Modern Vespa

Sometimes life seems to throw stuff at you in a seemingly determined way to keep you from achieving your goals, this being a classic example of the principle. After building an LX for my daughter's birthday ( LX50 2T detail restoration - from "Mod" to Modern ) I then embarked on a self indulgent journey to restore & modify a 125GT for myself ( GrantourismOrange - 125GT to GT-S recreation ). No problem so far.

...until I come home after work last week and said daughter complains that her top box hinges have all broken but proudly announces that she managed to find the allen keys in my garage and has put the box on my workbench to fix. Thanks - so much for me working on the GT this week.

A quick visual inspection showed that although the damage was limited to the top of the box she had managed to snap off one hinge block completely and split the other three, hence completely seperating the top from the bottom. Because of the design of the lid there was no way that I could repair the broken hinge blocks so my only options were to either buy & paint a new lid or make a replacement hinge. In the end I decided to make new hinges, mainly because it was a challenge but also because we had used all the holographic paint in the course of the build and another 1/4 litre tin would cost the best part of £500. Now there's incentive!

Im sure that there are many ways to do this, but I decided to mill new hinges out of billet aluminum, which I admit is a bit beyond the average DIYer but nevertheless I thought it may encourage someone else to have a go at a similar repair themselves with more conventional techniques or equipment. This is how I did it:


First job was to cut off the broken hinge blocks with a Dremel & dress up the edge with a file

The material for the hinges was 2" x 3/8" aluminium bar. First job is to square the end of the bar.

After drilling the 3.5mm diameter through holes, I then rebated the lower half so that the boss of the hinge would overlap the edge of the lid.

Milling the gap between the two hinge blocks.

Had to file slots into the lip of the bottom section to clear the hinges. I tried to think of a better way to make the hinge to avoid this but found that this was the only way to have a hidden repair.

I dummy assembled the hinges onto the bottom, dropped on the lid and then free-hand drilled screw holes through the back of the lid & spot drilled the hinges. I removed the hinges & tapped them out M4.

This is how the hinges fitted on the inside of the top section. I had to taper mill the rebates to match the profile of the lip & glued them into place with high strength epoxy.

Temporary pan head screws held the hinges in place whilst the epoxy set.

Final job was to countersink the lid, cut the posi screws to length & fit them one at a time. I also reduced the knurling at the end of the hinge pins to make them an easier fit in the non-compliant aluminium. Job done.

Wow, great repair job! I had wondered what had happened to the other rebuild this week

that takes some serious going!! did she jump on it or something?!

im missing the pin from the right hand hinge on my topbox, so im just careful when i open it, but how can you break it when you have 2 perfectly fine hinges? some just dont know their own strength good repair mate!

I don't know how she did it Spud, furthermore she's not letting on either! I've a sneaky feeling it has something to do with overstuffing the box with shopping/coats/boots/w.h.y. and she forced the lid down or she got something stuck under the back lip and used the leverage of the lid to snap the hinges. Whatever though, it ain't broke no more!

The hinge pin for the lid is exactly 3.5mm diameter x 50mm long, if you are missing one & can't find s suitable bit of steel, at a pinch you could use the top of a 3.5mm drill bit or find some 1/8" rod (3.2mm) and glue it in. Might also be an idea to measure the diameter of round nails at the hardware store, if you find something suitable ideally pick a galvanised one or add a little grease to stop it corroding.

Hope this helps.

Brilliant! My hinges snapped off also, and I am trying to figure out how to repair. I don't have the equipment (nor the expertise) to do it as elegantly as you did, alas! But perhaps I can find a pre-made hinge somewhere which will fit.

As far as the cause -- I notice that when the box is in the fully-opened position, it does stress the hinges. Especially if you slam it open, or try and push it (accidentally) beyond where it naturally stops in the fully-open position. Plus my box is a few years old, perhaps the plastic has just fatigued over the years of opening and closing...

Anyway, nice job. You have inspired me to try and do a decent fix!

-Dan

Dan,

The lug on the bottom section is just under 20mm wide, so if you search though the conventional metal flap hinges at your local hardware store you may find one with a 3/4" tab. You can then knock the pin through & cut a section 2" long with the gap in the middle & hence do a similar repair without the machinery.

Clever idea. Thanks, I'll give it a try!

-Dan

Hi, my name is Salvatore and live in New York, I have the same problem, could you please build and sale to me the same hinges?

I just got a standard metal hinge at the local hardware store, and was able to use that to replace it, following the instructions above. Cost like $2.00. That was a few years ago and the hinge is still holding!.

-Dan

New member here. Glad to meet you all.

The hinges on my 2008 LX 150 top case broke similarly. Unfortunately, I don't have the mechanical skills to do a repair like yours. I found the top case to a PX 150 on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110798558158?item=110798558158&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

Here's my stock case with the busted hinges.


Bottom view of the same case


Here's the rack on my LX 150


Here's a rack from a PX 150


I realize that the racks are different, but does anyone know if the case itself will fit the rack on an LX 150?

Thanks in advance for your help.