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Weird - my 500 has started to sound like it's missing going down the road sometimes. Nothing out of the ordinary I'll just be tooling along at a steady speed and it starts feeling like it's cutting out for a bit then it runs smooth again. New Iridium plugs in my last service about 2500 miles ago. I doubt the air filter is clogged.
Any ideas what to look at?
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whip out and clean engine shut off button, also check plugs, just because they are new don't mean they work!
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Is the bulb black or clear on the airbox?
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UTC quote
when you last filled up , did you use the same gas station?

Have you ever cleaned the throttle body?

And I would check the air filter just to be sure.
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All my switches and connections have had the clean, dielectric grease and seal treatment.
The bulb is clear. I lost my original bulb and made my own with tubing which I sealed at the bottom. Odd actually - I used to collect quite a bit of oil here.
I will check the plugs today.
I'll also clean the airfilter - I'll hate it but I'll do it.
Same gas station as usual - Costco 80% of the time.
I have not cleaned the throttle body. I have to completely remove the airbox to do this? If so I can get a can of cleaner (yes I know - not just carb cleaner) and git-r-done while the airbox is apart.

Bear in mind this isn't an all the time thing - just at add moments and seemingly when it shouldn't - at cruising speed around 50-60 mph or so. It doesn't stumble when I accelerate and in fact it seems to "clear its throat' when I do accelerate when it stumbles.

Looks like a maintenance day - hope the heat is reasonable today...
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Maybe the problem is with fuel not getting to the engine all the time? While you're under the bike, check to make sure there's no kinks or other problems with the fuel lines.

I don't know if that could happen anyway, but if you're already working underneath it, it can't hurt to look...

Mark
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Re: My 500 has started to "stumble"
BubbaJon wrote:
Weird - my 500 has started to sound like it's missing going down the road sometimes. Nothing out of the ordinary I'll just be tooling along at a steady speed and it starts feeling like it's cutting out for a bit then it runs smooth again. New Iridium plugs in my last service about 2500 miles ago. I doubt the air filter is clogged.
Any ideas what to look at?
At one point, mine started doing that too. Believe it or not, it turned out to be a loose connection at the battery terminal! Worth checking. Took all of 3 minutes to fix.
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mine started similiar action, found the stop kill sw vibrated up some. Just flipped it twice and no more "ghost stalls"!
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Re: My 500 has started to "stumble"
dkrz123 wrote:
At one point, mine started doing that too. Believe it or not, it turned out to be a loose connection at the battery terminal! Worth checking. Took all of 3 minutes to fix.
Good point - I need to check connections anyway.
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Check the seat sensor. Mine was dropping power every now and then and Piaggio have now replaced the seat, touch wood everything seems to be OK now.
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From the seat bypass thread, I was told the seat bypass sensor only applies during tilt lock.
So you could stand up while riding normally and it won't do anything... suggesting if it was faulty or not, it wouldn't do anything.
Currently I'm riding with it unplugged, and haven't wired in the bypass resistor yet.

Did Piaggio do anything else that might have solved the problem?
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deepfraught wrote:
From the seat bypass thread, I was told the seat bypass sensor only applies during tilt lock.
So you could stand up while riding normally and it won't do anything... suggesting if it was faulty or not, it wouldn't do anything.
Currently I'm riding with it unplugged, and haven't wired in the bypass resistor yet.

Did Piaggio do anything else that might have solved the problem?
+ 1. On long rides I frequently stand up on the floor boards and never a problem with engine power. Also rev engine on the center stand, standing beside MP3 and tilt off.
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Fuzzy wrote:
deepfraught wrote:
From the seat bypass thread, I was told the seat bypass sensor only applies during tilt lock.
So you could stand up while riding normally and it won't do anything... suggesting if it was faulty or not, it wouldn't do anything.
Currently I'm riding with it unplugged, and haven't wired in the bypass resistor yet.

Did Piaggio do anything else that might have solved the problem?
+ 1. On long rides I frequently stand up on the floor boards and never a problem with engine power. Also rev engine on the center stand, standing beside MP3 and tilt off.
+1 - it would cripple any bike to have a cutout if your butt comes off the seat. Logic should tell you the seat sensor is unlikely at speed.
I pulled the plugs yesterday. One of 'em damn near gave me a heart attack putting it in - it was acting like I'd stripped it but it finally tightened up. *whew*!! Anyway I gotta say these engines make no sense to me - they have an ECU that supposedly runs lean - so why are my plugs black? They were black on the first plugs too. I have the Iridium plugs and the insulator is white near the electrode but gets black deeper in and around the body where it's exposed in the combustion chamber. Weird. Anyway I haven't had the issue in a bit - I'm wondering if it's just the heat - perhaps it's the freeway running after I've been stuck in traffic a bit. I'll need to pay more attention what has occurred before the stumbling...
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UTC quote
my Fuoco is stalling too...
glad to read your post - have been meaning to write too.
I have the same problem.

whilst driving (for example autobahn 80mph or B-roads 50-60mph) at about 3/4 throttle, every now and then the scooter just cuts out, chokes...as if someone abruptly turns the gas throttle back to its zero position. as you can imagine, it's extremely unnerving, when overtaking someone with oncoming traffic.

