UTC

Member
Joined: UTC
Posts: 19
Location: Greenville, SC
 
Member
Joined: UTC
Posts: 19
Location: Greenville, SC
UTC quote
Freakin' Awesome!!! Clap emoticon
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
The return from the Dempster.
Eagle Plains to Dawson City

As I didn't stay too late in the bar and the fact they close at 2300 I got to bed relatively early. The blackout curtains helped immensely.

I got up at 0500. This surprised me so much I checked not only my watch, the bedside clock I went out and checked the clock on the scooter. Yep, 0500. And that damn sun was as bright as the noon day sun - which would be the same sun. It was bright.

I packed and loaded up the scooter then went down to have breakfast. Uh, breakfast isn't served until 0700. 0700? That's the middle of the morning! My picture of the hard living, take no prisoners' northern trucker was shattered. They can't get up for breakfast earlier than 0700? Pussies! Or Pussey I'm not sure as I haven't used that word since high school. I think I've gotten quite a peek behind the curtain. I'm pretty sure there was more than one pink teddy bear unpacked last night at Eagle Plains.

So I walked around a bit in that damn bright sun. After about 5 minutes I'd pretty much seen everything. I headed back to the room. At a side door I found an empty bottle of vodka draped with a pair of panties. My first thought was, 'did I drink vodka last night'? No. One thing for sure no trucker was involved because whatever went down was way past their bedtime.

Ordering breakfast in Eagle Plains is quite simple; 'Yukoner, over easy, white.' You have just set into motion a series of events that will bring you gastronomic pleasure. Don't even open the menu. Assuming they even have any left as they only had one for the entire complex when I was there.

What a breakfast. Oh my god, what a breakfast. If I wasn't at the tip of known civilization and had a 9 hour journey in front of me I would have gone back to my room, took a 3 hour nap, gotten back up and do it all over again. It's that good.

But I didn't. I gassed up - which I might add doesn't open until 0800. I saw a few motorcyclists loading up gear as I was pulling out. Oh, I grabbed 2 Snickers bars and a diet Coke on the way out.

It had rained the night before but the road was compact with few slick areas. The areas that had been soft yesterday were pretty hard and solid outbound.

I ran into fewer areas under repair than I had on the way in. However, I did come across more large trucks than I had the day before. A few areas that were still dry were somewhat of a problem with the increased truck traffic as the dust was really bad. I can see now why they are constantly wetting the surface. It was 'whiteout' conditions when the trucks are passing. I couldn't even see 20 feet in front of me after a truck passed.
One surprising thing was I passed a sidecar on the way out. He waved as he went by. He had a knobby tire sticking out of the sidecar. Even more surprising was I passed three more sidecars about 15 minutes later!

I stopped about 140 miles from Eagle Plains and gassed up from the single can. I also ate the 2 Snickers bars and drank the diet Coke.

There was a little rain and a few low clouds obscuring the sun. I finished about 8 hours after starting. I made far better time because, I believe, I was a little more confident in my ability and there were no real hazards on the road.

I stopped at the Dempster sign and got my picture taken. Chatted a bit with someone on a 1200GS who I had passed earlier in the day but had turned around because of the road conditions! Nice guy but dude, if a scooter is outbound, it's clear for you to be inbound. Isn't that a Led Zeppelin song?

I gassed up at the Kodiak and made the run to Dawson City. There was a weekend musical festival going on in the city. Earlier I had seen the tents going up and had spoken to someone affiliated with the show about what groups were appearing. He either spoke Greek or I'm really stupid when it comes to popular music. People were all over the streets when I rode in.

I stopped at the Aurora Inn and snagged the last room. It may have been the last room in the city, as I was registering a steady flow of people stopped in looking for a room.

Done.

Hindsight is 20/20:

1) I would have liked a more aggressive tread on the tires. I needed new front tires and even with the 'slick' tread I would have gone on to Inuvik with new tires.

2) Pack more food. Maybe not. It's nice to stop and snack but if you break down you'll eat within a few hours. Ok, more food.

3) Is the SPOT necessary? No. To me it's more of a fun thing so friends can watch your progress or lack of it. Someone WILL stop and help you. If you have a life threatening injury that requires immediate treatment you're probably going to die anyway and the SPOT will not help.

I was a Paramedic (NREMT-P) for 13 years and there is only so much you can do in the field. If you were to have your injury right in front of the highway response team you might have a chance.

4) A few tools, tire repair and... that's it.

Step out of the box; take a deep breath, walk outside, throw a leg over the seat (or slide in like a 10 year old girl), get off, go back in and grab the keys you forgot and go.

It's doable.

Its 20% physical, 80% mental, but most things are.

I did it with zero experience, zero. The furthest I went before I left was a few miles from where I was staying because they had beer in case lots on sale. And I love a sale.

Was it blind luck? I'd like to think not. I just did it. I didn't know I was supposed to fail, I didn't know I wasn't supposed to ride up the Dempster.

Naive, sure but not frozen with fear.

Drop me a message and some pics when you arrive.
Eagle Plains gas station.
Eagle Plains gas station.
I swear, I have no idea whose panties those were.  Ok, screw the panties: Yukoner, over easy, white!
I swear, I have no idea whose panties those were. Ok, screw the panties: Yukoner, over easy, white!
The Dempster changes color with the local rock/gravel they are using on the road.
The Dempster changes color with the local rock/gravel they are using on the road.
Beautiful.  I would love to see this place on a clear day.
Beautiful. I would love to see this place on a clear day.
If only I could take a picture that truly showed what that bit of light was doing on the mountain peak I'd give up and turn around.  How can you not be awed by this?
If only I could take a picture that truly showed what that bit of light was doing on the mountain peak I'd give up and turn around. How can you not be awed by this?
Holy Shit!  Somebody on a scooter drove up the Dempster!  Ok, part of the way.  Should I get a beret instead of wearing a ball cap?
Holy Shit! Somebody on a scooter drove up the Dempster! Ok, part of the way. Should I get a beret instead of wearing a ball cap?
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 1 time
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
Next...
...the run to Anchorage and new tires.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
Soon...
...the Dalton Highway. This time I'm carrying a vegetable sandwich and 2 bottles of water.
Just getting to the sign is way crazy.
Just getting to the sign is way crazy.
@g03 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
MP3 500 08
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1560
Location: Toms River area, New Jersey
 
Molto Verboso
@g03 avatar
MP3 500 08
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1560
Location: Toms River area, New Jersey
UTC quote
Later when u get back home and settle in, these pictures will bring back "grins that hurt"! Glad u have a nice camera to save the history!
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
July 17, 2010 Dawson City to Whitehorse
I didn't get much sleep as the music festival seemed to drag on all night. Those goddamn kids and their loud music!

It started raining as I was loading the scooter to leave. Last night I got fuel at the Shell/Sears catalog service center down from the Aurora Inn. I left behind the 1 gallon gas can I had purchased a few days before.

At the Kodiak station where the Dempster starts you can rent gas cans.

I looked at this as a day to make some miles. I was backtracking to Whitehorse as the road to Alaska was out. How can a road to a state be out?

This was, of course, essentially the run in reverse from a few days ago.

For most of the distance road just has that rural backwoods feel. Weeds and small plants are growing up out of the road on the edges. Like most of the northern roads you're in the middle of nowhere for long periods of time with no other traffic. I saw intermittent traffic but never more than one or two vehicles an hour for most of the day.

It was cold for several hours. I was really bundled up and with the rain it made for some miserable riding. However, I was making some good time so the effort was worth it.

All day long I was trying to replay the trip up. Where were the gas stations, where were the areas that the road was bad and why am I doing this?

I was watching my gas gauge very closely because on the way up I made it to the Kodiak gas station at the Dempster terminus with very little fuel left. Now on the reverse trip I should be able to get from the Dawson City to this mythical station in the Yukon. You would think so.

The gauge kept going down and down. I pictured this station as being on a hill that I had to climb out of when I left it for Dawson City. Lower and lower. Where in the heck was this station?

It just kept getting lower as I racked my brain on the location of the next station. I knew I was using more fuel on this run as I was travelling at a faster pace but I thought that the difference would be pretty insignificant.

A few times I started to pull over and fill up with the spare fuel but at the last minute I kept travelling. I wasn't going to run it dry, I hoped, I just knew there was a station just up the road.

There was but not as close as I thought. I didn't run out but I imagine I was within a few yards of coasting to a stop. I've never seen a gas gauge that low.

It was outside Carmacks. When I had been on the inbound run the mail-order bride working the counter was on the phone and never put it down once. Well she was still on the phone and never put it down the entire time I was in the store this time. Hopefully they are on an unlimited minutes plan.

On and on. The rain tapered off but it was still cool. I was making relatively good time and I hoped to get into Whitehorse at an early hour. No worries about the sun as I've never seen it set for days.

A few sections of gravel outside Whitehorse and I was there. I hadn't made reservations so I drove around and found a room at the Stratford. Not the newest but certainly not the worst of the bunch in Whitehorse.

While I was unloading some guy, think a skinny Paulie Sr. but with no hope of a bright future, pulled in with a noisy Harley. He asked about the spare gas can as I was unloading. I told him that I've had to use it a few times. His reply was a sneering, "Oh, small tank." I took it to as a slight which it probably wasn't. I said, "Yeah, I had to use on the run up the Dempster to the Arctic Circle." His head whipped around so hard the dangling skull earring he was wearing hit his sunglasses. He stared. I stared. I went to the room. Not another word was said.

Oh, it was nice and sunny in Whitehorse.

340 miles
This is what a low gas gauge looks like in the middle of nowhere.
This is what a low gas gauge looks like in the middle of nowhere.
Yukon Crossing.
Yukon Crossing.
Yukon Crossing.
Yukon Crossing.
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 4 times
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
July 18, 2010 Whitehorse to Tok
Whitehorse to Tok

I overslept. I'm seeing a trend here. I put in about 12 hours horizontal. Even more surprising was I didn't even hear the Harleys fire up this morning and ride off. Unless of course a trailer pulled in and picked them up late at night. Not out of the realm of possibilities.

The weather looked great. Blue skies and mild temps. I didn't bundle up as much today.

The Stratford is fine but the WiFi sucks. If your advertising that you have WiFi then make sure it works. It crapped out after about 1/2 hour with me trying to make a reservation for a room today.

I set my GPS for Anchorage. Its 705 miles away! Did they move it? I'm not sure I can do it. I'd like to get in tonight so I can contact the Piaggio dealer about new tires and service.

