Modern Vespa

Okay...so forgive me if I'm completely wrong on this but I just bought my first cheapo Torque Wrench and decided I would double check all my tightening of my rear wheel. I suspect their may be an issue...but that's a whole nother post trust me. Anyways, so I flip open my handy workshop manual..well open it on my screen and here's what it says:

Locking torques (N*m)
Muffler arm clamping screws 27 ÷ 30 Rear
wheel axle nut 104 ÷ 126 Shock absorbercrankcase
attachment bracket 20 ÷ 25 Lower
shock absorber clamping screw 33 ÷ 41 Nm
Rear brake calliper fixing screws 25 ÷ 30 Nm

That's all from page 47 under "Refitting the Rear Wheel". Four questions:

1. Is that wheel axle nut ACTUALLY 104 Nm? or is that Foot lbs?
2. The reason I being a "Torque Newbie" ask is because my wrench has one side that is in the range of 10-150 foot lbs and the other is 1.4-20.7 Nm BUT SAYS IT IS MEASURED IN KGM. Perhaps this means that I should use it set to between 10.4-12.6(instead of 104-126). But if that's wrong, I guess this wrench won't do it, but since all the others are so low and actually SAY Nm, by them, I figured it might be a typo. Anyone know?
3. I guess this is actually two questions but, does the manual mean 104-126 Nm when it has the "division" symbol? or is that some torque lingo I don't know.
4. Sorry, last question, so when using the torque wrench, do I basically set it to the appropriate torque and then turn it as hard as I can or does it basically get to a tightness and 'spin' similar to a chuck on a drill?

THANKS TO ANYONE WITH EXPERIENCE WHO CAN HELP . I'm sure there are others who are interested in finding out how to properly torque their bolts...

yup its nano and youo don't have a big enough torque wrench. You are welcome to come borrow mine.

Just a heads up, this is identical to what I bought(even the price of $25) and here's a nice review and quick tutorial....Will this torque wrench (that's in KGM work?)

Micrometer Adjustable Torque Wrench 1/2 inch drive - A Very Good Precision Tool to Have!
Written: Dec 30 '07 (Updated Dec 31 '07)

Product Rating:
Pros: Use once and you have mastered it. Easy! Very durable build quality.

Cons: Measurements can be difficult to read. No online manual or manufacturer website.

The Bottom Line: Price seems ridiculously low considering build quality and ease of use. Torque wrenches can be very expensive!




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nonedude's Full Review: JC Whitney 1/2" Drive Dual Scale Torque Wrench
What is a torque wrench?
A torque wrench is used to exert an exacting amount of pressure on a nut, bolt, screw, etc.
Torque is measured in distance over weight.
A common torque measurement in the US is foot-pounds. Also abbreviated as "FT-LBS"
Other frequently used torque measurements are: Inch-Pounds, Kilogram-Meters (KGM), and Newton-Meters(NM).

Going into any further detailed depth regarding the definition of "torque" and this review could quickly become extremely long.

2 basic things I recommend you know about torquing a nut, bolt, screw, etc.
a) How to use a torque wrench.
b) The necessary torque to be applied.

Why is torque important?
Well it depends on the job at hand, if torque is necessary.

Example: Your screwing a light bulb into a socket.
Torque is not important in this example, all you need to do is tighten the bulb enough to make proper contact with the socket.

Example: The tires on your car should always be properly torqued to manufacturer specifications.
Incorrect torquing of tire bolts can lead to premature warping of rotors (think brakes!), incorrect wear patterns on tires, loss of fuel efficiency, and other problems.

I had all 4 tires replaced on my 2004 Honda Accord V6 Sedan (click for review) on 12-10-05 (yes, I keep a log). I decided to check the torque specification for my tire lug nuts in the car manual (72 ft-lbs). I proceeded to check all 20 lug nuts on my 4 tires. They were not set to 72 ft-lbs!

Thanks to the Micrometer Adjustable Torque Wrench, I could set all lug nuts properly and sleep with one less worry in this world.

MICROMETER TORQUE WRENCH BACKGROUND
- This torque wrench is adjustable from 10 ft-lbs to 150ft-lbs (up to 20.7 KGM)
- FT-LBS are listed on one side of the handle and Kilogram-Meters are listed on the other side of handle.
- It has a 1/2 inch drive.
- Tool is 18 inches long
- It is made of Nickle Chrome Alloy Steel.
- "Knurled Handle" for easy grip when setting torque and using wrench.
- It is a "click style" wrench which is known to be superior to "beam style".
- Socket can tighten (with torque) and also loosen like a normal wrench.

