Modern Vespa

Hi there!
so, another issue here on my Sprint. I post the problem if somebody has had the same problem or any suggestions.
I noticed a damaged front tyre sidewall, so I figured and verified that the tyre sidewall is getting into contact with the suspension somehow. Tyre pressure is high so that's no issue. The excursion of the damper pin downward when I brake and put all my weight on the bar, is about 1 inch. The tyre spins free when the front is not loaded and has a gap (sidewall of tyre to spring) of 0.5 cm. It also spins free when riding and I do not brake and the suspension is not loaded.
But obviously something is wrong. Maybe something got out of place? the damper is exhausted?
Thanks for now
Al

omg!

i really hope you are not riding that bike?? stop if you are. first and foremost your spring is going to fail at any minute.

are those tires are as old as that bike? if they are CEAT you can expect a failure the next time you ride.

and the rims? seriously, replace all that before you drive it. please say you will.

yea that dampener is toast too. i bet the brakes are bad too. man. no way. do you see how serious i am?

+1 and is the wheel leaning over.

Grumpy

Is the speedo or brake cable rubbing on the tyre?

The seal on his dampner is shot [see the oil] and the spring is gone . listen to james john DO NOT RIDE THAT SCOOT. The rubbing could be a bent axle . It's not that uncommon .

I am not riding it now. But I just did a 100 miles rally with it last weekend. Something happened during that ride since it was ok before.
There's nothing wrong with the rims, it's just a little rusty and it brakes great. So I guess I should replace spring and damper. While I am there, should I also replace the bearings on the steering column? Is it possible to but a caged bearing type like for the P200 here on the Sprint? Thanks!

Thanks. Do you know how I can check if the axle is bent?
Al

I had a bent front axle and I would get a "vibration" using the front brake.

I did a full rebuild and would suggest that you do that.
Spring
Damper
Axle
clean the needle bearings...etc.

Clean out all the old grease. When I did mine it looked like the original grease was still in there. It had the consistance...and color..of drywall joint compound

I think your spring is on upside down, that may be part of the problem.

Thanks for all the contributions, going for a rebuild now.
How can you tell the spring is upside down? Since it is tapered?

I do not think the axle is bent, since I can ride it with no hands and it goes perfectly straight, plus no vibrations, never.

I'll change bearings, damper and spring I think. I'll see about the axle. if corroded, I think I'll replace it. I'll post some pics during the work.
Thanks a lot guys, you rock!

This would be my bet.

Also the curve in the spring may just be that the lower pivot has frozen up.

u should change the spring and also the upper and under spring retainer cap it seem that ur spring eating ur rubber

Yep, just looking at the pictures that you have taken gave me the inclination that it should be smaller side up, it matches the profile of the tire to hub. Like this \//\, not like \/\/. I'm no expert, but I would have to say there is probably a good reason behind tapering the spring.

Smaller side is always down. The spring is in correctly. In fact, it's practically impossible to put the spring in upside down, based on how it mounts in there.

I can see it now, it would hit the swing arm side, thanks for the correction.

so tonight I took the fork and the suspension apart. The damper is shot, but the spring, once removed, stands straight. So that bending was an elastic deformation. The tyre was rubbing on the top spring attachment arm, since it was all polished there. Corrosion is not too bad. I am going to replace the spring and the damper, but I am worried is something else, since as I said the spring is fine. Any tougths? The axle seems fine.
Maybe the damper lost the hard stop? or the lower pivot does not swing correctly, but it turns..

HELP!
how do I remove the bearing race from the steering column in order to get the fender off?
I tried by heating it and do some leverage with a screwdriver on the steering stops with no success at all. Do you need to heat it a lot? I used a propane camping stove

do you mean this one?

Yes, exactly. Thank you Len

Heating it would normally be a good idea, but since it is pressed up against the steering stops, and they are made out of aluminium. Aluminum is a better conductor of heat, and it expands more than steel does, so in fact you are making it more difficult to remove. I know this from experience.

