Modern Vespa

Aug 2013 UPDATE: All MP3 footpeg brackets are gone; there probably will not be any more.
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Are you feeling cramped on your MP3? I am offering the "Ultimate Footpeg Project" brackets, model UFP/XT, which put your feet lower, wider, and further forward than the stock Piaggio MP3 floorboard. This includes shipping, rubber bumper to protect your scooter's bodywork, and the longer screws needed. These are plug-n-play for a Fuoco 500 or MP3/500, or an MP3/250-300-400 that has had a diamondplate floorboard installed. Simply remove the two front screws from the floorboard, place the bracket over the floorboard, and use the included longer screws to reattach. They will also fit an unmodified /250-300-400 with a minor alteration described below, which will add a couple of minutes to installation. MP3/LT (European) owners may need to pull up the bottom of the rubber boot underneath the brake pedal, but apparently that's a no-brainer.

These brackets are solid Type 304 Stainless Steel, bead-blasted to a non-slip satin finish, and pre-drilled to mate with a footpeg accepting a 3/8" diameter screw. Pegs are not included for liability reasons; in normal use any reasonably sized pegs should not contact ground in a turn, but it is your responsibility to ensure that your pegs are in the upright position whenever performing aggressive manuvers. The MP3 can theoretically be pushed to extreme banks at high speed, and such manuvers should NOT be attempted with these brackets attached, with or without pegs. There are a huge variety of pegs available ranging from under $10 to over $100 a pair; see FAQ #4 below.

The footpegs may be mounted at three different distances, which should be suitable for anyone from 5'4" (or less - see my post Coming Up Short below) to 6'4" or more. The brackets include a pre-installed integral rubber bumper to protect your scooter's bodywork.

You can find a short video on the UFP/XT here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC8hhx6eNr4

INDEX
FAQ 1: Ordering Information
FAQ 2: Installation Important!
FAQ 3: Disclaimers Extremely Important!
FAQ 4: Footpegs Really Important!
FAQ 5: Acknowledgements
FAQ 6: Member Feedback
FAQ 7: Revision History

KEYWORDS

Get footpegs on your Piaggio MP3 and cruise in comfort! MP3, MP3/LT, Piaggio, Fuoco, /250, /300, /400, /500, footpeg, footpegs, foot peg, foot pegs, bracket, brackets, floorboard, floorboards

I'll edit the first post to reflect the latest state-of-the-art, and I'll edit this second post with updates and status. It is CRITICAL that you read FAQs 2 through 4 in their entirety, otherwise you will likely be disappointed, and quite possibly manage to injure or kill yourself.
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Prices:
SOLD OUT in the U.S.
SOLD OUT Canada, E.U., EFTA
SOLD OUT Australia, Singapore, New Zealand

Includes screws, bumpers, and shipping; just add 3/8" thread folding footpegs and everything else is included. Everything starts by sending me a PM after you've read the FAQs.

U.S. orders: Check or money order in U.S. dollars from a U.S. institution only; Paypal is not available for anyone in the U.S. under any circumstances. PM me with your name and I'll respond via ModernVespa PM with check mailing info. Note that UFPs are offered ONLY to active Modern Vespa members, so all communications must be through the ModernVespa forum only; no e-mail addresses, web sites, or phone numbers will be provided or responded to!

Send checks in an ordinary envelope so they don't accidentally get tossed as junk mail! No electronic payments or transfers of any kind are accepted from within the U.S.; if you don't have a check that you are personally signing in ink, go to the Post Office and buy a money order. Also, don't send checks by any "fancy" means - checks will only be accepted delivered with a stamped envelope via U.S. Postal Service. If you send me something that requires a signature, it'll just get returned to you. I've had too many headaches with fancy payments.

Outside the U.S.: PM me regarding Paypal. If you can get me a U.S. check in U.S. dollars, I'll knock $5 off the price.

I also offer quantity discounts, and discounts if you can pick up the UFPs in person in northern New Jersey.

RECENT ORDERS

Name/Postal Code >>> USPS Tracking Number or Status

>>>No orders outstanding, all delivered<<<

If your order lists a tracking number, copy the tracking number to your clipboard, goto www.usps.gov, paste the tracking number into the track & confirm field, and click "go."

Basically, you remove two screws from your floorboard, place the bracket over the floorboard, and reinsert screws. It really is that easy. However, members with rubber floorboards have to create a hole for the screw to pass through. I provide special, longer screws; use only those screws, or M6 screws that are rated for at least 20,000 PSI...the screws I provide are rated >80,000 PSI, and you won't find them at your local Home Depot or Wickes!

1. You must mount your pegs with the hinge parallel to the bracket "ear" to which the peg attaches. This maximizes the probability of the peg properly folding up if you hit something. Some of the fancier pegs actually allow you to set the hinge angle and the footpeg angle independently to maximize both safety and comfort (see FAQ #4 below).

