Fri May 21, 2010 8:15 pm

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Fri May 21, 2010 8:15 pm linkquote
END OF THREAD.
The footpeg brackets described in this thread, the 2010 UFP/LT, has been replaced by the 2011 UFP/XT. Please follow this link to the new thread: http://modernvespa.com/forum/topic79507 This thread is being retained for historical purposes.

Last edited by rjeffb on Sat Mar 26, 2011 7:43 pm; edited 64 times in total
Fri May 21, 2010 8:16 pm

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Fri May 21, 2010 8:16 pm linkquote
FAQ: Ordering Information
END OF THREAD.
The footpeg brackets described in this thread, the 2010 UFP/LT, has been replaced by the 2011 UFP/XT. Please follow this link to the new thread: http://modernvespa.com/forum/topic79507 This thread is being retained for historical purposes.

Last edited by rjeffb on Sat Mar 26, 2011 7:43 pm; edited 133 times in total
Fri May 21, 2010 8:19 pm

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Fri May 21, 2010 8:19 pm linkquote
FAQ: Footpegs
END OF THREAD.
The footpeg brackets described in this thread, the 2010 UFP/LT, has been replaced by the 2011 UFP/XT. Please follow this link to the new thread: http://modernvespa.com/forum/topic79507 This thread is being retained for historical purposes.

Last edited by rjeffb on Sat Mar 26, 2011 7:44 pm; edited 38 times in total
Sun May 23, 2010 10:11 am

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Sun May 23, 2010 10:11 am linkquote
FAQ: Revision History
END OF THREAD.
The footpeg brackets described in this thread, the 2010 UFP/LT, has been replaced by the 2011 UFP/XT. Please follow this link to the new thread: http://modernvespa.com/forum/topic79507 This thread is being retained for historical purposes.

Last edited by rjeffb on Sat Mar 26, 2011 7:47 pm; edited 9 times in total
Mon May 24, 2010 7:39 am

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Mon May 24, 2010 7:39 am linkquote
Phew, eventually found a local workshop that occasionally looks after some American cars, and found some 3/8 1" UNF set-screws for the pegs. Otherwise I'd have had to buy a box of 100!

I can also report that the Fuoco needed longer screws at the front mountings as well as the back, the stock M6x25mm ones just wouldn't start to thread in.

Very nice, very comfy just testing in the driveway, now for a ride.
Mon May 24, 2010 8:05 am

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Mon May 24, 2010 8:05 am linkquote
Thanks Jim, although this is very troubling about the screws. First on a /250, now on a Fuoco? If I have to I will just start including four screws with every shipment. I sent StickyFrog some more screws for his /250 and I expect a report back from him to see if I can at least dial back to shorter (= less expensive) 30 or 35mm. I think four 30mms are about the same price as two 40mms (we're talking the fancy 18-8 stainless, not that fifty screws-for-a-dollar galvanized crap from Home Depot).

EDIT: as a result of experiments and feedback on a variety of scoots, UFP/LTs come with four 6x35mm screws.

Last edited by rjeffb on Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:48 pm; edited 2 times in total
Mon May 24, 2010 8:07 am

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Mon May 24, 2010 8:07 am linkquote
30mm was fine for the front screws - and they should be for the rear ones as well.
Mon May 24, 2010 8:22 am

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Mon May 24, 2010 8:22 am linkquote
Sticky, I know you're on a trip up north, but when you get back can you try the longer screws I mailed you both 6mm out and 11mm out, and verify that front and back you still have at least two threads past fully inserted? Thanks a million...or at least 10mm...
Mon May 24, 2010 9:33 am

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Mon May 24, 2010 9:33 am linkquote
What a difference! Fantastic, how on earth did I manage without them before. On a ride around the neighbourhood I had to kick them vertical in order to filter, and putting my feet back in the 'normal' position just felt so, so cramped.

