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Hi guys,

I have recently sold my Bandit 12 to become part of the scooter scene.
Yesterday I picked up a PX200E with a Pinasco 213 barrel and piston (seals and bearings done at the same time), 55mm Mazzuchelli crank, Halogen headlight conversion and a Sterling pipe.
It has been about a year since the rebuild.

I had a giggle on it today although I did have clutch issues and it seems the brass pressure plunger has worn through, probably due to an over tightened clutch cable so I have that to sort out first. That happened today on my first 10 mile run. But never mind

I only got about 55 out of it today, and although I am not moaning, I would be happier if I could hit the 70mph mark so that 50/55 would not be so straining.
I dont know why it is going slower than expected although the crank is a 55mm instead of a 60mm which is recommended with the Pinasco 213 kit. Could this affect it at all?

Anyway, here is a pic of the new toy

Cheers!

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that looks really nice. very clean and simple looking.
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tidy
nice ....... ive got a sterling righty on me t5 ... sounds well nice ... got a lefty on me slowwww t5 rebuild too
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Nice one !
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that is a nice looking bike..

is it Spanish...the location of the choke and no autolube hole makes it unlikely to be a UK bike...not that thats a problem..

you'll have a 57mm crank in there..which is standard stroke..
not a problem either...it should still go ok ..more than 55

you will have to take a look at the clutch..

if you have the cosa type clutch it will be held on with a standard type nut,
which can be removed with a socket,
you will see when you remove the pressure plate..

if its the castle type nut you will need the clutch tool...these are a bad design
hard to remove..but you may be lucky

I've got a pinasco 213 and I've been using a genuine cosa type clutch for years ,standard springs and plates, can't fault it

I've found a haynes manual to be a real help...but I suppose its all on the internet now..

anyway it could just be the brass bush worn out..which would be an easy fix..
good luck
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gnasher wrote:
that is a nice looking bike..

is it Spanish...the location of the choke and no autolube hole makes it unlikely to be a UK bike...not that thats a problem..

you'll have a 57mm crank in there..which is standard stroke..
not a problem either...it should still go ok ..more than 55

you will have to take a look at the clutch..

if you have the cosa type clutch it will be held on with a standard type nut,
which can be removed with a socket,
you will see when you remove the pressure plate..

if its the castle type nut you will need the clutch tool...these are a bad design
hard to remove..but you may be lucky

I've got a pinasco 213 and I've been using a genuine cosa type clutch for years ,standard springs and plates, can't fault it

I've found a haynes manual to be a real help...but I suppose its all on the internet now..

anyway it could just be the brass bush worn out..which would be an easy fix..
good luck
It is a Spanish bike yes
And yes, it is indeed a 57mm crank. That will be not paying attention then
I have had the clutch plate off today and there is a castle nut so it is a standard clutch unit.
As you rate the cosa clutch assy, I am going to order one tomorrow and get a std set of springs and plates so the missus can ride it too.
On the last ride, the clutch was heavier than my old Barnett clutch springs in the Bandit 12! I can feel it in my arm now.
The brass is worn down, and the pressure plate has very heavy swirling and wear also so this could well be the problem. I guess it will restrict the effective movement of the piston so would cause the drag etc so it is good to hear you confirm this.
I wonder why it is a little sluggish, perhaps a carb rebuild and fuel filter change/clean may sort it out.
Is there timing that can be advanced with the CDI model?

Quite enjoyed working on it today, seems I only need about 10 tools in total to remove and fix everything, well, that's 1% of my toolkit used then!

I'll look on ebaY for a Haynes. Defo worth having.

As you say though, it should do more than 55, and I would like it to. Time to start troubleshooting. It almost feels flat in a way, and there is no real powerband that I am used to from 2-strokes. This probably indicates an issue, but dont know what to compare it to as this is the first Vespa I have ridden.