2. The MP3 makes extensive use of "speedclips" and (in this case) "speednuts." If when mounting the brackets you find that you have to force the screws, STOP - you are misthreading and you will probably cause the speednut to dislodge. Back it out and try again. Screws should thread in EASILY with an allen wrench under minimal finger force. If you are threading through a rubber floormat, it is critical that you have cleanly punched a sufficiently large hole that does not interfere with screw threading, because otherwise you may not realize you are crossthreading and turn a five minute job into four hours!

3. Because the front screw is close to the rubber bumper, thread in the front screw first; it's easy to then pivot the rear screw slot into position. When you mount the brackets, they will not exactly match the floorboard as they are at a slightly wider angle. Thread in the screws until they are almost all the way in. Now, push the bracket forward as far as it will go (hence the slots) and tighten the screws down. The brackets will now conform perfectly to the curve in the floorboard. If when you're done you see a gap between the bracket and the floorboard, or space at the back of a slot, you didn't push the bracket forward while tightening - loosen the screws and repeat.

4. To mount to an unmodified MP3/250, /300, or /400, pull up the rubber floormats and locate the two front screw holes. Punch two small holes in the rubber mat directly above the holes to run the screws through. A member suggests placing Phillips-head screwdriver bits in the hole recesses, point facing up (or, another member suggests, insert the screws into the holes but leave them poking up a few millimeters), and dust the points with chalk. When the floormat is laid back down, a chalk mark will indicate exactly where to punch the holes. Pretty clever, those MV forum members...and another MV member reports that HarborFreight sells an entire set of punching tools (to make the holes) for less than $6. Wow!

The UFPs are virtually maintenance-free. You should check the tightness of the screws a few times for the first month (once the speednuts settle they will remain rock-solid), and if your footpegs are not stainless, remove them once a year and clean out any rust between the pegs and the brackets. Also, you may want to check out the screws under the floorboard as described by member BubbaJon at UFP operational note and caution.

Avoid scratching the brackets with anything metal, especially hardened or stainless steel, because while the brackets are very tough, the satin finish can be marred by something as hard or harder.

Under normal wear-n-tear, the UFPs will maintain their shape indefinitely. But as a few users have found, if you spill your trike or hit something while driving, it is possible to bend them. This behavior is by design - 304 stainless resists pressure up to a point and then yeilds fluidly, freezing into a new position when the pressure is released. While this behavior is what makes it so desirable to machine shops (and frankly may have saved more than one owner's MP3 in a spill), it's not so easy to bend it back without an industrial brake press. Nonetheless, it can be done; I hope that nobody here dumps their scooter but if you do and you bend a UFP, check out StickyFrog's excellent illustrated tutorial at Damage control.

These brackets are sold AS IS without warranty.

These brackets will fit a Gilera Fuoco, Piaggio MP3/500, and a /250, /300, or /400 (including the "LT" model) that has had the diamondplate flooring for the /500 installed. Mounting to an unmodified stock /250, /300, or /400 will require a slight but cosmetically destructive modification (punching two small holes in the rubber floorboard for the screws to fit through), and you're on your own in that regard. It probably will not fit a Piaggio Yourban.

These brackets are sold WITHOUT footpegs. They will accomodate any peg that accepts a 3/8" screw; the screw should be self-locking or use an appropriate lock washer. The use of other pegs cannot be anticipated, but you should take caution to assure that the mounting hardware used will not contact and damage body panels.

Unusually long footpegs, unusually shaped footpegs, non-folding pegs, and riding under unusually aggressive conditions of turn, speed, and terrain may result in footpegs and brackets contacting ground, resulting in death or injury. It is your responsiblity to ensure that footpegs are raised or stowed when manuvers compromise ground clearance; this is particularly true if you have made modifications to your MP3 (including, but not limited to, removing the centerstand or installing larger tires) that increase maximum potential lean angle. Brackets should be removed completely before attempting maximum performance manuvers.

These brackets are intended to support the rider's feet, not their entire weight. Do not attempt to stand on them, as doing so will likely cause structural failure of the brackets, floorboard, or mounting screws, resulting in loss of control and death or injury. Do not use them to push yourself back or adjust yourself in the saddle. When approaching large obstacles, always move your feet back to the floorboards until the obstacle has been passed. Excessive loading of the brackets could cause immediate or gradual bending of the brackets or damage to the mounting screws or floorboard frame.

The UFP/XT uses a rubber bumper to transfer lateral loads to the scooter. Do not remove, relocate, modify, or bypass the bumper.

These brackets and their design are claimed as protected intellectual property. All rights reserved. No reverse engineering or reproduction is permitted without express written permission.

I'll use this post to summarize members' experiences with various footpegs. Remember, for liability reasons I do not and will not make specific recommendations but I will try to facilitate the discussion. There are two things to bear in mind: first, you don't want pegs that will hit the ground in a turn unexpectedly (and if they do, you'll want them to fold up automatically - set the peg's hinge to fold parallel to the "peg ear" and read the excellent observations on this at Peg scraping!), and second, the UFP is just a means to an end: to put pegs on your scooter. It's the pegs you will need to be comfortable with, so spend some time researching what will fit your expectations best. This is particularly important if you are outside the United States: make sure you can get a set of pegs that fit both your expectations and the UFPs BEFORE you order brackets!

