Vespa P125x will start and run but no lights.
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Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
Joined: 30 Aug 2017
Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Sat Sep 05, 2020 4:32 am quote
Hi all,

After finishing a few jobs on the scoot it now will start and run fine but no lights or indicators. However, the horn works. I have had the headset off for the other jobs and may have stretched cables. I have checked all connections in the headset, under the horncover and next to the spare wheel and all appear fine.

Any ideas what to look at next?

Thanks.
Addicted
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Joined: 24 Apr 2012
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Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Sat Sep 05, 2020 6:39 am quote
Pull out the multimeter and start checking if you're getting power from the regulator or non working component. From there follow the electrical lines forward or backward based on the multimeter readings.

Good luck!
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
Joined: 30 Aug 2017
Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Wed Sep 09, 2020 8:52 pm quote
Thanks for your help RowdyC. Just for clarity I have a European 1978 Vespa P125x without battery. It has an electronic ignition (CDI) and a 3 pole regulator and 4 pole ignition switch. After a lot of testing I have found that I am not getting any voltage across the black wires coming from the stator to the connector block on the engine case. I am getting 18v across the green wire at the same connector block.
At the regulator I am not getting any voltage at the black wire but I am getting 2 v at the yellow. I understand the black but not the yellow, any insights?
The horn works. The scoot starts and and runs well. There are no lights at all. All bulbs are fine and I have checked the continuity on most cables and have checked all connections throughout the scooter (even the foot brake!) which are fine.
Does this point to the stator plate and the black wire coming from a coil? Is this easy to diagnose and repair?
Thanks for your help so far. I will try and attach the wiring diagram. Those in yellow have been checked.

Any advice appreciated....



Jet Eye Master
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Wed Sep 09, 2020 10:17 pm quote
Regulator is dead. Need a new one. This is not unusual.
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
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Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Thu Sep 10, 2020 3:16 am quote
Hi Jack, so you think the regulator before the stator? Do you know of a way to check the regulator?

Thanks
Jet Eye Master
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Thu Sep 10, 2020 6:37 am quote
if the stator is ok, the horn works
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
Joined: 30 Aug 2017
Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Thu Sep 10, 2020 9:34 pm quote
Hi Jack, just for clarity. I am getting no voltage on the black wire coming from the stator which feeds the regulator. Doesnt the stator feed the regulator? Excuse my perhaps stupid questions but I am fairly new to this and struggle a little with electrics.
Yes the horn works, but I thought that was on a direct feed and not thrugh the regulator. Does its power come from a different coil?

Much appreciated.
Jet Eye Master
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Thu Sep 10, 2020 10:19 pm quote
The horn working proves power is coming from the stator and getting to the regulator. The lights not working proves the regulator is dead. If no wires have fell off this is it. You're not the first. It's a common problem.
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
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Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Fri Sep 11, 2020 5:32 am quote
Got that Jack. Thanks. Will order a new regulator and post how I get on.
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
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Location: Dubai
Tue Sep 22, 2020 8:45 am quote
It wasn't the regulator
Just an update here. I ordered a new regulator. It arrived today and I put it on. However, no joy. So the scooter starts no problem but no lights and indicators and the horn works.

Could it be the stator? And if so where do I start and what do I check? I have already checked most of the wiring around the scooter for continuity etc.

However, where do I start on the stator? I had checked voltage on the black wire from the junction box to the regulator and it had nothing.

Any ideas?
Jet Eye Master
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Tue Sep 22, 2020 1:34 pm quote
Well, this is unfortunate. Not much else it can be. If the horn works normally the regulator is getting power from the stator, so that is ok. If there is no power on the regulator output and the regulator is good, it can only be a short on the 12V side.
Very rarely a bulb can blow short. Could be that. But you probably changed the bulbs already. If not first thing. If the wiring loom has a short it might take some finding but would be more likely be intermittent if it was.
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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Tue Sep 22, 2020 2:48 pm quote
Hi Craigyc. Here's the numbers to test your stator, it should be a 5 wire according to age I think? Green white and red to CDI, blue (AC power out) and black is earth. You mention 2 blacks though, one of them has to be the power wire. I find it easier to disconnect everything except the CDI sometimes to avoid anything odd which may or may not be happening in the loom.
Quote:
STATOR VALUES, HOW TO TEST USING A MULTIMETER

the LML stators are identical except for the push connectors to the piaggio versions. The following tests can be carried out to a Piaggio Vespa stator in exactly the same way.