Thanks for all the hard work Jeff, bloody brilliant.
Mon May 24, 2010 10:02 am

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Neutrino MP3 492.7 AK, 2013 Moto Guzzi Norge
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Mon May 24, 2010 10:02 am linkquote
just got back from our weekend of riding in the smokies for our Dragon Gathering. WOW are these comfortable. they give you that extra knee extension when just cruising. Well worth the money to straighten out the knees for longer distance riding heck even the shorter rides too. If you have not got a set yet ya better get off the stick as they will be gone.

Side not I also got a longer 30-40 mm for the top screw as it does need it on the 500 like Jimc posted . I just went and got a regular hex head type and it did just fine for the top on. most hardware stores should have it in metric. the buttonhead allens are perfect for the bottom one as your boots won't catch on them.
Mon May 24, 2010 11:47 am

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Mon May 24, 2010 11:47 am linkquote
WARNING! Substitute screws = safety issue!
I am glad to hear you are enjoying the UFPs and are recommending them. I've never had my work called "bloody brilliant" before and I think with your permission I will add that one to my list.

I am, however, extremely concerned about this screw situation. Is this a problem with all UFP/LTs? OAD, I am dropping an extra pair of screws in the mail to you. Anybody else who bought /LTs and needs a set, PM me and I will get another pair to you. I do NOT recommend just sticking any old set of screws in, first of all because there is definitely a certain aesthetic value, but also because I - and probably you - don't know what the rating on those other screws is. The screws I provide are rated at I believe 80,000 PSI, four times what I did my calculations at. The screws used MUST be at LEAST 20,000 psi rated or they may fail! Jim and x-nemesis, being outside the U.S. you pose a particular shipping challenge to me, but if you could not get the OEM screw to reinsert and you have any doubts whatsoever about the rating of the screw you used, PM me and I will find a way to get you the proper bolt.

Effective immediately, all UFP/LTs ship with four screws.
Mon May 24, 2010 11:49 am

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Mon May 24, 2010 11:49 am linkquote
Re: WARNING! Substitute screws = safety issue!
rjeffb wrote:
I am glad to hear you are enjoying the UFPs and are recommending them. I've never had my work called "bloody brilliant" before and I think with your permission I will add that one to my list.

I am, however, extremely concerned about this screw situation. Is this a problem with all UFP/LTs? OAD, I am dropping an extra pair of screws in the mail to you. Anybody else who bought /LTs and needs a set, PM me and I will get another pair to you. I do NOT recommend just sticking any old set of screws in, first of all because there is definitely a certain aesthetic value, but also because I - and probably you - don't know what the rating on those other screws is. The screws I provide are rated at I believe 80,000 PSI, four times what I did my calculations at. The screws used MUST be at LEAST 20,000 psi rated or they may fail! Jim and x-nemesis, being outside the U.S. you pose a particular shipping challenge to me, but if you could not get the OEM screw to reinsert and you have any doubts whatsoever about the rating of the screw you used, PM me and I will find a way to get you the proper bolt.

Effective immediately, all UFP/LTs ship with four screws.
I think it is the thickness of the new style brackets as compared to the first go around thinner ones.
Mon May 24, 2010 12:10 pm

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Mon May 24, 2010 12:10 pm linkquote
I've no problem getting the correct screws, they're readily available here, unlike UNF ones.
Mon May 24, 2010 1:00 pm

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Mon May 24, 2010 1:00 pm linkquote
just installed mine today on my 500. Sweet! This is the best invention since penicillin!! -Robb
Mon May 24, 2010 1:09 pm

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Mon May 24, 2010 1:09 pm linkquote
I also apologize for the appearance of the boxes some of you are about to receive. I have run out of cartons to ship brackets in, but in an attempt to get everyone their UFPs before I go on vacation, I am canabalizing big Amazon boxes into lots of little ones. Not pretty but effective!
Mon May 24, 2010 1:24 pm