A question I get asked a lot is some version of "don't all pegs flip up when they hit the ground?" The answer is NO - certainly the main driver pegs on a cruiser are designed to do so, and usually have an integral "feeler" in the bottom to alert the driver that he's getting close. But most add-on pegs are intended to be used on "highway bars" way up high where they'd never touch the ground unless the bike actually flipped over. This is why my designs are so conservative; with the Dixie pegs on a /500, you would never contact the ground in any "normal" maneuver, and with the pegs folded they would never touch the ground, period. But that assumes you are on flat, level ground and even then, if you've removed the centerstand or installed a larger tire or anything else that changes your lean angle and ground clearance, contact is possible...how can I possibly recommend a peg I've never even seen, much less done an analysis of? PRESUME your peg is capable of hitting the ground, and apply caution accordingly!

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Previously, I used the Dixie 3518-9, available from RustyRiders (their part number fp-mc-5c). They are cheap and comfortable flat pegs, but they do not easily fold and that should be an important consideration if you drive aggressively. Several UFP owners on this forum are using them.

The nicest pegs on the market, bar none, are made by Kuryakin. These pegs fit perfectly on cruisers and sports bikes that have standardized ("ISO") clevis mounts, but won't fit directly on a UFP. MV member Turbojav has done a great job of documenting how you can fit these pegs onto a UFP in an older UFP thread and listed the additional hardware and links. They are VERY pricey, however. Another member found a set of Kuryakin cruiser extension pegs that don't need an adapter on Amazon for $65 but I've been subsequently unable to find a set already built for 3/8" for less than $129.

Another member prefers pegs from jpcycles.com (Part # 5300363), but it was reported that they needed some stiffening using an aftermarket washer - a second member with the same pegs could not get the washers to fit BUT that member reported that when the peg contacted ground in an extreme maneuver, the peg properly flipped up and avoided a disaster. Another member locally sourced BikeMaster 17-1210 flat pegs, and someone else got "Drag Specialties Universal Highway Pegs" at a local store. All of these pegs are very similar, and required a replacement bolt because the one included is too long and only partly threaded. Note that many of these "universal" pegs are actually intended to mount to a cruiser motorcycle's "highway bar" via a strap-on clamp. With the UFP brackets, you'll throw away that clamp and just use the bolt. In some cases, that bolt will be too long and you'll have to buy a shorter, fully threaded screw of the same thread.

If you're into black, a member with custom blacked-out UFPs found this website selling a gorgeous powder-coated set accepting 3/8" screws: http://www.baddogsales.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=51. I should add that another member recently took a direct hit from a car into this peg and apparently it survived unscathed.

A member in Germany found a very nice-looking "bullet" set at http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230457288628#ht_1241wt_895. Apparently you can also source these in the U.S.: http://www.jcwhitney.com/fold-up-round-o-ring-foot-pegs/p2002578.jcwx?filterid=c14745j3

Speaking of outside the U.S., our fearless U.K. moderator got these http://www.alpha-custom-bikes.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=100_23&products_id=283&osCsid=q3s4dvfbcvchghts44blgdm414. They appear quite similar to the Dixies and take a similar 3/8"-NF screw (which you will need to find a shorter, fully thread version of).

I currently use JC Whitney's cool-looking "elliptical" set that might represent the best of both round and flat pegs: http://www.jcwhitney.com/custom-mount-elliptical-rail-foot-pegs/p2002576.jcwx. Flat pegs have an advantage in that they contact more of your foot. Round pegs have an advantage that no matter how you set your feet, the peg is always tangential to the sole of your shoe. That can be important for riders who sometimes put their whole foot on the peg, and sometimes ride with just their toe on the peg and their heel on the floorboard. A very nice feature is that the angle of the peg is set by a hidden screw in the peg end, which means you can adjust the angle of the whole assembly to one angle (e.g. to facilitate the peg "popping up" if it touches the ground) and the angle of the peg itself to another angle (to best match your foot). However, I must point out that the extremely large size of these pegs, while making for a very comfortable ride, also increases the likelihood of ground contact, and there is nothing to force them to stay upright. This should be a consideration if you do a lot of aggressive-banking turns and especially if you "filter" through traffic (illegal in many areas) as these pegs may wind up scrapping the sides of cars you are trying to squeeze between. [EDIT: some members report that in "real life," if the handlebars fit between cars then so will the pegs]

Member mjm50cal ordered these http://www.rivcoproducts.com/products/product.php?productid=193&cat=221&page=1. He ordered them as part of his pillon passenger peg experiments, but they're threaded 3/8" thread and should fit a UFP as well.

