter oil for paper style filters on foam filters. I just wasn't getting enough dust collection and did see some dirtiness going on in the throttle body. since switching to foam filter oil the cleanliness of the throttle body is much much better. The foam filter oil traps more dust and i find I clean it a bit more often because of that. A more maintenance issue but feel the trade off in cleaning intervals is worth keeping junk out of the engine.

edited on 6 jan 2012
⚠️ Last edited by old as dirt on UTC; edited 1 time
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old as dirt wrote:
I use the same on my filter and it works great. After spraying I do massage the filter to ensure complete coverage throughout. then let it air dry for 4-5 hrs before reinstalling.
I clean mine every 2500 miles but that me geing a little ocd.
Thanks for the info OAD. But do you mean that after you you oil it, you don't put the filter back together again for 5 hours? I'm confused... I didn't think that filter oil is something that would dry.

And just to be clear. You basically soak the filter with the oil?

Thanks a lot!
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So I bought the K&N "Refresher" pack just like OAD has today. It has the Air Filter Oil and the Air Filter Cleaner in it. Before I sit down and actually READ the instructions on it(that would be unmanly Razz emoticon ), OAD, any suggestions? I guess what I'm asking is, for the sake of us all, could you list step by step what YOU do when changing/cleaning your air filter?
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Well, I'm finished. The hardest part for me was putting the damn box back on. Without a magnetic screw driver, it's impossible unless you actually put the whole bike on it's side. just kidding... I did have to go out and buy a magnetic screw driver set... Seriously, it's bitch to get back on.

After washing then rinsing the sponge, I let it air dry outside in the sun until it was completely dry. I then gave the sponge 8 or 10 back and forth passes, both sides, with the oil and let it sit for 4 hours. Then I just worked it in a bit more before I put it back together. Instructions say to not apply the oil in circular motions.

That's how I did it.

Dk
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I can tell you what I do, very quick and easy.

Get a large zip-lock food/freezer bag. Put the filter in it. Add some petrol. Zip-up and squish for 30 secs or so. Remove filter, squeeze out, leave to dry, pour dirty petrol over some weeds you don't like. Put a 50-50 mix of petrol and fresh engine oil in the bag, add filter, zip up, squish for a bit, remove filter, squeeze excess out, tip out petrol/oil mix on some more weeds. Let the filter 'dry' (let the petrol evaporate) and then replace in scooter.

If you think pouring petrol or oil on weeds is bad, just use it as a wood preservative on your fence. Old engine oil is good for this too.
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JimC, who knew you were into the whole recycling thing?
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Heh, I've always been into it.

I'm hugely into alternative energy. These days I'm hopeless at practising what I think...
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sorry for the slow response today. I have been tearing down walls and replacing load bearing beams in my house.
but to answer the questions on the air filter cleaning and oiling.
first I clean with the k&n cleaner spray it on let soak for 10 min. and rinse with well with low pressure water, massage while rinsing.
next firmly press filter between sheets of paper towels to remove as much of the water as you can to only leave it slightly damp.
next let fully dry. however long it takes it takes.
after fully dry spray lightly with k&n oil (its an aerosol) 1 very light pas bath sides and repeat. then lightly massage the oil in so it is fully permeated into the whole filter.
let it dry in the sun for at least 2 hrs ( I let it dry for 4)
then reinstall

hope this helps and answers questions

if you want to be ready for a quick filter change buy an extra and after its prepped pu ti in a zipplock ready to go.
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Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply, I plan on doing it first thing in the morning so that everything is up and ready to go by the time I have to go into work...if you don't mind OAD, I'm gonna put it into one of my "Fisher Price My First Air Filter Change" style of tutorials. I'm not that far removed from the "What does this do ?" crowd and I like to think I'm a nice translator of sorts between them and the "How can I make this go faster?" crowd like yourself and JimC.
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yeah my words are not as good as yours. and my typing skills are even worse Laughing emoticon
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old as dirt wrote:
if you want to be ready for a quick filter change buy an extra and after its prepped pu ti in a zipplock ready to go.
What, and miss the excuse for a beer?