THREE IGNITION GROUPS:
1. green (LT)
2. white (EARTH)
3. red (CDI trip wire)

TWO LIGHT GROUPS:
4. black (EARTH)
5. blue (UN REGULATED AC) (more you rev the engine more voltage it makes)

to test the ignition (set meter to resistance ohms) put your black probe to the white cable (earth) and then make circuits with your red probe to:

1. engine case (should be short circuit or less than 1ohm). if not you have no earth continuity.

2. red wire (should be 93-120 ohms) if it is outside of this your pickup (halls effect sensor is fucked)

3. green wire (should be 450-540 ohms) if values fall outside of this your single ignition coil winding is damaged.

to test the lighting groups put your black probe to the black (earth) cable, then:

4. test to engine case, again this should be a short circuit less than 1 ohm.

last test on blue cable, start engine, set metre to AC voltage metre.

5. on engine idle it should be pumping out minimum of 21-38 volts at 600 rpm + you can get peak voltage to these values on a good kick of the starter pedal if you take the spark plug out first.

all these values are common on all electronic vespa stators. In addition to the above electrical tests you should physically inspect your stator. Look for breaks in windings, loose studs, dry soldered joints etc.
This is pretty easy to do, but your trouble may lay elsewhere if you are getting power to the horn. Worth knowing what voltage it's putting out at least.

Oh and obviously from the above, the 18 volts you saw were going to the CDI.
Ossessionato
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Tue Sep 22, 2020 4:13 pm quote
If the horn is working , shouldn't that indicate there is proper power at the switch and shouldn't the lites also be gaining its power from the same switch off steady power?
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
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Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Tue Sep 22, 2020 11:20 pm quote
Jack221 wrote:
Well, this is unfortunate. Not much else it can be. If the horn works normally the regulator is getting power from the stator, so that is ok. If there is no power on the regulator output and the regulator is good, it can only be a short on the 12V side.
Very rarely a bulb can blow short. Could be that. But you probably changed the bulbs already. If not first thing. If the wiring loom has a short it might take some finding but would be more likely be intermittent if it was.
Hi Jack, yes checked all the bulbs on the multi meter. A faulty switch perhaps?
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
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Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Tue Sep 22, 2020 11:24 pm quote
Ginch wrote:
Hi Craigyc. Here's the numbers to test your stator, it should be a 5 wire according to age I think? Green white and red to CDI, blue (AC power out) and black is earth. You mention 2 blacks though, one of them has to be the power wire. I find it easier to disconnect everything except the CDI sometimes to avoid anything odd which may or may not be happening in the loom.
Quote:
STATOR VALUES, HOW TO TEST USING A MULTIMETER

the LML stators are identical except for the push connectors to the piaggio versions. The following tests can be carried out to a Piaggio Vespa stator in exactly the same way.


THREE IGNITION GROUPS:
1. green (LT)
2. white (EARTH)
3. red (CDI trip wire)

TWO LIGHT GROUPS:
4. black (EARTH)
5. blue (UN REGULATED AC) (more you rev the engine more voltage it makes)

to test the ignition (set meter to resistance ohms) put your black probe to the white cable (earth) and then make circuits with your red probe to:

1. engine case (should be short circuit or less than 1ohm). if not you have no earth continuity.

2. red wire (should be 93-120 ohms) if it is outside of this your pickup (halls effect sensor is fucked)

3. green wire (should be 450-540 ohms) if values fall outside of this your single ignition coil winding is damaged.

to test the lighting groups put your black probe to the black (earth) cable, then:

4. test to engine case, again this should be a short circuit less than 1 ohm.

last test on blue cable, start engine, set metre to AC voltage metre.

