OP
@psft avatar
UTC

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'81 Vespa P200 E, '76 150 Sprint Veloce
Joined: UTC
Posts: 85
Location: Santa Monica, CA
 
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@psft avatar
'81 Vespa P200 E, '76 150 Sprint Veloce
Joined: UTC
Posts: 85
Location: Santa Monica, CA
UTC quote
Hi,

Fuse blew out twice. I think it's from a really worn out wire connecting from the junction box. Exposed wire almost disintegrating; used electrical tape for the moment.

1) Any good tips on troubleshooting root cause of a blown fuse? Going to replace that wire mentioned above, but just in case that isn't it.

2) Should I go with the glass fuse instead of the plastic fuse (see attachment)? Benefits of one over the other, besides seeing the glass fuse being available more than the other. I'm assuming I need to replace the fuse holders as well, right?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@aviator47 avatar
UTC

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2006 PX 150 & Malossi Kitted Malaguti Yesterday (Wife's)
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Posts: 12955
Location: Paros Island, Greece
 
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@aviator47 avatar
2006 PX 150 & Malossi Kitted Malaguti Yesterday (Wife's)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12955
Location: Paros Island, Greece
UTC quote
If the fuse is blowing due to an intermittent short, that's one of the more difficult problems to trouble shoot. All you can really do is inspect every inch of the circuitry protected by the fuse for obvious shorts.

As far as one style fuse versus another, all fuses are electrically the same. Well, almost. Some fuses are designed to allow very brief transient surges to pass without blowing the fuse, and are called "slow-blow" fuses, but these are not commonly found in automotive applications.

For circuit protection on your Vespa, any automotive type fuse of the proper amperage will work.

Al
⚠️ Last edited by Aviator47 on UTC; edited 2 times
@mdchanic avatar
UTC

Hooked
GS 160 /4
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Posts: 402
Location: Maine, USA
 
Hooked
@mdchanic avatar
GS 160 /4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 402
Location: Maine, USA
UTC quote
Those plastic or ceramic VW-type fuses can be annoying - their tips can corrode easily and they can come apart when removed from "pincher" type fuse holders, but in a dry area they work just fine. I wouldn't bother changing it.

As for finding the problem - Al said it, just check every millimeter of every part of the system and you'll find it. Or put in a 30A fuse and see what melts.

- Eric
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UTC

Moderator
1965 Vespa SS180, 1963 Lambretta LI150
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Posts: 6980
Location: Detroit, Michigan
 
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@rover_eric avatar
1965 Vespa SS180, 1963 Lambretta LI150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6980
Location: Detroit, Michigan
UTC quote
Yeah... somewhere you've got a power short to ground. On the Super i was just doing the electrics on, someone had attached the glovebox and pinched a wire coming off the fusebox... so it was shorting all power off the battery to ground and was passing enough current to start melting the insulation on the wire....it was smoking off!

That was a pretty obvious find... just look for the smoke and follow the wire to where it's grounding to the frame!
OP
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UTC

Enthusiast
'81 Vespa P200 E, '76 150 Sprint Veloce
Joined: UTC
Posts: 85
Location: Santa Monica, CA
 
Enthusiast
@psft avatar
'81 Vespa P200 E, '76 150 Sprint Veloce
Joined: UTC
Posts: 85
Location: Santa Monica, CA
UTC quote
Tried the following:

1) Changed the red wire coming from the junction box. Fuse blown again when bike is running (on it's stand). Last of the 8 amp fuses.

2) Taped up a couple of exposed wires in the glove box cowl: a) positive wire to the fuse clamp b) the wires going to the flasher unit. Only had a 5 amp and 16 amp fuses left. Used the 5 amp and it worked. Thanks HP.

I guess it's pretty sensitive in there.

Luckily, I didn't have to go into the headset.

Thanks everyone.

Cheers,
Tam
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