Modern Vespa

So it has been raining a lot in Atlanta, and I have had a few issues start happening. First was my hazards coming on by themselves and intermittently. Then earlier today I had to honk on the horn at a driver and then the horn stayed on causing me to fiddle with it while riding to get it to go off. Got it off by pressing close to the pivot point. Then on the ride home I had a solid red light on under the speedo. The immobilizer led stayed on the whole ride home and then when I parked it the led stayed on and gets a little brighter when it would normally flash.

I am guessing I need to take apart things and see what is going on with it. Appreciate any advice. Will check back in a bit, might go throw a couple of screwdrivers at Thumpy to see if that will straighten it out.

Last week I got some much needed rain, but the rain caused the left blinker to turn on by itself. I could switch it over to the right blinker but then cancelling it, it went back to the left blinker. My interim solution was to drive with the hazards on until the switches dried out. As soon as it dried up, the problem solved itself. To be honest, thought, I felt a lot better rain riding with the hazards on.

That's what I think is going on. I would suggest water-proofing the switches where ever possible.

How exactly does one go about "water-proofing the switches"?

chris

To waterproof connectors you need some dielectric grease - often called 'silicone grease'.

The indicator unit is particularly vulnerable on the 500 (and it might be the same on the other MP3s) - behind the rear LHS painted panel, where it gets all sorts of shit thrown up at it. Carefully remove the connector, clean up any corrosion and grease up. Then encase in self-amalgamating tape. If, like me, you find the +12V pin has just corroded away, do not despair, the other unused pin is connected to the same circuit inside, and can be used instead.

The handle-bar switches need the same treatment with dielectric grease, both inside the switches and on their connectors. Good dealers in the UK do all this at PDI or first service - well the connectors themselves at least. Perhaps this is because we get rain at any time, so the problems were recognised very early on.

Same goes for all the connectors under the front fairing.

Thanks Jim. That is the plan. It has been one of those eventually get around to it things that has now lifted its ugly head. I was pretty sure that would be your answer as soon as it started happening on the road. I thought to myself WWJD?

I just checked on the immobilizer LED and it seems to have straightened up; now it is just blinking rather than be on solid and pulsating.

Excellent information Jim, thanks for sharing. 8)

WayneB mentioned that the Italians are known for poor wiring. I think the MP3's susceptibility to these moisture issues is more evidence of that. In a short amount of time I'll have my dealer weather-proof all the switches utilizing the method you indicated.

chris

Thanks, I'm printing this out to take for my 6000 mile service this week. The exact same thing happened to me (hazards and horn, tilt-lock wierdness) driving home from Panama City in heavy rain for about 5-6 hours. It was getting better as things dried out coming home, but still strange. I'll give this to Jonathan, the tech at Chattanooga Cycle.

Don't forget to weather-proof the starter relay as well - it's the 'hidden fuse' connections that need the attention.

https://modernvespa.com/forum/topic44194

Pictures:

http://www.wotmeworry.org.uk/fuoco_solenoid/

Ok, I am working on it.

Got the plastic taken off around the handlebars. Pulled off the left hand side switches, indicators, high/low, etc.

So I then popped the horn and indicator switches out as I wanted to take a closer look at them. As mentioned earlier the horn switch got stuck on recently and the indicators switch has always been a little "sticky". I decided to spray WD40 inside the switches hoping to loosen them up. This may have been my mistake.

I then spread the dielectric grease on the conductors and reassembled. I put the cluster back on the scooter and plugged in all the connectors. Then tested the switches.
The horn works just fine.
The hazard flashers work.
The turn signal is now stuck on a left-hand turn and won't stop.
The high/low beam switch doesn't work because the lights are not on, and the scooter will not start.

I took a few pics with my camera phone that I can post later. Just hoping someone might jump on with a little help while I grease up the right hand cluster; starter, tilt lock, etc.

I am ok with the idea that I screwed up the indicator switch. But if so, can I disconnect it so I am not a constant flasher until I get a new one in. Use hand signals for a day to a week depending. Will the scoot run like that?

Oops... You don't know this yet. The lights won't work without the scooter running... Yes. These switches seem to have a finite life anyway, so no huge loss to buy a new one. Then take the old one apart and get it working as a spare.

Okay, went out and buttoned everything up. Came back inside to check the forum, read Jim's reply. Went back out and did a full check of all the switches. Everything is good except the indicator which is unplugged.

Only other thing is my immobilizer LED is on solid. I thought that it had fixed itself last night, but this morning it was on steady. I figured I would take a look at it tonight, but not sure what to do about it.

All I have weatherized so far is just the handlebar switches, what is next and how difficult is it to get to?

Loads under the front plastic as well as the indicator 'relay' and starter relay.

Headlamp connectors would seem a good idea (posts passim), plus all relay connectors up front.

I have no idea why your code LED is on permanently - does the bike now start?

Oh yeah...sorry about that. It starts. So that LED is a code thing I need to get checked out when I go get the switch, assuming the dealer has one in stock?

It could be a damp issue or a wire-chafe issue - almost certainly the former somewhere that is high impedance. X9's used to have a similar problem with their digidashes - open up and place in an airing cupboard overnight, then allow to cool used to be the answer - plus a good dose of conformant sealant (PCB varnish).

The photos I took all turned out crappy. Not even worth posting or keeping on my hard drive.

I got the indicator switch on order, total around $15 with expedited shipping. Hoping that it will arrive by Friday.

Fun on my lunch break.

Took apart the indicator switch. Noticed this little ball not being in any place in particular. Any ideas where it is supposed to go?

Yes.

There should be a tiny spring inside the far end of the button arm - and the ball sits between that and the V-shaped bit of metal (plastic?). Quite tricky to get back in place after the clean/grease-up, but not in the league of some 'metal puzzles'.