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Mon May 24, 2010 1:24 pm linkquote
robb was eyeing mine all weekend long. had to keep the scoot locked up so he wouldn't aquire a set overnite
Mon May 24, 2010 1:26 pm

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Mon May 24, 2010 1:26 pm linkquote
old as dirt wrote:
robb was eyeing mine all weekend long. had to keep the scoot locked up so he wouldn't aquire a set overnite
Hahaha. This is true Doug. I was drooling
Tue May 25, 2010 2:00 pm

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Tue May 25, 2010 2:00 pm linkquote
Mine arrived and I installed them on my 400. They are very high-quality.

I found punching holes in the floormats more of a chore than I expected. I used upside down screwdriver drill bits marked marked with gold magic marker to get the initial hole placement. I reamed the holes with a small screwdriver and then a screw-extractor, but these don't really remove a core, you need a tool that will remove material in a uniform way.

I ended up hacking away with a leatherman knife. I had to make the holes larger than I expected to ensure that I was lining up the screws correctly. It's OK because this won't show under the UFP's, and mats are cheap anyway.

I found that the stock front screws on the 400 were not long enough (at least for my comfort level). So I instead used hex-head bolts (see photo), which have the advantage of not having a allen-head slot to get road gunk in.

I have two questions for other people who have done this:

- is it advisable to use Loctite on any of the bolts? Seems like it would make sense on the floorboard bolts.

- Would it make sense to use washers with the floorboard bolts? This might spread the load over the entire head of the bolt by covering up the empty space of the slot.[img][/img]



Tue May 25, 2010 4:37 pm

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Tue May 25, 2010 4:37 pm linkquote
BTW they were just fine on the Dragon Saturday and Sunday









Tue May 25, 2010 5:38 pm

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Tue May 25, 2010 5:38 pm linkquote
Thanks Fuzzy for the fab pix! Except one of your headlights is out...

>these don't really remove a core, you need a tool that will remove material in a uniform way.

Anyone who has done this with a hole punch, please chime in with suggestions.

>I found that the stock front screws on the 400 were not long enough (at least for my comfort level). So I instead used hex-head bolts (see photo), which have the advantage of not having a allen-head slot to get road gunk in.

If you want, you can PM me with your mailing info and I will get another pair out to you - preferably soon as I am leaving for several weeks. I see that there are some markings on the head of the screw in the photo you posted, but I cannot make out what the markings are. If they include three or six small radial lines, that indicates an SAE class 5 or better screw, which has a fail point of at least 90,000 psi (see discussion below), so the only reason you would need different screws would be aesthetics to make all the screws match in appearance. If there are not three or six little radial lines, you should definitely contact me for additional screws.

>I have two questions for other people who have done this:

>- is it advisable to use Loctite on any of the bolts? Seems like it would make sense on the floorboard bolts.

As you tighten down the screw, the curve in the bracket bends slightly and the U-channel underneath flexes slightly. This places the screw head under tension and self-locks it. Offhand I don't see any specific disadvantage to applying Loctite, except of course my proviso that the brackets be removed if you are going to do kneesliding, but the whole thing is intended by design to self-lock and indeed my screws have never loosened one iota (for the first several months I was constantly checking). An MV forum member spilled his scooter so hard that the UFP was wrapped around the rubber bumper and had to be hammered out in a vise; but he reported that after the, um, incident, the screws were still completely snug!

>- Would it make sense to use washers with the floorboard bolts? This might spread the load over the entire head of the bolt by covering up the empty space of the slot.