The GPS had a turn about 145 km out of town. As I rode out of Whitehorse, hopefully never to see it again, I was thinking did I pass a turn for Anchorage yesterday and continue on to Whitehorse? I would have hated to miss a turn and then do another 100 miles that I'd have to ride today.

So I pulled into a gas station to ask about the ride to Anchorage. The turn is at Haines Junction about 145 km up the highway.

Hmm, did I go through Haines Junction yesterday? I'm thinking I would have noticed. Haines Junction is a name I'm familiar with.

So on the road again and there was a sign about 200 yards up from the gas station; Anchorage this way, Dawson the other way. Off to Haines Junction.

Riding away from this intersection I imagined the ride back to Dawson City as you can see the road for it a bit as you head out of town. The road to Anchorage pretty much stays in the middle of the valley while the Dawson City road runs along the mountain range.

There are some rough patches that have some repairs that have been done that are not that effective. It hurts to run over them. I thought that I could make some pretty decent time today. 700+ miles though is a long way.

About 50 miles out I saw a mountain to my left that was pretty much completely covered in snow. It has far more snow than the surrounding peaks. Late in the season or an early winter?

At about 120 miles or so Lake Kluane appears. It's huge I mean big. This is supposed to be the largest lake in Canada. I was taken aback as initially it didn't look that large. However, after travelling about 30 k along the shoreline begrudgingly I'll agree it is the largest lake in Canada. Case closed.

At the southernmost tip of the lake, heading north, you cross a bridge that has a high wind warning sign. I prepared for the worse but there was hardly any wind. It is scary though approaching the bridge as it is set out on some marsh flats at the end of the lake and a narrow valley on the other side of it. Definitely a scenario for high winds but not today.

In the road after the bridge I did see a fox that had been hit by some vehicle. This was the largest road kill I've seen other than deer in WV and Iowa. Nice pelt.

I pulled in for gas at Destruction Bay. I had to answer a few questions from the locals. On to Haines Junction.

Haines Junction caught me by surprise I thought it was going to be a much bigger town than it was. A few gas stations, motel and a gift /grocery store and that's it. Plenty of tourists passing through though in the time I sat there and ate three apple strudels from Madley's General Store.

I'm starting to notice that there seems to be an issue with turning at low speeds on the scooter. The front tires don't seem to be worn flat but on low speed turns the scooter wants to take a different path than the one I've selected. Pretty strange. At speed there are no issues it's only when I'm going slow.

Right outside Haines is a warning about bad roads until the border. Heed this warning. This section till almost the border is the worst road I've been on since the trip. Ok, maybe not. But it does rival Iowa 29 and that horrible right lane in WV.

I knew it was bad when I saw 4 large RVs coming down the road towards me and none of the 4 were on the same angle; up, down, left, right, roll into the oncoming lane, up, down, etc. It looked like a commercial for Land Rover.

This road is crap with broken segments that are miss-matched, potholes that are patched and now re-opened and the road is sagging in the center as well as on both sides. If you're not careful you can drop down into the sag and then hit the lip where the road is mismatched on the uphill side. It is quite a jarring experience. I spent a lot of time in the left lane to avoid all the bad spots. I probably drove 4-5 miles in the left lane on this road.

Early on I came to a construction zone that has a pilot car. I was back about five vehicles but the pilot car (truck) driver asked me to move to the front of the line. There were several miles of construction going on. The major thing I saw that they were doing was replacing some drainage pipe under the road. This section wasn't that bad for gravel and dirt.

Not long after this section the road worse. Large sections had completely collapsed creating very large potholes - paved swimming pools. Even in areas where there were recent it was still difficult to ride safely.

I'm not sure what happened here over the winter but it must have been bad. Something surprising I noticed was that there was no rebuilding effort. None, no equipment staged anywhere except for the drainage rebuild with the pilot car earlier. It is going to take a long time and a lot of money to get this road into shape. 100s of millions? Many, many miles need to be completely rebuilt.

I continued on and eventually a car that was behind me found a section to pass on. He had been blocking a 'big rig' that because of the road conditions hadn't been able to pass anyone. I kept it about 10 mph higher than the speed limit but this guy continued to ride my ass.

On and on we rode. I decided that I wasn't going to endanger myself by trying to keep a pace that 'Joe Trucker' thought was appropriate. I slowed when I had to and I sped up when there was room and the road was in good enough shape.

Finally we came to a sign stating 'Road Damage'. If they have a sign that says road damage on this road it has to be bad. It was. I had to thread through some sections at 15 mph in order not to lose control. The 'Steel Cowboy' just wouldn't let up though.

Finally we came up on a local native who from the line he was trying to keep had had a few too many earlier in the day. He was driving an older SUV and he was all over the road. I got right up on him and caught his eye in the rear view mirror and threw him a few gang signs I learned from watching 'The Wire', it's not TV it's HBO. He fell for it ran off the road in a cloud of dust that allowed me to squeak by him right before he did a hard left back on the road. That broken headlight was so close!

I thought I was free but when I looked back the 18-wheel bastard was running in the left lane and had missed all the mayhem. On I went.

Finally an accident to my rescue! I do feel sorry for these people because their probably still out there. They had been pulling an older tandem axle trailer and one of the tires sheared off.

The trailer was parked beside the road down on its axle. The couple was up the road a bit with the male in the ditch trying to drag what was left of the tire back onto the road. A little further on there were the lug nuts with, I'm assuming, the nuts still on them scattered on the road. A bit further on from this there were deep gouges in the road where, I assume, the trailer had dropped onto the pavement after the rim failed. I zigged and zagged to get through this and I was finally able to get away from the maniac on 18-wheels.

The Canada, inbound to Canada, passport control is located several miles before you get to the US crossing. Kind of odd. You pass the Canadian passport control and then drive quite a few miles to the US passport control. Who controls the 'middle ground', Gandof? Right before the crossing into the US at the bottom of a small hill is the 'Welcome to Alaska' sign. There is limited parking so it's a tight fit to get in and get a picture of the sign.

After the obligatory trophy shot everyone slowly crawls up the hill to the US. The wait was about 15 minutes. I think they only had 2 people working at the time I went through. I was not impressed with the professionalism of the guy that took my documents. The guy was a dick. He's been 'king' for too long.

After the border I stopped and filled up at the Border City Lodge. From the border it's about 90 miles to Tok

From the border you run on the northern side of many lakes and streams. The road is far better than the one from Haines. You still have some rough patches but nothing like what you came through on the run from Haines.

I decided to call it quits at Tok. I pulled into Fast Eddy's which looked fairly new and the parking lot was crowded. The place was packed. It was a bit of a culture shock. I had to wait in line for a table. Didn't someone call ahead?

I had the Sockeye Salmon which was excellent. However, the table next to me got spaghetti and it looked incredible.

They run a motel out of the restaurant; Young's, but there were no vacancies. I was afraid because of the road closure that it might be difficult to get a room so I pulled into the first decent motel I saw, the Snowshoe Motel and got a room.

When I pulled in there were some Harley's sitting outside on a trailer.

It was a decent room but the Wi-Fi sucks. I got up at 0500 to make a reservation and still had trouble getting to websites. After almost an hour I was able to book a room at the Holiday Inn in Anchorage and I went back to bed for awhile. If you advertise that you provide Wi-Fi then make sure it works.

Six-packs of Coronas are only $11. I'm flush with cash now.

390 miles
Stratford, Whitehorse.
Stratford, Whitehorse.
Lake Kluane.
Lake Kluane.
Lake Kluane.
Lake Kluane.
Destruction Bay gas station.
Destruction Bay gas station.
Nice welcome sign.  Now fix the damn road!
Nice welcome sign. Now fix the damn road!
Hot apple strudel.
Hot apple strudel.
Border City gas.  The owner comes off as a bit grumpy but stay and talk with him and he turns out to be a good guy.
Border City gas. The owner comes off as a bit grumpy but stay and talk with him and he turns out to be a good guy.
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 3 times
@jkessel avatar
UTC

Hooked
MP3 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 142
Location: Boca Raton Fl
 
Hooked
@jkessel avatar
MP3 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 142
Location: Boca Raton Fl
UTC quote
Monkey Butt
Really interesting read. Your doing something that most of us only dream of. As for your rear end problem next time you go by a Wally world they carry this product called MonkeyButt. It is supposed to help out the miles of rubbing on your bottom. Good luck and please keep on reporting.
UTC

Member
MP3 500
Joined: UTC
Posts: 38
Location: Austin, TX
 
Member
MP3 500
Joined: UTC
Posts: 38
Location: Austin, TX
UTC quote
Awesome work, Chiaroscuro. I sat down with a Sunday morning coffee and began reading your forum posts from start to finish - a great weekend read that transports MV readers from FL to AK on their bike of choice. It's inspired me to take a road trip of my own.
@turkman avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2009 GTV 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2533
Location: Olympia, WA
 
Ossessionato
@turkman avatar
2009 GTV 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2533
Location: Olympia, WA
UTC quote
I need 2 take a trip......
Great read and pictures......again!!!
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
July 19, 2010 Tok to Anchorage
It was cool and overcast when I loaded up but didn't look too threatening. I got gas and some oil. I bought the wrong oil, luckily I checked before adding it to the scooter. Back in to buy another quart. So adding oil to the scooter cost $12 a quart.

From 2 in Tok you head down 1. From Tok along 1 there is a new paved sidewalk. It runs for 8 miles next to the road before crossing to what looked like an old railroad 'path' converted to a horizontal park. Great job Tok. I pulled over about 10 miles out of town and put on fleeces and my rain suit because it looked threatening ahead.

As you start out from Tok you're in the middle of a plain with far mountains in the distance.

About 15 miles out of town I saw my first moose. She was coming down a small incline at the tree line next to the road. One look at the scooter and she turned and disappeared back into the woods.

I got a lot of wind from all directions running on this long section of the plains. Left, right, front and back as well as all combinations. Finally you exit the plains to begin to winding your way through a series of small mountain passes that helps break up the wind. It was a pleasant run with minimal road damage.

At about 40 miles outside of Tok there is a lodge on the left side of the road. A sign says 'Resort Closed, no lake access...", and then something I couldn't make out. I caught a glimpse of this resort. It was so beautiful sitting back off the road with a lake in the distance. Even in the gloom of the clouds it looked like something out of a tourist guide for Alaska.

About 60 miles out the road gets bad for some time. Large sections, 300-500 feet in length, are torn up or have some patching done that makes the road worse. Again, as bad as it was it was nothing compared to the run from Haines.