Right, time to scrub up and flick the TV on for the F1 highlights. (yawn)

Cheers for the info
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you must try to ensure that you get a genuine cosa clutch..there are copies that just don't work..

a lot of people don't rate the Cosa type for tuned engines..but as I say mine has been brilliant

Pinasco kits arent revy anyway..

your timing should be near to the IT mark ..which is 18 degrees
but if it has been built right..it should be near that anyway

I think with a decent clutch your top speed should be better,
maybe near to the Bandit in first gear

an impact driver maybe a good idea with the castle nut...and make sure you release the tab off the washer underneath..

theres not a lot of room in there..and if the nut gets damaged its a bitch to get off...I've had to drill one out before...which is not good..

keep us posted
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[quote="gnasher"]you must try to ensure that you get a genuine cosa clutch..there are copies that just don't work..

a lot of people don't rate the Cosa type for tuned engines..but as I say mine has been brilliant [quote]


+ on the get a genuine one... I had two that were shit copies, and couldn't deal with HP for shit... Popped the ring in seconds, and fell apart... both of 'em... 3rd one I got (a Newfren banded version) was totall bunk too... the basket was machined too short... simply woudn't work no matter what... total drag and waste of bread... went with cnc baskets instead.

I must say though, that my good old trust banded 7spring Never failed me, it's just too damn touchy (no ease out... On or Off) and hard on the fingers.
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Bleah...as I say mine has been fine..

but I did buy it mid 90s..not sure about todays clutches

and wouldnt want yours going wrong..

I've just looked at the " SIP scootershop" website..

they do a Cosa clutch with a band welded around it and extra welding on the rivets..

these are £125...about £25 more than standard..but worth it

I've ordered a fair amount of stuff from SIP...postage is a flat rate of 5 euros
and its usually here within a week..

youll need a few other bits..but they will have it, just got to search the website a bit

Readspeed are good if you want to buy in the UK..and he will give you some advice
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oh..thanks Vader..
that was a Newfren banded at SIP

can only go by my own experience..and the genuine Cosa has been great..

its a minefield now with scooter parts..

think Readspeed may be a good bet for advice..
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If this is the one you're talking about, don't buy it... mine was machined too short... and read the whole paragraph in Red... That's new... that whole "disclaimer" wasn't on there when I bought mine... people must have complained enough.. read about the "Lax maufacturing tolerences" I don't really want to waste any more money on anything with "Lax manufacturing tolerences". I wouldn't suspect anyone would.

oops forgot the link:

http://www.sip-scootershop.com/EN/Products/Clutch+COSA+for+Vespa+PXT5_93041000

ah crap, you replied while I was surfing and typing... yeah that's it... the minefield is a good analogy.
Cheers Gnasher

and back to the OP... that's a great, sharp looking bike... I too would like one. I hope you enjoy it.
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Bleah wrote:
it should do more than 55, and I would like it to. It almost feels flat in a way, and there is no real powerband that I am used to from 2-strokes.
They do feel 'flat' compared to later 2-stroke designs, very linear power delivery, certainly no power band. Still, should wind up beyond 55mph though - I'd be checking the exhaust, could be coked up. Try to borrow a known clean unit, fit that and see how it goes. If it improves buy a newbie as cleaning them out is almost impossible though you'll have no end of suggestions as to how to do it. You'd be amazed at the stuff people pour into them claiming it dissolves and removes carbon.
Have fun fiddling
Shame you had to sell the Bandit
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What year is your bike? Mine seems to he the same, with the choke and no autolube, but in white.
gnasher wrote:
your timing should be near to the IT mark ..which is 18 degrees
but if it has been built right..it should be near that anyway
Shouldn't it be closer to the A mark? I thought the IT mark was for the 125's.

I just went through this with timing my PX200E and the Chilton says to set the timing mark to A, but my top end is stock so I do not know if thta makes a diference.
Hope this does not cause any confusion.
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lovely bike, wouldn't mid one of those myself!
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red is never death, and ur red is surely does nice mate
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Right, I have ordered the following from Beedspeed

Standard clutch plates and steels
New Castle Nut and washer
Castle Nut tool
Clutch lockup tool
Clutch compression tool
Brass piston and pressure plate with clip
Standard clutch springs
Full cable kit (inner and outer)
New speedo cable
New cable adjusters
SAE 30 oil

I was going to go for the cosa assy but I cant find a guaranteed genuine one so I am going to stick with a stock clutch setup for now. To be honest, its no powerhouse at the moment so unless I get port matching etc this is all I should need for now.
If I was going to port match etc, I would have to split the case? If that is so then I would go for the 60mm crank and tune the pants off of it, but something tells me that it will still be slow......

