Modern Vespa

The main lock of my Mp3 has become noticeably harder to turn after a series of very heavy rain-storms. I wonder if a small amount of water has found it's way into the locking mechanism.

Is there a safe way to lubricate the lock? I understand that these things are quite sensitive and are surrounded by electronics which could become damaged by exposure to oils. What would be a safe way to ensure that the lock remains easy to turn?

Thanks

Lets see if we can get JimH's attention on this one. He'll know the best lube to use.
I would think silicone would be good. Not sure if graphite can be used or not.

Wayne B

Graphite, might that not be a bit messy? Silicone sounds like something that would be safe around electrics, but does it exist in a form similar to WD40, i.e. a pressurised canister which can be injected into the lock to displace water and dirt?

Best would be to remove it, then give it a thorough cleaning. Clean the key too - it's often remarkable how much gunge gets into the key grooves and then blocks up the barrel.

WD40 may well work very well as an interim measure, and I wouldn't hesitate to use it on a top-box lock. The ignition barrel though is slightly more important, and I'd hate any sticky residues attracting 'whatever' while it's wet.

I'm pretty sure that WD40 is fine for the lock itself - I'm just worried about what other components the fluid might drip onto!

It won't harm anything else.

Avoid introducing anything that would create a conductive path like graphite since it will work its way into contacts and stay there, likely causing electrical mayhem. WD40 is water displacing and lubricating, which is fine in the interim, but does also attract dirt and hold it. Jim's suggestion to remove the lock, clean it and lubricate it makes the most sense but for short term a little WD40 should work well.

BTW, my other tool is... duct tape!

ALSO: don't saturate with WD40 unless there is a way for it to drain out...

Graphite won't get into any contacts from the barrel - have you looked at the construction and the self-contained switch at the back?

For these locks, clean and dry is good. If dirty (think keys in pockets full of fluff) then WD40 is a good get-out-of-jail card - but no more than that.

A product called CorrosionX is the best I've come across.
The display they used to have for the product was a fish tank filled with the stuff. And in the tank was a T.V. that was on while emersed. Stick your finger in >>>>>> no problem. It displaces oxygen, loosens existing corrosion, prevents additional corrosion.
I went swimming with my truck remote IN THE OCEAN! Couple hours later, I realized it. That night came home and disassembled the remote, flushed with fresh water, dryed with a blow dryer and applied CorrosionX, and installed new battery.
That was 7 years ago still use that remote.

Mike

In the Air Force we used molybdinum disulfide. Looks and acts exactly like graphite but non-conductive. Fantastic stuff but damned expensive; McMaster sells it for $45 for a 6oz package. Beware that its sometimes mixed with graphite whick of course is then conductive.

I have used Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant http://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp on several locks around the home and the top box on my MP3.

It goes on wet, but the conveying agent evaporates quickly leaving just a thin coating of the dry lubricant behind.



I have no proof (insert legalese disclaimer here), but common sense says, if you remove all power from the circuitry of your bike, apply the lube, and then let it sit for a reasonable amount of time, it could be safe to use in areas near electronics.