From 60 miles to about 130 miles you are skirting the Wrangell/St. Elias Preserve. It was overcast and raining so I really didn't get too many 'grand' views from the pull offs. It would continue to rain off and on until I just about got into Anchorage.

I stopped in Glenallen at the Sparks General Store for gas. They have everything for sale there including complete 'old school' video game machines out on the porch.

They even do computer repairs there. I don't envy that guy.

About 40 miles past Glenallen you pass the Tazlina Glacier on your left. There are quite a few B&Bs as well as flying services to view the glacier. I got a few quick peeks but the weather continued to be overcast with low lying clouds.

Passing through 100 Mile Lake and Long Lake you're in for a treat even in bad weather. The road is in great shape and it rivals the 'Dragon'. The speed limit is fairly high, there are passing lanes and great views. This road must be awesome on a good day.

Serial Killer Alert

Do not stop at the Chickaloon General Store as I did for fuel. There is something seriously wrong there. Bad vibes all around. I mean creepy, keep the change, head out the door as fast as possible, 'oh my god bad vibes'! It reminded me of something you might see in a movie about Mississippi in the 50s.

To top it off someone has gone crazy with an inkjet printer and there are signs everywhere; No Air, No Phone, Tips Appreciated for Toilet Paper, etc. Strange, very strange. I am sure that there are bodies buried out back. I didn't hang around that long to investigate.

I kept expecting the gas to be bad. I'd pull over and who would happen to pull up? The owners of Chickaloon with the offer of a ride.

Further on is the Matanuska Glacier which runs right next to the road for easy sightseeing. It's about 30-40 miles from Palmer which is the home of the Alaska State Fair. In beauty it rivals the road into Hyder even with the bad weather. You don't need to run the Cassier for a great Alaska adventure just hook up with this road on a good day.

Through Palmer and across the Mat-Su valley. Watch out for moose as there is a high incidence of moose kills on this road. I didn't see any.

The on past Peters Creek where my folks and I used to camp out most weekends when we lived in the area, past Ft. Richardson and into Anchorage. The GPS did its job and dropped me right at the door for the Holiday Inn.

The 1200GS from Brazil that I pulled up next to at the Prince George Day's Inn was in the parking lot. I have yet to meet this guy.
Out from Tok before Wrangell-St. Elias.
Out from Tok before Wrangell-St. Elias.
Serial killer HQ, Alaska.  Chickaloon.
Serial killer HQ, Alaska. Chickaloon.
Sparks General Store.  Need your laptop looked at?  Here's the place.
Sparks General Store. Need your laptop looked at? Here's the place.
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 1 time
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
July 20, 2010 Anchorage
The scooter shop, Alaska Cycle Center, opens at 0930. At 0931, giving them a minute to open up, check voice mail, make coffee, chat about what was on TV last night, I call. No answer. Bastards!

0932 I call again. Come on that coffee won't perk if you're standing in front of the coffee pot! I get a pick up; "Parts please." Silence on the other end. I hang up.

I call back at 0933 the shop should be fully staffed by now. Parts picks up this time. The tires are there; "service please."

The service department picks up. How easy can this be? I explain that I need the new tires mounted, oil and filter change, brake pads and that front linkage inspected if it's not the tires that is causing the turning issue. Silence, then the reply: "How about a week from Thursday." My head explodes. There's brain matter all over the room. The big screen TV is knocked off the shelf. What will housekeeping think?

"A week from Thursday," I squeak like a choir boy going through puberty, "Yes sir." I get a bit testy as I know I shouldn't and explain that I rode the damn thing up here from FL and it's my only transportation. "Oh, you're only transportation?" "Yes." "Bring it right in and we will see what we can do." Nice.

I hop on the scooter with the GPS running and head straight over there. Only thing is there is no scooter shop at the address I got off the Piaggio website. I'm staring at an empty lot. My cell doesn't work.

I pull into a NAPA store around the corner. Bad move as I have to spend 20 minutes talking to the techs and customers about the scooter before someone gets around telling me how to get to the scooter shop. Off I go. I find it. Apparently they moved 3 years ago and Piaggio has still not updated the website.

The drop off is pretty easy. I speak and the guy behind the counter nods.

I take a cab back to the hotel and pretty much waste time. The phone rings about 2 1/2 hours after I get back. The scooter is ready! Amazing. Another cab ride to pick it up. Very reasonable and what speed. Great job guys. As to the steering I'm not sure if it's me or the rear tire now. It feels better on slow speed turns but it seems to want to roll off the path I've selected when making turns.

Off to Wal-Mart for a new pillow. The old one served me well but it's time for a new one. I end up having to go back and buy a second pillow as one is not going to work. I end up folding one pillow within another and taping them together. If this keeps up I might need a Lazy Boy recliner to strap to the scooter before I get back.

I also get a new cell phone as I can't get the Canadian one I bought to work to put more minutes on it. Those damn Canadian telecommunication companies! $29 gets me a Trac phone and 300 minutes. All very reasonable and I can make calls now should I run across any more erroneous information on the web.

I had a late lunch at the Moose's Tooth Pub and Pizzeria. It's rated #1 on TripAdvisor which has always come through for me. Not this time. So-so, and I got a quite the upset stomach afterwards (details and pictures later). The featured dessert was Carrot Cake which I love but this tasted like it came frozen from Publix or Carr's.

There's a sale on beer at a store down from the hotel so I spend some time shopping there before heading back to the hotel.
Anchorage.  Another overcast and dreary day.
Anchorage. Another overcast and dreary day.
Good bye old friend we've had many miles together.
Good bye old friend we've had many miles together.
Rated #1 on Tripadvisor.com but I was not that impressed.
Rated #1 on Tripadvisor.com but I was not that impressed.
We will meet again and it won't be pretty.
We will meet again and it won't be pretty.
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 1 time
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
July 21, 2010 Seward Alaska
I made a run down to Seward to check out the fishing. Seward is about 120 miles south of Anchorage.

For most of the trip you're in the Chugach National Forest. You're driving along the Turnagain Arm of the Cook Inlet down the Kenai Peninsula. Yeah, it's that Cook; James Cook.

The tide was out on the way down. Apparently the tides here are bore tides. Which is a huge wave or series of waves that advance down the Turnagain Arm in a wall of water up to 10-feet high. This tide is second only to the bore tide of the Bay of Fundy. I've also read that you can surf the tide as well. I saw no surfers this day.

Right outside of Anchorage you pass Potter Marsh which has a long boardwalk for viewing. Both times I passed people were out on it bird watching.

For about 50 miles you are riding right alongside the inlet. The Alaska Railroad has a line that runs next to the road as well sometimes between you and the inlet.

As I was heading south an Alaska Railroad train passed heading north. Pretty cool.

There are many turn offs for birders, sheepers and whalers as all can sometimes be seen in this road. I, as usual, saw nothing. You can also use this to get out of the way of speeding trucks which I saw many.

You pass Girdwood the home of seven permanent glaciers. It is also the location of Alyeska Resort at Mt. Alyeska.

At the tip of the inlet you then begin to go through a series of small mountain passes. The mountains for a time are fairly close in to the road. It was overcast for pretty much all of the ride down but still beautiful.

Seward is a small fishing village that has a small window of time in the summer to make money for the rest of the year. There were campers parked everywhere. And with those campers came thousands of tourists walking around eating ice cream. But even with the crowds I could still find parking down by the docks.

There was a cruise shipped docked on the far side of the docks. I rode over to take a look at it. Riding over there I saw a lot of passengers walking towards the docks where the charter boats were docked.

There are plenty of local fast food joints. Most of them feature salmon and or halibut on their menu.

I talked with someone who lives there and he recommended the Crab Shack. It's down and across from the Van Gilder hotel. The place has zero personality, I mean zero, but the halibut was excellent. Worth a try.

There were no charters available anywhere for the next several days. I even looked into hotels but they were all booked up. It's the high season in Seward.

The return was pretty easy without any difficulty. Traffic was light the entire time.

I stopped at Exit Glacier for a quick peek and Portage Glacier. I'd been to Portage Glacier in February and what I thought was the glacier was snow not ice - glacier. The glacier has receded a lot exposing a lot of rock and gravel. I just missed being able to get into the visitor center that they have there as it closed at 1800.

Hey the sun stays up until 0330 do you think some government employees could flex some hours for tourists?

Although I didn't intend to drive that much today I ended up with over 250 miles on the odometer.

When I got back I looked up Hooter's on the GPS and decided to go there for dinner and pick up a few shirts. Gone, closed. There is no longer a Hooters in Alaska. Let me repeat that: There is no longer a Hooters in Alaska. I cried all the way back to the hotel.
The road to Seward runs through the Chugach State Park and National Forest.
The road to Seward runs through the Chugach State Park and National Forest.
The weather was bad so there was limited opportunities for pictures.  However, the run down from Anchorage is quite beautiful.
The weather was bad so there was limited opportunities for pictures. However, the run down from Anchorage is quite beautiful.
Seward.
Seward.
They have a very active fishing fleet and dock area.  If your into boats and fishing this is well worth the drive.  Be aware though that the cruise lines stop here so you need to make reservations very early.  There are limited facilites in the area.
They have a very active fishing fleet and dock area. If your into boats and fishing this is well worth the drive. Be aware though that the cruise lines stop here so you need to make reservations very early. There are limited facilites in the area.
Seward.
Seward.
Seward.
Seward.
Marine Center - Seward.
Marine Center - Seward.
Seward.
Seward.
Portage Glacier.  I was really surprised to see how far it has receded.
Portage Glacier. I was really surprised to see how far it has receded.
Visitor Center - Portage Glacier.
Visitor Center - Portage Glacier.
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 2 times
@noth avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Burgman 650 (May, 2012) MP3 500 (11/2009 - 5.2012)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1385
Location: Massachusetts- Boston South Shore
 
Molto Verboso
@noth avatar
Burgman 650 (May, 2012) MP3 500 (11/2009 - 5.2012)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1385
Location: Massachusetts- Boston South Shore
UTC quote
Great pics !! I am shocked at the number of recreational boats in the Seward Harbor.. I picture the Alaska Coast as mostly home to commercial fishing.. and recently cruise ships which of course.. have nice warm cabins to protect tourists from the occasional August snow squall.. but not recreational boat ownership.. The number of sail boat masts in your photo was a real surprise as all of these boats are pretty much privately owned by individuals that have to justify the expense with the use.. and that must be hard in Alaska !
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
noth wrote:
Great pics !! I am shocked at the number of recreational boats in the Seward Harbor.. I picture the Alaska Coast as mostly home to commercial fishing.. and recently cruise ships which of course.. have nice warm cabins to protect tourists from the occasional August snow squall.. but not recreational boat ownership.. The number of sail boat masts in your photo was a real surprise as all of these boats are pretty much privately owned by individuals that have to justify the expense with the use.. and that must be hard in Alaska !
I think Seward is the closet marina/port that has facilities you can dock sport boats at. Anchorage is a big commercial port and the inlet gets those huge tides.