I have been to my dealers - had a new battery fitted; new plugs too.
I will have a look at the air filter as well, just to be sure.

I just don't know if it's a software problem, a hardware problem (a faulty switch for example), or a fuel supply prolem.

what else can I do?
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Just to be clear mine isn't like a cutting out problem - more like a fuel delivery problem - like I'm about to run out of gas sort of stumble.
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UTC quote
Re: my Fuoco is stalling too...
urzwoo wrote:
glad to read your post - have been meaning to write too.
I have the same problem.

whilst driving (for example autobahn 80mph or B-roads 50-60mph) at about 3/4 throttle, every now and then the scooter just cuts out, chokes...as if someone abruptly turns the gas throttle back to its zero position. as you can imagine, it's extremely unnerving, when overtaking someone with oncoming traffic.

I have been to my dealers - had a new battery fitted; new plugs too.
I will have a look at the air filter as well, just to be sure.

I just don't know if it's a software problem, a hardware problem (a faulty switch for example), or a fuel supply prolem.

what else can I do?
Yours sounds like the "classic" run switch issue. Try cleaning it and putting dielectric grease on the contacts. It's about a 15 minute job tops.
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UTC quote
Welcome Urzwoo,

General troubleshooting approach is to look at fuel and spark for combustion, and for EFI battery electricity for ECU, fuel pump etc.

The abrupt cut could be loss of ignition, by bad high tension leads or connection to spark plugs, or to coil/igniter at other end.

Loose or poor electrical connections at fuses and connectors could cause electrical glitch cutting ignition (edit: like kill switch said above)

Experience helps where you check first, but something such as a faulty throttle position sensor, and ultimately all diagnosis suggests swapping out the ECU. If you have a friend with the same bike, comparing suspect parts and swapping between test rides is a great economical diagnosis.

###
BubbaJon, I'm not sure what effect an imperfect plug chop has on the reading to a perfect one, e.g. how much of the deceleration and idle combustion affects the plugs before you kill the engine.

I've heard on bikes to do the perfect plug chop for any riding condition, e.g. WOT, pull the clutch and kill the engine at the same time. You don't want overrun combustion or idle off throttle combustion to taint the reading.

I imagine for ours you would just have to kill the ignition, hoping the revs drop and the clutch disengages.

After talking about going to advanced rider training and to the track, I thought I'd like to get a dyno run to see the A/F ratios before doing more consistent WOT at a track day, as on the street it's only for a few moments.
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UTC quote
thanks!
deepfraught wrote:
Welcome Urzwoo,

General troubleshooting approach is to look at fuel and spark for combustion, and for EFI battery electricity for ECU, fuel pump etc.

The abrupt cut could be loss of ignition, by bad high tension leads or connection to spark plugs, or to coil/igniter at other end.

Loose or poor electrical connections at fuses and connectors could cause electrical glitch cutting ignition (edit: like kill switch said above)

Experience helps where you check first, but something such as a faulty throttle position sensor, and ultimately all diagnosis suggests swapping out the ECU. If you have a friend with the same bike, comparing suspect parts and swapping between test rides is a great economical diagnosis.

###
BubbaJon, I'm not sure what effect an imperfect plug chop has on the reading to a perfect one, e.g. how much of the deceleration and idle combustion affects the plugs before you kill the engine.

I've heard on bikes to do the perfect plug chop for any riding condition, e.g. WOT, pull the clutch and kill the engine at the same time. You don't want overrun combustion or idle off throttle combustion to taint the reading.

I imagine for ours you would just have to kill the ignition, hoping the revs drop and the clutch disengages.