MY OPINION with notes regarding above section
1/2 inch drive (on tool) is best suited for automotive application and similar work, however you can easily buy a socket adapter set and use 1/4 or 3/8 inch sockets also, these sets typically cost about $5 at a local automotive store.

I personally measured the following: Neck is 1 inch wide, Socket area is 1 ¾ inches wide, and handle area is 1
¼ inch wide.
Wrench composition is very strong and well machined. Neck has brilliant silver lustre appearance and is very smooth. Handle is ribbed (aka "Knurled") and serves two purposes: setting torque and also gripping tool when using. Socket area is set nicely into tool and very well constructed overall. Clicking mechanism is predictable and provides the user with confidence.

18 inch length of this wrench provides excellent leverage when in use.
Example: Applying a higher torque setting to a lug nut like 100 ft-lbs is not very difficult. It will require some effort but you don't need to have herculean strength.

Click style torque wrenches (such as this one) are far superior to beam style torque wrenches (the ones with triangular scales) in my opinion. They are easier to set torque on tool and easier to apply precision setting to your job while in use with no imperfections.

Hang up hook located at bottom of unit on locking nut is very useful for placing this tool on a pegboard. It's also helpful for turning locking nut.

Use this tool properly once and you have now mastered it.
If you have never used a torque wrench before, there is nothing to be intimidated or overwhelmed by. Especially a well constructed torque wrench like this one!

MANUAL
The manual is one page with type printed on both sides and contains 2 small illustrations. Page is 5 ¾ wide by 8 ¾ long (yep, I measured!).
Font page contains directions and cautions
Back page only contains a conversion table for cross referencing metric and imperial torque settings.

Usage instructions in manual are detailed and somewhat confusing to say the least.
I will provide a much easier to read instruction on use:

1) Unlock handle by turning lock nut counter clockwise.
"Lock nut" is located at the very bottom of the tool, it faces the ground when tool is upright in your hand and is black in color
2) Set amount of torque necessary by turning tool handle.
Handle spins counter clockwise to increase torque and clockwise to decrease torque (this is not a misprint: opposite of righty tighty, lefty loosey). Handle has numbers 0-9 on it with hash marks on each number. Neck of wrench has increments of ten (ex. 50, 60, 70).
To set 30 ft-lbs of torque: Spin handle counter clockwise until the "0" vertical line on handle aligns perfectly with the "30" horizontal dash on neck of tool.
To set 34 ft-lbs of torque: Spin handle counter clockwise until it reaches "30" horizontal dash on the neck, continue spinning past the 30 until the "4" vertical line on handle is reached.
3) Lock the handle (and your torque setting) by tightening the locking nut located at the bottom of the tool.
4) Now attach the correct size socket to the 1/2 inch drive on the tool.
5) Apply tool to nut, bolt, etc. Grab handle and pull tool (tighten) until a click is heard and felt.
6) Immediately stop pulling on wrench once this click is heard and felt. You just set the torque to spec!
JOB WELL DONE!

When your torque wrench is not in use, I highly recommend locking the torque setting on handle to 20 ft-lbs. This is not described as necessary in the manual, but I read this information awhile back. Doing so should prolong the lifespan of your torque wrench because the spring inside is under tension.

PER MANUAL: Never turn handle below lowest torque setting
PER MANUAL: Wrench was calibrated and tested before leaving the factory and is accurate to within plus/minus 4%.
PER MANUAL: Clean wrench by wiping, never immerse in any type of cleaner!

COST
I purchased this torque wrench for about $25 from Wal-mart over one year ago.
Under $30 for a precision torque wrench is very cheap!
Not to mention it is still in perfect working order!

CONS
Scale is not easily visible when setting torque. Tool is silver and scale is engraved in the silver. Improper lightening and you may need a flashlight to make your torque settings.

Hello Micrometer people, you out there? I can't find your website via Googling. And www.micrometer.com does not belong to the Micrometer Tool Company.

I give 4.5 out of 5 stars for these reasons. (4.5 star individual rating is not an option on Epinions, so I put 4)
However, tool works brilliantly when you overcome these cons.

So just found this conversion chart on an automotive site...NOW IF I CAN JUST FIGURE OUT HOW TO READ IT...


Latest Wallpapers Automotive Metric Conversionsbrought to you by Custom-Car.us


Length (Distance)
Volume (Capacity)
Mass (Weight)
Force
Power
Torque
Velocity (Speed)
Pressure
Temperature
A useful automotive metric conversion table for all your auto related measurements from Custom-Car.us. With this metric conversion table you can convert auto related measurements, such as bhp to kW and Kg m to nm. If you cannot find the conversion you're looking for, drop our webmaster an e-mail and we'll gladly add it.