Slowly releases breath...
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jimc wrote:
old as dirt wrote:
if you want to be ready for a quick filter change buy an extra and after its prepped pu ti in a zipplock ready to go.
What, and miss the excuse for a beer?

Slowly releases breath...
it'll be more than 1, or even some kentucky bourbon for the day Laughing emoticon
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Ok, Ok, at least your method ensures re-assembly is probably going to be correct.

(I have this large bucket full of screws that have mysteriously been left over after 'fettling' - luckily I often find I spot a gap that needs filling. )
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jimc wrote:
Ok, Ok, at least your method ensures re-assembly is probably going to be correct.

(I have this large bucket full of screws that have mysteriously been left over after 'fettling' - luckily I often find I spot a gap that needs filling. )
those are just spares the manufacture installs for future use
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jimc wrote:
Ok, Ok, at least your method ensures re-assembly is probably going to be correct.

(I have this large bucket full of screws that have mysteriously been left over after 'fettling' - luckily I often find I spot a gap that needs filling. )
Hey Jim, silly offshoot question real quick...I too, have um, err...lost some bolts(especially a few around the body panels). I got lucky and the local cycle store carries the EXACT type, shape, length, size, and even the dome heads...but.....they're silver. What do you think the best way is to get them black without having the paint just scratch off every time I remove/loosen/tighten them? Can you have just the heads of such things powder coated?(if you were as anal as me about it Razz emoticon). I haven't put them in cos I don't want these unsightly silver dots...

Sorry got off topic for a sec, but when else are bolts gonna come up?
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My solution is to put the silver (or stainless) ones in the out-of-sight places, or where the normal ones just go rusty. A quick dab of a black touch-up paint (or even nail-varnish) will work if you really want to go over-board.
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Re: Air filter oil
dkrz123 wrote:
I will be using K&N air filter oil in the aerosol can. K&N recommends a light pass on both sides
of the filter. But this is for THEIR filters. Would this same general rule apply for our MP3 filters?
People do it, but it is not recommended. It is very hard to get proper/complete coverage of the element, without over-oiling it.

The MP3 element is a close-pore foam. This type of element is traditionally treated in the way described in the manual, by using an oil/fuel mix to thoroughly wet it. The filter is then allowed to dry out in the air to evaporate the fuel, otherwise it will act as if it is clogged.

Close-pore foam elements therefore do not have a lot of oil wetting their surface, because this, too, reduces the amount of airflow to the engine. They will also need frequent cleaning and re-oiling in dusty conditions, but for city/highway use in urban areas, they could easily last 2 to 3 thousand miles without a clean.

You need to clean the element whenever any trace of dry dust is visible on its surface - that means there is no longer any free oil left at that point to trap/attract the dust.

You also need to clean the element when "wet" dust or mud is visible, since this also clogs it and reduces the airflow. Using gasoline to clean and reoil is almost impossible in a city environment, because of the strong fumes. Even washing the element in detergent leaves a strong smell in your laundry because of the oil content.

A paper element would have been much more friendly for most consumers, except that the habit some/many MP3s have of spewing engine oil out the breather would soon clog that.

Cheers

Trevor G
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Thanks Trevor_G!

I hate the fact that it's such an imprecise system. Wet it, rinse it, squeeze it, work it in, soak it, dry it... It's all so vague Razz emoticon

Anyway, for me, the K&N system seems to work pretty well. Especially since I can't be pouring gasoline and oil mixtures all over my living room and kitchen sink. Let alone dumping engine oil and petrol around my apartment complex grounds...

Not having a garage or even barely a space in my driveway makes it difficult to work on the bike. My apartment also doesn't have a basement where I can store chemicals, cleaners and other products I need for basic maintenance. I have to keep all that stuff in a small foyer which kind of sucks...

Anyway, the biggest lesson for me in the whole process was learning the importance of owning a magnetic ratcheting screwdriver set!

dk
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jimc wrote:
I can tell you what I do, very quick and easy.

Get a large zip-lock food/freezer bag. Put the filter in it. .
Great tip jmc.....Thanks

The freezer bags also can be re-used time and again.

