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What exactually does the EVAP system do on our scooters? Does it make them run better, last longer, get better mph or do they even need them at all.
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It is perhaps more problematic than beneficial to most...you can do a search to review.
Then you can make a decision on whether to remove or leave alone...if you opt to remove the evaporator system...there are really two parts to consider...evaporator hose disconnect and overflow hose (there is a posting in Wiki Library for the evap hose disconnect). You can see the link below for the disconnect of overflow hose from the filler neck (fuel tank) that goes down to the roll over flow valve or evaporator canister. Fuel overflow hose disconnect from roll over valve (GT200) See the link below for a diagram of the evaporation system. Complete evap system removal? |
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I simply disconnected the hose that attaches from the fuel tank to the roll over valve.
But I think it would of been a smarter idea to leave the gas tank hose attached to the roll over valve, and instead disconnect the hose that connects roll over valve to the canister. |
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So what's the purpose of even having these on our scooters? I see alot of post where people remove them, just like the past post of you guys removing them. Why?
I know it seems they cause trouble when overflowing the tanks. |
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Himfilth wrote: So what's the purpose of even having these on our scooters? I see alot of post where people remove them, just like the past post of you guys removing them. Why? I know it seems they cause trouble when overflowing the tanks. |
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If the roll-over valve fails, you could get dangerous gas tank pressure buildup. When your tank gets over-filled, it can pour into your air-filter.
You can also get vapor-lock causing starting problems. I took the whole thing out of my 150. I made my write-up from looking mostly at 200 and 250 evap systems. They are set-up a bit different, but are mostly the same. LX150 Complete EVAP System Removal You could just disconnect the hose from the carburetor, or you can take out the whole system. If your worried about rolling your scooter, you can leave the roll-over valve on, just re-route the hose to the ground so you don't have gas pouring all over in your engine compartment when you over-fill your tank. |
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
GTS 300ABS, Buddy Kick 125
Joined: UTC
Posts: 13563 Location: Oregon City, OR |
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On a carburetted engine such as the GT200, the mod can be done by inserting a "T" between the carb and the overflow system. That serves both the purpose of venting the carb to the atmoshere and a drain for liquid gas that gets into the evap system. An interesting thing about modding in this way is that it allows you to restore the evap system to intended function by simpling placing a vacuum plug over the open end of the "T". After some experimentation with and without the plug, I found that the majority of problems blamed on the evap system actually have other causes.
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Dooglas wrote: On a carburetted engine such as the GT200, the mod can be done by inserting a "T" between the carb and the overflow system. That serves both the purpose of venting the carb to the atmoshere and a drain for liquid gas that gets into the evap system. An interesting thing about modding in this way is that it allows you to restore the evap system to intended function by simpling placing a vacuum plug over the open end of the "T". After some experimentation with and without the plug, I found that the majority of problems blamed on the evap system actually have other causes. |
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XLR8 wrote: If I am correctly understanding what Dooglas is saying, you would put a "T" between the "out" of the charcoal canister and the "in" of the carb. If that is what he's saying, this would not stop the canister from becoming saturated with gas from an overfill and you could still have the same problems that you would have without the "T" since the tank would not be able to vent through a clogged canister. |
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Disconnected the evap the second day of ownership.
