Modern Vespa

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone had any wisdom to offer on removing the bearing retaining ring on the clutch side of the rear hub on a VLB motor (where the axle comes through). This is the ring that is reverse threaded and has receptors for nine pins. I actually did manage to find the proper tool, which has the nine pins and, on its top, a 32 mm bolt head.

I have been trying to get the ring loose using a 32 mm socket and a breaking bar. The ring is not in perfect shape with a bit of rounding around some of the pins, but isn't terrible either. Yet when I put some torque on the breaking bar, the pins tend to slip out of the receptors. Not wanting to do any damage, I tried some heat around the outside of casing where the retaiing ring screws in. But that didn't really help either. I just don't seem to be able to exert enough force toward the ring to keep the pins from slipping. I've tried a couple of different setups, involving an engine stand, a vise etc.

Is this a really hard thing to deal with? I suspect so, as the later large frame engines seem to have changed to a different system. I'd really appreciate any sugggestions. The bearing and seal are actually in decent shape, so I could just use them again. But I would rather do it right (if I can).

Thanks in advance for any help.

-matt

One thought I had was to ask the nice folks who take care of my toyotas whether they had an impact wrench with a 32 mm socket, and see if they could remove the ring (as a sort of special favor to a longstanding customer). But I don't want to do anything that is likely to get anyone hurt, or cause damage.

Thanks again.

If the bearing is ok I'd leave it be, you can replace the seal without removing the retainer. If you just must replace the bearing be very careful if an impact wrench is used, I've seen the whole threaded part crack off. Use some kroil on in and some more heat before going to an impact.

Thanks for the suggestions, and the recommendation to hold off on resorting to an impact wrench. I will try Kroil, which I hadn't heard of before and which seems like industrial grade Liquid Wrench. Reading a bit on the web, sounds like repeated applications o Kroil and heat do the trick in many cases.

I am happy to leave the bearing, and even the seal, be. But I'd like to get the retaining ring loose and replaced (as the receptors are showing some wear).

Thanks again.

HEAT...HEAT....and a bit more HEAT!

And it will come right out. Trust me.

Use a propane torch and heat the casing up....it will take a few minutes of heating.
Replace the seal while you're at it...they're cheap.

Got it! With no damage to either the engine casings or myself. Heat and more heat, and patience, did the trick. I also bolted the casing to a platform I built close to the floor, which allowed me to get a bit more leverage than when I was up on the workbench.

The seal looks okay, and the retaining ring less so, which I think is clear from the picture below.

Thanks for the suggestions and encouragement.

-matt