I now plan to pin one up on the wall, next to my lawnmower filter cleaner freezer bag which is next to my bicycle chain cleaner freezer bag, and just below my........Sorry, I tend to get carried away at times Laughing emoticon Laughing emoticon

Got to go,time for my morning happy pills

R
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Re: Air filter oil
Trevor_G wrote:
dkrz123 wrote:
I will be using K&N air filter oil in the aerosol can. K&N recommends a light pass on both sides
of the filter. But this is for THEIR filters. Would this same general rule apply for our MP3 filters?
People do it, but it is not recommended. It is very hard to get proper/complete coverage of the element, without over-oiling it.

The MP3 element is a close-pore foam. This type of element is traditionally treated in the way described in the manual, by using an oil/fuel mix to thoroughly wet it. The filter is then allowed to dry out in the air to evaporate the fuel, otherwise it will act as if it is clogged.

Close-pore foam elements therefore do not have a lot of oil wetting their surface, because this, too, reduces the amount of airflow to the engine. They will also need frequent cleaning and re-oiling in dusty conditions, but for city/highway use in urban areas, they could easily last 2 to 3 thousand miles without a clean.

You need to clean the element whenever any trace of dry dust is visible on its surface - that means there is no longer any free oil left at that point to trap/attract the dust.

You also need to clean the element when "wet" dust or mud is visible, since this also clogs it and reduces the airflow. Using gasoline to clean and reoil is almost impossible in a city environment, because of the strong fumes. Even washing the element in detergent leaves a strong smell in your laundry because of the oil content.

Trevor G
WOW!! THIS(the pics below) is why you should DYI YOUR AIR FILTERS when you get a chance and at regular intervals...Given my bike now has 10500 miles on it, but I've had it in for 3 services. It's hard to believe that this is just from the last service(which was at 9K) and maybe even hard to believe it's from the 6K service...There was like a good 1/8-1/4" of grime and muck on my filter and check out the pics of the inside of the compartment! It looked like the underside of a lawnmower . Glad I changed it. I did use the K&N, and to compensate for the surface coverage of the aerosol, I simply 'massaged' the oil into the filter and even kinda did an 'accordion' thing with the flats of my whole hand to work the filter back and forth and let the oil get in(didn't get rough with it, just nice slow even presses). Letting it dry now.
Yeah, not exactly a 'little' dust
Yeah, not exactly a 'little' dust
This is the muck just 'rolled' off with my finger
This is the muck just 'rolled' off with my finger
After cleaning it and the inside compartment
After cleaning it and the inside compartment
Notice the oil/dirt/grease/grass in corners
Notice the oil/dirt/grease/grass in corners
After using the cleaner
After using the cleaner
Other side clean
Other side clean
Applying oil spray(after cleaner had dried) and before 'working' in with my hands..
Applying oil spray(after cleaner had dried) and before 'working' in with my hands..
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looks like they never serviced it at 9k. this could be your stalling porbelm also. heads up to all just check it every 1k or so only takes 5 min.
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Sometimes getting the screws back in can be a bugger - a magnetic screwdriver of the right size helps enormously.

Not got a magnetic screwdriver? Find an old loudspeaker (the bigger the better) and get the magnet off that. Wipe the screwdriver blade a few times (flatly not pointedly) across it.
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old as dirt wrote:
looks like they never serviced it at 9k. this could be your stalling porbelm also. heads up to all just check it every 1k or so only takes 5 min.
Kentucky bourbon Razz emoticon
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hepworth wrote:
old as dirt wrote:
looks like they never serviced it at 9k. this could be your stalling porbelm also. heads up to all just check it every 1k or so only takes 5 min.
Kentucky bourbon Razz emoticon
ROFL emoticon ROFL emoticon ROFL emoticon ROFL emoticon
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hepworth wrote:
old as dirt wrote:
looks like they never serviced it at 9k. this could be your stalling porbelm also. heads up to all just check it every 1k or so only takes 5 min.
Kentucky bourbon Razz emoticon
it those dam fingers of mine, they do what they want, sometimes people get mad at me for flippin them off but I tell them these fingers do what they want Laughing emoticon

maybe if I have more Kentucky Bourbon they would calm down some and act better for me
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OAD, thee and me must meet for a drink-a-thon.
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jimc wrote:
OAD, thee and me must meet for a drink-a-thon.
I can be found pretty easy in these Tennessee hills. Just look for my big red barn