Searched on here, read the wiki and all the threads. Seems that NOBODY on here really understands the problem. Very simple, with a simple solution, no need to remove the entire system. Problem lies with the CV carb -- has to do with how CV carbs function -- line that connects to evap system from carb is the ONLY problem. To prove it to yourself disconnect this line, plug the evap system end and start the bike. Alternately cover and uncover the carb end while the bike is running and note the effect on performance. Covered bike idles poorly and stalls, uncovered bike runs fine. That's it, that's all you need to do. DISCONNECT THE CARB LINE. No need for a filter on the carb end as there is no intake vacuum present. No need to remove the full system with it's safety and environmental functions. |
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From this thread by Jess (owner of the MV forum): ET/GT/LX: Hard Starting, Rough Idle, or Stalling
"If you intend to leave the hose disconnected permanently, it would be prudent to affix a small foam filter to the hose inlet on the carbeurator to prevent dust or debris from entering through this hole. Under no circumstances should you completely block the inlet on the carbeurator. Another possible solution would be to leave the evaporation hose connected to the carbeurator but to fit a hose-T inline to the evaporation hose, again with a small foam filter on the end of the T to allow air to pass into the hose." |
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bluecloud wrote: Disconnected the evap the second day of ownership. Searched on here, read the wiki and all the threads. Seems that NOBODY on here really understands the problem. Very simple, with a simple solution, no need to remove the entire system. Problem lies with the CV carb -- has to do with how CV carbs function -- line that connects to evap system from carb is the ONLY problem. To prove it to yourself disconnect this line, plug the evap system end and start the bike. Alternately cover and uncover the carb end while the bike is running and note the effect on performance. Covered bike idles poorly and stalls, uncovered bike runs fine. That's it, that's all you need to do. DISCONNECT THE CARB LINE. No need for a filter on the carb end as there is no intake vacuum present. No need to remove the full system with it's safety and environmental functions. Saturating the charcoal filter can happen if you have fuel enter and saturate the charcoal filter via the overflow tube. |
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I have had several occasions of pressure being release from the gas tank when opening it. I'm going to give it some time, I have'nt that I known of had many issues yet with it. But putting the "T" between the carb and the overflow system seems what I might go for in the future.
I have had this issue, but not sure if its cause of the EVAP or not Won't start This happens EVERYTIME I drive long distance, or on the scooter for a long period of time. |
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Your problem is being caused by the pressure in the tank due to the Evap not venting it enough. There have been numerous reports of this on all models that have the EVAP system. (North American Models only). We usually see more of these problems when the weather turns hot. Disconnecting the Evap will solve the problem. Maybe putting a "T" in the overflow hose will stop the pressure but it will probably need to be a large "T" because if the tank is not vented well, you'll continue to have the problem.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
GTS 300ABS, Buddy Kick 125
Joined: UTC
Posts: 13563 Location: Oregon City, OR |
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XLR8 wrote: If I am correctly understanding what Dooglas is saying, you would put a "T" between the "out" of the charcoal canister and the "in" of the carb. If that is what he's saying, this would not stop the canister from becoming saturated with gas from an overfill and you could still have the same problems that you would have without the "T" since the tank would not be able to vent through a clogged canister.
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Just wanted to add a note.
I was having no issues with my gt 200 starting or stalling but after 2 years or ownership and reading the posts about the evap system decided to disconnect it. I cut the hose by the carburetor put a piece of foam over the end going into the carb and plugged the end going to the canister. The 200 ran better and my gas mileage increase by an average of 4 miles per gallon. I recently disconnected the evap system on my 300. This time I plugged the hose going to the carb and ran the hose from the tank to the ground. ( I will probably put the rollover back in the system.)I don't know if there is any difference in performance ( it seems a little smoother) but my mileage has gone from an average of 63.5 mpg to 71 for the last 2 tanks. I don't know if I can attribute the increased mileage completely to disconnecting the evap system. A week before I did the evap system I opened the air box a little and installed a hi flo air filter. But I did not notice the increased mileage until I did the evap system mod. mgg |
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mgg wrote: Just wanted to add a note. I recently disconnected the evap system on my 300. This time I plugged the hose going to the carb mgg |
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Gas mileage decreased after EVAP mod
After disconnecting the EVAP hose from the carburetor on my 2009 S150, I stuffed some air filter foam in the inlet on the carburetor and left the disconnected EVAP hose open to ground.
I noticed a decreased in gas mileage, unlike the previous poster's experience... am I supposed to plug the hose after disconnecting it? |
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I removed it from my GTS300, it actually made it perform better. And the gas tank does not get pressurized. And when its so much easier to un-screw the gas cap.