Length (Distance)
Inches (in) × 25.4 = Millimeters (mm) × 0.0394 = Inches (in)
Feet (ft) × 0.305 = Meters (m) × 3.281 = Feet (ft)
Miles × 1.609 = Kilometers (km) × 0.621 = Miles
Volume (Capacity)
Cubic Inches (cu in) × 16.387 = Cubic centimeters (cc; cm³) × 0.061 = Cubic Inches (cu in)
Imperial pints (Imp pt) × 0.568 = Liters (l) × 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (imp qt) × 1.137 = Liters (l) × 0.88 = Imperial quarts (imp qt)
Imperial quarts (imp qt) × 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) × 0.833 = Imperial quarts (imp qt)
US quarts (US qt) × 0.946 = Liters (l) × 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) × 4.546 = Liters (l) × 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) × 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) × 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal) × 3.785 = Liters (l) × 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)
Mass (Weight)
Ounces (oz) × 28.35 = Grams (g) × 0.035 = Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb) × 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) × 2.205 = Pounds (lb)
Force
Ounces-force (ozf) × 0.278 = Newtons (N) × 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf)
Pounds-force (lbf) × 4.4485 = Newtons (N) × 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf)
Newtons (N) × 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf) × 9.81 = Newtons (N)
Power
brake horsepower (bhp) × 745.7 = Watts (kW) × 0.0013 = brake horsepower (bhp)
brake horsepower (bhp) × 0.746 = Kilowatts (W)) × 1.341 = brake horsepower (bhp)
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds inches (lb in) × 1.152 = Kilograms centimeter (kg cm) × 0.868 = Pounds inches (lb in)
Pounds inches (lb in) × 0.113 = Newton meters (Nm) × 8.85 = Pounds inches (lb in)
Pounds inches (lb in) × 0.083 = Pounds feet (lb ft) × 12 = Pounds inches (lb in)
Pounds feet (lb ft) × 0.138 = Kilograms meters (Kg m) × 7.2833 = Pounds feet (lb ft)
Pounds feet (lb ft) × 1.356 = Newton meters (Nm) × 0.738 = Pounds feet (lb ft)
Newton meters (Nm) × 0.102 = Kilograms meters (Kg m) × 9.804 = Newton meters (Nm)

So if I do my calculations correctly...

The workshop manual says 104-126 for the wheel nut...in Nm,

Since (according to the conversion chart)

Nm = X .102 = KGM, then

104 Nm = 10.608 KGM
and
126 Nm = 12.852 KGM

and thus falls into the range of my Torque Wrench. This makes sense, because...unscientifically...IT'S A BIG WRENCH. I just have to convert the rest now for the other bolts.

Nm

And about 100Nm is what I would have guessed without looking. FFS.

1kgm=9.8Nm - about one to ten. So the other side, if the units are in kgm is about 13-190Nm. Quite adequate for the job. Get on with it...

Isn't it amazing what you can teach yourself plugging around on "Torque Wrench conversion tables" in the middle of the night" Of course, must be like 6:30AM or so for JimC...I KNEW you were a morning person! 8)

Actually you've caught me right in the middle of a body-clock reset. (Staying awake on purpose throughout two days.)

It was slipping to the stage where I was going to bed at 06:00 and waking up at 15:00. Not quite right somehow, but with no-one to moan at me it just happens every couple of months.

Hmm... a bit of googling shows I might not be that unnatural...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circadian_rhythm_sleep_disorder

thought you wrote unnormal instead of un natural when I first read it
tired now I'm going to bed

"People with circadian rhythm sleep disorders are unable to sleep and wake at the times required for normal work, school, and social needs"...pretty sure my brother had this from age 12-24...my dad just called it LAZY ... but I think nowadays doctors refer to it as RETIRED

I have torque wrenches with both markings on them. I can convert them for you tomorrow if you need.

Mike

That sounds about right.

There is an even easier way to convert or check torque settings:

1) Open Google

2) Enter "convert foot pounds to

3) Before you even finish Google will have supplied various suggestions, including the one you wanted.

4) A simple online conversion calculator opens, the top one was

http://www.pitt.edu/~rsup/touqueconv.html

which gave a number of common variations in the one entry.

Cheers

Trevor G

Sleep is highly overrated; why bother? We get a finite (and severely limited, imho) number of planetary rotations and solar revolutions, so I say make the most of 'em!

Caffeine is our friend...