But your right it looks like a marina in Miami.

I met a guy on the road returning to Fairbanks. He bought a sailboat in Washington State and was returning to Fairbanks with it. They live on a large lake.

A sailboat in Fairbanks?

That's almost as crazy as riding a scooter to the Arctic Circle!
@bubbajon avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
RIP: MP3 500 - Brutto Moto
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5288
Location: Austin, TX
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@bubbajon avatar
RIP: MP3 500 - Brutto Moto
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5288
Location: Austin, TX
UTC quote
Chiaroscuro wrote:
That's almost as crazy as riding a scooter to the Arctic Circle!
Throw in the fact the looney rider is from Florida and you're there.
@quasi-moto avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
SawStop
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5391
Location: Puyallup, WA
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@quasi-moto avatar
SawStop
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5391
Location: Puyallup, WA
UTC quote
noth wrote:
Great pics !! I am shocked at the number of recreational boats in the Seward Harbor.. I picture the Alaska Coast as mostly home to commercial fishing.. and recently cruise ships which of course.. have nice warm cabins to protect tourists from the occasional August snow squall.. but not recreational boat ownership.. The number of sail boat masts in your photo was a real surprise as all of these boats are pretty much privately owned by individuals that have to justify the expense with the use.. and that must be hard in Alaska !
I wonder how many of those boats will still be there in September. This is getting close to the end of prime visiting season in Alaska, and there are thousands of pleasure boats like that up and down British Columbia, I wonder how many are traveling on their summer vacation?

I was in Alaska last summer, and we were in Denali during the last week of August. The lodge in Denali had three more weeks of operation, and they closed the lodge for the winter...in the second or third week of September!
@fuzzy avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
. . 2008 Blue MP3 400. . di Peluria Orso .... 1993 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 ....... 2013 Honda NC700XD; 2017 Versys X300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6252
Location: South Cumberland Plateau in Tennessee
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@fuzzy avatar
. . 2008 Blue MP3 400. . di Peluria Orso .... 1993 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 ....... 2013 Honda NC700XD; 2017 Versys X300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6252
Location: South Cumberland Plateau in Tennessee
UTC quote
Len Smith wrote:
noth wrote:
Great pics !! I am shocked at the number of recreational boats in the Seward Harbor.. I picture the Alaska Coast as mostly home to commercial fishing.. and recently cruise ships which of course.. have nice warm cabins to protect tourists from the occasional August snow squall.. but not recreational boat ownership.. The number of sail boat masts in your photo was a real surprise as all of these boats are pretty much privately owned by individuals that have to justify the expense with the use.. and that must be hard in Alaska !
I wonder how many of those boats will still be there in September. This is getting close to the end of prime visiting season in Alaska, and there are thousands of pleasure boats like that up and down British Columbia, I wonder how many are traveling on their summer vacation?

I was in Alaska last summer, and we were in Denali during the last week of August. The lodge in Denali had three more weeks of operation, and they closed the lodge for the winter...in the second or third week of September!
A friend related a story to me about going to Alaska one summer. He said it was on a Tuesday that year.
@veeteck avatar
UTC

Member
Piaggio X8 400
Joined: UTC
Posts: 15
Location: Warsaw, Poland
 
Member
@veeteck avatar
Piaggio X8 400
Joined: UTC
Posts: 15
Location: Warsaw, Poland
UTC quote
Hello,

Chiaroscuro - great story! Will you cover the return trip to Florida? Are you going back?
@heavy avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
Joined: UTC
Posts: 68
Location: Asia
 
Enthusiast
@heavy avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 68
Location: Asia
UTC quote
fantastic! inspiring!

i can only wish to have half the adventure you had.

i envy you.
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
July 22, 2010 Anchorage
An off day and I went to see a chiropractor. I called around and finally found one that can get me in at 1300.

I've been having this right upper back pain for weeks now. Sometimes when I'm riding I can't look to the left at traffic because of the pain. At the same time it is almost impossible to look down. Yet when I'm not riding I rarely have any pain. It feels like a pinched nerve.

The chiropractor seems to think it's a muscle issue rather than a pinched nerve. They did electrical muscle stimulation, heat and finally an adjustment. I'll know tomorrow as I'm leaving for Fairbanks if it has helped. I'm going to try and get back to see him on the return leg.

I wanted to go fishing in Seward but there are no rooms available and the only charters that are available are in the middle of the week. I also want to do a flight-seeing trip up to Denali but the weather is so bad I don't want to waste my money. Although I'm sure a 'foul weather' trip would still be cool.

I now realize I need a new back tire. I could kick myself for not ordering one when I paid extra to get the front tires shipped 'expedited freight'. After getting the fronts put on I've spent a considerable amount of time staring at that rear one and I finally came to the conclusion that I need to get it replaced. It's 2500 miles to Seattle and that doesn't include any riding in Alaska and I just don't think it will last that long.

I called back to Alaska Cycle Center and ordered it. I couldn't get in for service to have it changed until the 3rd so I'm having it shipped 'regular freight'. However I will probably have to sit around and wait for it. I'm already tired of Alaska. Maybe it's the weather.

I wandered around downtown dodging the homeless and drunks that populate street corners. Visited a couple of fur stores and innumerable t-shirts shops that line 4th and 5th Avenue. Yawn.

I stopped at REI and spent $200+ to get a duffle bag dry bag. I'm tired of having to dump everything out of the backpack dry bag to find anything. So this is bag number 3 for this trip.

Hopefully this new bag will make it easier to travel. I also got some waterproof gloves good to 0 degrees, a jaunty scarf as the neck gaiter I have is driving me nuts; off with the helmet to put it on, off with the helmet to take it off.

The weather in Anchorage is lousy. Low clouds intermittent rain, a little sun then more low clouds and intermittent rain. I thought this only happened in Seattle.
The old 4th Avenue Theater.  Hopefully they find a use for it.
The old 4th Avenue Theater. Hopefully they find a use for it.
Ahh, the Club Paris.  Like most 'big' cities Anchorage has a few quirky bars.
Ahh, the Club Paris. Like most 'big' cities Anchorage has a few quirky bars.
No tourist information here.  Just some cranky old ladies chain smoking by the entrance.
No tourist information here. Just some cranky old ladies chain smoking by the entrance.
This is NOT the tackiest thing you'll see in downtown Anchorage.
This is NOT the tackiest thing you'll see in downtown Anchorage.
REI.  It doesn't get better or more expensive than this.  If they had rooms and a bar I'd move in.
REI. It doesn't get better or more expensive than this. If they had rooms and a bar I'd move in.
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 1 time
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
old as dirt wrote:
congrats on making the circle. what is your total mileage to this point? The pics are great and the story lines are perfect.
I know I wrote it down but can't find it. I figure, looking back at service records and maps, that it was around 7400 miles into the trip.

This is based on the mileage recorded in Seattle and retracing my route from Seattle to Eagle Plains and then the 'circle'.
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 1 time
@old_as_dirt avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 GTS
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22692
Location: Harriman, Tennessee, Tn
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@old_as_dirt avatar
2007 GTS
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22692
Location: Harriman, Tennessee, Tn
UTC quote
Chiaroscuro wrote:
old as dirt wrote:
congrats on making the circle. what is your total mileage to this point? The pics are great and the story lines are perfect.
I know I wrote it down but can'r find it. I figure, looking back at service records and maps, that it was around 7400 miles into the trip.

This is based on the mileage recorded in Seattle and retracing my route from Seattle to Eagle Plains and then the 'circle'.
how amny miles were on the scoot when you left your house in Florida and what is the mileage now.
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
July 23, 2010 Anchorage to Fairbanks
Blue skies in Anchorage. What a pleasant surprise. I did a quick run through the downtown area to try and get some video. I'm sure on reviewing it, it will probably suck with the camera I have. I need to throw in the towel and get a 'real' video camera.

Neil Johnston of OneWheelDrive.net on YouTube has a video about his trip up the Dempster. It's titled Telegraph Creek. It is well worth the watch. I wanted to go up to Telegraph Creek because of this video but I had neither the time and I was worried about my tires.

In it he talks about places you will return to time and time again, a place that resonates in your soul. For him it's Telegraph Creek.

For me it seems like Alaska, Big Lake in particular, is my Telegraph Creek. Big Lake, north of Anchorage, is neither the most beautiful nor vibrant place that I've come across. Yet, it still toys with me from time to time. I was working in Cuba a few years ago and I made a trip from there to visit Big Lake. In February no less!

This trip, I had hoped, was about getting out seeing the country, meeting new people, traveling along roads I had only dreamed about. Yet, in the back of my mind I knew that if I came to Anchorage I'd make a stop in Big Lake.

Why this place resonates in my soul but I have yet to figure out. I've driven the roads many times, pulled into familiar places and would reminisce about living here many years ago. But why?

So on to Big Lake and Fairbanks. I stopped at the Arctic Valley ski resort outside Ft. Richardson. Somewhere I have some old slides of me trying to ski. While the locations of the lifts have changed it's still as I remember it.

Heading north out of Anchorage you're on 1 and then you pick up 3 near Palmer which will eventually get you all the way to Fairbanks. Along the way you pass through Wasilla a city that quite frankly looks like crap. Wasilla, and perhaps all of Alaska, have no building codes. So you can have a trailer, log cabin and million dollar home all on the same street.

About 10 miles past Wasilla you make the left towards Big Lake. Much has changed since I lived there. There is now a small shopping center, a few free standing stores, gas stations, restaurants and even a school. When I lived there we were bused to Wasilla for school in a seemingly interminable ride.

Yet to me it's still Big Lake of yesterday; riding on the lake in a boat in the summer or a snow machine in the winter. A few places I remember well have closed, obviously changed hands or have been transformed into something that I hardly recognize but it's still has a pull on me. I try not to waste time but there are so many memories that I need to replay.

I have a few places like this in Clearwater, Florida. I keep coming back to. I'm not sure what I'm looking at or for; answers, directions or dreaming about what might have been.

On to Fairbanks.