The UFPs take a 3/8" peg screw (they'll also accept a 10mm but it's a tight squeeze, usually requiring a thread tapping tool). You should ensure you're getting a peg that takes that size screw, or at least that you can return the peg if it doesn't fit. There are also "externally threaded shaft" pegs that take a nut instead of a bolt, but they're complicated because you may have to saw off part of the threaded shaft to keep it from banging into your scooter's bodywork.

I'm not sure if mounting an entire floorboard to a UFP is the craziest idea I've ever heard of or the most brilliant, but ezcreation's decision to mount these http://www.rivcoproducts.com/products/product.php?productid=707&js=y on his scooter surely defines "think differently."

5/29/2013 EDIT: Member McKee discovered that the stock pegs from an Aprilla Scarabeo fit the UFPs as-is.

Offhand I'd suggest sticking with pegs with an internally threaded hole that accepts a regular 3/8" screw. The UFPs are not aluminum or soft steel, they are 304 stainless...made to last a lifetime but not so easy to modify with hand tools sitting around your garage!

NOTE: The below list includes ONLY 3/8" threaded "plug-n-play" pegs. Several members have had good luck with larger thread pegs as well, but I have not included them here since the success of such pegs depends upon your skill level and machine tool availability. Posts and photos by some members on their experience with other pegs are scattered throughout the MP3 forum (including, but definitely not limited to, this thread) and you are on your own if you go that route.

Note that some of the below pictures are of the older UFP/LT, but the footpeg mounting is the same.

Do you own a set of UFPs with a footpeg not listed? Do you like the pegs? If so, take a picture and post/PM me so I can add it to the list.

I conceived, designed, and produced the UFP bracket, but in a larger sense it was a joint effort involving many contributors on Modern Vespa. I am especially indebted to members UFO and RamblerDan for their pioneering work on MP3 footpegs; G03, Maynard Schweigert, RJL, Glow Guy, Bravo Two Four, BubbaJon, Fuzzy, DaveS, G03 (again), YaYaDave, MotoscootNL, and Javayama7 for their outstanding experimentations and feedback, much of which is incorporated into the current design; and MySkyMizer, StickyFrog, and above all JimC for their invaluable encouragement.

Unsolicited feedback from Modern Vespa members:

...A perfect solution to a nasty problem. Very simple to install and look like they will last forever.
...Kudos to rjeffb for the bracket design. Simple, one piece, rust proof, and no surgery on the bike required.
...Thanks for the great job Jeff.
...It is an outstanding benefit being able to extend the legs. The brackets worked great!
...Overall impression is that this is the simplest way to get footpegs on your MP3.
...You are going to like what the UFPs bring to your ride. kudos again to Jeff for this product!
...Well made, easy installation and fair price for what you get.
...Riding comfort was very much improved by getting my feet a little further forward and down. Thank you very much, Jeff.
...When I put my feet on the rugs I don't know how I managed so long without the pegs.
...Overall I really like them a lot and highly recommend them.
...Brackets arrived today - beautifully made, thanks Jeff.
...Fantastic, how on earth did I manage without them before. Thanks for all the hard work Jeff, bloody brilliant.
...Just installed my brackets and pegs. I absolutely love them.
...Excellent investment - one of those things you don't know you need until you've tried it.
...Kudos to Jeff and his super well-engineered invention. For the first 15 minutes things felt odd, but by the end of the day I couldn't remember how I lived without them.
...OMG, how did I live without those pegs?? Sooooo much more comfortable!! Thankyouthankyouthankyou, Jeff!!
...Quite simply I was blown away by the quality.
...All I can say is, FANTASTIC!
...The UFP/XT brackets is without a doubt the best Mod I added to my MP3.
...Just got the UFP's and I'm blown away!! The quality is amazing and hard to fathom from just reading about them and seeing pictures.
...Your footpeg appliances have dramatically improved my ride. They are well designed, appealing and moderately priced.
...What would I ever have done without rjeffb and his amazing UFP's?

UFP concept: a conceptualized bracket that had two peg ears, one in front of the floorboard and one directly beneath. This way the driver could mount pegs cruiser-style or directly underneath to allow standing up on the pegs. Engineering analysis of what's under the MP3 floorboard revealed a U-channel that is very strong with regard to compressive forces, but weak with regard to torque (twisting) forces. Standing up on pegs would have twisted the U-channel and caused both the peg and the entire floorboard to eventually fail. Not good.

UFP "zero": an aluminum prototype to test out the proof-of-concept, with a single peg mounting point forward of the floorboard. Worked, but lasted about two weeks before being bent into a pretzel. A major problem was the difficulty of mounting: for the screw holes to line up with those in the floorboard, the radius in the middle had to exactly match the floorboard diamondplate. No just close, mind you, but exact, and that was not practical. In response, the UFP/1 featured slots instead of holes, which allowed the user to thread the screws most of the way in, push the UFP into final position, and tighten the rest of the way down. Perfect fit every time.

