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@orange_s150 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
S 150, VNB 150, 101 Allstate, 01 ET2, 2005 PX
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Molto Verboso
@orange_s150 avatar
S 150, VNB 150, 101 Allstate, 01 ET2, 2005 PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1502
Location: CT
UTC quote
my motor seems so stall out when the motor is cold if i don't give it any gas. if the motor has been idling for about a min and i give it a good flick on the accelerator it stalls out, is this a sign that my idle speed is too low, how would i know what the 1650rpm setting is like? thanks.
@jimc avatar
UTC

Moderaptor
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
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Posts: 46114
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
 
Moderaptor
@jimc avatar
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 46114
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
UTC quote
If you've sorted the idle settings as per the wiki (one hopes you have) then:

Two words - valve clearances. (quoting DougL, but it might become a mantra...)
@harvey avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2016 Honda NC750XD, 2007 GTS (sold),
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Location: Canada
 
Ossessionato
@harvey avatar
2016 Honda NC750XD, 2007 GTS (sold),
Joined: UTC
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Location: Canada
UTC quote
Here's the best way of doing it: LX150: Installing a Tiny Tach

The cheap way follows:
The GTS idles at the same rpm as the S150, but it's fuel injected and electronically controlled. If you have access to a GTS/super adjust the S150 exhaust puffs to match the GTS's.

If you can't find a GTS, here's a video clip with a fair amount GTS sound at idle. http://www.vimeo.com/2191420
Adjust your engine speed to match the sound of the GTS's

Harvey
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@orange_s150 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
S 150, VNB 150, 101 Allstate, 01 ET2, 2005 PX
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Posts: 1502
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Molto Verboso
@orange_s150 avatar
S 150, VNB 150, 101 Allstate, 01 ET2, 2005 PX
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Posts: 1502
Location: CT
UTC quote
that is really cool idea harvey, and i am going to look at the wiki, i completely forgot that was there, oops. but i have not yet tinkered with the scoot, so i could not have messed anything up too bad. lol
@michael_h avatar
UTC

Moderator
2006 LX150 "Amadora"
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Moderator
@michael_h avatar
2006 LX150 "Amadora"
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UTC quote
Harvey wrote:
Here's the best way of doing it: LX150: Installing a Tiny Tach
An easier way that doesn't require drilling and wiring

Poor man tach
OP
@orange_s150 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
S 150, VNB 150, 101 Allstate, 01 ET2, 2005 PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1502
Location: CT
 
Molto Verboso
@orange_s150 avatar
S 150, VNB 150, 101 Allstate, 01 ET2, 2005 PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1502
Location: CT
UTC quote
thanks i will look in to the cheap meter, that looks like the rout to go apposed to guessing.
@michael_h avatar
UTC

Moderator
2006 LX150 "Amadora"
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Moderator
@michael_h avatar
2006 LX150 "Amadora"
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Posts: 7131
UTC quote
orange s150 wrote:
thanks i will look in to the cheap meter, that looks like the rout to go apposed to guessing.
It will work. You just have to be patient and let a few seconds pass after each small adjustment. You'll see the change in the reading.
OP
@orange_s150 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
S 150, VNB 150, 101 Allstate, 01 ET2, 2005 PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1502
Location: CT
 
Molto Verboso
@orange_s150 avatar
S 150, VNB 150, 101 Allstate, 01 ET2, 2005 PX
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1502
Location: CT
UTC quote
i can deal with that, i just want to be close to 1650rpm as possible.
@fogie avatar
UTC

Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 798
Location: Toronto
 
Addicted
@fogie avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 798
Location: Toronto
UTC quote
michael_h wrote:
Harvey wrote:
Here's the best way of doing it: LX150: Installing a Tiny Tach
An easier way that doesn't require drilling and wiring

Poor man tach
Isn't the Hardline unit that you used, just a variation of the TinyTach (which I suspect is cheaper)? Couldn't you therefore take the same approach with a TinyTach; that is, simply don't mount it permantently?
@michael_h avatar
UTC

Moderator
2006 LX150 "Amadora"
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Moderator
@michael_h avatar
2006 LX150 "Amadora"
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Posts: 7131
UTC quote
Fogie wrote:
michael_h wrote:
Harvey wrote:
Here's the best way of doing it: LX150: Installing a Tiny Tach
An easier way that doesn't require drilling and wiring

Poor man tach
Isn't the Hardline unit that you used, just a variation of the TinyTach (which I suspect is cheaper)? Couldn't you therefore take the same approach with a TinyTach; that is, simply don't mount it permantently?
I don't have a tinytach, so can't comment for sure. I know that the hardline tach uses a wire that simply snaps into the unit, and then can be unsnapped when done. Basically, you just attach the unit when you need to get a reading. Of course, you can also hard wire it in, but I suspect that it isn't up to the daily torture of being in the engine area.
@fogie avatar
UTC

Addicted
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Location: Toronto
 
Addicted
@fogie avatar
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Location: Toronto
UTC quote
michael_h wrote:
I don't have a tinytach, so can't comment for sure. I know that the hardline tach uses a wire that simply snaps into the unit, and then can be unsnapped when done. Basically, you just attach the unit when you need to get a reading. Of course, you can also hard wire it in, but I suspect that it isn't up to the daily torture of being in the engine area.
I checked the product sites, and it seems that the Hardline unit uses only a pickup wire, while the TinyTach also requires a ground connection. Also, the Hardline unit is claimed to have a "lifetime" battery, but TinyTach states that theirs is "5+" years; since the battery is not replaceable in either case, I guess you just toss the unit when the battery dies. So, for my purposes, it seems that a removeable Hardline device is the better choice.
@dougl avatar
UTC

El Macho
Vespa GTS 310
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9304
Location: Porto
 
El Macho
@dougl avatar
Vespa GTS 310
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Posts: 9304
Location: Porto
UTC quote
jimc wrote:
Two words - valve clearances. (quoting DougL, but it might become a mantra...)
Psst. I heard that. Razz emoticon

You are awful, but I like you.

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