Modern Vespa

I understand you have since managed to fix that bracket following StickyFrog's repair tutorial, can we see a picture of the repaired UFP?

The turn signal fell off because it is designed to disconnect if you so much as look at it wrong!

i couldn't find sticky's post...
so i just went to my workshop, clamp the UFP on a visa and use a big wrench to restore it... lol

here's a photo of the restored look...



now it's with a slight gloss brushed finish...

My UFP's arrived today, just under 2 weeks so not bad. Thanks to Old As Dirt for help transfering payment, Paypal normaly reliable but were not playing ball.

I'm very happy with the quality of the brackets, very strong and professional looking. Just have to choose the pegs now.

rjeffb:

Have you ever had anyone ask you to see if you can come up with a bracket for a Genuine Buddy scooter?

Ignore the hanging saddlebags. They don't look so floppy when they are buckled up.

Anyhow, I wanted to post yesterday's Costco run picture, as the scooter is much more loaded down than in this one (stuff on the floorboard and behind me on the seat as well), but I have a new phone, and it is being uncooperative. It was so loaded down that I had to give up on putting it back up on its center stand when I got home (I darned near hyperextended my leg before I gave up on it)...luckily it has a sidestand too since it doesn't have tilt lock!

The point is, that when there's stuff on the floorboard I only have an inch or so to place my feet. If I could get some foot pegs placed up front like you have for the MP3s, it would make life so much easier.

I'm thinking it might need a more elaborate bracket...maybe one that goes underneith and on top to secure it properly, but who knows...maybe you're up to a challenge....?

I'm thinking that if you came up with a viable option, you'd have a bunch of takers on the modernbuddy forum as it is a topic I have seen come up on occasion.

Yeah that is pretty much what I did. Hammer to straighten then a hammer on a big crescent wrench to get the twist out.

Here are my initial thoughts.

There's no forward swoop like on the MP3, which is what makes the UFP work so well (the bracket anchors in two axes, and the bumper makes three - I'll have to draw a 3D schematic someday to demonstrate because this comes up a lot when people ask me to design something for a Burgman or other large scooter). You'd have to bolt into the frame under the floorboard and it would have to be VERY strong because footpegs would put a twisting moment on the mounting point - floorboard brames are typically strong under compressive loads but very weak under torque loads.

I considered mounting off the sidestand, but that's only on the left side, correct? What exactly does the sidestand screw into? Is it something that exists on both sides?

I think I have something much easier for you.You have actual flat (more or less) floorboard bridging the left and right sides, something that does not exist on an MP3 because of the center hump. Suppose you laid a flat metal bar across the front of the floorboard. Now suppose that the ends of that metal bar was bent down and forward, and had holes drilled in them to bolt a footpeg to. You might have to put a bumper under each end to keep the footpegs from flexing but probably not even that. This would be almost entirely compressive, very strong indeed.

But this introduces a new and possibly dangerous problem: ground clearance! The pegs would be at the low point of the floorboard and, if they are to give any additional legroom, they'd have to hang low to the ground. Instead of using just a straight board, use a V shape - imagine a boomerang nestled up against the steering column. The V ends, and the pegs, would hang off around the front wheel brake mechanism (the same location as the UFPs on an MP3). Because it's forward, the pegs wouldn't have to hang so low; but more to the point, because it's now at a higher location there's more ground clearance to begin with.

I still don't know what the bar would mount to, but that's hardly insurmountable because the mounting point doesn't need to withstand a lot of force; it's just to keep the bar from sliding around.

I'm pretty sure this could be done without much difficulty. It would likely be more expensive that the UFP because we're talking more metal, and it would be a LOT harder to ship because it's one very big piece instead of two small pieces (it could be designed in pieces that bolt together but that would make it even more expensive to make, and less strong). The biggest obstacle is, I would need personal access to a bike to take measurements, investigate mounting options, and try out prototypes. But maybe this idea will give somebody at MB a start - or perhaps you know MB members from north Jersey?

I just had another idea, but it depends on there being nothing but empty space inside the black plastic steering column at the floorboard (including the front wheel when compressed going over bumps). If you could drill a big hole at floorboard level (where that black plastic meets the side of the floorboard) clean through without hitting anything vital, I think there's an incredibly easy way to mount extremely strong footpegs to it. But ONLY IF.

sent ya pm thanks

The check is on the way... Let me know when you get it, Thanks

Hi,

I would like to order a set for my Gilera Fuoco 500. I am in Australia and can pay USD129 by paypal.