UFP/1: a 1/8" thick stainless steel production version of the prototype, mounting a single peg about an inch beyond the floorboard riser. The steel was selected to deliberately "flex" under load and so avoid putting excess stress on the floorboard screws. A small dihedral (obtuse angle) was built into the peg ear to facilitate this flex; the dihedral had the unexpected but salutory side effect of helping to keep the rider's foot on the peg. Because the peg was mounted up high, the peg had to be attached with a special low-profile screw in order to keep the mounting hardware from banging into the scooter body panel. Worked very well, but provided somewhat limited relief for average and tall riders, which in turn limited sales and not many were sold (or produced).

UFP/3: the UFP/1 with a longer peg ear and three different mounting points. The UFP/3 introduced a new challenge: the possibility that a peg or even the bracket itself could contact the ground in steep turns (a geometric analysis of this issue is posted in an old thread on this forum). This wound up limiting how far out the UFP can practically extend. When mounting a peg in the second and especially third hole, the extra lever distance greatly increased "flex," requiring more dihedral. Also, because I had reason to believe MP3/400 floorboards were different, I extended the ears out from the UFP/1, which increased flex even more (as it turned out, the /400 floorboard is if anything narrower than the /500, not wider). The possibility of the peg mounting hardware contacting the bodywork when riding over a big pothole led first a member, and then me, to experiment with rubber bumpers to protect the bodywork. At this point the emphasis was not to prevent flex (which continued to be an important design intent) but merely to prevent damage from over-flexing. The UFP/3 wound up being the first commercially successful UFP version; incredibly, there continues to be something of a "gray market" in used UFP/3s!

UFP/LT: the same general dimensions as the UFP/3, but with several important changes. First, the steel was increased to 0.20" thick, essentially eliminating flex. This was requested by several members, but now all of the force sustained would be transmitted directly to the floorboard screws, which an analysis showed had a high probability of failure. The second change was to incorporate rubber bumpers as an integral part of the design intent; the bumpers no longer serve as a method of last resort to prevent bodywork damage, but as part of the everyday mechanics, offloading excess stress from the floorboard screws. The overall result of the bumpers, plus the thicker steel, plus bringing in the peg offset back to the original UFP/1 dimension was that the UFP/LT was far stronger than any of its predecessors. Finally, a kindly German MV member helped me determine the changes required to accomodate the foot brake pedal of European MP3 "LT" models. The UFP/LT had a slightly narrower inboard edge to provide clearance for the brake pedal link, making it the first UFP that would work on any Piaggio MP3 model - and a runaway success.

UFP/XT: the same dimensions as the UFP/LT, but with a new peg position pushed out further, horizontal to what had been the lowest position on the /LT. This allows very tall riders to really "stretch out" without compromising ground clearance. It also incorporates a laser-etched logo as suggested by an MV member.

Does anyone have a listing for the diamond plate floor panels. I understand the 500 front will work on the 250/400 non LT right?

Several people have done this. The original thread is here: MP3 400 floor upgrade to diamond plate from 500. A more recent post, which includes links, is here: Diamond plate floorboards on the 400

anybody use automatic popup foot pegs with these braces? Advantages or disadvantages???

Well, here's hoping I didn't do something sacrilegious??

Got the UFPs yesterday just before noon and ran them, along with the diamond plate foot rests and screws, up to Jim at American Precision Powder Coat. As luck would have it he was doing a job that used the same color I wanted and told me they'd be ready tomorrow!! Couldn't believe it! So I go pick up my goodies today, bring them home, take some pictures, and install them. Delivery, powder coated, installed in just over 24 hours!! Even a blind squirrel...eh?

They were done in flat black with a satin finish. I hope the pictures do them justice, as the sun was quite low, but they really are something in person. My only regret is losing Jeff's beautiful logo!! I have plans for that however.....

looks great

OMG looks ...... she looks..... .....looks Marvelous!! Can I buy MySky back? Nah, she's much better off with you, and you dress her so nicely! Yes, I agree, do find a way to put Jeff's sig back on brackets, it will be the finishing touch to that great satin black finish you had put on them. You certainly got them back fast from the shop. How long did it take for you to put them on? Love the choice of Footpegs, they look grippy...that's a plus!
All kidding aside, Everything, and I mean ALL The Changes you have made are Beyond any vision I would have had for her, not to mention my lack of skills, etc. Great Job Steve How about a before and after pic?

This is how I fitted the brackets to my 400 with rubber mats:
I wanted the bracket not to show over the mats or a floor plate. I did think of buying and cutting some alum. checkerplate to replace the rubber mats but decided to try to retain the mats first.

I bought some rubber matting/belting from Clarke Rubber about the same thickness as the brackets. I then cut out pieces to fit around the brackets and tapered them off with a grinder so that there was not a step down to the footrest plastic. I secured them with double sided tape.