Up 3 through the Denali National Park and Denali Park and Wilderness. Home to Mount McKinley (Denali), the park comprises over 6 million plus acres. It's huge. It's still not the largest park in Alaska.

It rained and was windy on most of the trip north. Along the way I came across the 'Igloo'. At one time it was going to be hostel/hotel but according to online posts the owner couldn't get the structure completed satisfactorily for local officials. Maybe there are some building codes in Alaska.

It and the adjoining gas station are closed. And from the looks of it have been closed for some time. The door to the igloo has been kicked in and the interior is rotting from water damage. While I was parked in the lot just about every car headed north stopped for a picture!

On through the Denali Village which is a short strip of fast food restaurants, motels/hotels/resorts/t-shirt shops/flight seeing/rafting companies. This short strip is a microcosm of what Alaska is about in the summer. Get as much money from the tourists as possible in as quick amount of time as possible because no one is going to be here during the winter.

Even though this is the 'freeway' to Fairbanks gas stations are few and far between. There were many sections where it would be 15 to 20 minutes until I passed a vehicle.

Fairbanks comes up on you fairly quickly. You're in the middle of nowhere making a descent from some low hills it's then you begin to see a few mailboxes and named streets. Up until now there was nothing but forests and a few scattered gas stations. Even at the few scenic stops outside Fairbanks you would never know you were close to the second largest city in Alaska.

Right outside the city I passed a huge lot with about 500 or more cars in it. I couldn't figure out what it was I thought it might be a rodeo. It turns out it was an Everclear concert at a small club. Everclear! Alaska?

I'm staying at the Best Western Chena River Lodge. I met a few bikers in the parking lot as I was unloading everything. No one had or was planning on going up the Dalton. Guys don't believe everything Jess James says; get a backbone or a scooter.

359 miles
Arctic Valley outside Ft. Richardson.
Arctic Valley outside Ft. Richardson.
Arctic Valley.
Arctic Valley.
Home sweet home on Big Lake.  It's burnt down and been rebuilt several times.  I think it's a condo now.
Home sweet home on Big Lake. It's burnt down and been rebuilt several times. I think it's a condo now.
The old bus stop; Big Lake Lodge.  We used to shoot pool here waiting for the school bus.
The old bus stop; Big Lake Lodge. We used to shoot pool here waiting for the school bus.
One of the few gas stations on the way to Fairbanks.
One of the few gas stations on the way to Fairbanks.
The 'Igloo'.
The 'Igloo'.
Map.
Map.
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 1 time
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
Next: The Dalton ain't...
...the Dempster.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
The Dalton Highway
The Dalton Highway; it and the Dempster are legendary in motorcycling lore so I'm not going to do any legend bashing and just pretend I'm frightened.

Rain and more rain. Not drizzly, spitting raining but a full on rain as I went out to load up. Hmm, rain equals mud and my tires are not mudders by any stretch of the imagination.

What should I do? I should ride.

As I was loading up under the canopy I talked with a Canadian that was riding a BMW F800GS which in my opinion one of the better adventure bikes produced. Was he headed to the Dalton? No. Where was he headed to? Eastern Canada and home. You ride all this way and turn around? Apparently, as I watched him climb into his heated pants, jacket and gloves and ride off for home. Maybe I should go back to bed? What time do liquor stores open here?

The Dalton, also known as The Haul Road, starts 84 miles north of Fairbanks. The Arctic Circle is located at about mile 115 on the road.

So you have more than an hour of riding just to get to the Dalton. The last 30 miles or so are terrible. You have ruts that run parallel to your line of travel and if you enter one at speed you're in for a shock at the other end as they end abruptly. I almost dropped into one on a high speed turn and if I had I know that I would have been thrown off. It was brutal.

At times my speed dropped to less than 30 mph. While the rain had let up about an hour out of town the roads were still wet adding to the safety issue. And of course there are all those 'steel cowboys'' ripping up the road. That cargo is so vital that they feel the need to drive 20 - 30 mph faster than the speed limit. I almost met one head on in a turn as he was trying to pass, in a blind turn; I was literally a split second away from bailing out into the ditch/pond/tundra as I squeaked by him.

Where's law enforcement? Alaska spend some of that money you make off the oil revenues and hire some more troopers.

I stopped for gas at Fox. I was thinking that this was the last gas station before the Dalton. But I was wrong about 10 miles further on is Hilltop and this is the last place to fill up before entering the Dalton. Sometimes 10 miles can make a big difference.

At Fox, still confused, I saw signs for 'Arctic'. Hmm, 'Arctic' as in Arctic Circle? So I followed this 'arctic' road for a bit. Even though my GPS was complaining that this was the wrong way. I finally stopped and zoomed out to get a different perspective of the entire area on the GPS and then I could see I was headed in the wrong direction. So Arctic is NOT short for Arctic Circle in Alaska.

Finally I arrived at the entrance to the Dalton and the often photographed Dalton sign tagged with stickers from all over the world. After a few obligatory pics I was off. I had no stickers to contribute.

The rain had stopped and the surface of the road was damp but not too muddy. Within the first mile a 1200GS passed me heading south covered in mud. He was a little rude as he didn't return a wave when I gave him a little toot from the horn. BMW adventure bike bastards!

The first few miles are really rough. Lots of small pot holes with a washboard surface that makes traveling difficult. I was drifting all over the road. That new pillow wasn't doing its job as my ass was sore within about 10 miles.

According to my research most of the area that I would be riding in was hit with forest fires in 2004 and 2005 that drove most of the wildlife away. With the exception of a black bear right before the Arctic Circle sign I would not see anything other than crows and a few elusive tourists with dazed looks in their eyes.

Charred trees were abundant in many areas. My experience from other areas that I've seen that have had forest fires is that it will be many years before it returns to whatever normal is. Perhaps a 100 years or more.

I was passed by a few large trucks and some service vehicles but with the road being damp there wasn't much dust to contend with. There was the occasional 'large, wide load' that you need to pull over for.

Early on I passed a small Holland Cruise Line bus, about a 20 seater, and for the next 45 minutes we played tag. I passed them and then I stopped to take a picture, they passed me and then I stopped again, they passed... Damn cruise lines!

There are quite a few tight turns and extreme changes in road elevation as the road early on does not try and follow the path of least resistance. The road climbs hills and then drops straight back down. None of this following the creek bed.

Within a few miles you see the pipeline. Early on it's a bit of a ways from the road but shortly it comes closer to the road or the road comes closer to it or they split the difference.

The first time I saw a path down to the pipeline I stopped and walked down to it. It was quite a hike but it's the 'pipeline' after all. I took a few pics and when I turned around I was staring at a handmade sign that said: Trapline, traps in trails, with a phone number for J. George. For a split second I felt like someone who had walked out into a mine field by mistake.

After climbing out from the pipeline and back on the road about a mile further on was a viewing area where the pipeline is right next to the road. In fact there was another tour bus there with people taking photos. No worries about trap lines for these people.

There are quite a few people out on the road. I passed road crews, people doing surveys on the tundra, multiple Alaska Pipeline trucks parked beside the road as well as the traffic passing me coming and going. If you broke down or had an accident I don't think it would be long until you had help here.

At mile 56 you cross over the Yukon River by bridge. The pipeline runs next to the bridge. The surface of the bridge is made of wood and is about 220 feet long with a 6 degree pitch down to the Yukon River Camp.

I pulled in here looking for fuel. In the back of my mind I thought fuel was available but didn't see any pumps. So I pulled out to leave but at the last minute decided to go back and check. I had enough fuel for Coldfoot but I really didn't want to go to Coldfoot for fuel, just to the Circle.

I went into the restaurant and as I entered there was a sign explaining where the fuel was. So they do have fuel. I fueled up and continued on.

There is also a small hotel and repair shop here as well. From all the boat trailers it appears to be a popular point for putting your boat into the Yukon River.

5 miles north of the Yukon River is the Hotspot Cafe. I did not stop on the way out but I thought I would see what it was like on the return run. The views get longer and longer as there is less and less vegetation and trees to block the view the further north you ride.

Surprisingly there are several locations that the road is paved. Why pave it from the middle out is beyond me. On one, several miles in length, I was able to get up to 75 mph.

You can quickly forget just where you are. I would not recommend travelling at too high a speed on these paved sections as there are spots that have been poorly repaired or not repaired at all and at high speeds you come up on them pretty quickly. However, the paved sections as a whole are much better that the Haines Junction section or even the run in from Fairbanks to the Dalton.

One of the major stops is Finger Mountain; which is a cropping of rocks that looks like finger pointing in the direction towards Fairbanks. It affords some pretty great views. There are restrooms and a number of informational displays here so it is well worth the stop.

Right before the Arctic Circle I ran across a black bear out on the road. One of the few black bears I've seen in Alaska. I had the video camera running so I thought finally the 'money shot'. Wrong. When I got back to review it the file was corrupt. The bear stayed on the road for some time. Black I mean so black he didn't seem to reflect light.

A few miles on and I'm at the sign.

When I got there, there was a line of people waiting to get their photos taken. There was even someone in a bathing suit waiting for their opportunity at a photo.

For the first time I really got hit by mosquitoes. After chatting with a few people and getting my photo taken it was time to turn around.

I would have liked to gone on to Prudhoe but I have no regrets about turning around. That's for another day, or year, or life.

I did stop at the Hotspot Cafe that I saw on the way out. Excellent burgers. A little over the top on the 'man-hating' stickers - you have to be there to understand it but great burgers and very reasonably priced.

Back to the Yukon camp for gas. When I pulled in I met a women there who literally ran across the parking lot, which in its self is no mean feat as it's huge, to meet me. She said she saw me pull in earlier and couldn't get over in time to see the scooter. Really sweet. She was carrying a marmot purse. Think a full sized marmot, trapped, gutted and folded over with a leather strap. That's the purse. She wore it well. She was so cute I wish I got a photo.

The road back was, well it was the same road I travelled out. No real changes. I did get in a spot where I had some trucks were passing inbound and I had a truck behind me waiting for a chance to pass. The road had dried so it got pretty dusty for a few minutes, a white out for about 30 seconds, but not too bad. However, I can now see, no pun intended, if there was a lot of dust and someone was passing there is the potential for an accident.

It's a long way back. Probably the worse section back for me was the paved section from the Dalton to the hotel. Parts of it are terrible and its 80 miles back. That's 160+ miles that you have to consider in planning to go up the Dalton.

And then I pulled into the hotel parking lot. Done.

