Modern Vespa

I was thinking more like $167.00...

This one popped up on Craigslist near me. The LML motor is a bit confusing as I don't think those usually go into bodges.
Is this one a bodge?
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/for/d/downers-grove-1966-vespa-150-piaggio/7102238933.html

I dunno.. others are more knowledgeable about specific models, which I am not. But it DOES have a MPH speedo, which the bodges usually don't have (they're typically metric).

Based on the quick glance, it's shiny and hardly ever ridden... 57 miles. A couple of quick questions of the seller will let you know if they were involved in the restoration (if, in fact, there was a restoration). Anyone who was involved in a restoration (even if all they did was write checks) can tell you about details of the restoration and why they chose certain options or performance upgrades.

I could tell you details of my scoot (it's not bodgy at all, just a mostly original P200). I can tell you I got a good deal on mounted tires/tubes/wheels from Rob Hodge (through SIP), and this is why I no longer have the original wheels. I can tell you that the jetting is weirdly non-stock... someone before me wanted to get great gas mileage while giving up some top end speed (which I'm fine with).

I just finished renovating an old 1890's house.... moving in tomorrow! Anyway, I didn't do anything more than write a lot of checks, but I can tell you why I went to the Amish for my cabinets, and that the bathroom door is slightly different from the rest (I had to replace a modern one with a period correct, and mostly matching one I bought in Maryland). It's not restored to original (not that I could ascertain what was original anyway), but more of a restomod!

Maybe a quick email or phone call might help you get to the root of it, unless you're just tire kicking, which I understand.... curiosity/cats and all.....

It has a PX non-oiler fuel tank...which is a nice upgrade for a non-oiler P series, but this isn't a P.

I shot the seller an email asked if he had information on the scooter restoration and if it came from Asia. This was the reply.
"No information on the restoration, THE MOTOR IS AN LML WITH 52 miles on it, not an asian import. Far as I know Its an Italian made scooter US titled. "

I'd believe that part of it is a P, probably the back part.

That thing is bodgy as all hell. If it has an LML motor in it, then I'd wonder about that, too, since LML hasn't made a motor in about two years and most of the crate motors seem to have been bought up at this point.

I love that fuel tap lever, too. I wonder if it doubles as a backup helmet hook

Looks OKayish to me. Not your typical bodge. Wrong era parts, etc. yes, but SEA bodge, probably not...

Somebody dumped a LARGE can o' money into it looks like, wonder how well they did it? I don't see any obvious red flags either. Somebody had more fun building it than riding it probably.

This looks almost like the same scooter, right down to the missing rubber on the kickstart.
I guess it may be an ASC restoration?
1964 VBB 150 (PPI Pre purchase inspection)

What's wrong with this picture

Other than the 10" wheels on an 8" bike and the too-long spring for the fork?

Is the wheel mounted backwards?

Winner over here!...the hub stud has been replaced with a hex bolt.

So who has bought a vespa from Vespa planet and are actually happy?

Noone ever won at that game!

Bodge?
https://vermont.craigslist.org/d/motorcycles-scooters/search/mca

Yes. Perfect example...

Thank you but as I am trying to educate myself on bodges, could you provide a couple points on what makes this a bodge?

I really like the look of a stainless lefthand expansion on a Sprint or Super. It kinda fills the void that houses the spare wheel on a GS/SS/Rally/P. It's a shame that it's one of the hallmarks of a bodge

Yeah I definitely noted the exhaust

Only $10,000 each.

Def a a bodgy look if its a crappy knock-off sea built pipe. Now throw on a nice JL Expansion and tuned up motor and big air sucking carb, you'll be doing fine

- Dual gloveboxes
- 10" wheels on an 8" bike
- cheap chrome
- incorrect floormat
- ignition by the fuel tap
- fork lock
- a points flywheel on a CDI bike
- sketchy welding on the cowl retention loop
- sketchy bondo producing an oval real cowl pin hole
- The already-mentioned stainless SEA JL Knockoff pipe
- The excessive height of the front tire on the stand

I'm sure others have more.

$10,000 each

Thanks for the laugh

He will quickly price it down soon... or both will go to storage...

Is this one?

1966 Numbers. The engine and frame are from the same year when I checked the numbers.

"bodge" chrome bumpers were removed by me.
Cluster is not original.
The paint is not original and pretty horrible.
*I did the white wheels*

Other then that is pretty decent, I think.
No misc bolts
Removed the engine top and it seemed clean.
Carb is original
Drives pretty good, engine pulls nicely
nothing too shiny (other than the removed bumpers)
8inch wheels still
Switch the headlight, all the wiring was ok
Horn looks original and sounds bad

Anyway, I didn't pay much (for today's standards) and it's been fine for me so far but if it is a bodge, what should I be worried about? Where should I look for bad news ? the column?

looks like a SEA bodge to me... all that shiny bits

giveaways to me are the seats / crash bars and the flywheel cowl

Ok but the real question here is: what should I be worried about? Where should I look for bad news ? the column?

Here's the front view

pull the gas tank and look for any evidence of welding together of multiple frames, especially into the tunnel (stick your camera in there and take a pic).

That, along with sketchy internals of the motor, are going to be your two biggest risks.

Pull the hubs and check that the brake pads aren't a millimeter thick and are round enough that they have good contact.

Check the flywheel for play in any direction.

Check compression.

If all of those things are good, then you're not in terrible shape. If any of them are off, you got problems, friend.

those protection bars that you removed certainly suggest SEA.
add to Chandlerman's list: check the front and rear hub cotter pins.
are they both actually cotter pins?
shoot pic and post !

What do you all think about this 1972 Vespa Super 150? I see it has the 10" wheel conversion, but that actually seems like a good thing to me. It's just $1500
More pics here: https://imgur.com/a/fofBKY0

WHAT? Did you decide to only read pages 88 & 89?
Pretty sure IF you also read pages 1-87 you will be able to answer your own question... give it a go, then re-ask the above question

Sure looks bodgy. 10" is good, but If you want at 10" scooter; buy one that left the factory that way

Didn't have time to look into the frame again, but last time I had a overall look inside there it look fine, but I did not stick my camera into the tunnel.

Brake pads are good. The drums are a little rough but nothing unsuual.

Flywheel has no play.

Compression seems ok but I did not measured it with a compression tester yet.

I do drive the thing on daily basis, so far I snapped a shifter cable and that's about it. It drives fine for a 1966, except for the front lower bearing that seems to be loose. I will look into the column, this week hopefully and change upper and lower bearings.

Oh yeah also the rear drive shaft has a small play in it. I'll have to look into that too. Yes, when I saw the bars in this thread that's when I thought it might be one, but it also can be someone bought somewhere and installed in north america, no?

Cutter pin is in rear but there's no cutter pin in the front, it's totally diffrent nut. Not sure if the hub shaft even has a hole in it for the cotter pin.

Some more photos:

Front wheel:





Rear wheel:



Before the carb rebuild kit and the new air filter:



The replica speedo:




Random photos:

Someone's delusional ($12,500)...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303596614271

https://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/mcd/d/royal-palm-beach-1963-vespa-1963-gray/7143496232.html

Planet Vespa sample

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/mcy/d/saratoga-1966-vespa-vbc-super/7141855237.html

I would check the engine rear shock mount, lot of the engine from SEA has cracked and has to be welded. Other than that like other said, you might want to remove the gas tank to see if there is any patch welding, then the tunnel, also check the steering column.

I would check the engine rear shock mount, lot of the engine from SEA has cracked and has to be welded. Other than that like other said, you might want to remove the gas tank to see if there is any patch welding, then the tunnel, also check the steering column.