Modern Vespa

I'm about ready to replace my rear brake shoes for the first time. I have all the new parts I need, and a few tutorials. I have seen mention of cutting the shoes with a Dremel or hacksaw - to make them more effective. I know that I can't cut them too deep.

Wondering if anyone can tell me if this is a good idea, and if so, the specific pattern I should do. How deep?

Thanks in advance.

on a vnb I would not bother. On most bikes I would not bother. On the rear of my smallframe I use a triangular file to cut grooves at 45 deg about half way through the pad.

However, you should chamfer both the leading and trailing ends of the friction material no mater what bike it is.

Thanks so much. This last move you mentioned has not been mentioned in any of the sources I've used to get acquainted with the procedure.

Can you give me some details please. Are you just talking about filing off the square ends of the braking material, on a 45 degree angle?

What's the benefit to cutting the shoes like this? It would reduce the friction area, which seems bad to me. But perhaps adds leading edges?

Would you see an utility in doing this on P200 shoes? At 60+ mph it couldn't hurt to improve the stopping power.

It has been mentioned on a couple web sites, as well as a couple books I got about general maintenance.

The theory appears to be allowing water to run off, which newer brake pads have already done to them at the factory. The older brake pads for my bike do not come pre-cut.

Obviously, my bike has been running just fine without it, so I might skip it, but another poster mentioned cutting down the edge of the material - but never elaborated.

you file down the leading edges of the pads. it's not rocket surgery, you just need to remove the rough edges so the brakes make a more gradual contact, rather than on/off.

Wasn't suggesting it was rocket surgery, just wanted some clarification. I have never done this before, which is why i posted in the first place.

I just found it a bit odd that I had never seen mention of this part of the procedure in ANY of the places I have looked - but the poster wrote as if it's a given to do this.

Here's a picture from my smallframe showing the slots and chamfer.

The chamfer helps assure the leading edge of the shoe does not grab. This is mostly important on the leading edge of the leading shoe as the torque applied to the shoe at that point can be high enough to prevent the shoe from retracting. Not common, but possible.

The slots help to clear dust, gas, and anything else that may find itself between the friction material and the drum.

Thanks Patrick, makes sense!

For the record, Norstudio, Patrick here is a very accomplished mechanic. Usually he knows his stuff! Which is why I get all fluttery and atwitter when he addresses my questions! *winky, smiley, batty eyes*

Thanks SO much for the photo. I had thought that the reference was for the black pad part - which is why I needed some clarification.

This really helps. Appreciate your time and expertise.