OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 310
Location: Ex-Pat Brit in San Diego
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 310
Location: Ex-Pat Brit in San Diego
UTC quote
Can anyone tell me if there's a US distributer for Hammerite/Smoothrite or an equivalent product (for both) in the US

I could get family to send some over from Blighty, but if I can get it here I'd prefer to do that.
@provastian avatar
UTC

Hooked
1985 T5 Mk1, 1984 PX200 EFL
Joined: UTC
Posts: 426
Location: Minneapolis, MN
 
Hooked
@provastian avatar
1985 T5 Mk1, 1984 PX200 EFL
Joined: UTC
Posts: 426
Location: Minneapolis, MN
UTC quote
http://www.e-hardware-store.com/store/search.php?mode=search&page=1

Rustoleum makes similar paints and can be found anywhere for a few dollars a can.
@therooster avatar
UTC

Member
No, but I've done some headshots.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 16
Location: Colorado Springs
 
Member
@therooster avatar
No, but I've done some headshots.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 16
Location: Colorado Springs
UTC quote
http://www.kilz.com/pages/default.aspx?NavID=40

Don't use that rustoleum crap, it sucks.

tR
@elvispa avatar
UTC

Addicted
GTS 300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 817
Location: Pac NW
 
Addicted
@elvispa avatar
GTS 300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 817
Location: Pac NW
UTC quote
Admittedly, I didn't check the quoted link, but...
I have used Rustoleum products to try to stop rust and it was not effective.
theRooster wrote:
http://www.kilz.com/pages/default.aspx?NavID=40

Don't use that rustoleum crap, it sucks.

tR
@elvispa avatar
UTC

Addicted
GTS 300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 817
Location: Pac NW
 
Addicted
@elvispa avatar
GTS 300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 817
Location: Pac NW
UTC quote
Admittedly, I didn't check the quoted link, but...
I have used Rustoleum products to try to stop rust and it was not effective.
theRooster wrote:
http://www.kilz.com/pages/default.aspx?NavID=40

Don't use that rustoleum crap, it sucks.

tR
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 310
Location: Ex-Pat Brit in San Diego
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 310
Location: Ex-Pat Brit in San Diego
UTC quote
Thanks guys. This isn't to stop rust, it's to get the hammered metal finish on a few parts like the selector cover, flywheelcover etc.
UTC

nothing at all
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9656
Location: westla
 
nothing at all
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9656
Location: westla
UTC quote
krylon
UTC

Hooked
GTS250, VBB, Heinkel Tourist, Heinkel Cabin Scooter
Joined: UTC
Posts: 315
Location: North Shore Boston
 
Hooked
GTS250, VBB, Heinkel Tourist, Heinkel Cabin Scooter
Joined: UTC
Posts: 315
Location: North Shore Boston
UTC quote
I used the Rustoleum and had good luck with it. Just don't put it on too thick.
@smallstate avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
'66 Sears Allstate 788.94370 '65 Vespa V9A1T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1236
Location: Roseville, MI
 
Molto Verboso
@smallstate avatar
'66 Sears Allstate 788.94370 '65 Vespa V9A1T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1236
Location: Roseville, MI
UTC quote
i agree with jimmy. krylon is better. but, i do not like the nozzles that come on the cans. i have some other ones in my garage that work way better.
UTC

nothing at all
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9656
Location: westla
 
nothing at all
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9656
Location: westla
UTC quote
well, i'm really lucky as i have a paint store at the end of my street and all they have is krylon

they are not the worlds best but for rattle they are not bad
@rover_eric avatar
UTC

Moderator
1965 Vespa SS180, 1963 Lambretta LI150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6980
Location: Detroit, Michigan
 
Moderator
@rover_eric avatar
1965 Vespa SS180, 1963 Lambretta LI150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6980
Location: Detroit, Michigan
UTC quote
There *IS* a can of silver paint made by Glausrite (sp?) that is as close as you can get to the aluminio shade they used on all your silver bits. I'll see if i can get the code off the can i have.