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For the 2015 bv350 it's fuel injected. The system looks a bit different than the image above. It looks like a line comes off the fuel tank to the roll over valve to the canister to the throttle body.
Ive seen some people block off the line to the throttle body and put a filter on the fuel tank area. Ive also see someone block off the throttle body and the fuel tank line and drill a hole in the fuel lid. Talking to my buddy he said get a one way check valve with charcoal in it then connect the throttle body and fuel tank line with the check valve in line. So much info out there what do you guys think. Below is a image of the setup. In the bv350 the evap takes up like 30% of the under seat storage and makes stuff under the seat smell like gas.
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On the newer 3 valve 150 engine, I wonder if anyone is having the same issues. The pressure builds in my tank pushing air out when I unscrew and it back fires upon slowing down. Every other Scooter I have had had issues with the evap. This one is maybe needs a removal as well. Then I can get the European pet carrier for more room under the seat.
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just get rid of it. it does nothing for you other than potentially cause headaches. it prevents tiny amounts of gasoline vapors from getting int the air, that's all.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
GTS 300ABS, Buddy Kick 125
Joined: UTC
Posts: 13563 Location: Oregon City, OR |
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specalk wrote: In the bv350 the evap takes up like 30% of the under seat storage and makes stuff under the seat smell like gas. |
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RIP
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SPEC good idea to start your own tread since this one is 7yrs old. The OP isn't even on here anymore.
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Anyone remove the evap on a new 150? If so, what did you do with the existing tubing? Did you reroute so that you would have a drain to the ground should the scooter end up on it's side?
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Dooglas wrote: specalk wrote: In the bv350 the evap takes up like 30% of the under seat storage and makes stuff under the seat smell like gas. |
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Molto Verboso
2006 Suzuki S40 - 1978 Puch Pinto (sold) - 2006 Piaggio BV250 (R.I.P.)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1092 Location: Carlsbad, California |
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Molto Verboso
2006 Suzuki S40 - 1978 Puch Pinto (sold) - 2006 Piaggio BV250 (R.I.P.)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1092 Location: Carlsbad, California |
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If it makes it smell like gas then I'm pretty sure something is off or loose on your evap system. My BV250 never smelled like gas under the seat
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
GTS 300ABS, Buddy Kick 125
Joined: UTC
Posts: 13563 Location: Oregon City, OR |
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specalk wrote: I don't like having the gas smell under the seat. |
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Molto Verboso
2006 Suzuki S40 - 1978 Puch Pinto (sold) - 2006 Piaggio BV250 (R.I.P.)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1092 Location: Carlsbad, California |
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Molto Verboso
2006 Suzuki S40 - 1978 Puch Pinto (sold) - 2006 Piaggio BV250 (R.I.P.)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1092 Location: Carlsbad, California |
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specalk wrote: My bv has about 800 miles on it lol. |
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TheNaughtyLemur wrote: specalk wrote: My bv has about 800 miles on it lol. |
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Ossessionato
Red Devil SH150i (11,000)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3341 Location: Orange Park Florida |
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Ossessionato
Red Devil SH150i (11,000)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3341 Location: Orange Park Florida |
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My 2014 was purchased in Dec. 2013. It has the 2013 style oil filter cap. I'd bet the 2015 has the same mapping software that solved my stalling issues. It still stalls at startup, but not while running. Like it did before the mapping software update. Disconnecting the EVAP didn't solve my stalling. I removed the EVAP for space only. 30% space savings is an exaggeration
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My '16 BV350's vapor system has no gas smell, the loss of space is ~15% and is there for a reason that I agree with: petrol vapor is a constituent of smog. I have no interest in adding to air pollution. That's one of the reasons that scoot's are so attractive; their small footprint. I'm off the soap box now. You're turn!
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SCTLVR wrote: My '16 BV350's vapor system has no gas smell, the loss of space is ~15% and is there for a reason that I agree with: petrol vapor is a constituent of smog. I have no interest in adding to air pollution. That's one of the reasons that scoot's are so attractive; their small footprint. I'm off the soap box now. You're turn! |
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