I then fitted the brackets using flat washers underneath the brackets so that the bracket would clear the lip on the edge of the footrest and sit firmly when screwed down. The flat washers only went under the top screw, the plate sits flat on the plastic along the bottom.

I then removed the "nipples" under the mats that no longer had a hole to fit in and secured the mat into place using an additional 2 teck-screws that screwed into the tupperware under the mat. I also used double sided tape under the rubber mats. I hollowed out the underside of the floor mats where the screw head holding down the bracket, protruded.

I find the brackets and footpegs great - more comfortable, sit back into the seat a whole lot better, and somehow feel a lot more balanced, especilly on slow corners. I seem to be able to lean more and now slow corners are a lot better. My black pegs look great and I am very happy with the overall result. My floor mats are now a little higher at the front edge but sit fairly flat and hide the top edge of the bracket.

Sateep - that is gorgeous beyond description. Poetry in motion. I presume that you will also post at least a long-view over in the "what the hell did I do to Sky's scooter?" thread, as well as the "post a picture of your scooter" thread.

John - I do have a concern here, and I want to address for future users why you went through the trouble of mounting rubber underneath (John and I have discussed this at some length in the past).

Simply eliminating the rubber floorboard does not actually lower the UFP, because there is a plastic extrusion that runs outboard of the body (that normally creates the land into which the rubber or, in the case of a /500, aluminum floorboards fit). Instead, the inboard edge of the UFP will be a little lower, sitting directly in this valley, while the outboard edge will be higher, stuck up on that extrusion. This would change the angle at which the peg ears sit and keep the bumpers from mushing into the body panel, which in turn would mean all bumps are transmitted directly to the floorboard screws. In addition, the bracket would only be supported at either side; the middle of the bracket would be just hanging in midair. Finally, the screw heads would be meeting the bracket top at a slight angle. While that angle would be quite small, it would make a big difference - in a "normal" setup, those screw heads can be subjected to hundreds of pounds of force; without the bumpers operating properly, they can be subjected to a thousand pounds of claw-hammer force going over a big bump. From a mechanical viewpoint, what John has done is to re-create enough of the original floorboard under the brackets so all of these potential problems don't arise, while winding up with the asthetics he wanted (I personally think the brackets look cool on top of the floorboards, and certainly they're a whole lot easier to install that way - but to each his own!).

It has been suggested by some members to remove that extrusion (cutting, grinding) so the UFP would sit flat against the uncovered floorboard. That is more likely to work, but it still has a potential issue: because the scooter body panel under the floorboard curves away to the centerline of the bike, by lowering the bracket you have changed the gap where the bumpers meet the body panel. It's not by much and so it might work, but in any event the bumpers need to be "mushed" into the body panel 1/8" to 1/4" (3mm to 6mm). There is also the issue that by lowering the bracket you have reduced the ground clearance for your pegs, but I admit that's so small a drop as to probably not matter.

I *love" the look of the pegs chosen by both of you, by the way - were you two talking or is it a pure coincidence that you both chose the same peg? (That looks like the peg originally used by Zinfan, correct?) They look both comfortable and very well-made! Looking forward to hearing about how they work in action! Especially since both of you are using the new "cruising" position, which is too far out for me (5'9", 30" inseam) to comfortably try.

BTW in the pictures it looks like there is an allen keyhole in the tip of the pegs. If so, that means you could loosen the screw there and adjust the angle of the pegs to match your feet while still having the hinge set to fold up parallel to the peg (which I note both of you correctly did).

Just to address the issues raised re my installation:
* The pegs can be removed and/or adjusted on their "axle" by loosening the Allen key at the end of it as suggested.
* I had them (pegs) shipped from the USA after getting details from a member - the same who had an earlier post & pic. I could not find where to buy them locally.
* The rubber bits surround the bracket only and do not go under it at all. Its only purpose is to raise the surrounding area so that the mat sits reasonably flat.
*The lower section of the bracket sits firmly on the plastic and because of the angle of the body-work, does not foul the lip on the edge. I believe the angle of the bracket extension and peg is as it was intended.
*The rubber bumper sits exactly where it should.
*Washers totalling about 3 mm fit under to top screw only which makes everything tight and firm.
*The large flat washers mean that the bracket is properly seated and it cannot move or flex.
* It is the fact that where the bracket crosses over the lip on the edge, that section angles up and there is enough 'slot' in the screw holes to allow the whole bracket then to slide forward enough to sit where it should, but without pressure. The large flat washers under to top screw keep the whole thing flat and tight and at the right angle.
* It would be the case that the bracket now sits 2 or 3 mm (less than 1/8th") lower than if it was on top of the mat or metal floor, but the rubber buffer still sits firmly against the curved body work. Being a little closer to the ground or the wheel is not an issue.
* I am only 5'10" and find the forward position comfortable without undue stretching, but perhaps leg lengh is more important than overal height.

It is firm and does not flex or move and from my point of view I do not have any concerns.

I don't have the UFPs yet; but I think I will be getting a set and I do like the looks of those pegs. Do you mind sharing where you got them?