After talking about going to advanced rider training and to the track, I thought I'd like to get a dyno run to see the A/F ratios before doing more consistent WOT at a track day, as on the street it's only for a few moments.
wow. sounds a bit complicated, all that.
now i just need to try and translate into german (i'm an english guy in germany!) and take it to my local workshop.

the "run switch" that BubbaJon mentioned...is that the motor kill switch?

thanks for all your help!
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BubbaJon wrote:
One of 'em damn near gave me a heart attack putting it in - it was acting like I'd stripped it but it finally tightened up. *whew*!!
Was the engine cold? Never take plugs out of a hot or even warm engine. I know Ford and GM both have SSM (Special Server Message) About not removing plugs on any vehicle with aluminum unless the motor is cold. It states to only remove plugs when the engines are cold, to prevent galling of the threads in the head.
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UTC quote
Re: thanks!
urzwoo wrote:
wow. sounds a bit complicated, all that.
now i just need to try and translate into german (i'm an english guy in germany!) and take it to my local workshop.

the "run switch" that BubbaJon mentioned...is that the motor kill switch?

thanks for all your help!
I wouldn't take that to the dealer, that was more targeted to your own diagnosis. The workshop manaul has the troubelshooting diagnosis that would follow similar paths.

The tip from BubbaJon about the kill switch is probably first place to check.
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Re: thanks!
deepfraught wrote:
urzwoo wrote:
wow. sounds a bit complicated, all that.
now i just need to try and translate into german (i'm an english guy in germany!) and take it to my local workshop.

the "run switch" that BubbaJon mentioned...is that the motor kill switch?

thanks for all your help!
I wouldn't take that to the dealer, that was more targeted to your own diagnosis. The workshop manaul has the troubelshooting diagnosis that would follow similar paths.

The tip from BubbaJon about the kill switch is probably first place to check.
i do actually have the manuals - i'll have a finger through them.
are a lot of jobs on the scooter ones that those not that mechanically minded can do, or is everything best left to the "experts"?

will certainly take a look at the kill switch!

regards from munich.
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StooterBoy wrote:
BubbaJon wrote:
One of 'em damn near gave me a heart attack putting it in - it was acting like I'd stripped it but it finally tightened up. *whew*!!
Was the engine cold? Never take plugs out of a hot or even warm engine. I know Ford and GM both have SSM (Special Server Message) About not removing plugs on any vehicle with aluminum unless the motor is cold. It states to only remove plugs when the engines are cold, to prevent galling of the threads in the head.
Yep - stone cold. I dunno what the deal was it would tighten up and feel like it was about to set and then it would free-fall. It would take a few more quarter turns and do it again. I *swear* it acted just like a stripped thread. Then it set for real. I would almost suspect cross-threaded but it wasn't that difficult to turn.
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UTC quote
Get a spark plug tap and run it in the hole.
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UTC quote
BubbaJon wrote:
Fuzzy wrote:
deepfraught wrote:
From the seat bypass thread, I was told the seat bypass sensor only applies during tilt lock.
So you could stand up while riding normally and it won't do anything... suggesting if it was faulty or not, it wouldn't do anything.
Currently I'm riding with it unplugged, and haven't wired in the bypass resistor yet.

Did Piaggio do anything else that might have solved the problem?
+ 1. On long rides I frequently stand up on the floor boards and never a problem with engine power. Also rev engine on the center stand, standing beside MP3 and tilt off.
+1 - it would cripple any bike to have a cutout if your butt comes off the seat. Logic should tell you the seat sensor is unlikely at speed.
I pulled the plugs yesterday. One of 'em damn near gave me a heart attack putting it in - it was acting like I'd stripped it but it finally tightened up. *whew*!! Anyway I gotta say these engines make no sense to me - they have an ECU that supposedly runs lean - so why are my plugs black? They were black on the first plugs too. I have the Iridium plugs and the insulator is white near the electrode but gets black deeper in and around the body where it's exposed in the combustion chamber. Weird. Anyway I haven't had the issue in a bit - I'm wondering if it's just the heat - perhaps it's the freeway running after I've been stuck in traffic a bit. I'll need to pay more attention what has occurred before the stumbling...
you could have a plug or both going bad. The richness was eliminated when I went to the k&n and it leaned out nicely but not too lean.
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Jon...jon...ride 'em hard and trade 'em....

