Modern Vespa

So here is the solution I adopted to get a '78 P200 to go after a clutch-side seal spring took out the rotary valve pad.

Malossi kit from MotorSport San Diego, including adapters, valve, Dellorto 30mm carb.

First you have to remove material from inside the case. This shows where following their instructions (poor instructions) then the result.



Next you have to enlarge the intake port and match the adapter pieces so you have a smooth flow into the case. Also on this kit you have to clear an area so the adapter can bolt square onto the case.



The throttle and choke cables that come with the kit need to be carefully cut to length and are a pain of trial and error. The bellows that comes with the kit is too short. I made an adapter from a piece of PVC 45 degree water pipe, and used a standard bellows. It bothers me a little that there is no air filter, but I will probably adapt a furnace filter and install it inside the body cavity.


Here is what the kit looks like before installation. (except for the base plate)


I have 300 miles on the run in and it feels very strong, but I am keeping under 45. Can't wait to open it up.

Nice work.

A general tip, helpful for any port matching/mods etc. Use Dykem layout fluid. Its a machinists tool in an aerosal can. You could line up your intake and spray the stuff in there, and you'll see it catch wherever the matching is off. Also great for cylinder kits.

http://www.amazon.com/Dykem-80000-Fluid-Aerosol-Layout/dp/B00065TNKC/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1302797950&sr=8-32

Washes out with brake cleaner.

Nice! This is what I'm talking about...

So what's the set up? Crank/cyl/exh...

Make sure those 90 degree cable ells are clear of the frame when the suspension compresses.. I have broke both choke and throttle..

Yes me too

Great work mate. Did you take pictures of your case/cylinder porting? Curious to see how aggressive you went in.

Also, what cylinder is that in your picture?

Cheers

Those kits used to come with and extender for the bellow. Just a little aluminum part.

Professor-

Stock cylinder and head. I used a Dremel on the cyl ports just to eliminate the sharp edges.

Tried to keep it as simple as possible.

Yes, the right angle on the cables clears the cowls. I pointed them forward.

The little aluminum piece of crap adapter did not make an effective seal or extend far enough so the bellows they provided could connect to the body. I like my solution better because when the bellows blows I just use a standard one, instead of trying to get a replacement from Malossi. You do have to carefully shape the PVC part not to block the jet holes in the bell of the carb.

Completed 600 mile run in.

Top speed on the flat, no wind, with me (210lb) old guy on it: 63mph.

Great climbing power, fast off the line.

There is a funny bubbling feeling just at the place on the throttle where you start throttling back to cruise at about 45mph.

Next I will plug chop until I get the right jetting. I know it is running rich right now, which was ok for the run in.

What was your cost to go reed valve on this?

What all parts did you have to buy?

I bought the kit from MotorSport in San Diego. $319.

http://www.scooterwest.com/items/?_pageCCS=t#page=/item_details/Malossi-Reed-Kit-W-Carb-For-PX/1488

The bellows from the body to the carb came with an inadequate aluminum adapter, and the angle of the bellows was wrong in my opinion. I fabricated an adapter from a piece of 45Degree angle PVC water pipe (careful to insure the venturi entrance was cleared so the jets would not be shrouded) and was able to use the standard bellows.

The kit has a 30mm Dellorto carb, cables (which have to be trial-and-error fitted) and the multi-part manifold that houses the reed valve.

It took some patience to fit the kit and of course you have to dremel out the cases where the rotary valve was. Their instuctions were minimal, but I figured it out.

Exhaust on yours??

You will get high 60's once tuned in IMO...

I had to drop needle jet a size, to av260 which is the smallest they have for the 30..

To help you get a baseline, and something to compare to...

My setup is, same carb kit, mazz cut crank(had crank in before, so I had to do less opening), P200 cylinder I ported mildly, Simonini pipe..

this is the sweet jetting for me:

PHBH 30
53 idle 1 turn out
130 main
AV260 needle jet
X3 needle 2nd from top

Did you notice any milage increase? Mine just smokes, must be 50+mpg cruising around 60mph(all my speeds are gps)..

O, and my stock reeds were 100% minty after 3k.. I think reasonable rpm's(like under 7k) will prolong them.. I have seen some that got ratty on the ends but that was in a high revving race type setup(typewritist's).

Need to do the same porting on my p200 for a Malossi with reed. Any chance of downloading the porting instructions here? I need to know the exact measurements as I can't quite make out your marks

Believe it or not, this is the all the instruction from Mallossi you get on porting!

I have blown it up so it is a little easier to see. However, if you study the cross-hatched areas you will see what they intend you to remove and polish.

Happy Dremel-ing!

Thx for that

How long did it take?
I have a dremmel with a decent but small tip. I have spent an hour and hardly touched it!!

Get a bigger bit then?

Sh##t!!!

I wasnt thinking when I started it and noticed that I didn't leave a little lip on the inside of the case!!

Am I welding? Does it even matter?

if you mean where the clutch side seal sits you should be ok if you use the metal type seal...

but don't take any more off....

Thx for the reply.
If you look at jwilliams photo of the porting, he ports out an area from 10 to 4 Around the inside of the case where the crank sits, but leaves a small lip on the inside where the crank sits

I dremmeled out the lip too from 2 to 4 by accident!!

Do I need to add weld now?

think a photo might help....

the seal has to have something to seal against..

If it looks like what you described, new clutch side case half bruv.

Don't mix case halves unless you also fit yellow boots.

WAIT A TICK. Do you have a problem with me welding multiple frames together? And I bet next you'll be telling me no shims made out of coke cans.

But yeah, new complete case, I realize they are made as a pair from the factory. I just meant its clutch side is toast if there is no sealing surface for the oil seal.

You went the hard route. I had the same issue happened to me, my engine "ingested " the iddle screw's spring. I was running my P200E just for like 5 miles until I get my original air filter back but I had the woprst luck when the iddle screw came lose and the sping dropped inside the engine.

I had the same excat damage plus the cylinder wall and piston got damaged. I ended putting a strong metal to metal epoxy and that fixed the scratches.

Scooterist,

Yeah, I tried that with the JB Weld fix to the rotary pad. Buttoned up the engine, fired on the first kick, gave it a rev to blow out the oil - whimpered and died.

Popped the cases and the JB Weld was gone in the largest grooves.

Yeah.. that was bad luck. I was hesitant to use JB weld but a friend of mine that works on vespas works on industrial equipment and he said that he had some really tough glue compound that he use at work for drilling bits and it worked for me.

My engine cases looked just like yours. I guess it worked out that way for you..

have any of you guys seen this new(ish) Pinasco kit? It's a piston-ported cylinder with a reed kit and a plate to cover the old rotary induction. It's definitely not the cheapest, but it's all in one.

It sounds like a good kit for people that don't have the patience or experience to put together their own reed kit. Also, none of it is permanent, so if you want to convert to reed for performance reasons, you can always go back to stock.

For 150 or 200? I haven't seen it for 200 blocks.

duh. 150. there are so many reed block threads these days I posted on the wrong one.

Hi! Love that little angled piece for the intake! What was the diameter? I'd like to do the same for my PHBH30 set-up, maybe adding some sort of filter-gauze to the inside of the bellows?