No. The reason is a little enlightening. I calculated the load on the screws based on a 20,000 PSI tensile strength. Now, that is the strength at which the head and/or threads will fail (the threads simply strip right out, or the head just pops off). An M6 screw is 5.38mm in diameter under the head, so a contact surface area of 3.14 x (2.69)^2 = 22.7 sq.mm. At 20,000 psi, that's 20000 x 22.7/(25.4 x 25.4) = 703 pounds (wow! that's a lot, right? Except the bracket is like a claw hammer and going over bumps can push your feet down with several Gs for a fraction of a second). Anyway, the head of an M6 buttonhead is 10.25mm in diameter, so its area is 82.5 sq.mm, minus the 22.7 taken up by the shaft leaves 60 sq.mm - nearly three times the shaft area. So even placed over a slot with part of the head hanging over an open space, the head of the screw still has a greater surface contact area than where the shaft meets the head. The weak point is therefore always the shaft/head boundary, and adding a washer will not change that fact (but it will succeed in raising the screw head so it can catch on the bottom of your shoe ).

I'm not sure what the surface area available under your hex head is, but I think you get the idea - a washer is simply not going to make a difference.

I should point out that the stainless screws provided with the UFP have a tensile strength of more than 80,000 psi, so it would take a force of more than 1.5 TONS for them to fail (and there's two of them, not just one). I suspect that the Piaggio floorboard speednuts would fail long before that.

An interesting topic to read about (I assume you can find this on Wikipedia) is how exactly they are able to make screws that can withstand such incredible forces, while you can strip out the head of the screws you buy at Home Depot just by aggressively hand-tightening them.
Wed May 26, 2010 6:54 am

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Wed May 26, 2010 6:54 am linkquote
For "carpet" holes, a small hollow punch should do the trick.

Wed May 26, 2010 7:24 am

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Wed May 26, 2010 7:24 am linkquote
Stupid question: where would somebody pick one of these punches up?

Really stupid question: can one use a paper punch or other gizmo that somebody would likey have sitting around the house or office?
Wed May 26, 2010 8:17 am

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Wed May 26, 2010 8:17 am linkquote
A leather punch will do it. Look up Tandy Leather on internet.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/3777-167.aspx?feature=Product_6&kw=punch
Wed May 26, 2010 9:36 am

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Wed May 26, 2010 9:36 am linkquote
rjeffb wrote:
If they include three or six small radial lines, that indicates an SAE class 5 or better screw, which has a fail point of at least 90,000 psi (see discussion below), so the only reason you would need different screws would be aesthetics to make all the screws match in appearance. If there are not three or six little radial lines, you should definitely contact me for additional screws.
The markings are CHS 8.8. I found the following information on the web:
"Class 8.8 fasteners are typically made of medium-carbon steel that is quenched and tempered, with 580-600 MPa proof load and 800-830 MPa tensile strength. It is commonly used in the automotive industry and other situations in which strength is a moderate concern. Steels are designated by a 4 number SAE Steel grade. The first two digits indicate the primary materials used to form the steel. The last 2 digits identify the percentage of carbon for the alloy (in hundredths). The steel used in these fasteners has a tensile strength ranging from 100,000 to 150,000 psi (pounds per square inch)."

Now this was not the description of my bolts, which I got at a hardware store for 89 cents each. Mine have a 2-digit code (8.8) rather than a "4 number SAE Steel grade". So I PM'd you asking for 2 more additional screws

Re: using washers
rjeffb wrote:
...the head of the screw still has a greater surface contact area than where the shaft meets the head. The weak point is therefore always the shaft/head boundary
Wouldn't the load still be distributed more evenly over the "area where the shaft meets the head" by the uniformity offered by an enclosed washer rather than a slot-reduced bolt-head?
Wed May 26, 2010 9:59 am

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Wed May 26, 2010 9:59 am linkquote
Shoot me a reminder of your mailing address and I will get the screws to you.

Yes: a washer most definitely distribute forces more evenly. My point is it doesn't matter, because you are strengthening or evening out something that is not the weakest link. If the brackets were brass or aluminum, then there is an argument for using washers because you would be spreading out the total force across a larger area and decreasing the possibility of damaging (denting) the brackets. But in this case, the brackets are as hard as or harder than the washers themselves!