I've posted this before:

Step out of the box; take a deep breath, walk outside, throw a leg over the seat (or slide in like a 10 year old girl), get off, go back in and grab the keys you forgot and go.

It's doable.

Its 20% physical, 80% mental, but most things are.

I did it with zero experience, zero. The furthest I went before I left was a few miles from where I was staying because they had beer in case lots on sale. And I love a sale.

Was it blind luck? I'd like to think not. I just did it. I didn't know I was supposed to fail, I didn't know I wasn't supposed to ride up the Dalton.

Naive, sure, but not frozen with fear.

Drop me a message and some pics when you arrive.


Between the two the Dempster is the better road with far more spectacular views. I wouldn't even recommend making the run to Fairbanks for the Dalton. Go to Dawson City instead and do the Dempster.

However, I have only done both to the Arctic Circle so I can't comment on what lays beyond each roads 'sign'.
It's quite a ride just to this sign.
It's quite a ride just to this sign.
Muddy but not too bad.
Muddy but not too bad.
Pipeline.
Pipeline.
The paved sections can change very quickly, be careful.
The paved sections can change very quickly, be careful.
View from Finger Mountain.  The 'finger' is not in this shot.
View from Finger Mountain. The 'finger' is not in this shot.
If you see this sign, pull over and start crying.
If you see this sign, pull over and start crying.
Yukon River bridge.
Yukon River bridge.
Fuel, Yukon River Camp.
Fuel, Yukon River Camp.
The Arctic Circle in Alaska.
The Arctic Circle in Alaska.
Let my 15 minutes begin!
Let my 15 minutes begin!
Hotspot Cafe.  Great burgers.
Hotspot Cafe. Great burgers.
You are passed by large wide loads at times.
You are passed by large wide loads at times.
You are passed by large wide loads at times.
You are passed by large wide loads at times.
Pusher vehicle to get the large load over the hills.
Pusher vehicle to get the large load over the hills.
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 1 time
@g03 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
MP3 500 08
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1560
Location: Toms River area, New Jersey
 
Molto Verboso
@g03 avatar
MP3 500 08
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1560
Location: Toms River area, New Jersey
UTC quote
14 minutes left !!! Thanks again for all the reporting, and pictures.
@stickyfrog avatar
UTC

Moderatus Rana
MP3 250 and 2 MP3 500s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22659
Location: Nashville, Indiana
 
Moderatus Rana
@stickyfrog avatar
MP3 250 and 2 MP3 500s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22659
Location: Nashville, Indiana
UTC quote
Just got caught up on your trip. No words to describe how much I would like to be doing what you are doing. Your descriptions and pics around anchorage made me nostalgic. (I spent two years at Elmendorf AFB). I never made it north of Fairbanks so your ride up the Dalton was interesting. In fact, I recognized the yukon bridge from the Ice Road Truckers series on History Channel. Safe travels.
UTC

Member
Joined: UTC
Posts: 23
 
Member
Joined: UTC
Posts: 23
UTC quote
It's been some time since you updated your story!!!! Did the MP3 die or you or what? Or did winter set in and you couldn't get out. Looking forward to the update!!!!
@sh1bby69 avatar
UTC

Hooked
MP3 500
Joined: UTC
Posts: 288
Location: SoCal Orange County
 
Hooked
@sh1bby69 avatar
MP3 500
Joined: UTC
Posts: 288
Location: SoCal Orange County
UTC quote
wow very amazing!! I just love looking at the photos! Makes me want to take a ride with my gf for a weekend.
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
July 25 - August 01, 2010
July 25, 2010

Off day in Fairbanks. It takes literally 15 minutes to tour the downtown area. Anchorage feels like Paris in comparison.

I finally went and bought The MilePost which is THE travel guide for Alaska and Northwest Canada. There's almost too much information here. The detail is so minute at times it's painful. In other words, indispensible, and very heavy to carry. You'd think with all the ads it would be free. It feels like the September 2007 issue of Vogue.

July 26, 2010

I decided to start back to Anchorage. I want to stop in the Denali area and see if I can get on a tour of some sort into the park.

The weather was great as I left, blue skies and temps in the 70s. I made a quick stop at the University of Alaska, Fairbanks for some souvenir shirts and then I was off. Great campus, I wish I was back in college.

The rain arrived; rain and more rain. Is this Seattle? I thought it would never end.

The roads haven't changed much since I rode up about 4 days ago. There were a few construction stops that weren't there when I came up.

As I passed the 'Igloo' it looked like that part of the gas station had been removed. The rain was pouring hard so I didn't stop to explore.

I drove through the Denali Village looking for a motel/hotel. I ended up at the Denali RV Park 6 miles north of the 'village' for two nights. $69 and I had my own bathroom which is not too bad in Alaska. The $69, as everyone has a bathroom in Alaska.

July 27, 2010

It was cold last night. The room has a portable heater that did not work. I ran into some Eastern European (Russian?) guys cleaning the rooms in the morning and got a new 'heater' from them. Hopefully tonight it will be a bit warmer or the heater works.

It is no surprise that there is a lot to do at Denali. It is one of the largest parks in the National Park System and that mountain pulls in people from all over the world. Lots of traffic out on the roads.

I wanted to do a flight seeing trip but the weather was bad with intermittent rain and lots of low clouds. I didn't want to risk wasting my money on a flight to look at some clouds up close.

I ended up at the park visitor's center. They have shuttles and trips to the interior of the park. You can only drive for about 12 miles into the park with your vehicle before you have to turn around so the only way to get deep into the park is on one of these buses or walking.

It's a bit confusing standing there looking at the signs for the buses; they have a shuttle for $34 that takes you 80 miles into the park and a tour that takes you 80 miles in the park for $166. And there are variations of distances and services. There are also interpretive tours as well. It's not spelled out all that clear on the sign at the park as to what the differences are.

The shuttle is just that; the driver takes you to a spot and drops you off. You can hop back on any of the busses to get back. The driver is not looking for wildlife but will stop if anyone sees something. The tour has the driver actively looking for wildlife and will explain about the history and the area you are driving in. You stay on that bus for the entire trip, excluding bathroom breaks and rest stops. A lunch box is included. The interpretive tours has a second park personnel on the bus who goes into the details about history, wildlife, geology, etc.

I chose a tour that goes about 50 miles in the park. One of the reasons I chose this was it was the only one available. Most were sold out for days in advance. The pickup time was 1500 and we would not get back until about 2330. A long day.

If I had to do it again I would have chosen the shuttle. You see just as much wildlife and if you've done the least bit of research on Denali you'll know what you're looking at. And you can spend as much or as little time as you want in the park. If you tired and want to call it a day you can hop off an inbound shuttle and get on an outbound at anytime, assuming there are seats. During the trip I was on we also saw several people walking along the road so that is another option; ride the shuttle for awhile and then get off and hike the area.

For the most part the shuttles/tours use the local hotels/resorts for pickup sites. I got on at the first pickup site with about 5 other people. I was lucky as the next stop completely filled the entire bus. Of course as a single everyone wants you to shuffle and move about to accommodate the pairs. Not on this day. I as was firmly ensconced in my window seat and no one was moving me. Sorry but I went through a tremendous amount to get here and no tourist from a cruise ship that is flying home in 2 days was going to move me.

The bus that I took can best be described as an upgraded school bus with semi-bucket seats. Every couple of rows has a small video screen that dropped down. The driver videotapes any of the animals we saw and you could watch on the screen because quite frequently the animals were so far away it was almost impossible to make them out. There is a box lunch on every seat when you board.

Most, if not all, the other 'tourers' were from the cruise lines and had been bussed or rode the train from Anchorage.

The road back into the park is a small two lane gravel road. At times the bus had to really hug the mountain side as the road is so narrow. Looking out the window you couldn't see the road only the sheer drop off we were so close to the edge. Pretty exhilarating.

We saw the 'Big 5' in wildlife on the tour; Reindeer, Grizzlies, Wolves, Sheep and Moose as well as assorted rabbits, caribou and the occasional hiker. The views were amazing even with the bad weather. At the turnaround point on our trip normally you would be able to see Mt. McKinley. However, it was shrouded in clouds and we didn't even get a glimpse of it.

The trip was exhausting. It went on from 1500 to 2300. I can't imagine going another 30 miles or so back into the park on one of these in one day. Perhaps on a shuttle that doesn't make too many stops. Even so Denali Park and Preserve is huge. You could easily spend all summer there hiking and not even see 1% of it.

There is a professionally produced DVD about the park available in the gift shop at the park headquarters which you can purchase. Another option is that the video shot by the driver is added to the professional footage on this DVD and you can purchase a record of your trip as well as the professional footage all on one DVD. The driver also has coupons for $5 off the purchase. Pretty slick deal. There was no pressure whatsoever to buy the DVDs.

July 28, 2010

It rained pretty much all day on the ride to Anchorage. Traffic was light and the winds were fairly calm.

As I was leaving Denali a 5 person bike, YES, A 5 PERSON BIKE pulled in. Earlier in the trip northbound I had seen what I thought was a 4 person bike on the road headed north. But now as they pulled past me it was a Mom and Dad (assuming), and three kids on one bike pulling a small trailer. I was floored; I should have turned around and took a picture.

At one of the construction stops I looked at the rear tire and I could see cords sticking through. And I still had 90 + miles to go on it! If it goes flat I don't think any amount of plugging will get this tire fixed.

As much as I would have liked to do some exploring at Hatcher Pass and the Big Lake area I kept on travelling as I knew I was on thin ice with this rear tire.

I'm staying at the Days Inn which is right down from the downtown section of Anchorage. I can walk to dinner and stores. I still have a few days until I can get the tire replaced, bad timing on my part. I'm going to try and not ride the scooter until it's time to take it in for the new tire.

235 miles

July 29, 2010

Not much to do as it is overcast and I've seen just about every t-shirt shop in the downtown area.  
July 30, 2010

There is an air show scheduled this weekend at Elmendorf Airbase which is just off the downtown area. All day long there have been flybys of jets as they are practicing for the show. Ok, it looked pretty cool the first 9 times you flew by at 200 feet faster than the speed of sound but if you haven't got it down by now maybe you better find another MOS in the military.

The weather still sucks with intermittent rain. 

July 31, 2010

As I'd seen the downtown area about 10 times I went to the weekend flea market instead. There were quite a few tents set up and a large crowd there. I had an awesome Salmon Quesadilla for breakfast. I was tempted to get two.

More TV, more downloading.

August 01, 2010

The weather still sucks.