All I want is 70ish

And a clutch that the missus can use.
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rodri9o wrote:
What year is your bike? Mine seems to he the same, with the choke and no autolube, but in white.
Its an '87 on the log book
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gnasher wrote:
I think with a decent clutch your top speed should be better,
maybe near to the Bandit in first gear
That would be good, to be honest I know why I sold the Bandit - I rode it like an idiot and the purchase of a scooter was to "suppress" my riding.

I would like to know what I could build in my spare time to make a reasonably fast lump. Perhaps I will start another thread filled with ideas that will eventually come together in a lump of 2-stroke goodness.....
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rodri9o wrote:
What year is your bike? Mine seems to he the same, with the choke and no autolube, but in white.
gnasher wrote:
your timing should be near to the IT mark ..which is 18 degrees
but if it has been built right..it should be near that anyway
Shouldn't it be closer to the A mark? I thought the IT mark was for the 125's.

I just went through this with timing my PX200E and the Chilton says to set the timing mark to A, but my top end is stock so I do not know if thta makes a diference.
Hope this does not cause any confusion.
I dont know. It would be good to find out, then I can time it up as it should be. It does feel flat, but dont want to start advancing the ignition without knowing if this is where it runs best.

Hmmm.... where to find out....
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[quote="Bleah"]
rodri9o wrote:
I dont know. It would be good to find out, then I can time it up as it should be. It does feel flat, but dont want to start advancing the ignition without knowing if this is where it runs best.

Hmmm.... where to find out....
Check here: http://www.scooterhelp.com/tips/timing/electric.timing.html

Mine is a '92. Should be 23degrees and when you pull the stator you will see the A and IT marks on the casting. Line up the stator to the A, then put the flywheel cover back on, and shoot it with a light...there is an A and IT mark on the flywheel cover and a pin on one of the fanblades of the flywheel to ensure the timing is correct.

PS: I also have that flat spot and have been trying to figure out what the hell is contributing to it. Going over 50mph (80 kph) is quite the task, but I have been eliminating:

-yesterday I installed a new stock exhaust and re-set the timing back to 23 degrees...it was very close to the IT mark (which is for the PX125). also replaced the crank seal behind the stator plate since there was a drip of oil back there. Also tightened the exhaust sleeve as it was very easy to unscrew and that can't help things.

-Next step is to get a carb re-build kit and re;build the carb and clean out everything, clean the tank and fuel tap.
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I said nearer to the IT mark because it has a tuned cylinder..

if you keep it at 23 degrees you are taking a risk of holing a piston..
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Thanks for the timing tips guys. I will check out where its at after I have done the cables and clutch tomorrow.
I have started prepping the scooter for tomorrows work
Removed all cable ends ready for replacement. Both of the gear cable outers were broken which will explain the tough shifting, and the clutch outer was also split and all inners were frayed. The brake lever had a fracture in it so this is going to be replaced too.
The rear wheel is off and the clutch plate removed with the tab washer bent back ready to use the tool coming tomorrow for the nut. Impact wrench on charge

Hopefully by tomorrow, I will have fresh oil, a new clutch, new cables, a new rear mudflap (just because) , and all ready to ride - apart from the front brake - Grrrr.

Still, theres always Wednesday...
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gnasher wrote:
I said nearer to the IT mark because it has a tuned cylinder..
if you keep it at 23 degrees you are taking a risk of holing a piston..
Ah, Ok. I have a stock set up so mine's at A. I have little familiarity with aftermarket/tunes stuff.




Bleah,
You're moving right along, aren't you? Hope everything goes on well...take lots of pictures
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thats it rod the A mark is fine for standard...
or should be..seems like a lot of newer px200s left the factory with the timing set nearer to the IT mark..
whether that is because of unleaded fuel I dont know..

as for the Pinasco kit...there isnt a lot of porting you can do to the case..
it only uses one port on the case..and it matches up pretty well..

the heads on the 213s are machined a bit weird..I changed mine to MMW one from SIP...and this made a big difference...it surprised me,
only thing was it was about £ 80 odd quid..plus I needed a piston because mine had cracked..another £100..

mine runs a 60mil crank too..

the Pinasco will never be a rocketship ..but they are reliable...or should be

see how it goes with the clutch work..
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gnasher wrote:
thats it rod the A mark is fine for standard...
or should be..seems like a lot of newer px200s left the factory with the timing set nearer to the IT mark...
emissions, USA, and gas quality I was told.

