OP
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Hi All,

thanks for all the help and advise so far.

I have replaced the front caliper and disk, and pads and master cylinder on my ET4.

the front brake lever is now a little floppy. when pulled it will brake fine but does not spring all the way back and so does not release the switch and the brake light stays on.

what do i need to do to get the level stiff again?

i could not find any sort of adjustments, and viagra did not seem to help
@old_as_dirt avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 GTS
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22483
Location: Harriman, Tennessee, Tn
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@old_as_dirt avatar
2007 GTS
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22483
Location: Harriman, Tennessee, Tn
UTC quote
Re: More front brake problems
simonhaffenden wrote:
Hi All,

thanks for all the help and advise so far.

I have replaced the front caliper and disk, and pads and master cylinder on my ET4.

the front brake lever is now a little floppy. when pulled it will brake fine but does not spring all the way back and so does not release the switch and the brake light stays on.

what do i need to do to get the level stiff again?

i could not find any sort of adjustments, and viagra did not seem to help
did you bleed the system ?
OP
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Yes,

I attached a clear hose to the outlet nipple , released and pumped the lever until the new fluid was showing in the container.

i then tightened the nipple and screwed on the lid.

did i miss a step?
@vespergeezer avatar
UTC

Addicted
GTS300, Cosa LX200
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Location: Sunny South West UK
 
Addicted
@vespergeezer avatar
GTS300, Cosa LX200
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Location: Sunny South West UK
UTC quote
simonhaffenden wrote:
Yes,

I attached a clear hose to the outlet nipple , released and pumped the lever until the new fluid was showing in the container.

i then tightened the nipple and screwed on the lid.

did i miss a step?
Could be worth re-visiting the bleeding, being sure to use a one-way valve in the end of the rubber tube, to be sure air flow is only one-way.

Some suggest holding the lever back with strong rubber bands for a few hours to pressure the system to encourage small bubbles of air to join into larger ones that can be more easily removed after.

Geeza
@silver_streak avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
2007 Vespa LX 190, 2011 LXV150ie
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Location: Annapolis, MD, USA
 
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@silver_streak avatar
2007 Vespa LX 190, 2011 LXV150ie
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8756
Location: Annapolis, MD, USA
UTC quote
simonhaffenden wrote:
Yes,

I attached a clear hose to the outlet nipple , released and pumped the lever until the new fluid was showing in the container.

i then tightened the nipple and screwed on the lid.

did i miss a step?
If you released the brake lever before you tightened the bleed screw after the last pump, then you probably drew air back into the system. As has already been suggested, you need to hold the lever down while you tighten the bleed screw, either with the help of an assistant or with a clamp or rubber band.

If you do this, a one-way valve isn't really necessary.
OP
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Thanks for the replys.

I have again bled the system with no improvement.

After head scratching and looking at the piston i realised that it did not protrude as far as the one on the old part i removed.

Also i have been unable to remove the piston from the cylinder.

Are there 2 types of master cylinder for the ETs?

All the parts lists i could find only show 1.

Is it likely that there is something holding it back?
@jimc avatar
UTC

Moderaptor
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
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Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
 
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@jimc avatar
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
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Posts: 43711
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
UTC quote
You'll have to build up the bit of the lever that pushes against the piston. 'Liquid Steel' or Q-Bond could help here.
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