
I'll start assuming you've got the fork dropped from the bike. You don't have to remove the fender for any of this so we'll ignore that task for now.
First step is to pry off the little rubber cover that keeps dirt off the speedo drive.

Behind it is the speedo drive nut, which is a REVERSE THREAD and I believe a 14mm (might be 13, can't remember). If you leave the hub on the axle, this will give you something to leverage against as you loosen the speedo nut. If you get a desperate, an impact wrench will make short work of it. In the photo, see how I position the hub against the workbench to resist the loosening of the speedo nut.


Once the speedo nut is off, you can flip the hub over and remove the brake drum. This is pretty standard, remove the cotter pin, then the castellated hub nut and washer. Again, I hate to admit it but an impact wrench sure makes this a breeze.

Now, with the hub off, you can see the seal around the axle. Pry it out with a flathead screwdriver. You'll want to replace it, so don't sweat jacking it up.

Under that is a circlip that secures the first bearing in the hub. Remove it using a decent pair of circlip pliers

Now you can drive the axle out from the side that housed the speedo nut. I use a small punch that fits inside the divot on the end of the axle, thereby not hitting the threads. You could also use a peice of wood there to buffer the impact, but in any case it usually comes out pretty easy.


Now you can see inside the hub to the biggest pain in the ass part. There is a retaining ring in there that requires a specialty tool or something homemade. I don't have measurements on it and I have never made a proper tool, though I would like to one of these days. I've managed to get it with a little peice of metal cut to fit the gaps and some pliers, heat and patience. This ring is also a REVERSE THREAD



Anyway, once you get the ring out, there is another bearing that needs replacement behind it. drive it out the same direction as the axle using a socket or whatever fits.
Now you are ready to remove the hub from the fork. Pry the link over off and you will see 2 nuts holding the hub to the fork. I don't really remember, but I'm going to say they are 13mm and 17 or 19mm) Anyway, they are normal left hand thread, remove them both and their associated washers. Then remove the link cover bottom half.


There will be o-rings or seals on either side of the hub on both arms. Replace them upon rebuild. At this point you can slide the hub off the fork.
Now you can remove the brake shoes from the hub. There are many methods, but here is mine. Remove the circlip. Then use your circlip pliers to pry the shoes apart at the cam, and when they are apart, slide the operating cam out of the hub. Then you can release the pliers, and simply slide the shoes of the mounting post. You should probably replace shoes most anytime you are in there, as well as the little circlip.



Now your hub is stripped. All that is left is the fork. To remove the shock, hold the top nut with a 14mm spanner, and use a flathead screwdriver in the top of the threaded post. Loosen the spanner and the nut will come right off, freeing the shock from the fork. Be careful its easy to strip the flat screwdriver part. If corroded, use PB blaster, heat and patience.


Don't forget to remove the grease nipple. Before rebuild make sure it isn't clogged, or replace it. They are pretty easily found at good hardware stores.

Finally, remove the bearing from the fork. I use a slide hammer, but I have driven them out with a socket before and that is also fine.


Also, you'll need to remove the old larger bearing from the axle, just stick it a vice, with a rag to catch the axle and use a a RUBBER mallet to drive the axle out.

Anyway, that's it. I didn't document my last rebuild, but obviously it basically the reverse. One of these days I can post a rebuild tutorial as well.
The axle bearings are a 6201 and a 6203
The Fork bearings are 1816
The seal is a 24x40x7 for most smallies,
or 17x40x7 for 4-lug rim models.
Hope all this helps.
[MOD EDIT 2023] - This was such a well done post that I searched it for reference some 12 years later. Below, I will try to add thumbnails without the watermarks from Pbucket as it helps Luddites like myself and may help others.