LL75 ROFL emoticon
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Re: My 500 has started to "stumble"
BubbaJon wrote:
Weird - my 500 has started to sound like it's missing going down the road sometimes. Nothing out of the ordinary I'll just be tooling along at a steady speed and it starts feeling like it's cutting out for a bit then it runs smooth again. New Iridium plugs in my last service about 2500 miles ago. I doubt the air filter is clogged.
Any ideas what to look at?
Jon, the beers are for you
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Hey Bubbajon,
I called OAD yesterday and reported that mine is doing EXACTLY the same thing (without seeing this post first). Interesting considering ours are within a few months of the same age . I think, as OAD and I talked about, that it is prolly the throttle body. OAD and I just got thru giving my a real good run thru...changed oil, oil filter, checked plugs, cleaned air filter, and put on a new graphite bushing on the exhaust. I, like you, have not cleaned my throttle body yet and considering everything else that we went thru, it sounds like the culprit. Mine will shut on/off like it's cold when you first start it, which isn't so bad, but then going down the road it will occassionally stumble as you put it like it's not getting gas. Along with the throttle body, I'm also gonna put in some fuel injector cleaner which i was doing but have dropped off from...bad habit I know.
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2007 GTS
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Luthorhuss are you going to be able to come by this week and do the work over here?
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Maybe...If I do, I will bring my lil video camera. I will have to call you and find a good time between work/classes and all.
OP
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luthorhuss wrote:
Hey Bubbajon,
I called OAD yesterday and reported that mine is doing EXACTLY the same thing (without seeing this post first). Interesting considering ours are within a few months of the same age . I think, as OAD and I talked about, that it is prolly the throttle body. OAD and I just got thru giving my a real good run thru...changed oil, oil filter, checked plugs, cleaned air filter, and put on a new graphite bushing on the exhaust. I, like you, have not cleaned my throttle body yet and considering everything else that we went thru, it sounds like the culprit. Mine will shut on/off like it's cold when you first start it, which isn't so bad, but then going down the road it will occassionally stumble as you put it like it's not getting gas. Along with the throttle body, I'm also gonna put in some fuel injector cleaner which i was doing but have dropped off from...bad habit I know.
Thanks Shawn - I bet you're right and will get some cleaner and do that sometime this week. I'm praying I can get a rescheduled appointment and make the Maggie Valley run but... anyway - gotta be prepared in case!
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UTC quote
Cheeky Thomas had a great post with pictures a while back showing what needs cleaning.
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UTC quote
That throttle body cleaning sounds like a good move, but I'm wondering if you tried a little dry gas and if you got rid of the evaporator lump?
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YaYaDave wrote:
That throttle body cleaning sounds like a good move, but I'm wondering if you tried a little dry gas and if you got rid of the evaporator lump?
LOL - no - I'm leaving that in until my extended warranty is history - exactly the moment it's paid off! Then I can do what I damn well wanna.
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YaYaDave wrote:
That throttle body cleaning sounds like a good move, but I'm wondering if you tried a little dry gas and if you got rid of the evaporator lump?
dry gas is mostly ethanol and you get enough of that already at most gas stations. Ethanol abosrbs water.
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R.I.P. ----K.I.T.T.500, Agent Orange (400)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2673
Location: Muscle Shoals, AL 35661
 
Ossessionato
@luthorhuss avatar
R.I.P. ----K.I.T.T.500, Agent Orange (400)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2673
Location: Muscle Shoals, AL 35661
UTC quote
YaYaDave wrote:
That throttle body cleaning sounds like a good move, but I'm wondering if you tried a little dry gas and if you got rid of the evaporator lump?
I removed my evap cannister long ago.
UTC

Lurker
Fuoco 500ie
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
 
Lurker
Fuoco 500ie
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3
UTC quote
Having the same problem faced by BubbaJon.

Going to have my plugs, kill switch and battery connections checked later.
Hopefully it'll remedy the problem.

Any other suggestions bubba?
@stooterboy avatar
UTC

Banned
MP3 500
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4530
Location: Ashburn, Va
 
Banned
@stooterboy avatar
MP3 500
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4530
Location: Ashburn, Va
UTC quote
JohnnieWalked wrote:
Having the same problem faced by BubbaJon.

Going to have my plugs, kill switch and battery connections checked later.
Hopefully it'll remedy the problem.

Any other suggestions bubba?
If you are saying you are going to tell the dealer what to check, DON"T, you will waste money. You tell the dealer what to check and that is what they check and you get bill for time whether that fixes it or not.
Always just explain the problem to the dealer and let them do the testing, can save you lots of money. Then if they can't find the problem, suggest stuff "you have heard could be the issue" if they haven't checked those items.

We use to get people in the dealer all the time telling us what to check and then they get all pissed off when that didn't fix the problem. Then we did our standard diagnostic once we got permission, and found the problem for a 1/3 of the price it took to check everything they wanted checked.
So, explain problem, and let the dealer decide course of action first and if that doesn't work, then make suggestions.
UTC

Hooked
2009 MP3 400
Joined: UTC
Posts: 472
Location: Loveland, Colorado
 
Hooked
2009 MP3 400
Joined: UTC
Posts: 472
Location: Loveland, Colorado
UTC quote
+1 ScooterBoy
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