I'm still toying with it though.

Sorry to off topic hear Bleah I'll stop it here.
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Nothing to worry about OT, its all good banter

My delivery is coming today, but at 5-6pm so that means I have nothing to do other than to clean and strip some other bits and bobs.

One thing I did notice last night is that the roller for the gear selector was half on and half off the disc. I took the roller arm out and introduced it to my hammer, then popped it back in. Sweet as a nut.

I also re-torqued the head down as the bolts were only at about 10 lb/ft.

Exhaust is off, and soaking in a tub of caustic soda, wasnt that badly gummed to be honest but might as well.

Ummmm....... what else.......

I am going to strip the controls, brake pedal, fuel tank and if I have time pop the engine off so I can give everything a good cleanup and re-grease etc.

Well, best get on it then.

Selector housing all cleaned up.
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Selector de-greased and literally hammered in to shape.
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Why dont my controls work?
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Crusty and chewy gear cables.
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Theres a carb in there somewhere.....?
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Oil out, nice carpet
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There's a lot of misinformation in this thread. Like someone else said. Stay close to the IT mark when setting the timing. IT is 18 degrees and A is 23 degrees (stock px200 cylinder).

The Px200's came out of factory with the stator set to 18 degrees. It's meant to stay that way for the break in, and then at the first service at your dealer, it is set at the correct "A" position.

A Pinasco 213 with a JL pipe like that gives you a a pretty nice and moderately tuned bike. Once set up right is will be just as reliable as a stock bike. Piston rings might not last 20-30000 kms like on a stock bike and you might have to repack the silencer after a while but that's about it.

I'd concentrate on getting this to work properly before you start adding anny more tuning bits. A pinasco 213 with a pipe like that should be able to hit about 110-115 km/h, perhaps more in full tuck. The setup should also give you about 14-15hp @ the wheel compared to 9hp (12@ the crank) on a stock bike. In other words, you shouldn't have any problems cruising at 100km/h even up hill.

Only beeing able to do 55mph indicates that something is wrong, and unless your clutch is slipping, it is not the reason it is slow. 55mph is about what you'd expect out of a stock 9hp px200.

An expansion chamber like that needs to be very clogged up to slow you down that much as well.

Your carb looks very dirty. What does your air filter look like, and what jets are you using? Perhaps the previous own never got it set up right and just went with super rich jetting to be on the safe side.

The tricky thing with the pinasco is that they come with a (nearly) useless head. Some people manage to make it work, but with an expansion chamber you might want to look into getting a head with the proper dimensions. When the expansion chamber is working at its optimum its building up a lot of pressure and heat in the combustion chamber, and so the dimensions of the head becomes more critical.

Look for one with squish height less than 1.6-1.7mm and compression around 10:1. Worb5 makes some aftermarket heads for the pinasco.

If you want to tune this bike a little more a long stroke crank would be perfect with a Pinasco and a proper head. With a little porting you'll end up with around 18hp @ the wheel which is more than a GTS 300 (which we all agree is a nice fast bike).
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Sterling, not JL..
Sorry.. I see you have a Sterling and not a JL pipe. I don't know the RH Sterlings that well.
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Magg wrote:
Your carb looks very dirty. What does your air filter look like, and what jets are you using? Perhaps the previous own never got it set up right and just went with super rich jetting to be on the safe side.
Hi Magg, thanks for the info

The carb is now clean, and the filter is also clean. There was only a 5mm hole in the air filter so I followed the instructions for the pinasco and drilled the 7mm and 5mm holes respectively.

The jets are out and are clean.
The air corrector jet is a 160, and the emulsion tube has BE3 on it. The main jet is quite badly scored around the edge and I cant read the number on it

The idle jet is 50. 160

I have no idea if this is where they should be around, but the spark looks a little on the dark side, but still brown.
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Magg wrote:
Look for one with squish height less than 1.6-1.7mm and compression around 10:1. Worb5 makes some aftermarket heads for the pinasco.
All I can find is this one which with a 57mm crank will have a squish height of 2.1mm. This kit is intended for the Pinasco 215 but #I have the 213 fitted. I wonder if this will make a difference?

http://www.sip-scootershop.com/EN/Products/cylinder+head+mmw+px200+for_13013965
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@magg avatar
Vespa GL Touring 180, Vespa GL 225, Vespa PX 200 Sahara Edition
Joined: UTC
Posts: 614
Location: Norway
UTC quote
215 or 213, thats the same thing. Actually the displacement i 213cc with a bore of 69mm.

