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@adastra avatar
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'74 Rally, '66 SS180, '64 GSmk2, & a mess of smallies.
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@adastra avatar
'74 Rally, '66 SS180, '64 GSmk2, & a mess of smallies.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 729
Location: lawrence, ks
UTC quote
Let's see if this is helpful:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
I'll start assuming you've got the fork dropped from the bike. You don't have to remove the fender for any of this so we'll ignore that task for now.

First step is to pry off the little rubber cover that keeps dirt off the speedo drive.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Behind it is the speedo drive nut, which is a REVERSE THREAD and I believe a 14mm (might be 13, can't remember). If you leave the hub on the axle, this will give you something to leverage against as you loosen the speedo nut. If you get a desperate, an impact wrench will make short work of it. In the photo, see how I position the hub against the workbench to resist the loosening of the speedo nut.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Once the speedo nut is off, you can flip the hub over and remove the brake drum. This is pretty standard, remove the cotter pin, then the castellated hub nut and washer. Again, I hate to admit it but an impact wrench sure makes this a breeze.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Now, with the hub off, you can see the seal around the axle. Pry it out with a flathead screwdriver. You'll want to replace it, so don't sweat jacking it up.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Under that is a circlip that secures the first bearing in the hub. Remove it using a decent pair of circlip pliers
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Now you can drive the axle out from the side that housed the speedo nut. I use a small punch that fits inside the divot on the end of the axle, thereby not hitting the threads. You could also use a peice of wood there to buffer the impact, but in any case it usually comes out pretty easy.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Now you can see inside the hub to the biggest pain in the ass part. There is a retaining ring in there that requires a specialty tool or something homemade. I don't have measurements on it and I have never made a proper tool, though I would like to one of these days. I've managed to get it with a little peice of metal cut to fit the gaps and some pliers, heat and patience. This ring is also a REVERSE THREAD
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Anyway, once you get the ring out, there is another bearing that needs replacement behind it. drive it out the same direction as the axle using a socket or whatever fits.

Now you are ready to remove the hub from the fork. Pry the link over off and you will see 2 nuts holding the hub to the fork. I don't really remember, but I'm going to say they are 13mm and 17 or 19mm) Anyway, they are normal left hand thread, remove them both and their associated washers. Then remove the link cover bottom half.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
There will be o-rings or seals on either side of the hub on both arms. Replace them upon rebuild. At this point you can slide the hub off the fork.

Now you can remove the brake shoes from the hub. There are many methods, but here is mine. Remove the circlip. Then use your circlip pliers to pry the shoes apart at the cam, and when they are apart, slide the operating cam out of the hub. Then you can release the pliers, and simply slide the shoes of the mounting post. You should probably replace shoes most anytime you are in there, as well as the little circlip.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Now your hub is stripped. All that is left is the fork. To remove the shock, hold the top nut with a 14mm spanner, and use a flathead screwdriver in the top of the threaded post. Loosen the spanner and the nut will come right off, freeing the shock from the fork. Be careful its easy to strip the flat screwdriver part. If corroded, use PB blaster, heat and patience.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Don't forget to remove the grease nipple. Before rebuild make sure it isn't clogged, or replace it. They are pretty easily found at good hardware stores.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Finally, remove the bearing from the fork. I use a slide hammer, but I have driven them out with a socket before and that is also fine.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Also, you'll need to remove the old larger bearing from the axle, just stick it a vice, with a rag to catch the axle and use a a RUBBER mallet to drive the axle out.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Anyway, that's it. I didn't document my last rebuild, but obviously it basically the reverse. One of these days I can post a rebuild tutorial as well.

The axle bearings are a 6201 and a 6203
The Fork bearings are 1816
The seal is a 24x40x7 for most smallies,
or 17x40x7 for 4-lug rim models.

Hope all this helps.

[MOD EDIT 2023] - This was such a well done post that I searched it for reference some 12 years later. Below, I will try to add thumbnails without the watermarks from Pbucket as it helps Luddites like myself and may help others.
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@birdsnest avatar
UTC

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@birdsnest avatar
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UTC quote
Great post.

Again, huge thanks to Adastra for taking the time to document this.


(edit - the post above was split from another thread.)
OP
@adastra avatar
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'74 Rally, '66 SS180, '64 GSmk2, & a mess of smallies.
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Posts: 729
Location: lawrence, ks
 
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@adastra avatar
'74 Rally, '66 SS180, '64 GSmk2, & a mess of smallies.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 729
Location: lawrence, ks
UTC quote
Thanks for moving the thread.

I'll update next time I rebuild one. This one will be a while before it gets painted.

Anyway, tips and corrections are always welcome. Especially people's homemade solutions to removing the castellated ring inside the hub.
@professor_plum avatar
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Wrench
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@professor_plum avatar
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UTC quote
Here's the tool I made up to remove that ring..

I used it with those holes in the side and screwdriver, but then
welded it to a socket for impact use, way easy..

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

OP
@adastra avatar
UTC

Addicted
'74 Rally, '66 SS180, '64 GSmk2, & a mess of smallies.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 729
Location: lawrence, ks
 
Addicted
@adastra avatar
'74 Rally, '66 SS180, '64 GSmk2, & a mess of smallies.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 729
Location: lawrence, ks
UTC quote
Professor Plum wrote:
Here's the tool I made up to remove that ring..

I used it with those holes in the side and screwdriver, but then
welded it to a socket for impact use, way easy..

Thanks Prof, that's real nice. Adding it to my list of welding projects (along with stealing your frame dolly design!)
⬆️    About 13 years elapsed    ⬇️
@birdsnest avatar
UTC

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@birdsnest avatar
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UTC quote
I knew this post existed in the dark, forgotten grey matter that once served as my memory. I found it last night (Thanks Jess for the much improved search feature!) but was saddened to see the PBucket watermarks all over it. I went and tried to save the thumbnails as web images and re-add them to the thread. For now, they are reposted in sequence at the bottom of the OG post. (Except for a the last few snaps as I maxed out the attachment quota.)

Hat tip to the OP. Adastra was a good egg!
@birdsnest avatar
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@birdsnest avatar
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UTC quote
Funny too: was yammering with Poi Dog yesterday kvetching about front end work and I said the only one I had ever changed bearings on was a P.

Nope... evidence here reminds me it was a smallie. (Must have been my first Citrus primavera.) Geez, I am that old. Crying or Very sad emoticon Crying or Very sad emoticon
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9180
Location: Nashville

87 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9180
Location: Nashville

87 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
You're doin' the lord's work here, BN.

Nice job saving a great post from the eventual bitrot of PhotoBucket!
@birdsnest avatar
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@birdsnest avatar
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UTC quote
…or the devil's business.


Thanks Adastra wherever you are these days!
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@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9180
Location: Nashville

87 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9180
Location: Nashville

87 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
Birdsnest wrote:
…or the devil's business.
Why not both!?
@ray8 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
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Location: Los Angeles
 
Molto Verboso
@ray8 avatar
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Posts: 1744
Location: Los Angeles
UTC quote
Birdsnest wrote:
Thanks Jess for the much improved search feature!
It's awesome.
Been digging in the crates here (before otherwise going in blind on my smallie). Pretty much every question is already there.
You guys were a hoot back then!

Youtube's algorithm has also been kind.

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