>I think I will be getting a set

About time!

>Do you mind sharing where you got them?

Take a look at FAQ4 above for a link, I'm pretty sure they're the same ones. I just verified that the link still works.

BTW I note that in the picture at that link they show that the screws that come with them a) are themselves black - a nice touch, and b) are fully threaded - a very nice touch indeed since that means you don't have to track down fully-threaded (and probably not black) replacements.

Well as my teachers told my parents; I'm a little slow. Thanks I would swear I had tried the link and it hadn't worked for me; but sometimes my connection is slow; like me; or non-existent.

My pegs came from:

http://www.baddogsales.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=51

There is also a 'silver' version made and is a little cheaper.
Courtesy of member Zinfan

As of today, better price here because the shipping is far lower:

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?Category_ID=54&manufacturer_ID=11&product_ID=36784&sblid_name=Rivco_Black_Powder_Coated_Anti_Vibration_Pegs&model_id=0 Shipping at Maddog is outrageous!

EDIT: And here's one that apparently has free shipping, making them considerably cheaper then any of the above:

http://www.fasteddysports.com/?page_id=3&product_id=308

Well on your way to having a product brochure!

Pure coincidence, although great minds....
I do believe it was Zinfan that used them. I first became aware of them through the "Foot pegs on your MP3? Click here" link in your tag line. Now FAQ number 4 in your "2011 MP3 Foot Brackets" thread. The link Johndunoon posted above is the same place I acquired mine from. I see they are on sale now through Friday April 1st for $48.50 before shipping. I paid $61 total in late January. The Fast Eddy link you posted has them for $54.95 shipping included.

I like the unified appearance of the black foot rests, brackets, and pegs. Just sitting static on the bike I feel more stretched out and less confined. I'm certainly looking forward to giving you a ride report one warmer/dryer day!

Can somone please explain why, that when using the pegs, I ride far more aggressivly and confidently?

Not sure if that is good or bad!

I also love he look of black bracket & pegs and have not completlety given that idea away - especcially on a back scoot.

Beleive it is time to get a plastic logo made up. Something we could use double stick tape to stick on. I would support the cause and pay for mine, prices are usually $3-4 range for custom made ones. Perhaps a "USA" in the midlle, with wrap around lettering like a coin. Custom Made by .

What G03 said!!!

FYI,

If you're thinking of replacing the rubber foot rests of the rider with diamond plate foot rests, here's a link to the parts required:
http://www.athensscooterco.com/eshopprod_cat_4797-48548-48426_product_603055.209_CENTRAL_COVER.htm

1 ea #31 L rug
1 ea #32 R rug
6 ea #33 Hexagon Socket Button Head Screw
2 ea #34 Front fix spacer
4 ea #35 Central and rear fix spacer

If a person was going to install the UFP's they would only need 2 ea of the #33 screws above (for the rear screws). Jeff provides the longer ones for the central/front positions. You could get the 6 and just keep the other 4 on hand in case you needed to remove the UFP's at a later date.

For those wanting to do the passenger foot rests as well see this link: MP3 500 Black Foot Rests.

Yes......."custom made by _____________" It's getting busy in here

Holy Shish-ka-bob! We're Banner Stars!

About 18 months ago, I lost a UFP sale to a woman who was not very tall - about 5'2" as I recall. The issue was she wanted to put her feet out wide and lower, but not really forward. What she really wanted was a long-discontinued UFP/1. She could also have used the top hole of a UFP/3, but those had sold out.

In theory, she could have mounted a peg in the top hole of a UFP/LT, but the /LT was not designed to flex at all - hence the bumper. Putting the pegs at the top hole means less force generated, but having no bumper means more of that force is transmitted to the screws. I don't know which one wins out so I had to recommend against her buying the brackets.

About the same time, I struck up a conversation with a UFP/3 owner who wanted to install bumpers. This created an interesting problem, in that the UFP/3 was a wider design and the bumpers I provide today won't adequately fill in the gap between the brackets and the scooter's bodywork. Although he never took me up on it, I came up with a solution: it turns out that it is entirely possible to nest one bumper's stem inside another bumper's mounting hole, doubling the length. Run a screw through from the second bumper (the screw head is buried inside a counterbore inside the bumper) and a nut on the inboard side, and voila - an extra-large bumper.

It just occured to me that I had unknowingly hit on a solution to using the top hole. That extra-long bumper for the top hole of a UFP/3 could also be used in a lower hole in a UFP/LT or UFP/XT. The third hole is too big a gap, but the second hole works - in my experiment shown below, it was a tight squeeze but that was without the nut & bolt, which would compress the two bumpers together and make a perfect fit. Put the double bumper in the second hole of the bracket and mount the footpeg to the now-empty top hole.