5. on engine idle it should be pumping out minimum of 21-38 volts at 600 rpm + you can get peak voltage to these values on a good kick of the starter pedal if you take the spark plug out first.

all these values are common on all electronic vespa stators. In addition to the above electrical tests you should physically inspect your stator. Look for breaks in windings, loose studs, dry soldered joints etc.
This is pretty easy to do, but your trouble may lay elsewhere if you are getting power to the horn. Worth knowing what voltage it's putting out at least.

Oh and obviously from the above, the 18 volts you saw were going to the CDI.
Ginch, thanks mate this was really helpful. I took the stator off, which was a new stator when I first got the scoot 4 years ago. I did all the tests as prescribed above and all the values fel in the middle ie black to red @ 110; black to green @490 and blue AC voltage at 20v rising quick when the throttle pulled etc.
I assume therefore that the stator is good!
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
Joined: 30 Aug 2017
Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Tue Sep 22, 2020 11:33 pm quote
Recap after advice
Thanks all for pitching in here. It is a real head scratcher for me at the moment. Just to recap and retrace my steps I am posting an update:

After putting some nice shiny things on my scooter (front disc, new shocks) the engine runs but the lights and indicators wont work:

Vespa P125x 1978 - no battery
1. Engine starts and runs with no problem
2. Horn works
3. There are no lights at all and no indicators
4. I have checked for continuity in the majority of the loom from the stator to regulator and regulator onwards. No issues.
5. I have checked connections at the foot brake. No issues.
6. I have checked all bulbs with the multi. No issues.
7. I have replaced the regulator. this did not solve the issues so assume the original regulator was not the problem and is good.
8. Have taken the stator off, checked all cabling. Taken all meausrements on the multi meter as per the previous post and all were good.

I have not checked switches. Any good advice on checking switches?

Also is there somthing simple that I am missing here with regards to pinpointing where this issue is? What connects all the lights together? Is there some common link or switch that if it goes no lights work? I know about the hron not working and then that leading to not being able to start the scooter, is there anything else like this?

Thanks all for your input. If you can think of anything else please let me know!

Craig
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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Wed Sep 23, 2020 1:19 am quote
How about if you reinstall the stator, hook up the CDI and earth, but leave the power wire loose for the moment. Make sure all the switches are off.
Get it running, then connect the wire. If it arcs when you get it close, then there's a short of some kind happening. You could disconnect the switches and try the same thing, reconnecting until you get an arc. Not sure what switches you have on that early one but the later ones are difficult to disconnect (from memory).

Also on a number of earlier looms the green wire (usually shows first in the kill wire) is suspect and for some reason corrodes by itself. Not sure if this is a year or region thing but we tend to hear it regularly. Could explain the indicators at least.
Jet Eye Master
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Wed Sep 23, 2020 1:53 am quote
craigyc wrote:
Jack221 wrote:
Well, this is unfortunate. Not much else it can be. If the horn works normally the regulator is getting power from the stator, so that is ok. If there is no power on the regulator output and the regulator is good, it can only be a short on the 12V side.
Very rarely a bulb can blow short. Could be that. But you probably changed the bulbs already. If not first thing. If the wiring loom has a short it might take some finding but would be more likely be intermittent if it was.
Hi Jack, yes checked all the bulbs on the multi meter. A faulty switch perhaps?
Only if they are all faulty, including the indicator switch.

If you remove the Grey/Green connection to the regulator and start it up, the regulator should have 12V DC on its middle pin.

Once you have confirmed this check the grey/green to ground.
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
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Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Wed Sep 23, 2020 1:57 am quote
Ginch wrote:
How about if you reinstall the stator, hook up the CDI and earth, but leave the power wire loose for the moment. Make sure all the switches are off.
Get it running, then connect the wire. If it arcs when you get it close, then there's a short of some kind happening. You could disconnect the switches and try the same thing, reconnecting until you get an arc. Not sure what switches you have on that early one but the later ones are difficult to disconnect (from memory).

