Modern Vespa

A few days off work, xmass over, finally got to put my Oxford grips on. WD40 really works better then rubbing alcohol to cut glue! Surprised how easy they slide off. Used hair spray to stick back on, only a few seconds of time, before getting grippy. Aux. control relay added, to avoid battery drain. Raining out here all day, but grips will not stay on at idle or even slight reving of engine on center stand. Hope to test out tomorrow, but they only take three minutes on test battery to warm up. Worse issue to day, my key started acting up again. Wiggled the ignition key a little and it started. Then no start again for about 8 times. Flipped key, no start still, voltage 13.1-12.8 or better on meter while trying to start. Need to try another key later, or tomorrow when the rain stops. All the times of not starting, the key was not recognized by the flashing LED. (after market key).

where did you get your aftermarket key from and who programed it?

I am thinking something else is up,other then key. This has been an on going off and on issue. Switching the key so far has been 99.9% successfull, but not convienced. Key was replaced already, just started acting up after about four months. today when it happened in garage, I did not have the other key with me. Will not leave home without a second key at all! Just may start using the OEM key, if the second spare ever acts up also.

UPDATE, decided to go for a new battery. Changed out the 16 ah battery for the 14 ah stock size, AGM. Filled, waited, charged, and now the battery is showing less power then the old one less then 2 years old. (according to my "battery bug sensor"; 54% is now 42%) My OXFORDs will not work, even at 60 mph. Electronic light just flashes and shuts down. 4k, 5k engine revs cannot even trigger the grips to stay on a moment. Add "ME", to the "unhappy customer list. What is the resistor to manually wire these up?

Why? WTF is a "battery bug sensor"? Duff stator or regulator then. Does not compute.

Suggest you get this bike to someone who understands electricity.

Between the key erratic issue, and the battery bug.
(is an electronic board that measures the voltage between startups and recouping voltage.) It is an idea of detailing a failing battery before you get stuck. The cooler weather has dropped its reading % of life down into the 54% range, was in mid 60s%. Just a point of a value, but just an on going comparison.
Erratic key starts, battery %, (but voltage was testing good), and now the oxford handgrips not working is why a new battery. Now why was there a 16 ah in there to begin with, I wish I knew?
Really believe the hand grips have a defective controller. Have a voltmeter on the scooter, and running above 3k revs is always good voltage. 13-14 volts.

very easy to trouble shoot.
diconnect the grips from the power source and if your battery comes back up to a normal level get rid of defective grips. if still the same start disconnecting all the add ons that draw electricity till you find the culprit.

Oxford grips have 12.7 volts at both side of the power connector, even when attempting to turn them on. (bike off, no other load on new battery) Five flashing blue lights, and off. Disconnected each grip and tried, still "flashing blue led". As stated, tested off the bike, and battery alone would not allow them to work, had to add a charger to the battery to get controller on. The battery was ? I tested with, so did not think anything of it. Seems the controller voltage sensor circuit is adjusted to high. Emailed Oxford, guessing the PC board is sealed in epoxy, so likely cannot just open it up and adjust the potentiometer for low voltage setting.

Those 'digital' controllers are a PITA. One of my friends has taken four, yes four, consecutive defective controllers back. If possible find one of the earlier continuously variable controllers, or get the 'chinese clone' version, or get a friend to knock one up. All it needs is a 10-100% variable mark-space ratio 1Hz feed.

Why did you get a smaller AH battery?? And how did you "Fill" an AMG battery, they are filled & sealed from the factory?

So you got a smaller Non Sealed Lead Acid Battery. Make sure you run the vent pipe out to the fresh air or all the fumes are going to corrode everything in the battery compartment.

First thing you need to do is go to a battery shop and have them test your battery and charging system.

Wayne B

It is my understanding that batteries with new bikes arrive at the dealer without being filled. Dealer puts in electrolite and water then seals the battery.

My dealer told me that some of the battery problems are from a dealer not properly charging the battery first time. It it is only partially charged before first use it will never take a full charge.

I'm not an electrical guy so those of you who are may shed light or corrections on this.

True for wet-cell batteries, not for AGM ones. True again. Most dealers don't use the battery that comes with the bike, they just fill that one (if a wet-cell), put it on an Optimate or similar, and install the one that came with a previous bike - now properly charged and ready for action.

First, replaced battery with the OEM recommended size. bought bike used, and do not know why the bigger battery was there. Also battery sized to factory min. charge rate? Walmart store in the usa, just got some new "AGM" batterys in stock. The acid is nicely packaged in premeasured plastic dispensor, just remove battery tape foil /push acid pack down into all six openings/ and the acid dribbles in. Remove and apply the "sealed plastic cap stripe". Let sit for recommended time period, 14ah was 30 minutes. Now charge for recommended hours, depending on amp of charger; either 1 amp(5 hours) or 1.5 amp(3 hours). Done. Update, measured the output voltage up to the controller, so no fault of wire connections.

Really??? Have never heard of "Sealed Battery" coming without the acid in them. Need to go look at these new batteries.
Very interesting!

Wayne B

Wayne,

I wouldn't want to debate terminology here but I've bought several bike batteries from different sources in the past couple of years and all of them came as described with a 6-tube acid supply that you installed, then put the tape/plug strip over the filler holes. In a couple of instances the dealer did it for me while I drove into town. I've had pretty much the same experiences at the Yamaha dealer, an independent cut-rate battery store, and a NAPA store. I wonder if there's a bit of confusion between acid batteries and gel batteries? Sometimes frustration and stress can do that... I believe that's why they make gin.

After reading so many unhappy stories about that particular brand of heated grips I'm amazed that people continue to buy them. It just doesn't seem like it's worth the hassle to save $50 or whatever.

I also agree with whoever made the comment that he should take his rig to a dealer or automotive electrical shop and have the system checked out. It almost sounds like he inherited a peck of pre-existing issues when he bought the bike.

LL75