I think a squish height of 2.1mm is a little too much, but I guess if you mill the head a little it should be fine.

Good thing you drilled the air filter. That should clear things up.

At sea level a 50/160 idle is a little lean. How many turns on the idle mix screw? I'd prefer a 55/160 or maybe even a 52/140.

The main jet stack,160 air corrector and BE3 atomizer is the stock setup. If it works and your plug looks ok in the mid range then good for you! However, you are running an expansion chamber and you will probably need to adjust other bits of the carb than just the main jet.

The BE3 meters the fuel flow around the middle-top half of the throttle position. BE2, BE4, BE5 and BE6 all meter the fuel differently. Almost like needles with different tapers. BE2 is generally richer than BE3 and BE4 is generally leaner. Some of these deliver more fuel later, some deliver lots of fuel early.

The air corrector adjusts how high up into the main jet stack the fuel sits. A smaller air corrector lets more fuel flow higher up in the main jet stack and enrichens the mixture. A larger AC will make the main jet coming into effect later.

The reason I'm saying all this is that you might end up having to play with the atomizer and AC to get the motor to rev up nice and clean without any flat spots.

The main jet should be around 128-130.

As I said, I don't know what the Sterling pipe is like, but the combination of a high revving pipe and a not so high revving kit might not be ideal.
UTC

Hooked
cosa, rally, T5, italjet F125, Lambretta, plus junk
Joined: UTC
Posts: 306
Location: oxford
 
Hooked
cosa, rally, T5, italjet F125, Lambretta, plus junk
Joined: UTC
Posts: 306
Location: oxford
UTC quote
those Pinasco kits have been around since the early 80s...
it could be the best part of 30 years old

check its condition before buying a head for it...
mine had the early Vertex piston..which cracked badly

I bought the MMW head though..and it made a big difference..
OP
@bleah avatar
UTC

Member
PX200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22
Location: Berkshire, UK.
 
Member
@bleah avatar
PX200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22
Location: Berkshire, UK.
UTC quote
Magg wrote:
I think a squish height of 2.1mm is a little too much, but I guess if you mill the head a little it should be fine.
I will order the new head at the end of the month and get milling the squish pads a tad. Sounds like a plan!
Magg wrote:
Good thing you drilled the air filter. That should clear things up.
It certainly seems to run much better. I just went out on a 30 min jolly and it pulled 60mph and held it quite nicely. The only thing I have done to the engine and carb was to re-torque the head and drill the filter. 10mph improvement? Excellent! This proves that it is is running rich at full throttle so the main is indeed too large perhaps. I will buy a selection and alter based on the plug color.
Magg wrote:
The main jet stack,160 air corrector and BE3 atomizer is the stock setup. If it works and your plug looks ok in the mid range then good for you!
The mixture screw is about 1 3/4 out and idles perfectly. Nice and strong and stable.
Magg wrote:
The main jet should be around 128-130.
More bits to order

I will start with the 130, and check the plug after a while, then adjust accordingly.
gnasher wrote:
those Pinasco kits have been around since the early 80s...
it could be the best part of 30 years old

check its condition before buying a head for it...
mine had the early Vertex piston..which cracked badly

I bought the MMW head though..and it made a big difference..
The piston has only one ring so this could be an early version - although it looks to be in good condition and the barrel is not scored. I whipped the barrel off earlier as most of the bike was in bits - so why not

Well, the cables are all replaced, apart from the choke cable which seems ok, and the front brake cable needs doing but ran out of time.
The clutch plates beedspeed sent through were wrong and had only 6 tabs on then and the steels were a different fitment also. Anyone know what these are for?
My clutch has 8 smaller tabs on the plates so the new ones need sending back.
On a good note though, the plates are all within tolerance and the steels are not burnt so I did manage to re-use them.

The clutch with the standard springs is light and easy to use. This combined with the new gearbox oil makes for a nice easy shift. The missus should be ok with this setup now so I am happy.