I walked back to the weekend market for some more Salmon Quesadillas as a late breakfast. Toured a few gift shops again and then pretty much chilled in my room. Got some fuel and topped off the oil. Why can't I fall asleep and wake on the 3rd?
The morning after.
The morning after.
This is about as exciting as it gets in downtown Fairbanks.
This is about as exciting as it gets in downtown Fairbanks.
Downtown Fairbanks.
Downtown Fairbanks.
Alaskan Gold!  Tourists at Denali rail station.
Alaskan Gold! Tourists at Denali rail station.
Denali visitors center.
Denali visitors center.
Grizzly bears - Denali tour.
Grizzly bears - Denali tour.
Tourists = portable toilets, lots of them.
Tourists = portable toilets, lots of them.
Stare at this long enough and you will see a reindeer.
Stare at this long enough and you will see a reindeer.
Denali.
Denali.
If your too lazy to get off the bus just take a picture of the monitor.
If your too lazy to get off the bus just take a picture of the monitor.
Denali.
Denali.
Denali.
Denali.
Denali.
Denali.
Somewhere out there is the mountain that brought us all here.
Somewhere out there is the mountain that brought us all here.
Someone paid me to do this.
Someone paid me to do this.
No, seriously I made $20.
No, seriously I made $20.
This is what $69 gets you at Denali.
This is what $69 gets you at Denali.
This is what $69 gets you at Denali.  No complaints.
This is what $69 gets you at Denali. No complaints.
Denali.
Denali.
One of the inumerable construction stops.
One of the inumerable construction stops.
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 2 times
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
July 25 - August 01, 2010
July 25 - August 01, 2010 pictures.
90 miles to go on this.
90 miles to go on this.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
This is about as good as it gets for street theatre in Anchorage.
This is about as good as it gets for street theatre in Anchorage.
Anchorage weekend market.
Anchorage weekend market.
Downtown Post Office.
Downtown Post Office.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
Downtown Anchorage.
This is weekend foot traffic - downtown Anchorage.
This is weekend foot traffic - downtown Anchorage.
@stickyfrog avatar
UTC

Moderatus Rana
MP3 250 and 2 MP3 500s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22659
Location: Nashville, Indiana
 
Moderatus Rana
@stickyfrog avatar
MP3 250 and 2 MP3 500s
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22659
Location: Nashville, Indiana
UTC quote
Glad to see you are still with us. Thought the grizzlies or an errant moose got ya. Great pics and narrative as usual. Hope you are home by now.
@tn_sooner avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2012 BV 350, 2013 BMW C650 GT, 2015 Indian Chieftain
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2004
Location: Brentwood, TN
 
Ossessionato
@tn_sooner avatar
2012 BV 350, 2013 BMW C650 GT, 2015 Indian Chieftain
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2004
Location: Brentwood, TN
UTC quote
Glad to see the updates! Thanks.
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
August 02 - 05, 2010
August 02, 2010

I got bored and walked down to a place called Sack's Cafe that I found on TripAdvisor. It came highly recommended with some glowing reviews for its food and service.

It ended up that I was the last customer of the afternoon and all the staff stood around waiting for me to finish so they could close. You don't get many positive vibes if the staff is waiting for you to throw down an expensive meal so they can leave. Good but certainly not great. I should have eaten at a reindeer vendor on the street corner at least I would have gotten some appreciation back for my money.

I went back to the downtown area to see if there was a possibility that I could have missed anything on my previous 20 visits. There wasn't.

I've been spending some of my time trying to find out if I can get a ferry to Vancouver or Bellingham, WA and cut a few days and miles off the trip. The AK website for the ferry system is pretty obtuse and a bit difficult to navigate so I haven't been able to work out a schedule.

I even emailed a 'Ferry Broker' and the only thing they have available is late in the month. The date I would be getting on the ferry is after I had planned on getting back to Florida.

The ferry system looks like a great option you just have to make reservations really early. And with that comes the issue of delays (tires, service, weather, etc.) and breakdowns that could doom you from making the ferry.

The weather is still overcast with low lying clouds. Less than 24 hours until I leave. I never thought I'd say this but I'm sick of Anchorage; time to leave.

August 03, 2010

As I pulled into the dealership early in the morning I was shocked to see that there was a group of riders waiting. It turns out they had ridden up from Whitehorse for the week.

One of the guys, riding a Burgman, mentioned he had seen me in Whitehorse a few weeks ago. It seems like years ago that I was through Whitehorse.

The Burgman rider is using an auto tire for his rear tire. He said he expects to get 20.000+ plus miles on it. Wow, 20k it's like a dream.

I hung out at the shop for awhile after turning the scooter over to the service department. I then went across the street for an overpriced cold breakfast and then came back and hung out some more.

I'm gettin' good at this hangin'. Need to know the price of just about every model of Honda generator produced for 2009-10? I got all the prices for you.

Finally the verdict from the shop was; they had ordered the wrong size tire! How in the world can that happen? They've had weeks to get the damn thing here. F*CK!

The parts guy said he could get one here the next day. He then went on and said that the additional charges were going to be $... I said hold it. Whose paying for the hotel I have to get, who paid for the hotel that I stayed in for days waiting for this tire? A few minutes later he came back and said there would be no additional charges.

Great, but no offer of comping me for the room.

I stayed at the Motel 6 just down the road. Motel 6 Anchorage - $154 a night!

I did get to see Inception after walking 5 miles one way to the theatre.

August 04, 2010

It was raining hard as I drove over to the dealership in the morning. The tire hadn't arrived. Off to that overpriced soggy breakfast I'm beginning to get fond of.

3.5 hours later I finally rolled out of the dealership. I would have thought they would have waived the shop charges as well but they stuck me with a bill. Is the owner of Alaska Cycle Center reading this?

Passing through Anchorage on my way to Florida - pretty optimistic since I probably have over 6000 miles to go, I swear the tire feels unbalanced but I just kept rolling. I wanted to get to Canada today which I don't think is going to happen with this late start.

I blew by Chickaloon and did not stop for gas. I'm sure I saw freshly dug graves out back as I rode by in the rain.

As it was overcast the Matanuska glacier looked drab and dull so I didn't even stop for pictures. This area is great to ride in as there are lots of curves and elevation changes, even in the rain 6000 miles from home I smiled, just a little.

It continued to rain intermittently all day long which only added the burden of the incredibly long trip I had in front of me. The gas stations seemed perfectly placed. I would ride until the low fuel light came on and just down the road was a gas station. Most of them had Diet Coke which is always a plus.

I started to hit a lot of wind a few miles south of Eureka. It was difficult to keep the scooter on the road at times and I was in the oncoming lane several times before I could get control of the scooter. Luckily there was light traffic.

Past Eureka when the clouds would break I began to see many mountains that were covered in snow with quite a few glaciers in the valleys. It was after about an hour that I realized that this was the Wrangell St. Elias Preserve. On the inbound trip it had been completely covered in fog and rain. It was still raining but the visibility had improved enough to see the mountains. On a clear day the view must be fantastic looking at that mountain range. Big, I mean real big.

I gave up in Tok, Alaska. Once again dinner at Fast Eddy's, the spaghetti this time. It looked far better than it tasted. I tried to get a room at Young's which is affiliated in some way with Fast Eddy's (same owner?) but they were still filled up like the last time.

Back over to Snowshoe Motel. They have a pretty good price for Alaska which becomes a great price if there is nothing else available in town. The only downside is that the Wi-Fi is really lame; slow, dropped connections, etc. If you're going to provide and advertise a service make sure it works. It's really frustrating trying to email from there.

August 05, 2010

I got a fairly early start on the way to Whitehorse. Whitehorse? It feels like I'm always headed to Whitehorse.

The roads were no better southbound towards Haines Junction than they were northbound just a few days ago. Truly the worst roads I've been on the whole trip.

No issues getting into Canada. It was far easier than the hassle I got entering the US (Alaska). I stopped at the Border City Lodge for fuel and some candy bars; I mean an apple and a banana.

The owner remembered me from the outbound leg of the trip. He was still kind of grumpy.

On I went eventually passing Burwash Landing that has that giant gold pan beside the road; which is about the only thing that Burwash Landing has. This is the start of Kluane Lake area.

I stopped at Destruction Bay to eat and get fuel. Walking in it seemed like a nice little cafe but the service and food were just so-so. While I was there a tour bus rolled in and the place quickly filled up.

After Destruction Bay I realized that the sun was out on a regular basis. It's probably been weeks since I've seen more than an hour or two of the sun in a row. I could get used to this.

The 'high wind' warning bridge crossing at the end of the lake was easy. Just a few gusts as I crossed out into the bay between the mountain ranges.

There is an abandoned gas station/motel just past the bridge that I noticed when I was going north 15 years ago. I stopped for a few minutes and took some pictures. They even had a small helipad in the parking lot.

Just south of this abandoned gas station I passed several vans and about 20 bicyclists parked at a rest area. The vans had 'Texas 4000' on the side. It turns out it is a charity ride from Austin, TX to Anchorage. I wonder how their getting back?

I ran across an old trailer parked back in the woods, not sure how I even saw it. I pulled over again to take a few pictures. I wonder what the story is there.

I blew through Haines Junction and didn't stop for an apple strudel or two.

I stopped at the Otter Falls Cutoff for more fuel and a candy bar or two, they didn't have any bananas. I should have stopped for a strudel earlier as the candy was a bit old.

According to owner the road is always passable or is very quickly reopened after a major storm. This will be the first year that they are going to try and be open year round.