Also on a number of earlier looms the green wire (usually shows first in the kill wire) is suspect and for some reason corrodes by itself. Not sure if this is a year or region thing but we tend to hear it regularly. Could explain the indicators at least.
Hi Ginch, is the power wire the blue wire that has the 20v across it? If so when I tested the same blue wire, the scoot was running and I pulled the connectors apart. At that point there was an arc across the male and female spade connectors. Is this what you mean?
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 8067
Location: Victoria, Australia
Wed Sep 23, 2020 2:24 am quote
craigyc wrote:
Ginch wrote:
How about if you reinstall the stator, hook up the CDI and earth, but leave the power wire loose for the moment. Make sure all the switches are off.
Get it running, then connect the wire. If it arcs when you get it close, then there's a short of some kind happening. You could disconnect the switches and try the same thing, reconnecting until you get an arc. Not sure what switches you have on that early one but the later ones are difficult to disconnect (from memory).

Also on a number of earlier looms the green wire (usually shows first in the kill wire) is suspect and for some reason corrodes by itself. Not sure if this is a year or region thing but we tend to hear it regularly. Could explain the indicators at least.
Hi Ginch, is the power wire the blue wire that has the 20v across it? If so when I tested the same blue wire, the scoot was running and I pulled the connectors apart. At that point there was an arc across the male and female spade connectors. Is this what you mean?
It should be... the spark means there is either a load or an earth on that wire you connected the blue to. Can you test that wire for continuity to earth?
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
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Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Wed Sep 23, 2020 4:27 am quote
Jack221 wrote:
craigyc wrote:
Jack221 wrote:
Well, this is unfortunate. Not much else it can be. If the horn works normally the regulator is getting power from the stator, so that is ok. If there is no power on the regulator output and the regulator is good, it can only be a short on the 12V side.
Very rarely a bulb can blow short. Could be that. But you probably changed the bulbs already. If not first thing. If the wiring loom has a short it might take some finding but would be more likely be intermittent if it was.
Hi Jack, yes checked all the bulbs on the multi meter. A faulty switch perhaps?
Only if they are all faulty, including the indicator switch.

If you remove the Grey/Green connection to the regulator and start it up, the regulator should have 12V DC on its middle pin.

Once you have confirmed this check the grey/green to ground.
Hi Jack,

I have a a 3 port regulator. The top is black and is earth. The other two are yellow. I think when I tested before I got 2v on the middle wire, testing with one connection to the regulator and on to the wire. Is that what you mean? Cheers.
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Vespa P125X
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Wed Sep 23, 2020 7:53 am quote
Sorry top is black, middle is yellow and bottom is grey and green. Middle is getting 16v, into 20s when revved and bottom 9v, 12v when revved.

There is 16v across blue and yellow at the horn cast junction box and then zero across all others at the junction box.

Where to go next? Flummoxed!
Jet Eye Master
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Wed Sep 23, 2020 8:04 am quote
The grey/green should be in the middle and yellow at the end. Wires are crossed. Could it be that simple.
Yellow voltage should vary with rpm. And grey/green 12Vac max
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Vespa P125X
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Posts: 52
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Wed Sep 23, 2020 9:29 am quote
Jack221 wrote:
The grey/green should be in the middle and yellow at the end. Wires are crossed. Could it be that simple.
Yellow voltage should vary with rpm. And grey/green 12Vac max
Did try thay Jack but made no difference. Interestingly it worked fine in that configuration before it went on the blink. It 's like.you have suggested on the wiring diagram I have. I thought it a bit strange.
Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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Location: Veria, Greece
Wed Sep 23, 2020 12:19 pm quote
Late to chime in. European P series AC electric system is a bit stupid. The line going from the stator to the rectifier first passes through the horn switch. The horn button acts as a bridge and when you press it, you basically breaking the line and the stator voltage jumps to the horn making it sound like a duck. If there's a short there the whole system will die but not the horn. Do the steps I wrote on the following "diagram" (sorry for the hasty handwriting) and we will see how to proceed if the problem still persists...

Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
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Wed Sep 23, 2020 10:06 pm quote
SaFiS wrote:
Late to chime in. European P series AC electric system is a bit stupid. The line going from the stator to the rectifier first passes through the horn switch. The horn button acts as a bridge and when you press it, you basically breaking the line and the stator voltage jumps to the horn making it sound like a duck. If there's a short there the whole system will die but not the horn. Do the steps I wrote on the following "diagram" (sorry for the hasty handwriting) and we will see how to proceed if the problem still persists...

Thanks for this Safis. In terms of step 1, what do you mean by disconnecting the harness? What exactly do I need to do?
Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Posts: 2257
Location: Veria, Greece
Wed Sep 23, 2020 10:40 pm quote
Disconnect the wires going to the frame and measure only the stator output...
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
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Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Thu Sep 24, 2020 6:19 am quote
The results are in...
Ok guys. Firstly thanks for all the input. I would be stuffed without your help. I am in Dubai and there is no one here who could help me with this so THANKS!

Going off Safis sketch:
1. I disconnected all wires at the engine cowl junction and CDI apart from red and green on the CDI and started the engine.
Blue wire uncoupled - 20V across the blue wire
Black wire uncoupled - 0V across the black
Black bridged to blue - 20v revving to 50v

At the regulator:
Bottom yellow 15.5v from regulator to wire
Middle Grey Green 11.5v from regulator to wire

Horn works no lights or indicators.

2. Same as 1 in terms of CDI, blue connected to blue and black connected to black at the engine cowl junction box.
Bridge the incoming blue and yellow wires together

At the regulator: Engine idling unless revved
Bottom yellow to ground 20v revving to 50v
middle Grey green to ground 10-11.5v

I assume that means the stator and regulator are all good and it is beyond the junction box.

Where do I go next?

Cheers
Jet Eye Master
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Posts: 2751
Location: London UK
Thu Sep 24, 2020 11:50 pm quote
That's all done with the regulator. 12V ac on the middle pin is all it does.

Did you check the grey/green to ground?

Remove the grey/green from the regulator and check continuity between it and ground or black.

Should be not zero.
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
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Posts: 52
Location: Dubai
Fri Sep 25, 2020 1:13 am quote
Update
So...

I assume from my previous post that stator and regulator are ok. Correct?
Sould there be 0v across the black from the stator?

Therefore on to the lighting circuit. For clarity the horn works.

I reconnected the wires from the loom to the CDI.

I tested from the CDI to the green and this was 110v. Is this correct?

I connected the green to the CDI (Green to red on my CDI) and tested for continuity which was OK. I believe the greens can crumble. Picture below.

I tested from the end of the green at the headset to earth and got 110v. Is this correct?
picture below

I have tested continuity from all wires at the lighting switch to the headset and all seem ok.

I have tested the grey wire from the regulator to the headset and that had continuit and 0v.

Interestingly a small voltage between the grey at the headset to the light switch 0.2v

Do the connections at the headset and the key switch look OK?

My issue is I dont really know how to interpret the results.

Should the green have 110v? Where to go next?

HEEEEELP!!









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Vespa P125X
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Fri Sep 25, 2020 1:25 am quote
Jack221 wrote:
That's all done with the regulator. 12V ac on the middle pin is all it does.

Did you check the grey/green to ground?

Remove the grey/green from the regulator and check continuity between it and ground or black.

Should be not zero.
Getting 11v at idle Jack from the middle pin on the regulator to earth.
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Vespa P125X
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Fri Sep 25, 2020 1:26 am quote
Jack221 wrote:
That's all done with the regulator. 12V ac on the middle pin is all it does.

Did you check the grey/green to ground?

Remove the grey/green from the regulator and check continuity between it and ground or black.

Should be not zero.
Reading again, or do you mean from the grey and green wire to ground. This reads 0v.
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Vespa P125X
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Fri Sep 25, 2020 2:01 am quote
Perhaps a breakthrough?!
So at the middle pin I get 12v (10v ish at idle).

Is this then the regulated power out of the regulator and to the lights? (excuse the ignorance)

Therefore I should get the same reading to ground at the end of the grey wire? Is that correct?