When I was taking the clutch off, I could not see where the woodruf key was positioned, so I followed a guide on one of the boards, and aligned the notch to 11 O'clock. This actually made the key point straight down when I took the clutch off!! Luckily the key stayed where it was due to the stiction from the oil. CLOSE OR WHAT!!??!!

Like I said though, it is running ok for now, just need that extra 10mph which is probably down to jetting. I set the timing close to the IT mark, about 2 degrees off and there was no pinking at all on my run earlier. Perhaps I will fettle with the timing after the new head is fitted.

Anyway, its all in one peice, all working for now, and I enjoyed my run!
⚠️ Last edited by Bleah on UTC; edited 1 time
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@bleah avatar
UTC

Member
PX200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22
Location: Berkshire, UK.
 
Member
@bleah avatar
PX200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22
Location: Berkshire, UK.
UTC quote
I forgot to add....

The chap I bought the scooter from said the Pinasco kit was fitted about 10 months ago, but I do not know if it was a new kit, or a previously used one
I seem to remember he said it was an earlier one called the 213 as opposed to the new kit referred to as a 215 if that means anything?
OP
@bleah avatar
UTC

Member
PX200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22
Location: Berkshire, UK.
 
Member
@bleah avatar
PX200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22
Location: Berkshire, UK.
UTC quote
It looks like the clutch plates and steels are for a 50cc as these seem to be the only ones with 6 tabs.
Ill be sending them back then

A few other issues too, the brake cable they have sent does not have the threaded part on the end, just a bare cable, and the clutch cable did not have a large enough head by the lever.
I have put washers in the top of the clutch cable to make it useable without passing through the cable stay, but the brake cable cant be used so again I will return this back to them ans get the right bits sent through.

Oh, any my mudflap will arrive tomorrow too Clown emoticon
@travisnj avatar
UTC

Primasarah
1979 P200E, 1977 Rally 200, 1974 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3087
Location: Lake Worth, FL
 
Primasarah
@travisnj avatar
1979 P200E, 1977 Rally 200, 1974 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3087
Location: Lake Worth, FL
UTC quote
If its a 1 ring pinasco, its gotta be a bit old. The Pinascos sold in the last few years have 2 rings.
@joshzingzing avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
px200 cutdown,px180,px150. Puch SR. Puch scooterette
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5109
Location: west aus
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@joshzingzing avatar
px200 cutdown,px180,px150. Puch SR. Puch scooterette
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5109
Location: west aus
UTC quote
Bleah wrote:
It looks like the clutch plates and steels are for a 50cc as these seem to be the only ones with 6 tabs.
Ill be sending them back then

A few other issues too, the brake cable they have sent does not have the threaded part on the end, just a bare cable, and the clutch cable did not have a large enough head by the lever.
I have put washers in the top of the clutch cable to make it useable without passing through the cable stay, but the brake cable cant be used so again I will return this back to them ans get the right bits sent through.

Oh, any my mudflap will arrive tomorrow too Clown emoticon
ask for the arcobaleno or easy adjust front cable with a plastic sleeve inside the outer


and cool bike

the seat is interesting
UTC

Hooked
cosa, rally, T5, italjet F125, Lambretta, plus junk
Joined: UTC
Posts: 306
Location: oxford
 
Hooked
cosa, rally, T5, italjet F125, Lambretta, plus junk
Joined: UTC
Posts: 306
Location: oxford
UTC quote
I bought my Pinasco kit in 1988....
mine had the 2 ring Vertex piston..
the single ring piston was before that,,,
it was changed because of problems with it seizing on long runs ( thats what I heard?)

could be changed to the new polini type piston at about £100..
or just ridden and see what happens..
if the barrels OK it cant of had problems ??
OP
@bleah avatar
UTC

Member
PX200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22
Location: Berkshire, UK.
 
Member
@bleah avatar
PX200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 22
Location: Berkshire, UK.
UTC quote
gnasher wrote:
I bought my Pinasco kit in 1988....
I was 10 years old when you bought that..... Razz emoticon
UTC

Hooked
cosa, rally, T5, italjet F125, Lambretta, plus junk
Joined: UTC
Posts: 306
Location: oxford
 
Hooked
cosa, rally, T5, italjet F125, Lambretta, plus junk
Joined: UTC
Posts: 306
Location: oxford
UTC quote
ahum...so was I..saved up my pocket money
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