Die Wespe Kind

Take a blunt nail punch or an old screwdriver and a hammer, and tap under the bottom of the dust cup. You'll need to tap around the dust cup, not just in one spot. It will be slow going at first, but it will reach a point where it frees up. You'll need a new dust cup when done, and I usually replace the bearing race too. By the way, do the tapping where the bearing race gives backing to your tapping, otherwise you'll just tear up the edges of the dust cup with no real benefit.

I'm sure someone has a better way, mine is just the low-tech solution.

Here's a pic of the expended dust cup after removal:

+1 i am using the same way as u did len

Hi guys,
first of all thanks a lot, I was able to remove the bearing race and then the fender, much easier to work now. Ok so I identified the problem: the bearing or bushing on which the spring lower mount rotates is seized. So I am trying to take it apart.

1) How do you take the hub off? I removed part 2,3,4 and part 27,28,29 of the drawing:
http://www.scooterhelp.com/manuals/VLB.VNC.VBC.parts.manual/page24.jpg
but the hub doesn't come off. What is part 63?

2) how do I then take part 45 and 48 out? tapping from the hub side or the other?

I attach some pictures so you can see the status...

i believe that 45-48 is all a press fit. you are gonna need help with that.

you can bang 10 out by using a punch in the center of the axle and hit from the spring side to the hub side. it should push the hub off as well. then you can prop the hub and bang off the axle from the hub side.

replace all the internals you can reach. it made a world of difference with mine. and a new axle even if it looks fine.

then use one side of the axle nut to torque on the other.

use lots of heat on the housing to remove and replace the bearings. i used a blind hole bearing puller.

Has anybody direct experience with a Sprint front axle removal?
I cannot take it off.
What is part 63 in here:
http://www.scooterhelp.com/manuals/VLB.VNC.VBC.parts.manual/page24.jpg

jamesjohn, thank you for your post but I cannot remove it by punching from side opposite to the hub..

part #63 looks like a woodruff key. I haven't rebuilt a front end before, but that's sure what it looks like to me.

63 is the key. and yea you can bash it out. what other way is there? cut it out? if both nuts are off both sides then there is nothing else in the way. and yes i have done this before.

Hello

You have also noted you have a stud missing 8)


Grumpy

So thanks jamesjohn, I managed to get the hub and axle out. I guess I was too cautious and didn't hit hard enough. So now I am a step from success!
I have to take the hub pivot pin ( part 48 ) out and fix the bushing onto which the spring swivels. Whaty do you think I should do? You say 45-48 is all a press fit.. How do I get it out? heat? punching on which side? Thanks again, I would have never done it without the help of you guys!
al bert

you are gonna have to take it to a machine shop where they have a 200 million ton press and push it out. but, i have not done that part as mine was fine and i left it alone. anyone else?

Ok, I found a press in the machine shop at school they are going to let me use

Would you heat the hub with a torch?

Which side would you press it from?

most def use heat. i use MAPP and only hit for about 20-30 seconds. for butane go longer, maybe 1 minute. you dont want to heat it too much but you gotta warm it so its just barely touchable.

i dont know which way to press it. i guess you can only press it from the spring side since the dust cover is in the way from the hub side. take your time and be careful.

200 million tons? Holy crap that's one big press

That's what she said.

So, I didn't manage to take that pin off but with spraying a lot of anti corrosive and a big deal of heat it now rotates around. So I placed a new spring, damper (looks nice).

Now the axle. by tightening the castellated nut on the hub side or the nut on the other side directly on the bearing, I noticed that you can easily lock the hub of the wheel against the backing plate (dust cover). So what is the procedure here? Does this mean that the axle is not all the way through (to the hub side)? How do you guys usually do this? Thanks!

So I put everything back together, yes! Does anybody know how long the front fork spring for a VLB has to be? I saw that there are different lenghts so I might have had a wrong one.

It should be part number 26847 for VLB1 up to 014977 and then part number 79716

Thanks!