In any event, no harm in adding washers but they MUST be stainless, preferably 18-8 but at least 316. Otherwise, you will set up a galvanic voltage differential between the bracket and the washer (in other words, a type of battery) and wind up rusting both (yes, stainless steel will rust, if you expose it to an electrical current).

Last edited by rjeffb on Wed May 26, 2010 12:20 pm; edited 2 times in total
Wed May 26, 2010 12:04 pm

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Wed May 26, 2010 12:04 pm linkquote
rjeffb wrote:
where would somebody pick one of these punches up?
Click on the photo in my post above! You might also find 'em at a well-equipped hardware store or Sears.
Wed May 26, 2010 12:16 pm

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Wed May 26, 2010 12:16 pm linkquote
"This only happens if the force applied in an unbalanced manner is the greatest component of the overall force."

In this case the force would seem to be coming laterally at the slot, that is, if a rider presses down on the peg, the peg acts as a lever on the bracket, transferring a lateral force (side-to-side on the bike rather than front-to-back). There may be slight diagonal forces since the peg is placed out in front of the slot, not at the exact side.

Nonetheless, since the slot goes front-to-back and not side-to-side, it's still distributing the majority of that load to the bolt-head.

That said my hex-head bolts don't tighten down nicely like your original ones, so thank you for sending those out, I won't step on the pegs until I have the originals in there.

This is a great solution to what I thought was an intractable problem.
Wed May 26, 2010 12:20 pm

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Wed May 26, 2010 12:20 pm linkquote
I re-read your original question and I see I did not specifically address it. Now I see where you are going with this: if part of the head is unsupported, then there's nothing for that portion to push against and that could create an unbalance load between the supported and unsupported portions of the head, which would in turn apply a torque to the head-shaft interface in the Z-axis.

This only happens if the force applied in an unbalanced manner is the greatest component of the overall force. Stand by one moment while I open AutoCad...

...back in a minute...

...okay, take a look at the below drawing. This shows the shaft (5.38mm), the screwhead (10.25mm), and the slot (0.257" or about 6.5mm). The blue lines trace from the center of the circle to where the screw head stops being supported by the metal outside the slot, and I have measured the angle from that line to the centerline (recall that in trigonometry, everything is based on quadrants).

If that angle were zero, then there would be no slot and the head would be completely supported. If the angle was 90, then the entire right side of the screw would be hanging in space (and the screw would simply twist down into the slot as it was tightened, since there is nothing to stop it from doing so). So the question is: what is the percentage of the total force applied that is going trying to pull the screw down? If it is less than 50%, the the overall torque (assuming a perfect, inelastic screw) will always be less than the stabilizing force and the screw will have zero torque applied to the shaft (in reality, the screw IS slightly elastic so it's a bit more complicated, but that would require a far more sophisticated analysis). As we said, if the angle was 90 degrees, the balancing force would be zero percent (0x), and if the angle was 0, the balancing force would 100 percent (1x). Cos(90) = 0, Cos(0) = 1...and Cos(40) = .766. 76.6% of the force is stabilizing, and 23.4% is torque. The stabilizing force is triple the torque force and therefore no significant torque is being applied to the head/shaft interface. BTW I realize that this is an oversimplified explanation and really the elasticity should be considered, but that only matters if the ratio was getting close to 1:1 (i.e. balancing force greater than 50% but not much higher). With a 3:1 ratio I have extremely high confidence.

P.S. Those who just got a headache from reading this stuff, this is what engineers do all day, every day.

Which is one reason they find it so hard to get dates.







Last edited by rjeffb on Wed May 26, 2010 12:57 pm; edited 2 times in total
Wed May 26, 2010 12:31 pm

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Wed May 26, 2010 12:31 pm linkquote
ramblerdan wrote:
rjeffb wrote:
where would somebody pick one of these punches up?
Click on the photo in my post above! You might also find 'em at a well-equipped hardware store or Sears.
1. How on earth did you do that? I had no idea you could associate a link with a picture.