I might be able to scare up some of that good ole white lightnin
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Pardon my silly question. What't the oil onto the air filter for? Is it to trap the unwanted particles so it does not gets into the system? Thanks in advance. Razz emoticon
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correct. the oil helps grab small particles that may otherwise slip past the pores in the filter.
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air filter oil
silly new person question. manual calls for "AGIP Filter Oil" and lists "mineral oil with specific additives..." Do either new engine oil or the kit oil meet these characteristics?? am assuiming the if jimc recommends it, engine oil must be ok but if so why "mineral oil with specific additives"???
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Re: air filter oil
MDj wrote:
silly new person question. manual calls for "AGIP Filter Oil" and lists "mineral oil with specific additives..." Do either new engine oil or the kit oil meet these characteristics?? am assuiming the if jimc recommends it, engine oil must be ok but if so why "mineral oil with specific additives"???
I think filter oil (either Agip or K&N) is all the same stuff. Probably just light motor oil like Jimc uses. Any of them will do what its supposed to do and that is trap some of the smaller particles.
K&E does make a good kit, I've used it myself.
⚠️ Last edited by larry8 on UTC; edited 1 time
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Re: air filter oil
larry8 wrote:
MDj wrote:
silly new person question. manual calls for "AGIP Filter Oil" and lists "mineral oil with specific additives..." Do either new engine oil or the kit oil meet these characteristics?? am assuiming the if jimc recommends it, engine oil must be ok but if so why "mineral oil with specific additives"???
I think filter oil (either Agip or K&E) is all the same stuff. Probably just light motor oil like Jimc uses. Any of them will do what its supposed to do and that is trap some of the smaller particles.
K&E does make a good kit, I've used it myself.
You mean K&N? Just checking in case I bought a knockoff or something
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Meant K&N, but my fingers tapped K&E. They have a mind of their own sometimes.
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larry8 wrote:
Meant K&N, but my fingers tapped K&E. They have a mind of their own sometimes.
I can relate to that Laughing emoticon
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larry8 wrote:
Meant K&N, but my fingers tapped K&E. They have a mind of their own sometimes.
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jimc wrote:
larry8 wrote:
Meant K&N, but my fingers tapped K&E. They have a mind of their own sometimes.
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Tiquela or Polish Vodka
@sh_lim avatar
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mp3 250
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Location: West malaysia
 
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@sh_lim avatar
mp3 250
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Location: West malaysia
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Somebody HELP!
Can't find the types of oil mentioned to 'grease ' the air filter. Can I dap it with compressor oil insdead? I have some left from my compressor machine. Help please, anyone. TQ. PS, I have changed the engine oil many a times but I have yet 'grease' the air filter, not even once.
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R.I.P. ----K.I.T.T.500, Agent Orange (400)
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@luthorhuss avatar
R.I.P. ----K.I.T.T.500, Agent Orange (400)
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Location: Muscle Shoals, AL 35661
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As per the posts above, you can use either a K&N or similar "air filter cleaner/oil" kit or you can also use Jim's advice and use petrol(gasoline) to clean it and then a 50/50 mix of petrol and engine oil to 'grease' it as you say.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 GTS
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Location: Harriman, Tennessee, Tn
 
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@old_as_dirt avatar
2007 GTS
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Location: Harriman, Tennessee, Tn
UTC quote
Re: Somebody HELP!
SH Lim wrote:
Can't find the types of oil mentioned to 'grease ' the air filter. Can I dap it with compressor oil insdead? I have some left from my compressor machine. Help please, anyone. TQ. PS, I have changed the engine oil many a times but I have yet 'grease' the air filter, not even once.
no to the compressor oil. If you don't have air filter oil use the same oil you use for the engine. put a little on the clean filter and squish it around till its fully coated.

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