Well I am getting a reading of 0.2v to ground at the end of the grey. You would therefore assume that the power is not getting from the regulator to the headset. However, checking the continuity from end to end is fine. The connector at the headset has two grey wires going into it.

On my wiring diagram it only shows 1 grey going into the headset. where is the other grey go to?

Hmmm this doesnt make sense.
Jet Eye Master
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Fri Sep 25, 2020 7:03 am quote
If you leave the grey/green connected at the regulator. And disconnect the grey from the headlight. The disconnected grey wire should have 12V (10V) on it when not connected.

The green from the regulator goes to the indicators.

If the grey has voltage when disconnected the problem is with the lights. If no voltage the problem is with the indicators.
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Vespa P125X
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Fri Sep 25, 2020 8:34 am quote
Hi Jack, thanks for your response. So when the green grey wire is connected to the regulator but not connected at the headlamp this currently has 0V when the wire is measured to ground.

Therefore the issue is with the indicators?

Can I ask how you know the problem is with the indicators? I am learning and would like to understand. Also in your experience where would you start when checking them out? Is it likely to be the relay? How do you test the relay? Would that also cut out all the lights? Or more likely the switch or the indicator grounding?

Thanks again for all the help and advice.
Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Posts: 2257
Location: Veria, Greece
Fri Sep 25, 2020 11:21 am quote
OK, since the stator and the rectifier are good then the grey wire is shorting somewhere, the wires going to the indicator switch are shorting or the flasher has gone bad. Having everything connected disconnect the red and white wires from the flasher unit. If you get lights then one of the wires or both are shorting somewhere and probably at the headset. If you don't get lights with these two disconnected, disconnect also the green wire. If you get lights then the flasher is bad. If you don't get lights then the grey wire is shorting somewhere. Do these steps and get back to us...
Enthusiast
Vespa P125X
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Fri Sep 25, 2020 9:16 pm quote
SaFiS wrote:
OK, since the stator and the rectifier are good then the grey wire is shorting somewhere, the wires going to the indicator switch are shorting or the flasher has gone bad. Having everything connected disconnect the red and white wires from the flasher unit. If you get lights then one of the wires or both are shorting somewhere and probably at the headset. If you don't get lights with these two disconnected, disconnect also the green wire. If you get lights then the flasher is bad. If you don't get lights then the grey wire is shorting somewhere. Do these steps and get back to us...
Hi Safis, I disconnected the red and white wires from the indicator relay, no lights. I then disconnected the green from the relay and no lights.

I have checked continuity on all wires from the indicator switch to the junction box. All are OK.

I have checked all wires across the headset and into the right hand side light switch for continuity and all are ok.

I have removed all connectors and used wet and dry paper on the connectors to ensure a good connection.

So at the headset, I get 0V from the grey wire but the continuity of the wire from headset to regulator is OK. What could be the issue?

Also, I have an aftermarket switch connected to the front brake lever which is connected to the foot brake to activate the brake light. Could this be an issue? I just see it as an add on rather than an integral part of the circuit.

If you wouldnt mind taking a look at the earlier photos of the headset and the ignition switch to confirm the wiring is correct it would be appreciated.

Where to look next?



Jet Eye Master
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Fri Sep 25, 2020 10:31 pm quote
Disconnect your add on brake light switch from the pedal and see if that works. This switch wiring could easily be the problem.
Brake light power is together with the indicators.
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Sat Sep 26, 2020 1:11 am quote
Hi Jack. Yes looked at that. Thought there may be a problem with continuity from the foot brake and fixedon new connectors etc. But no. It still didnt work.

So when I measure from the middle pin of the regulator I get 11v to ground. When I connect the grey and green wire to the regulator and again measure from the connected wire on the middle regulator tab I get 0.2v. Is this becasue there is a short somewhere in that circuit?

As well as fix this I am trying to understand whats happening.

Cheers.
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2751
Location: London UK
Sat Sep 26, 2020 2:57 pm quote
Yes, grey/green shorted to ground somewhere. This was said earlier in the thread.

The grey/green goes to the headlight, brake pedal and flasher unit. Pull off all three. Check 12V is back. Connect one at a time to find the issue.
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