Please let me know if this is OK

Regards
jaktaknz

It's been said before, but I'm going to say it again anyway....

If you don't have these on your bike, get them now.

I went for a 6 hour ride on Saturday. Painful, to say the least.

I put the brackets on when I got home. Rode about 80 miles on Sunday. What a world of difference! It's like an easy chair now.

My back thanks you!

Kilo

Say, Jeff, since I have my brackets etc, I haven't paid much attention to this thread. So, today I did look at it and I had a thought. Here is this: http://www.modernbuddy.com/pdf/BUDDY_125_PARTS_FIG.pdf
Notice F6.2, F7, and F12.2. Seems like there is a pipe frame and the Buddyware screws or bolts to it. Mounting screws? do you suppose?

For the life of me I can't visualize it between the drawings. At the bottom front where the frame starts to swoop up, there's a small welded-on platform with a screw hole coming in from the top (just in front of a much larger ear hanging off the side with a big thru hole). I can't figure out what screws into that platform and where exactly it sits relative to the floorboard area. It certainly looks like a good strong anchor point, much stronger than any one screwhole on the MP3 (which attaches to a U-channel, which attaches to a series of transverse members, which finally then attach to the frame). If I just look at figure F12.2 and then flip back and forth between it and the photo Michelle posted, it seems like that platform is just outboard of the main steering column - in exactly the location you'd want pegs to go. But if there are no screws in the floorboard, then what goes into those screw holes? I'm thinking that maybe there are screws there after all, sort of how on an MP3/400 you have to lift up the rug to see them?

Ideally you'd want a minimum of two attachment points to keep the bracket from rotating around the single screw hole, but a properly placed and sized bumper along the side might take care of that.

I see the "platform with a screw hole coming in from the top." Then, moving back, " a much larger ear hanging off the side with a big thru hole." That looks like the side stand mounting point. Further toward the back, there is another "platform with a screw hole coming in from the top." It does not show well on the left frame tube, but look at the right tube. It looks like both frame tubes have the same "platform with a screw hole coming in from the top." I suppose there are threads or captive nuts in them. Dia. F6.2 shows the "dshboard" (pt. #3 ?), the "firewall" (pt. # 2 ?), and the lower front "wheel well" (pt. # 18 ?) I'll bet the bottom ends of pt. 18 and pt. 3 bolt through, dia. F7 , the side covers, pts. 7 & 10 and/or the floor plate, pt. 1.

How about this? Picture an "H." Extend the cross bar to become the pegs. Put holes at the top and bottom of each "leg" to attach to the "platforms ..." The crossbar goes across the floor board. Looks really phlatt. The extensions on the crossbar could be the pegs or they could bend down (or up) and have holes for mounting pegs (just like REAL motor scooters!)

I really wish I knew how to put sketches on here.

Say, on dia. F7 pt 1 there are 2 screws #2 on the very front edge. I'll bet they go into the front "platforms ..." on the frame tubes. And the dashboard on Dia F6.2 is attached at the same place. Then the side covers are hung on. F7 shows the floorboard cover, pt. 6.


Now that I think of it, michelle is the one who started all this. Isn't she the lady who did all those diagrams? You'd think she could lift that floor cover up and take a couple of pictures of what's there. And post them, too.

By George, I do believe you've got it right. That mounting point further back is too far back (the ground clearance thing I mentioned) but an H-bracket...didn't think of that, yes that could work, really strong. It also makes perfect sense that the big hole is for the stand.

Perhaps Michelle would like to cut-n-paste this portion of the thread over to the MB.com web site. In any event, since it won't work with a UFP or the UFP concept, I don't claim any proprietary attachment to this and am happy to let other people work on this elsewhere.

Hi does any one know if the foot peg bracket is avalible in the UK or if i can get some shipped to the UK from US (and at what cost )
I would be greatful for any help

after missing all week with a dead battery.
( got the tender charger first and tried THAT)
installed the battery and viola. in business. next up. ufb and pegs.

forward right side screw and nut were misthreaded by the manufacturer.
noticed it on removing the screw. and sure enough when i removed the hwole plate you can see the nut is farked up as well as the original screw. the provided screws go into the other two nuts with ease.

