Modern Vespa

I need to prime a GT200 to get it to Start.

The Starter Bendix is actuating but not engaging the Driving Pulley.

No Fuel is flowing, the Fuel Lines are dry.

There could be a Vacuum leak preventing the Fuel Tap from opening and allowing Fuel to flow.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

I do have Starter Fluid but using it is not the issue yet.

Without Fuel, the Engine cannot start and continue to run.

I believe I need to Prime the Carb in some fashion to create a Vacuum to release the Fuel Tap to allow Fuel to flow to the Carb.

I just do not know how or where to get a Prime to the Carb.

Best regards,

Mike Lynch

Hi Mike , Some info on this thread may help:

Vacuum Fuel Tap - How does it work?

cheers

Best regards,

Mike Lynch

That is your main problem. If the engine isn't being turned over, there will be no vacuum, and the fuel won't flow. A completely dry carb and fuel line fills up pretty quickly even with the slow revs that the starter motor produces.

Sort out the starter bendix first.

Absolutely.

It typically takes very little vacuum to actuate the tap (I've never tried it on a GT200, but most can be tested simply by sucking on the vacuum line to see if the fuel flows), but you won't have any vacuum at all until you get the Bendix working.

I will focus on the Bendix!

Best regards,

Mike Lynch

I have attempted to remove the CVT Cover to gain access to the Bendix.

I have however, not been able to remove the CVT Cover.

The Nut on the Splined Shaft has been removed but the Driven Pully Shaft Bearing is seized on to the Splined Shaft.

I have tried Penetrating Oil with no sucess.

Tapping and / or nudging with a Rubber Mallet and a Wooded Dowel Rod has not worked.

I do not have any specialized tools that I know of, that will help me get the CVT Cover off.

Is it possible to drill the Driven Pully Shaft Bearing out?

If so, might a replacement Bearing be easly found or are they a speciality item?

Are there any "tricks of the trade" that could help me get the job done?

Hi Mike:

Maybe this one will help?
GT200 - removing bearing from transmission cover



Harvey

The circlip is on the inside - and he can't get to the inside...

I've used wooden clothes-pegs as thin wedges around the casing, and a rubber hammer on the end of the shaft.

On both ET4s I've had, if they have been left standing for more than a fortnight they will not start. However, if I remove the vacuum line from the manifold to the fuel tap and suck on it, the scooter usually starts first push. No amount of churning on the starter helped.

Strange I know but true.

The carb bowl pick up only takes fresh fuel from the carb... there is a plastic sleeve on the pick up, so maybe it is the fresh fuel that helps.

Maybe I am also talking rubbish. Anecdotal rubbish.

Jim,

You have the correct picture of where I am at with this effort.

I'll try the Wooden Cloths Pin approach first.

If that fails, I'll attempt drilling it out.

I'm hoping that if I drill it out, there will be enough left to identify what's left so I can purchase an accurate replacement.

Best regards,

Mike Lynch

I was unable to find the rectangular shaped Wooden Cloths Pins I wanted to use per Jim's suggestion. Instead I used two Blade (Flat) Screw Drivers. The Bearing, would not budge.

I then pried the Upper Seal off the Bearing and exposed the Ball Bearings.

I used a third Blade Screw Driver to destroy and remove the Cages that surround the Ball Bearings, in the hope of allowing the Ball Bearings to be moved to one half of the Bearing Race so I could Drill out the Bottom Seal.

Since it's after Sunset here and the Mosquitos have gorged themselves on my blood, I'll wait until tomorrow morning to start Drilling our the Bottom Seal. This might allow enough play to remove the Outer Race from the Bearing in small sections.

I was unable to find the rectangular shaped Wooden Cloths Pins I wanted to use per Jim's suggestion. Instead I used two Blade (Flat) Screw Drivers. The Bearing, would not budge.

I then pried the Upper Seal off the Bearing and exposed the Ball Bearings.

I used a third Blade Screw Driver to destroy and remove the Cages that surround the Ball Bearings, in the hope of allowing the Ball Bearings to be moved to one half of the Bearing Race so I could Drill out the Bottom Seal.

Since it's after Sunset here and the Mosquitos have gorged themselves on my blood, I'll wait until tomorrow morning to start Drilling our the Bottom Seal. This might allow enough play to remove the Outer Race from the Bearing in small sections.