I looked on web etc and it suggested 5w/40 Synthetic 4T.
A friend can get hold of 5w/40 Synthetic from a car parts supplier reasonably cheaply - is this OK for me as the 4T bit is missing?
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I looked on web etc and it suggested 5w/40 Synthetic 4T.
A friend can get hold of 5w/40 Synthetic from a car parts supplier reasonably cheaply - is this OK for me as the 4T bit is missing? |
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Re: Oil for GT200 and GTS250
mike_bike_kite wrote: I looked on web etc and it suggested 5w/40 Synthetic 4T. A friend can get hold of 5w/40 Synthetic from a car parts supplier reasonably cheaply - is this OK for me as the 4T bit is missing? |
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I was just wondering the same thing. My VW requires a full synthetic 5w-40, so I have that around the house already. It would be great if I could buy one oil for both vehicles.....
I actually had to do my first "top-up" last night and added a few onces of the castrol I had in the garage - I hope that was OK. |
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You can use the European spec synthetic 5W-40 car oils in your Vespa even though the latest recommendation from Piaggio is a 5W-40 motorcycle oil. One advantage of synthetic motorcycle/scooter oil is the extra anti-corrosion additives used for off-season storage.
If there was an absolutely perfect oil, we would all be using it, and every Vespa dealer in the world would sell it. Cheers, Bob |
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Ester based oils, like Motul and RedLine, are thought to be the cutting edge in oil protection right now. I have also had good luck with Mobil 1, which is also available in 4T Motorcycle variants.
There are many good oils out there, the real key is changing frequency in my opinion. Kent |
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I have the oil, filters, sockets, torque wrench etc --> tick.
I had the scoot off the centre stand and resting against a wall with the rear brake tied --> tick. I'd watched motorsportscooters video on how to do it. Three times --> tick. Step one is removing the oil filter --> FAIL It has a big looking slot to insert a screwdriver into but the screwdriver would have to be huge to fill that slot. I tried going to 2 tool shops asking if they had something suitable - I was hoping I for something I could attach to my torque wrench etc. I'm also guessing it's going to be on quite tightly as they didn't use any grease on the exhaust nuts etc and they were a right pain. How do I get the damn thing off? How do I tighten it up to 4ft/lbs without a fancy attachment for my torque wrench? In the video he mentions cleaning the oil strainer with solvent - would white spirit be ok? I also tried to buy a 24mm socket but they don't appear to be available in shops so I borrowed one - any idea where I could buy one? Mike |
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mike_bike_kite wrote: How do I get the damn thing off? How do I tighten it up to 4ft/lbs without a fancy attachment for my torque wrench? In the video he mentions cleaning the oil strainer with solvent - would white spirit be ok? I also tried to buy a 24mm socket but they don't appear to be available in shops so I borrowed one - any idea where I could buy one? A new filter with oiled gasket needs to be hard hand tight, no more. Again use the allen key if you think it should be slightly tighter than your hands allow. It should NOT be as tight as the one that came off, if the original was tightened as above - they get tighter in use! White spirit would be fine, but allow to dry. Loads of places will sell 24mm six-sided sockets. Machine Mart do - but a complete set of impact sockets is often not much more than one single item. That'll give you 10 to 24mm six-sided sockets, all very useful on any nut or bolt that looks as though it might round off. Google for 'impact socket set'. |
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Halfords sell 24mm sockets and 24mm spanners. I did tell you about the allen key trick but you obviously were to busy talking and not listening!
![]() Remember we aslo talked about the hammer and the sharp screwdriver through the filter trick?? |
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I'll be trying the allen key in the morning. I was at Halfords today but they didn't have the sockets individually (nor did Screwfix) - I have loads of sockets and I love any excuse to use them but just didn't have the 24mm.
I remember you mentioning stabbing the thing with a screwdriver but to a mechanical newbie that's a scary thing to do. Yes I do talk a lot. |
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24mm oil filter socket from ebay which is nice & shallow
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Laser-4198-Oil-Filter-Socket-24mm_W0QQitemZ230376001164QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item35a37ace8c&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 |
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Arggggg - I still can't get the damn oil filter off.
I've borrowed and tried an oil filter remover shaped like a weird set of pliers - won't go small enough to grip. I've bought and used an oil filter remover with fabric wrap - fabric won't fit into tight spaces around filter and comes off. I've tried mull grips - won't go wide enough. I've tried the 6mm allen key in the end gripped by mull grips for leverage - can't keep the allen key in the groove. I've tried all manner of screw drivers to fit slot on end of filter. Arggggg. I'm happy now to get violent with the screwdriver - how do I bash it through the filter? will I damage anything? how does that help me get it off? or is it just for revenge? PS if mechanics were paid by the hour and spent the time I do trying to do things then they'd all be rich beyond their wildest dreams. |
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mike_bike_kite wrote: I'm happy now to get violent with the screwdriver - how do I bash it through the filter? will I damage anything? how does that help me get it off? or is it just for revenge? (Ps I'm not stalking you ![]() |
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ok - I put a screw driver through the filter (horizontally near the top) and watched it come out the other side. It's a terrible thing watch a scoot bleed oil after you've walloped it with a hammer. Sadly moving the screwdriver just seems to go through the metal of the filter rather than turn it. I tried a large screw through the same hole and tried turning it with my mull grips - same effect.
Is there a plan C? |
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mike_bike_kite wrote: ok - I put a screw driver through the filter (horizontally near the top) and watched it come out the other side. It's a terrible thing watch a scoot bleed oil after you've walloped it with a hammer. Sadly moving the screwdriver just seems to go through the metal of the filter rather than turn it. I tried a large screw through the same hole and tried turning it with my mull grips - same effect. Is there a plan C? |
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Those who take pride in the gentle craft of mechanics should stop reading now.
I finally managed to get the damn thing of using a reasonably narrow cold chisel and a lump hammer. I made multiple holes around the filter and by repeatedly smacking the chisel managed to get the filter to turn a a degree or two each time. Finally after a whole turn it managed to turn using the normal oil filter grips. I now have to find my box of plasters. I'm not an engineer but surely if you're going to something that should be replaced reasonably often then it's best not to place it in an inaccessible place, provide no access to normal oil filter removal tools, then make the whole unit round and smooth for minimum purchase, don't forget to oil the outside for fun and then put a screwdriver lot on the front that requires a screwdriver from the land of the giants. Just have the 24mm bolt to remove now - Yep, it's stuck good and tight too. I've sprayed it in WD40 - have decided to leave the lump hammer next to the scoot as a simple warning. Mike |
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Your problem sound less like poor design and more of someone overtightening the filter at the last oil change. No that you are in control - it will be fine.
Place some oil on the gasket, spin the filter on until you just feel the gasket make contact, hand tighten 1/2 turn past that point. It should never have to be any tighter than that... The fact that the tried and true skewering-with-a-screw-driver trick did not work means to me that the last guy was in a foul mood when he put that filter on and used some tool to really torque it on there. It will be easier next time - don't worry (just remember to put the plg back in BEFORE filling with new oil...not that I know from first hand experience..... ) |
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You can smash the crap out of the filter while removing it because you'll be replacing it with a new one. Be a little gentler with the drain plug, as it's soft metal.
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The secret appeared to be using a 3 foot long breaker bar on the end of the socket and then applying a 250lbs gorilla (sorry Diccon) to the end of it. At least when I put everything back together I oiled everything before attaching. I think I'll rest my new found mechanical skills for a while now or at least until the cuts on my fingers heal.
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