"2. The MP3 makes extensive use of "speedclips" and (in this case) "speednuts." If when mounting the brackets you find that you have to force the screws, STOP - you are misthreading and you will probably cause the speednut to dislodge. Back it out and try again. Screws should thread in EASILY with an allen wrench under minimal finger force."

i paid close attention to the instruction. quesion is..

NOW WHAT?

remove the plastics and change the speed nut.

Sorry about your trouble, that sucks I know. Check out Zinfan's series of "what to do" posts starting here MP3 Footpeg brackets - old thread (Post 953263) (these in fact led to the current caution you cited). You need to read that post and several that follow.

meaning the thread on the old speed nut will be replaced..

too off some screws and got access to the old, removed,
now off to the hardware store...


will get some pics once the pegs are on...

I presume you saw that RamblerDan posted just yesterday that he has extra speednuts he's willing to part with?

To rjeffb (Bracketmeister). My name is Jeffrey Gold. My shipping address is 2320 pleasant drive longwood,florida,32779 I will send you a check or money order for the amount due on the foot peg brackets. Thank you in advance for your assistance in this matter. Jeff

you are going to love them

Sorry Jeff you might need my phone number just in case so here it is: (432) 356-1436

jgold, take a minute to understand how the Private Message system works - you have a PM waiting from me right now.

so, the close up pegs pics are redundant since someone else had the ellipticals and already posted...

but, now, w/ Madstad screen, GIVI 450 box and the pegs,Marin islands and Richmond Bridge in backround...


what a pain in my ass...

first too many pixels, NOW too big... screw it...
goin get myself a bloody burger...






grumble grumble...

that damned misthreaded speed nut started it all...\


test ride round China Camp reveals a much better ergonomic position w/ the pegs, and better, more comfy leaning, leading to a few stand scrapes..
letting the thing lean properly comes with time I guess...

I use PhotoPaint and do it myself, but there are others here who will be glad to point you to an automated on-line tool that resizes both pixels and file size for you automatically. Great picture so I for one appreciate the effort.

NOTE TO jgold

If you're "lurking" with out logging in, you will not see your Private Messages. Once you log in, you will see a list of options across the top. One of them is "Messages." It will alert you that you have messages waiting for you. You can click on it to see your messages.

Hello all I'm new to this forum and have had a mp3 500 for a little over a month and love it! I'm slowly adding mods to it. I'm going to add the ufp's but have a quick question. Will they drag and hit ground if doing normal everyday turns? I know if I'm aggressive they will but was curious on regular turns.

short answer is ....no in regular everyday turns.

You have to work at it to get a footpeg to touch down, they are designed with a large safety margin. Even banked at maximum lean, very short footpegs will not drag on flat ground. Contact comes with deep bank combined with longer pegs and uneven ground and/or high speed, both of which compress the shocks in addition to the lean.

actually not high speed but speeds under 40 are most of the time when I scrape, just tight corners.

Just make sure when you install your pegs, you put them so they will "flip up" properly.
Ditto in what OAD says. I have only scraped on really tight turns with an incline. No scraping during normal turns.

Hello I'm trying to install these and all is well except the front screw on the left bracket go in about 3/4:then I can't turn anymore. Any ideas?The stock screw was hard to get out as well.

Run a tap through the threads. Also the screws are different lengths make sure the long one is not in the wrong location or it could be bottoming out.

The four screws that came with the UFP are the same length. Also what kind of tap to get? I've never done that before. Thanks.

Use a toothpick as a shadetree depth gage before turning either a tap or bolt in.

Finally got it to work using the tap and a couple tries. Thanks for ur help Fuzzy now I at least know what a tap is.

Glad it worked out but disturbing that the original screw was difficult to remove; hadn't heard that one before. Rust? I presume it could not have been misthreaded, surely Piaggio has torque specs on all this stuff. Or just air wrenched in? I hate air wrenches, Sears Automotive ruined a set of Belleville washers on my Isuzu Amigo wheels using an air wrench and could have caused my wheel bearings to fail if I hadn't caught it.

Fuzzy, I went to all screws the same length shortly after the UFP/LT was introduced in 2010 because on some bikes the short screw wouldn't catch the thread with the thicker bracket.