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@birdsnest avatar
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@birdsnest avatar
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Help me out mobsters.

I have tried to clean rust out of my 180 Oil tank multiple times. It's not getting any better. (See the rust and grit from this mornings efforts below.)

Should I just throw in the towel and go premix. Is there a magical cleaning method/solution that someone can suggest? All thoughts appreciated.
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@jamesjohn avatar
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Ossessionato
1970 Vespa Rally 180
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Location: Denton Tx.
 
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1970 Vespa Rally 180
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simple green works fantastic on oil/grease and is non-toxic/non-flammable.

if you are about to throw in the towel, then try some non traditional methods.
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Molto Verboso
1974 Rally USA 200 1980 P200e
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Molto Verboso
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Rinse it well back flush each time. Go to auto store or home depot and get some Navel jelly. Put some gloves on and eye protection. Get a couple of hand fulls of small hex nuts throw them in there with the Jelly and seal it up. Shake it around on an off for a couple of hours let it sit. Rinse it well, back wash well . It should come out sparkly clean. Fill with oil as soon as possible. I dried mine out with a hair drier. Brian
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I've been doing the nuts, bolts, boiling water, simple green method. 3 times total. I have been hesitant to go with the nav-jelly, but I guess it's worth a shot before I dump the autolube.

I have some concern about the weld area for the site-glass. That spot is in the worst shape it seems, and certainly where the majority of the rust and corrosion is. I think it had moisture or water pool in that spot as it sat unused at some point. The weld area feels weak from the outside, and as mentioned 3 runs of the "simple-green-nut-shake" (dig, it's the new dance) and that spot is still a crusty, flaky mess.
@astromags avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
'80 P200E, '76 Primavera 125 ET3. '59 Vespa 150
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@astromags avatar
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UTC quote
Stating the obvious:

The good thing about premixing is you don't have to worry about if the autolube is working. You always know you've got the right amount of oil in the fuel.
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Moderibbit
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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@xantufrog avatar
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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UTC quote
astromags wrote:
Stating the obvious:
*with premix* You always know you've got the right amount of oil in the fuel.
Kind of...

Premix is actually inferior in that 2% is a little too oily for low RPMs and a little under-oiled for WOT.

Autolube adjusts from under 2% to 3+% based on RPMs and throttle position. Plus, the autolube mechanism itself is fairly bulletproof. Doesn't help in this situation, unfortunately for Birdsnest.

I say this more for clarification, though, than in argument, since premix obviously worked well for many years prior to the introduction of autolube.
@astromags avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
'80 P200E, '76 Primavera 125 ET3. '59 Vespa 150
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@astromags avatar
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Excellent info xantu. I love learning all the little details. If only I could retain them.
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Well, the nav-jelly definitely helped.

Wash-throughs post treatment had about 75% less rust and muck. Albeit, it still has areas that are... well... just toasted.

I *think* it should be in fair enough shape now to put some gentle miles on it.
@mike_z avatar
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Addicted
1958 Lambretta LI 190, 1968 Vespa Rally 180, 2005 Sym HD200
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@mike_z avatar
1958 Lambretta LI 190, 1968 Vespa Rally 180, 2005 Sym HD200
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UTC quote
Birdsnest wrote:
I've been doing the nuts, bolts, boiling water, simple green method. 3 times total. I have been hesitant to go with the nav-jelly, but I guess it's worth a shot before I dump the autolube.

I have some concern about the weld area for the site-glass. That spot is in the worst shape it seems, and certainly where the majority of the rust and corrosion is. I think it had moisture or water pool in that spot as it sat unused at some point. The weld area feels weak from the outside, and as mentioned 3 runs of the "simple-green-nut-shake" (dig, it's the new dance) and that spot is still a crusty, flaky mess.
disabling the working oil injection on a stock or mildly tuned bike is crazy talk.

I've had good luck using CLR. You should be able to unscrew the sight glass and scrub it out with a brush then flush it clean. You can also do the muriatic acid thing or have it boiled out at a radiator shop, both will get it clean as a whistle but the latter will likely remove the paint as well.
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Molto Verboso
1974 Rally USA 200 1980 P200e
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Birdsnest wrote:
Well, the nav-jelly definitely helped.

Wash-throughs post treatment had about 75% less rust and muck. Albeit, it still has areas that are... well... just toasted.

I *think* it should be in fair enough shape now to put some gentle miles on it.
Do it again

That Navel Jelly eats the rust!

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