2. Less than $6 for an entire SET? I thought they'd be, I dunno, ten or twenty bucks each. That is literally cheap enough to buy a set, use them one time to install the brackets, and toss them in the toolbox on the offhand chance you might need them again some day. Thanks!
Wed May 26, 2010 1:27 pm

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Location: New York City
Wed May 26, 2010 1:27 pm linkquote
OK what I got out of the diagram is that the stabilizing force is more than the torque so we don't need even more stabilizing force. Something like that. Where's the Advil?
Wed May 26, 2010 2:59 pm

Ossessionato
2009 MP3 400
Joined: 27 Jul 2008
Posts: 2009
Location: Saratoga, N.Y.
 
Ossessionato
2009 MP3 400
Joined: 27 Jul 2008
Posts: 2009
Location: Saratoga, N.Y.
Wed May 26, 2010 2:59 pm linkquote
Sorry for the temporary threadjack (I am enjoying the discussion of vectors), but to answer Rjeffb's question:

It's just a photo tag wrapped in a link tag:
[url=http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html]
[img]http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/
  image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_575.jpg[/img]
[/url]
Note that the code above is broken into multiple lines for illustration purposes; you actually want it all on one line. Also, by "tag" I literally mean "pair of tags."

As for Harbor Freight, their stuff tends to be on the cheap side, so many of their tools are best suited to casual, hobby use. But it's a great resource for a lot of stuff.

BTW the new brackets are so cool, they make me wish I needed a pair.
Thu May 27, 2010 11:41 am

Member
piaggio mp3 500
Joined: 18 Mar 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Marina del Rey, CA
 
Member
piaggio mp3 500
Joined: 18 Mar 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Marina del Rey, CA
Thu May 27, 2010 11:41 am linkquote
foot pegs
I ordered a pair of FOLD-UP ROUND O-RING FOOT PEGS from JC Whitney .

First, thing i noticed was they were heavy. The shipping weight was 3lbs 8oz . Maybe then need to be. I don't know.
Second, the mounting screw was too long. Maybe i can have it cut down.
Third, the henge is really loose. Like they might bounce a little if my feet are not on them. And there is really no way they would stay in the up position. Perhaps, I can add some washers.
Four, these are really really long ( 5-1/4"L). That worries me.

I dont know if i will keep them. I did notice JC Whitney has the
elliptical pegs on sale for $18.99. They were $60 before.
I went to the local Harley store the have a 40 dollar kit that has a spring henge in it. Seemed pretty cool. If it fit the bracket i could then use any harley pegs.
=============
so now i returning mine and also ordering CUSTOM-MOUNT ELLIPTICAL RAIL FOOT PEGS . They are on sale and if you order before May 31 you can get additional 15% off using Promo Code: BUYJCW2.



Last edited by dmosh on Thu May 27, 2010 2:23 pm; edited 3 times in total
Thu May 27, 2010 12:01 pm

Molto Verboso
2010 GTS 300, 2008 MP3 500
Joined: 25 Jul 2008
Posts: 1284
Location: Rathdrum, ID
 
Molto Verboso
2010 GTS 300, 2008 MP3 500
Joined: 25 Jul 2008
Posts: 1284
Location: Rathdrum, ID
Thu May 27, 2010 12:01 pm linkquote
Re: foot pegs
dmosh wrote:
...I don't know if i will keep them. I did notice JC Whitney has the
elliptical pegs on sale for $18.99. They were $60 before...
Thanks for the tip. Ordered a set, and noticed that they have these on sale for $15.15 a set. No tax to CA. I ordered these too and will keep the ones I like the best.
Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:50 am

Moderatus Rana
MP3 250 and 2 MP3 500s
Joined: 11 Jul 2008
Posts: 22154
Location: Nashville, Indiana
 
Moderatus Rana
MP3 250 and 2 MP3 500s
Joined: 11 Jul 2008
Posts: 22154
Location: Nashville, Indiana
Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:50 am linkquote
Re: foot pegs
dmosh wrote:
I ordered a pair of FOLD-UP ROUND O-RING FOOT PEGS from JC Whitney .

