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So my Anant is returned, and I found a vintage Stanley on ebay. It arrived today and I'm cleaning it.

For tuning it properly, I have this question: does the front edge of the frog have to align with the rear edge of the bevel of the throat?

In the picture, I've marked the bevel in yellow, the two edges in red.

Does the blade have to sit planely on and parallel to the frog, or is it okay if the blade just sits on the throat's bevel and rests on the frog somewhere higher up?

I understand that this is a very detailed question, but from what I've seen in the posts so far, some of you are quite into it and might just have the answers, so I don't have to go search for a woodworker forum.

Thank you!

PS: Yes, that is oxydation (ebay-speak for rust). I will clean it all nicely.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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read it
the frog moves back n forth for different types of timber and different grains ... ive never moved mine so i say leave it and just sharpen that blade

any reason you didnt buy an electric plane??? no power???
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Molto Verboso
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The plane iron should fully contact the frog. This is to keep the blade from chattering. The plane iron is placed with the bevel down. This way, the angle of cut is controlled by the frog, not by the sharpening angle.
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So, chukstr, are you saying my frog needs to move forward to align with the (red) edge of the throat?

T5bitsa69, I have power, but a hand tool runs without it
I'm an old fart and wanted a hand tool.
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Molto Verboso
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Not necessarily. With the bevel of the plane iron toward the frog, it creates additional clearance to the mouth of the sole. Your frog may need to move a little bit, but not all the way.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

You can see in this diagram how the bevel itself creates a gap from the frog to the mouth edge. Then, the chipper is on top of the plane iron, with its edge aligned very close to the cutting edge.
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Molto Verboso
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Here are a couple pictures of my Lie-Nielsen 4 1/2, which cuts like a dream.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

You can see there is a gap from the frog (brass colored) to the edge of the mouth. You can also see the adjustment screws, which allow me to move the frog back and forth.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Here you see from the bottom (looking from the front of the plane toward the back) how the bevel creates the clearance so that the blade clears the mouth.

Hope this helps.
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Yeah, rub it in! That LN is wonderful and explains the price. My cast iron Stanley is in quite a smaller league.

That said, I see what you are explaining, and I think I adjusted to about the same position of the frog. It all works nicely now and I'm getting decent shaves. The blade does need some work, though.

Strangely, I found that both the blade and the chipper don't have a 90° angle. See picture below, where an approximate 90° is drawn in for both the blade and the chipper. While the blade may have been ground at an off-angle, the chipper looks like it is original. So, it appears to me that all of this is on purpose, so the blade runs a bit diagonal over the wood, even if you hold the plane parallel to the wood. Could this be desired, or do I need to re-work the blade? If so, do I leave the chipper as it is, which would not allow for a parallel edge with the blade?
The breaker sits farther back just for the photo. It is quite parallel in its off-angle with the blade.
The breaker sits farther back just for the photo. It is quite parallel in its off-angle with the blade.
That's better than anything I've had so far but it shows that the blade needs to be honed at least.
That's better than anything I've had so far but it shows that the blade needs to be honed at least.
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Windbreaker - I can't think of a good reason in an all-purpose plane to have the blade at an angle to the sole. I would try to square it up. You'll probably need a grinder of some sort for that. Make sure it is a low speed grinder so you don't heat up the blade and lose its temper. I have a Tormek for that purpose, but I have a lot of tools (and kitchen knives) to sharpen.

Otherwise, it looks good. The shavings look good.
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chukstr wrote:
I can't think of a good reason in an all-purpose plane to have the blade at an angle to the sole. I would try to square it up.
I would find someone with the right grinder (and experience).

But what about the chipper? With its curve, it can't be squared up.
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Molto Verboso
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Chipper isn't as important. It won't be cutting the wood.
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chukstr wrote:
From Lee Valley:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
From Home Depot:
A carriage bolt with a rounded, polished head.
A carriage bolt with a rounded, polished head.
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Re: woodworkers: plane II: how to tune it?
windbreaker wrote:
Edit: see last post for a follow up question...

I'm working on a set of lawn chairs, and I'm using cedar wood. That wood comes with rough surfaces, so I need to finish it, and all I have is a palm-size plane, designed for more intricate work.

So I'm thinking of buying the right size plane, but I remember having seen some at a woodworker's store for between $200 and $500. Way too much for what I will ever need (I don't intend to make precision furniture).

So, how much do I have to expect to spend for a decent quality tool, and would you get that from harbor freight or stay away from them, in this case?
Too bad you moved, I own a Delta 12" Planer, David
bought it for me on our 8th year Anniversary
when I started building arondike chairs, back in 1996.
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In the old days we would just drag the wood on the floor or a stone until it fit.


IBKING
Yes I go way back....old school
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windbreaker wrote:
From Home Depot:
An experienced sharpener doesn't need a guide at all. There is no doubt you can come with any number of cheap alternatives. My point was to answer the post that claimed you have to set the angle by eye. There are guides out there with calibrated angle setting.
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not always
windbreaker wrote:
From Home Depot:
how do you use that on a stone..... it looke like youll barely be able to use 1" at the end

just hold blad in both hands ..., relax shoulders and go for it ... not figure 8 as thatll wear stone uneven
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Re: not always
Chukstr, sorry, I didn't mean to ridicule more sophisticated rigs, and I am definitely not an experienced sharpener, so any additional help is welcome. On the other hand, I don't think I'll become a full-time woodworker, so a rig (plus a stone!) would cost four times the investment on the plane, and that wouldn't seem to make sense in my case.
T5bitsa69 wrote:
how do you use that on a stone..... it looke like youll barely be able to use 1" at the end
I don't have a stone. I will use emery cloth with different grits on a slab of granite, and that way I will have a stroke length of 15cm.

This is just for the initial work, to maintain the proper angle, while I am working to get a squared, and then slightly cambered edge. Later, for subsequent quick sharpenings, I don't think I'll need that anymore.
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to go from sharp to scary sharp, I made a 10 wheel for my grinder out of MDF, and charged it with emery.
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double bubble
windbreaker wrote:
I will have a stroke length of 15cm.
really
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Re: double bubble
T5bitsa69 wrote:
windbreaker wrote:
I will have a stroke length of 15cm.
really
Okay then, effektive Schleiflänge Razz emoticon Go Germany!
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talking head
tis ok i hate football cant see the money in it .... rugby league now ya talking
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Molto Verboso
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Re: talking head
T5bitsa69 wrote:
tis ok i hate football cant see the money in it .... rugby league now ya talking
My ex-boss, and ex-Brit who played rugby always said "Soccer is a gentlemen's game played by hooligans, and rugby is a hooligan's game played by gentlemen." Would you agree with that?
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other side
he was probably talking about union... league is just played by tallented lunatics with zero fear
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