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@jeremy_w avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
79 P200e, 81 100 Sport
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Location: Iowa
 
Molto Verboso
@jeremy_w avatar
79 P200e, 81 100 Sport
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1443
Location: Iowa
UTC quote
...for the elementary nature of this question.

I removed the seat post on my P for painting. In my parts bag is the threaded seat post and a cupped washer thing.

From what I recall, the seat post just threaded into the hole in the frame with the washer thing.

Now the seat post just falls into the body hole, it doesn't thread in and get tighter.

I don't recall any sort of nut that held the seat post in place inside the body...?
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UTC quote
the welded nut may have broke loose










and sitting in the bottom of your tank cavity
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@jeremy_w avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
79 P200e, 81 100 Sport
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Location: Iowa
 
Molto Verboso
@jeremy_w avatar
79 P200e, 81 100 Sport
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Location: Iowa
UTC quote
So that's what I'm missing...

I knew it just threaded into the body before.
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i might be wrong about where the nut is

i cant remember if it is behind the cavity or in the cavity

get a flashlight and shine it throught he hole

if you see light up over your wheel then maybe get a nut up there

other wise you have to pull the tank and weld in a new nut

bummer
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Hooked
1970 Sprint, ET2, GT200, MP3 500
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Location: San Diego County
 
Hooked
1970 Sprint, ET2, GT200, MP3 500
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UTC quote
I think there's enough room to get your arm up in there and put on a regular nut if you need to. You may have to get someone to hold the seat post firm up top while you are threading the nut below. I think you have to do this with the gas tank in...isn't the post hole going through the gas tank flange as well, or am I mistaken?
@rover_eric avatar
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Moderator
1965 Vespa SS180, 1963 Lambretta LI150
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Location: Detroit, Michigan
 
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@rover_eric avatar
1965 Vespa SS180, 1963 Lambretta LI150
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Posts: 6980
Location: Detroit, Michigan
UTC quote
Yeah...my buddy's primavera had the same issue ( it's actually pretty common- either the threads in the original nut have stripped out, or the nut has broken free of the weld ). I could get my arm up inside a smallframe to do it. Largeframe should be even easier.
@jimh avatar
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MV Saint
Haud yer wheesh't if ye cannae be nice
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Location: Camden, Maine
 
MV Saint
@jimh avatar
Haud yer wheesh't if ye cannae be nice
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UTC quote
I agree. There is indeed a nut welded on. You will have to pull the gas tank mate.

If you still see the threads then it maybe stripped out, that's happened to one of my purchases.

cheers
@steveinsac avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
2007 GT200 1979 P200E 1980 P200E 2011 Triumph America
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Molto Verboso
@steveinsac avatar
2007 GT200 1979 P200E 1980 P200E 2011 Triumph America
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UTC quote
I see no reason to apologize for such a question as I have wondered about that myself. Mine is still in there but a little stripped. It still will go in but will fall out on occasion when I lift the seat. Thanks for posting that Jeremy!
@tor2ga avatar
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Ossessionato
Looking for the next one, probably electric
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Ossessionato
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Looking for the next one, probably electric
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UTC quote
There should be enough slack in the gas and oil lines to gently lift the gas tank out and turn it 90 degrees to sit on top. Pad it with rolled up towels to protect the paint. You should be able to easily reach the area where the nut is.
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UTC quote
just fixed my buddys p last nite

jim is correct/remove tank

remember to space the post correctly

if you don't you run the risk of closing the seat and not being able to open

if you remember the washer/spacing set up then your good

if you don't then start generous and remove washers till just the right amount of freeplay is there when seat is closed Nerd emoticon
@megnez avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
1979 p200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1201
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
 
Molto Verboso
@megnez avatar
1979 p200e
Joined: UTC
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
UTC quote
Tor2ga wrote:
There should be enough slack in the gas and oil lines to gently lift the gas tank out and turn it 90 degrees to sit on top. Pad it with rolled up towels to protect the paint. You should be able to easily reach the area where the nut is.
Mine is definitely not long enough to do this. Is this normal?
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UTC quote
megnez wrote:
Tor2ga wrote:
There should be enough slack in the gas and oil lines to gently lift the gas tank out and turn it 90 degrees to sit on top. Pad it with rolled up towels to protect the paint. You should be able to easily reach the area where the nut is.
Mine is definitely not long enough to do this. Is this normal?
hi meg, if you are refering to the available length of hose, no worries.

we had to disco the hoses

some hoses are long enough to rotate in the cavity

if the hose isto long then you have a flow issue Nerd emoticon
@megnez avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
1979 p200e
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1201
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
 
Molto Verboso
@megnez avatar
1979 p200e
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
UTC quote
jimmyb865 wrote:
megnez wrote:
Tor2ga wrote:
There should be enough slack in the gas and oil lines to gently lift the gas tank out and turn it 90 degrees to sit on top. Pad it with rolled up towels to protect the paint. You should be able to easily reach the area where the nut is.
Mine is definitely not long enough to do this. Is this normal?
hi meg, if you are refering to the available length of hose, no worries.

we had to disco the hoses

some hoses are long enough to rotate in the cavity

if the hose isto long then you have a flow issue Nerd emoticon
I thought the P series fuel line had to be no longer than 24". Is that long enough to be able to pull the tank from the cavity and rotate it?
@xantufrog avatar
UTC

Moderibbit
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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Location: Atlanta, GA
 
Moderibbit
@xantufrog avatar
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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UTC quote
megnez wrote:
I thought the P series fuel line had to be no longer than 24". Is that long enough to be able to pull the tank from the cavity and rotate it?
I was able to pull my tank with the fuel line in place. Two feet is pretty long in respect to the depth of the cavity. I did have to disconnect the oil line and feed it through the frame.
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UTC quote
i don't know what the length should be

i do know if it is too long you will have poor feed to the carb body at low tank levels.

too short and you run the risk of kink at tap Nerd emoticon
@mdchanic avatar
UTC

Hooked
GS 160 /4
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Location: Maine, USA
 
Hooked
@mdchanic avatar
GS 160 /4
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Location: Maine, USA
UTC quote
megnez wrote:
I thought the P series fuel line had to be no longer than 24". Is that long enough to be able to pull the tank from the cavity and rotate it?
Mine is 22", and I can lift the tank to about an inch above the frame - long enough to disconnect it, but I usually disconnect it at the carb, mostly because I'm happier dousing the outside of the engine with the oily gas in the fuel line than pouring it inside the body.

I'd have room to disconnect it at the tank end if I wanted to, though.

- Eric
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UTC quote
MDchanic wrote:
megnez wrote:
I thought the P series fuel line had to be no longer than 24". Is that long enough to be able to pull the tank from the cavity and rotate it?
Mine is 22", and I can lift the tank to about an inch above the frame - long enough to disconnect it, but I usually disconnect it at the carb, mostly because I'm happier dousing the outside of the engine with the oily gas in the fuel line than pouring it inside the body.

I'd have room to disconnect it at the tank end if I wanted to, though.

- Eric
yea Nerd emoticon
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