Tools required - large ratchet and socket set. Screwdriver
Time - approx 15 minutes
How:
Remove pet carrier
Remove access panel near the HT Coil
Remove Spark plug cap
Place appropriate size socket over spark plug
Attach large ratchet to socket (The large ratchet sticks out of the access panel so you can get your hand on it properly).
Ratchet away.
The only issue is that if you unscrew it too far, there is not enough room to remove the ratchet, socket and spark plug all in one go. So simply unscrew the spark plug enough so it's pretty loose, disengage the ratchet (this is the hardest part, but I just use a screwdriver to press the ratchet release instead of trying to get my finger in between the cowl and the ratchet head.) and turn the socket by hand and there you have it. Reverse order for fitting. I am 6ft 4in and 250 pounds and so do not have little hands, am also a total novice but I managed a complete change in about 15 minutes.
Absolutely no need to drop the engine or spend hours on it.
Large Ratchets are about £15-£20 on ebay.