First, thing i noticed was they were heavy. The shipping weight was 3lbs 8oz . Maybe then need to be. I don't know.
Second, the mounting screw was too long. Maybe i can have it cut down.
Third, the henge is really loose. Like they might bounce a little if my feet are not on them. And there is really no way they would stay in the up position. Perhaps, I can add some washers.
Four, these are really really long ( 5-1/4"L). That worries me.

I dont know if i will keep them. I did notice JC Whitney has the
elliptical pegs on sale for $18.99. They were $60 before.
I went to the local Harley store the have a 40 dollar kit that has a spring henge in it. Seemed pretty cool. If it fit the bracket i could then use any harley pegs.
=============
so now i returning mine and also ordering CUSTOM-MOUNT ELLIPTICAL RAIL FOOT PEGS . They are on sale and if you order before May 31 you can get additional 15% off using Promo Code: BUYJCW2.

Yep, those are the ones I got and love them so far. Wish I got them on sale though.
Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:53 am

Moderatus Rana
MP3 250 and 2 MP3 500s
Joined: 11 Jul 2008
Posts: 22154
Location: Nashville, Indiana
 
Moderatus Rana
MP3 250 and 2 MP3 500s
Joined: 11 Jul 2008
Posts: 22154
Location: Nashville, Indiana
Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:53 am linkquote
rjeffb wrote:
Sticky, I know you're on a trip up north, but when you get back can you try the longer screws I mailed you both 6mm out and 11mm out, and verify that front and back you still have at least two threads past fully inserted? Thanks a million...or at least 10mm...
Just got back last night. Got the screws you sent and will check them tonight.
Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:49 am

Moderatus Rana
MP3 250 and 2 MP3 500s
Joined: 11 Jul 2008
Posts: 22154
Location: Nashville, Indiana
 
Moderatus Rana
MP3 250 and 2 MP3 500s
Joined: 11 Jul 2008
Posts: 22154
Location: Nashville, Indiana
Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:49 am linkquote
Put the new screws in last night. There is appox. 11mm of thread showing with the screw barley started in the forward slots.
Wed Jun 02, 2010 5:55 pm

Hooked
Piaggio MP3 400 - 2008
Joined: 17 Aug 2008
Posts: 207
Location: New York City
 
Hooked
Piaggio MP3 400 - 2008
Joined: 17 Aug 2008
Posts: 207
Location: New York City
Wed Jun 02, 2010 5:55 pm linkquote
Rjeffb sent me extra screws and I mounted Kurakyn ISO-pegs into his brackets. A bit pricey, but I had the pegs left-over from last year when I tried to jerry-rig a standard motorcycle footpeg mounting bracket. The pegs are not round, they have a flat side that can be rotated by using an Allen wrench



Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:23 am

Bracketmeister
Bracketmeister Emeritus (retired)
Joined: 03 Jun 2009
Posts: 2519
Location: New Jersey
 
Bracketmeister
Bracketmeister Emeritus (retired)
Joined: 03 Jun 2009
Posts: 2519
Location: New Jersey
Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:23 am linkquote
Greetings from Poland
Turbojav and I had a number of PMs discussing those pegs. I am so glad they wound up fitting, they look great as I knew they would. Kurakyn makes the nicest, albeit most pricey, stuff on the market. Turbojav, can you explain exactly what you bought (including any adapters) and if not self-evident, any modifications you had to make?