Problem with rattle can - make sure you get a can of clear to coat it with afterwards, to add to your durability. ( advice from the paint shop i go to )
@therooster avatar
UTC

Member
No, but I've done some headshots.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 16
Location: Colorado Springs
 
Member
@therooster avatar
No, but I've done some headshots.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 16
Location: Colorado Springs
UTC quote
Hammerite silver (non-hammered look) is a VERY close match to Piaggio factory silver.

The benefit of Hammerite over Krylon is that Hammerite is an epoxy coating, so it withstands fuel much better. Krylon will be removed instantly if you spill fuel on it and it will stay much softer comparatively.

tR-
@provastian avatar
UTC

Hooked
1985 T5 Mk1, 1984 PX200 EFL
Joined: UTC
Posts: 426
Location: Minneapolis, MN
 
Hooked
@provastian avatar
1985 T5 Mk1, 1984 PX200 EFL
Joined: UTC
Posts: 426
Location: Minneapolis, MN
UTC quote
For those who say Rustoleum is crap, here's my T5 that I painted with Rustoleum last year. The color was a perfect match. No stone chips, no damage from fuel. The whole scooter except for the very back was painted. No clear coat on this, it makes paint damage easier to repair.

Do a search for rustoleum paint job and you'll find many articles from car enthusiasts who painted with Rustoleum.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@valkr1e avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
1962 Cushman VNB3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 70
Location: KY
 
Enthusiast
@valkr1e avatar
1962 Cushman VNB3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 70
Location: KY
UTC quote
Man, I like the look of that with those wheel covers. not sure if I'd do that, but it looks good.

my scoot is painted with rustoleum as well. so long as you now how to paint properly and do proper clean up at the end (sanding, buffing, etc. it can look great.

though I prefer krylon myself, it's just harder to find here and the color selection isn't what I want. We use krylon on the speaker cabinets in our sound system (25KW concert system, not some small PA in a garage), and it works great. the speakers take a beating on the truck between shows and get torn up at the shows from beer, dirt, fog, etc. after 10 years of everything from night clubs to multi-day outdoor events with the speakers just inches off muddy grass... they look beat up, but the krylon has protected them enough that they're not falling apart or rotting. which is better than expected
@therooster avatar
UTC

Member
No, but I've done some headshots.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 16
Location: Colorado Springs
 
Member
@therooster avatar
No, but I've done some headshots.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 16
Location: Colorado Springs
UTC quote
How does the paint on your fuel tank look? What did you paint the fork with? How does it look?

HOT T5!! I love love love them. Question, are the wheel discs dull silver (metallic) or more of a plasticky grey color?

I need some for mine and I got some from SIP that don't look quite right to me.

tR
UTC

Ossessionato
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2633
 
Ossessionato
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2633
UTC quote
Provastian wrote:
For those who say Rustoleum is crap, here's my T5 that I painted with Rustoleum last year. The color was a perfect match. No stone chips, no damage from fuel. The whole scooter except for the very back was painted. No clear coat on this, it makes paint damage easier to repair.

Do a search for rustoleum paint job and you'll find many articles from car enthusiasts who painted with Rustoleum.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Awesome T5 man.

Rustoleum works fine. It's just all in the prep work.
@provastian avatar
UTC

Hooked
1985 T5 Mk1, 1984 PX200 EFL
Joined: UTC
Posts: 426
Location: Minneapolis, MN
 
Hooked
@provastian avatar
1985 T5 Mk1, 1984 PX200 EFL
Joined: UTC
Posts: 426
Location: Minneapolis, MN
UTC quote
theRooster wrote:
How does the paint on your fuel tank look? What did you paint the fork with? How does it look?

HOT T5!! I love love love them. Question, are the wheel discs dull silver (metallic) or more of a plasticky grey color?

I need some for mine and I got some from SIP that don't look quite right to me.

tR
The tank is the original flat black factory paint. The fork is also the factory paint. I painted the wheel discs with plasi-kote car color #FM A135. That was the closest match I could find. The original paint was badly chipped on the wheel discs.

Thanks for the compliments As VLBJS1 said, it's all in the prep work. Also knowing how to color sand and buff it out after your top coat.

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