Ok, put it back together placing the ball as you said. I did that a couple of times with the same result. The ball escapes and then gets in the way of the movement. It seems like it would actually function without the ball in place. I think I will try this on the way home. Must be something missing that is supposed to keep the ball in place. I don't know. It seems that when you move the switch to either side, it causes the ball to drop out of position.

That shouldn't happen - it should stay in place once all is 'done up' again. It may well fall out if the whole switch isn't re-assembled.

Jim, thanks again for your help. I had the same thoughts yesterday, that if it wasn't fully reassembled that might cause the ball to slip out. But I tried it several times and it would fall out on the first switch. But I did take the ball out and reassemble it and it worked fine. Yesterday I went in to work using hand signals and went home with a working indicator switch. I realize it is not "right" and that grates on my Virgo sensibilities, but I have a new one on the way and can then retire this to a spare part.

Also, I was wondering if the LED light might be related to the fact that I kept the wrench icon flashing for the past couple of hundred miles. It wasn't bothering me and served as a reminder to keep an eye on the transmission till I could change the belt. Anyway, I decided to reset the icon last night. This morning I had no LED light on. So that is "taken care of". I can't say if that did it or it finally dried out or what, but it seems fixed so I 'll take it.

Other than changing out the windscreen, this is the most I have gotten into the MP3 workings. I appreciate the opportunity to get to know ThuMP3r just a little better.

Total coincidence. Finally drying out is the answer.

Glowguy, did you order from local shop or on line for your replacement switch?

I have a 12,000 mile service scheduled next week and am starting to have some of the same symptoms. If they don't have any switches in stock I may ask them to order just in case.

Fuzzy - I ordered it from Scooter Superstore.

Alright, so I thought everything was going good. But I just got back from lunch and had to walk a block back to the office as my scooter just quit on me at a stop sign.

Pulled up to the stop sign and the engine died. I tried restarting. With the rear brake engaged, the starter motor cranks but it doesn't fire up. With the front brake engaged, it does nothing, no starter motor. I flipped the "Engine Cut Off Switch (not a Kill Switch)" several times, no response.



I am glad that I was not part of the many that had serious flood issues this past week, but to paraphrase the cry of the 80's "I want my MP3".

OK, a new separate issue has arisen - your front (RH) brake light switch needs replacing/cleaning. Nothing to do with anything else. Not uncommon.

Why your bike doesn't start is another matter altogether. Can you hear the fuel pump whirr when you switch on? If not, what is the immobilser LED showing (assuming it's now behaving properly)? The fact it was playing up does suggest there's been some water problem which may now have allowed some corrosion somewhere. If the pump does pressurise then maybe it's as simple as spark plug connections. Good hunting!

Glow Guy...
I am enjoying reading your posts because I too am having electronic issues since this weeks rain...
My rear brake lights will not come on now, hence my bike will not start when I pull on the rear brake lever....
Also, since the bike got wet, I keep getting the wrench icon and belt icon lighting up on start up, but there is nothing wrong with the bike or belt...

Glad to hear some of my Georgia riders are having electrical problems too...

Because everyone know that misery loves company...

New brake light switch for you as well then. But it is due a check-up or service, either because of miles covered, the time since last service, or the dealer didn't re-set the icons the last time he serviced it.

...continuing story.

Walked back to the scooter after work... and it started right up.
Jumped on and headed home. After 1/2 mile it cuts out at a light. I push it out of the road, call the sweetie, and look at the scooter intently for a couple of minutes. I didn't really do anything. Then I tried and it started up, with the RH brake pulled.

I got suited up again and took off. Noticed the gas running a little low so stopped at the gas station after another mile and filled up. Started up again with the RH lever. And got me home, another couple miles.

So, it hasn't stalled on me at speed, just at idle. It's done it twice today, but never before.

I did put grease on the brake connectors last night. Not the switch just where the wires connect up, I did have to twist the RH side a bit so that I could access the "springy bit" that you have to push down to release the connectors. (I am running out of my terminology for these mechanical components). Might be time to look closely through those manuals.

Good point, just had the bike in for 9k oil change guess it wasnt reset...
Can I do that myself or do I need to take the bike in...

Do a search. It has been shared here a few times. Something like hold the mode key while turning the ignition key on. Then a sequence between the buttons by the clock.

It is in the manual too.

Hi, some interesting issue raised here. I'm guessing I'm a victim of the dodgy Italian wiring. Its been pretty cold wet and snowy here for a month now and since Christmas Day my electronic seat release and rear luggage compartment have not opened correctly using the key, the key itself is fine,batteries ok. Sometimes it seems to work and sometimes I have to use the manual opening. The thing is only 8 months old with 1600miles on the clock. Also last night while steaming down the motorway in pitch black I flashed a vehicle to pull out and then lost all headlights only to have to finish my journey in dark apart from the small light at the bottom of the front fairing. On arrival home I fiddled with the switch and the lights flicker on so its seems to be definately switch related as for the seat release I have no idea. I'm not electrically or mechanically minded so on the back foot a bit.
I think the best thing for me to do would be to contact my dealer, this has to be a warranty job.

how long ago did the bike run???


when the bike isn't in use for more then 2 days the remote shuts down to save the battery


put the keys in the ignation and turn the key take the keys out and the remote works again

This is an old thread, but you are a new reader. I am not at all mechanically minded, but my whole handlebar assembly got wet and corroded and acted decidedly weird. Like blinkers going on and off, horn beeping randomly, lights flashing, and tilt lock switch not working kind of weird. It got better as it dried out, but was still not right. This was my first bike ever and it took me a little while to clue in, but my shop fixed it right up. That winter when we took it apart we sealed it up as Jim suggested and I've had no issues since.