Hey, here's an important point for purchasers, which I have updated the first post concerning. We just had a brackets set go missing It took a devil of a time figuring out what happened, which was: MV member PMs me his address. Now, I generally pay no attention to that because by the time the payment arrives there could be dozens of PMs in-between, including several from the same member. I just go off the address on the check or, as many members have thought to do, on the address on a slip of paper in the envelope. But in this case, the check was electronically generated and sent from a bank. It is not clear if the address on the check was the member's old address that never got updated, or if it was the address of the bank itself, but either way it was dead wrong. (I'll be able to answer that question when I get home and read the tracking slip, which contains the mailing address...all I have right now is a ZIP code). So if anyone is going to have somebody else send me a check, be sure to mention that fact in a PM so I can specifically watch for that. Even better would be to state your name, screen name, and the word "address" in the message header (as opposed to #7 of 12 PMs with the title "re: Pegs").

Oh and thanks for the info Sticky re: screws, that's extremely useful info as I am almost out of screws (because I had to send out a second set to basically everybody). BTW, OAD did not get the second set of screws so if you are expecting screws inthe mail and did not receive them let me know. OAD suggested that two screws in an envelope may jam the mail sorting machine so I'll have to figure out a better way of sending them!
Fri Jun 04, 2010 10:49 am

Enthusiast
2009 MP3 500
Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 53
Location: Columbia TN
 
Enthusiast
2009 MP3 500
Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 53
Location: Columbia TN
Fri Jun 04, 2010 10:49 am linkquote
Re: Greetings from Poland
rjeffb wrote:
Oh and thanks for the info Sticky re: screws, that's extremely useful info as I am almost out of screws (because I had to send out a second set to basically everybody). BTW, OAD did not get the second set of screws so if you are expecting screws inthe mail and did not receive them let me know. OAD suggested that two screws in an envelope may jam the mail sorting machine so I'll have to figure out a better way of sending them!
Hey Jeff. I work for the Postal Service and OAD is probably correct. If you are just putting them in a normal envelope and throwing a couple of stamps on there there is a good possibility the letter sorting maching is gonna rip them up and damage them and other peoples letters around them.
I would strongly suggest you put them in a small padded envelope and mail them as a package (parcel). Probably run about $1.39 or so for first class postage depending on weight. I had PM'd about a set also but havent received mine either as of yet. I got the stock top screws to finally work with brackets but barely. Im sure there's not much thread holding them in. Let me know if you need me to PM you my address again or what I need to do. Thanks so much. I love the brackets!
Fri Jun 04, 2010 12:53 pm

Bracketmeister
Bracketmeister Emeritus (retired)
Joined: 03 Jun 2009
Posts: 2519
Location: New Jersey
 
Bracketmeister
Bracketmeister Emeritus (retired)
Joined: 03 Jun 2009
Posts: 2519
Location: New Jersey
Fri Jun 04, 2010 12:53 pm linkquote
Re: Greetings from Poland
Robbc123 wrote:
Hey Jeff. I work for the Postal Service and OAD is probably correct. If you are just putting them in a normal envelope and throwing a couple of stamps on there there is a good possibility the letter sorting maching is gonna rip them up and damage them and other peoples letters around them.
I would strongly suggest you put them in a small padded envelope and mail them as a package (parcel). Probably run about $1.39 or so for first class postage depending on weight. I had PM'd about a set also but havent received mine either as of yet. I got the stock top screws to finally work with brackets but barely. Im sure there's not much thread holding them in. Let me know if you need me to PM you my address again or what I need to do. Thanks so much. I love the brackets!
Thanks Rob, hang in there because OAD just reported that the screws showed up - it took an aweful long time for them to get there since he was one of the first people I sent an extra set to, but in any event there's still hope. To be precise, I taped the two screws to a piece of cardboard and put the whole thing in an envelope, but it's true that putting them in a padded envelope would have been a lot smarter. "Continuous Improvement Opportunity" for those of you who work in an ISO9001 environment.

Anyway, when I return I'll PM everybody expecting a set to see if they ever showed up.
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