Finally into Whitehorse. I stayed at the 2-0-2 Motor Inn this time. A 387 mile day.
Border City.
Border City.
Thanks for the warning.  How about putting some effort in FIXING the roads?
Thanks for the warning. How about putting some effort in FIXING the roads?
Kluane Lake runoff.
Kluane Lake runoff.
Destruction Bay, gas and food.
Destruction Bay, gas and food.
Back towards the southern end of Kluane Lake.
Back towards the southern end of Kluane Lake.
Abandoned gas station/motel at the southern end of Kluane Lake.
Abandoned gas station/motel at the southern end of Kluane Lake.
An old trailer I spotted back in the woods.
An old trailer I spotted back in the woods.
Otter Falls.
Otter Falls.
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 1 time
@noth avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Burgman 650 (May, 2012) MP3 500 (11/2009 - 5.2012)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1385
Location: Massachusetts- Boston South Shore
 
Molto Verboso
@noth avatar
Burgman 650 (May, 2012) MP3 500 (11/2009 - 5.2012)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1385
Location: Massachusetts- Boston South Shore
UTC quote
Thank you for posting the update. where are you now? Lot's of speculation about why you quit your wonderful updates... but please keep them coming !
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
noth wrote:
Thank you for posting the update. where are you now? Lot's of speculation about why you quit your wonderful updates... but please keep them coming !
Living in India. When I finish the 'trip' I'll post a post trip update.
@turkman avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2009 GTV 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2533
Location: Olympia, WA
 
Ossessionato
@turkman avatar
2009 GTV 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2533
Location: Olympia, WA
UTC quote
Chiaroscuro wrote:
noth wrote:
Thank you for posting the update. where are you now? Lot's of speculation about why you quit your wonderful updates... but please keep them coming !
Living in India. When I finish the 'trip' I'll post a post trip update.
You are amazing ! Let us know you're still around every now and then... 8)
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 294
UTC quote
August 06, 2010 Whitehorse to Ft. Nelson
I got another fairly early start although I was delayed for about half an hour talking to the locals as they crowded around when I pulled the cover off the scooter. We all agreed the road from Haines Junction to the Alaskan border is the worst road in North America. What surprised me was that within the past three years it has been repaved. Apparently the US government gave the Canadian government some money for the project. I have my doubts that they got a great return on their investment.

I wasn't sure where I was stopping today I just wanted to make some time south. I didn't even look at a map online. Maps are for people who don't like to get lost. I did know I didn't want to stop in Watson Lake. I like it less than Anchorage.

It started to rain and get cold about an hour outside of Whitehorse.

I had been thinking about heading back to Hyder, AK. The bears were now at Fish Creek River feeding on the salmon headed upstream. The feeding is one of those iconic images of Alaska that you see all the time but very rarely actually get to SEE it.

The downside to all this is that it's about 650 miles from Whitehorse to Hyder, a minimum of two days travel. Just from Watson Lake it's 400+ miles. So it would be two days to get there. Probably two days there and then another day or so to get back to the Alcan Highway. Way too much time and distance. I'm starting to feel this trip.

I told myself when I started that I didn't want to rush back south but now it's looking like all I can think of is getting this trip over.

About 80 miles south of Whitehorse is the Teslin River crossing. On the way up I had called it the Teslin River Bridge in fact it's the John's Crossing Bridge. Unless I've got that wrong. It was no less dangerous in the rain this time.

On the northbound leg I came out to the Alcan Highway at Watson Lake. So anything south of Watson Lake is new territory. Unless I'm completely confused and I'm actually in Alabama!

I stepped, yet, again, at the Continental Divide for fuel.

Just north of the turn onto 37 that take you to Hyder, which I didn't notice on the outbound leg, is a 'billboard roadmap'. By now I had convinced myself that I didn't want to go to Hyder yet looking at the billboard I was wondering if it was feasible. I mean how many times in a life are you actually in Alaska, in Alaska on a scooter, in Alaska on a scooter when the bears are feeding? If you answered yes more than once I hate you.

So I'm headed to Hyder. I could also check out Prince Rupert and see if there was a ferry available to Bellingham or Vancouver. Assuming the road actually went to Prince Rupert as I don't have a map.

This all came to a screeching halt a few minutes later as I made the turn onto 37 and was greeted by a line of campers and trucks. The road was closed because of wildfires. It's been closed for the past several days with very few openings. I spoke with some Native Indians (I hope I got that right) and they were going to leave their vehicle at the intersection of the Alcan and 37 and walk several miles to their home.

On to Watson Lake with a quick stop for gas. Everything south of Watson Lake is new.

I stopped again at Coal River for gas and some food. A surprisingly good burger and fries.

About 18 miles south of Coal River you pass into the Smith River Fort Halkett Protected Area. What do they have there; lots and lots of bison hanging out along the road. I saw more bison in 10 miles than I saw in all of Yellowstone. Does Ted Turner have a ranch nearby?

Just 20 miles south of that is Liard River Hot Springs that everyone raves about, even with the occasional bear attacks. As much as I wanted to stop I kept pushing on.

40 miles south of Liard you hit Muncho Lake. I never heard of it until the day I rode past it. It's a fairly big lake that has depths of up to 700+ feet in areas.

You ride right next to the lake. At times there is literally no place to pull off. You would have to cross the oncoming lane to be able to pull off or have the ability to ride on water.

There are some pretty spectacular mountains that surround the lake that add its immense beauty. Again, another place I'd love to stop at but there just doesn't seem to be the time.

Here's where it got kind of confusing for me. The road next to the lake looks like, well it looks like some backwater two lane highway, not the mighty Alcan.

I had a sneaking suspicion that I might have turned off the Alcan somehow for the 'scenic bypass.' Sneaky Canadians bastards!

I kept riding on though hoping it would all sort out at the end of the day. Just past the lake a reindeer crossed the road in front of me. The first time I'd seen one this close. Then a few miles later as I was making the climb out of the lake there were sheep in the road and all along the rocks next to it. I stopped for a few pictures but it was getting dark so they didn't turn out as well as I had hoped.

It had been sometime since I'd seen a gas station so I was getting pretty worried about fuel and the fact I thought I was lost and the fact it was getting dark and the fact I hadn't packed a 6-pack of Bud Light Lime on ice.

30 miles past Mucho Lake is Toad River and Toad River has a gas pump. I pulled in a few minutes before nine. Very lucky for me as they close at nine and there wasn't going to be gas for some time.

Toad River is also known as the place that has all the hats on the ceiling. It wasn't really that impressive. They're also known for their soft serve ice-cream. They didn't have any ice cream so I was forced to look at the hats. But at least they had some gas. If they didn't have gas I can't see a reason for pulling in. After you've seen two or three hundred hats hanging from a ceiling you've seen them all. They also had a map that confirmed that I was still on the Alcan Highway.

Probably at one time the 'hats' were a big draw but times have changed. Ok, ok I'll probably pull back into look at the hats if I ever pass by.

By the time I got back on the road it was almost dark. And then it was dark. That sun doesn't take long to drop behind the mountains. The road from here was full of kickbacks and climbs the further along I got. Somewhere along here I rolled 13000 miles on the odometer.

30 miles south of Toad River you cross into Stone Mountain Provincial Park. Summit Lake is here; which is the highest point on the Alcan Highway at 4250 feet.

It seemed much higher than 4000+ feet. I was climbing in the dark with absolutely no ambient light, none whatsoever. It was the darkest of the trip so far. And I had no real idea as to what or where the next town was. I was starting to think that maybe I had pushed my luck as most of the places close at 9 or 10 at night and by now it was way past that.

I knew that if I wanted a place to sleep that I would have to commit to the first place I came to because it was so late. The long climbs in the dark and the lack of light made this area seem very remote. Kind of scary. I didn't cry though.

Occasionally I would pass pullouts and see campers and a few motorcycles with tents pitched. But everyone was asleep as I never saw a light coming from any of them. That or they were laying there in the dark waiting for me to pass. I need to get a tent, a sleeping bag and a map ASAP.

Crossing the ridge line out of the state park there was a large lighted sign flashing warnings of gravel roads for the next 80 km! I wanted to scream. 80 km, I'll be out here all night!

For the next 40 or so miles I came across a few small sections of gravel but nothing too dramatic. However riding in total darkness with images of that flashing sign definitely amped up the fear level.

Late that night I finally reached the point of no return on the gas. I didn't have enough to return to Toad River which had closed at 9 and I had no idea where the next station was. My ace in the hole what that I was still carrying a spare can that would give me another 100 miles or so should I need it.

I figured that with the extra fuel I could ride until about 0300 at the rate I was using it, pull over and hang out until the morning and try and get some fuel from a passing vehicle. Miserable, but doable.

But my luck held as I finally rolled into Fort Nelson! I couldn't believe it. The low fuel light hadn't come on but the gauge was at empty. If it wasn't so late and I wasn't so tired I would have pulled over and kissed the 'Welcome to Fort Nelson' sign twice and that second one would have been a long slow one.

I rolled up to the Ramada Inn looking for a room. When I went in the office the night clerk was sound asleep behind the desk. I mean out cold. I made some noise, bumped into a few things, coughed and he still didn't stir. I had to go around the counter to wake him up.

591 miles which I think is pretty amazing considering the roads and the night riding.
Not '2' bad.  Get it? '2-0-2', not '2' bad!  Never mind.
Not '2' bad. Get it? '2-0-2', not '2' bad! Never mind.
The CBC, still rockin' the Yukon or wherever the hell I am.
The CBC, still rockin' the Yukon or wherever the hell I am.
Tacky, yes.  But I still turned around to get this picture.
Tacky, yes. But I still turned around to get this picture.
I still think some money laundering is going on here.  But they have gas and Diet Coke.
I still think some money laundering is going on here. But they have gas and Diet Coke.
You are here.
You are here.
I was here.
I was here.
I didn't even notice the backside of this sign on the ride out from Hyder.  Note the campers and vehicles waiting because of the fire.
I didn't even notice the backside of this sign on the ride out from Hyder. Note the campers and vehicles waiting because of the fire.
Watson Lake.  No Harley trailer this time.
Watson Lake. No Harley trailer this time.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Bison!
Bison!
Coal River.  Pretty good burger and fries.
Coal River. Pretty good burger and fries.
Hats.
Hats.
Toad River and gas.  I was so lucky here.
Toad River and gas. I was so lucky here.
They are NOT kidding - slow down.
They are NOT kidding - slow down.
Sheep!
Sheep!
⚠️ Last edited by Chiaroscuro on UTC; edited 2 times
@dooglas avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
GTS 300ABS, Buddy 125, Buddy Kick 125
Joined: UTC
Posts: 13463
Location: Oregon City, OR
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@dooglas avatar
GTS 300ABS, Buddy 125, Buddy Kick 125
Joined: UTC
Posts: 13463
Location: Oregon City, OR
UTC quote
Your photos and narrative are great! Anxious to hear about the final legs. I don't want to rush to the bottom line, but your account so far sounds like the scooter mostly took all this stride. Glad to hear that!
DoubleGood Design banner

Modern Vespa is the premier site for modern Vespa and Piaggio scooters. Vespa GTS300, GTS250, GTV, GT200, LX150, LXS, ET4, ET2, MP3, Fuoco, Elettrica and more.

Buy Me A Coffee
 

Shop on Amazon with Modern Vespa

Modern Vespa is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com


All Content Copyright 2005-2024 by Modern Vespa.
All Rights Reserved.


[ Time: 0.0819s ][ Queries: 4 (0.0389s) ][ live ][ 318 ][ ThingOne ]