In theory, this could also provide additional stiffening to taller riders mounting pegs in the third and especially the new fourth hole. The problem is that in this case, the screw end and nut will be facing outwards directly into the rider's ankle, and I'm not sure that's a particularly smart idea. (A peg mounted in the top hole avoids this problem, because the screw and nut would be below the footpeg, out of sight and out of the way.) Possibly an acorn nut with a screw of exactly the right length would be a possibility. Also, it's only extending the bumper's "fulcrum" point out by another 3/4", perhaps not enough to provide significant additional bracing.

But if you have been holding off on buying a UFP because your small stature makes you think the footpegs would be too far out, this is definitely an option to consider!

I just completed the installation of the UFP's on my MP3 500. It was easy, fast, and WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I am "vertically challenged" as some might say (short as others would say...) and at 5'5", I have never been able to "flat-foot" the bike at a full stop, but with think soled boots, I can manage pretty well. Today was 90 degrees here in New Orleans, and with my dragon jeans on, it was a HOT ride. I flipped the pegs down and rested my feet on them for the first time, and a lovely breeze filled my pants legs and instantly provided a cooling breeze that made the ride very enjoyable. Thanks to all for the time and energy spent in developing this upgrade that takes our ride to another level.

One question regarding the install...? I have tightened the top screw on the right side to the point that it is snug, but when I try to tighten it up a smidgen more, it seems to "slip"... The left side is snug, and both bottom screws are tight as well. Any thoughts?

Here are a few photos of the completed install. For those that are interested, I purchased the Rivco Flat pegs found here: http://www.rivcoproducts.com/products/product.php?productid=193&cat=221&page=1 They fit beautifully and feel great.

Wow, those are so cool! The various pegs that Revco makes seem to have struck a chord here, and frankly I am considering a set of the black rubberized pegs previously posted for myself.

As mentioned in FAQ #2, you will indeed need to tighten the screws a couple of times for the first month as you are dealing with speednuts that gradually settle into place. it is therefore completely normal that you have a speednut that seems snug but when you go back later you find you can tighten it a bit more. (What is actually happening is the cage that surrounds the nut is gradually compressing.) However, you definitely don't want to really crank down as those speednuts will fail long before the threads of the screws will strip. Hand snug is all you need.

One note: you'll want to adjust those so that the hinge folds up parallel to the peg ears (safer in a ground contact), while using that external allen key to adjust the angle of the peg surface to match your foot. More explanation why at Peg scraping!.

Thanks rjeffb... I will make the modifications tomorrow and take another photo. After reading the referenced thread, I believe I understand the concept better, but we will see after the next round of photos. Thanks again!

Having read everything I could find in this forum about using the 500's foot plates on a 400 - and noting in particular the need to use spacers (also referenced above by Sateep) - I ordered everything I thought I needed for the install, and of course wound up with no spacers.
I did a trial installation yesterday, and after lengthy - very lengthy - fiddling to get the bolts to engage the nuts (get front one to catch, leave it loose, move to the the rear bolt, repeat), I have the plate and the UFP installed, without spacers and without a clue why I would need spacers. Can someone enlighten me on what I may be doing wrong.
I also have printed out Maksor's explanation of the installation of the rear aluminum plates, and after five readings, finally understood that he is first bolting on the plastic foot rest assembly to the top of the 400 foot rest, and then the plate into that. There's a better picture of that in this thread, but I wonder if it looks a bit cobby?
And I agree Sateep's paint job is gorgeous - I have to find a powder coat guy.

went out today and did some UFP peg scraping with Fuzzy.

LIFE IS GOOD!

So jealous - it was 75 degrees today but my seat is off in California!

John D. - if you look through the old threads you will find that the UFPs do seem to encourage people to take deeper, more confident turns - just look at these two old farts' posts above. It's probably more psychological than physical but hey, whatever works! (Speaking personally, it makes the MP3 feel like a cruiser and that's something I have a lot more experience on.)

Creeker, ignore the UFPs for just a moment. You are cranking down a screw onto a relatively thin aluminum plate with nothing underneath it. You are likely going to bend that plate inwards (downwards).

Bearing in mind that I have never installed diamondplate on an MP3, I suspect that spacers are in fact completely superfluous for the two screw holes where the UFP is located, because the UFP acts like one honking big (engineering term) washer to spread the force all over the diamondplate. But you should still use a spacer in the far aft hole to keep from damaging the floorplate. I suspect Sateep was recommending getting the entire spacer set because if for some reason you remove the UFP, you can still use the screws on the bare diamondplate.

Thanks, Jeff. Other than the three locations for the bolts to secure the foot plate, it seems well supported and, in fact, seats (with some nudging) into the indentation in the plastic floorboard. For the rearmost bolt, I bought a stainless, tapered head bolt the same length as the ones you supplied for the UFP, and it seems not to have caused any depression of the foot plate in that area. I'll have another look when I do the other side.

Demonstrating yet again that I don't know much, I looked at the foot plate install today, and it seems fine - there's no puckering of the aluminum plate, which seems well-supported. I think the spacers are superfluous.